Ian's Tennessee Honey '64 Short Box Step-side - England

[65sub]

Nice job on the trailing arms Ian

[ibrown50]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Ian,

Very timely as I am about to commence the same operation on my trailing arms.

Quick question, what gauge did you use for your strengthening plates, difficult to see from the pictures.

P.

I used 1/8" (but 3mm would be fine) it worked a treat for the plug welds, any thinner wouldn't have worked, any thicker and I'd still be drilling holes

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Richmond sometimes has some odd numbers, just a bit off. You calculated correctly. I would assume that is supposed to be a 3.42 (or close enuff) posi.

Thanks Bill thats what I thought too, however it appears you were right Richmond has some odd numbers

Originally Posted by Grizz1963

Good looking compressor Ian.

Progress as you say, is progress..

It is indeed and you are making great progress at the minute

Originally Posted by Johnny_Lamebridge

Ian, have a look here:

http://www.richmondgear.com/partsearch/search.php

It appears that you have a 4.10 ratio. Lucky you!

Thanks Johnny 4:10's and a posi ..... drive it like you've stolen it

Originally Posted by 65sub

Nice job on the trailing arms Ian

Thanks Dale, really appreciated. But still very simple stuff compared to your build

[Paul Y]

Thanks Ian!

Looks like a steel run is in order.

P.

[ibrown50]

Not done an update for a while, so here we go. I've been working on the rear suspension, it's a 5" static drop using POL components.

The after all the strengthening the trailing arms have had they were finished off with new poly-bushes, so easy to fit a 9 year old can do it (and here is one demonstrating this )





Got the axle cleaned and painted, put fresh oil in and a new gasket, all good to go.

[ibrown50]

Springs are -4" with matching nitrogen shocks and new spring cups





Plus 1" lowering blocks and new U-bolts.



I also used the POL shock relocation kit which corrects the shock absorber angle on lowered trucks. The space between the upper brackets was less than the shocks, which although easy enough to tweak is not great given everything came from the same place.





That said this is the first problem I've had with anything from POL and I remain a big fan of POL if you are working on a budget.

[Grizz1963]

Even a 9 year old can do it.

Nice.

[ibrown50]

The axle in my truck is 4:10 posi unfortunately it is also from a 65 (panhard bracket on the diff), my truck is a 64 (panhard bracket on the axle), this means if I use a 64 panhard bar it is too long and if I use a 65 the chassis bracket in the wrong place





The PO had not let mere technicalities like this get in the way and had simply bent a 65 bar until it lined up. I am hoping to come up with better solution



I am toying with the idea of leaving the bar full length and fabricating a bracket to sit on the outside edge of the chassis rail, the plus is it will give me the longest bar possible, the minus is it will be difficult to make it look good. I am undecided, so, while I am mulling this over I thought I would turn my attention to a bit of stripping down ready for a couple of rust repairs I need to do.

First up I removed the passenger door upon removing the check strap and found this absolute masterpiece of engineering.

A check strap made from a 3/16" spanner and 3/8" hex wrench.





It made me smile, I will definately keep it........but not on the truck

[ibrown50]

On with the strip down. The good news is there is very little rust,







The bad news is the truck has clearly been strafed down the passenger side and has been repaired using tons of filler,
I chipped this out of the cab corner, it would have been so easy to knock out there's really no excuse for using this much "bodge".



I normally have panels media blasted before paint, however, I have recently bought this paint stripper,



If paint stripper could be "weaponised" this would be it. It's clearly no good for the environment, dolphins (or people come to that) but it's also not good for paint, one coat had the fender down to bare metal.



I'll strip the fender and door and decide where to go from there, but I suspect there will be a replacement door in my future somewhere.

[Grizz1963]

Progress is progress Ian, even the direction you are headed in right now.

I really think a box frame with that lump of filler and the door check mounted in there would be a great bit of history for the study.

I have the pan hard rod I removed from my truck, the bushes are shagged, but could one move them from your new unit after cleaning and painting my old one??

If so, you are welcome to it.

[mjh1965]

it looks like some people think it's easier to fill a dent than knock it out . Yours must have gone to the same body shop as Paul y's . Glad you didn't find to much rust .

[Johnny_Lamebridge]

Ian, re your Panhard Bar...

I had the same situation in my truck. Here's what I did, starting at post #87... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=642296&page=4

I suppose bending the bar would work too.

[lumpy63]

Hey Ian I have really enjoyed reading your thread, as a youngster i spent many summers in northern England as my parents are from Yorkshire. My current project is a 66 c10 long bed to short bed conversion , ill post some pics as soon as I figure it out "definitely not technically inclined" turns out were both vintage 1963 cheers for now Colin

[65sub]

Rust free is definitely nice. Even stripping paint and digging out bondo is progress.

[ibrown50]

Originally Posted by Grizz1963

Progress is progress Ian, even the direction you are headed in right now.

I really think a box frame with that lump of filler and the door check mounted in there would be a great bit of history for the study.

I have the pan hard rod I removed from my truck, the bushes are shagged, but could one move them from your new unit after cleaning and painting my old one??

If so, you are welcome to it.

Thanks Rian, I'll definately keep the check link, I think the filler got swept up, but I'm sure to find another lump . Thanks for the offer with the panhard bar, I'll let you know

Originally Posted by mjh1965

it looks like some people think it's easier to fill a dent than knock it out . Yours must have gone to the same body shop as Paul y's . Glad you didn't find to much rust .

Looking at Paul's thread I'm glad too

Originally Posted by Johnny_Lamebridge

Ian, re your Panhard Bar...

I had the same situation in my truck. Here's what I did, starting at post #87... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=642296&page=4

I suppose bending the bar would work too.

Thanks Johnny, I remember reading this, it's a great solution and executed to your usual high standard.

Originally Posted by lumpy63

Hey Ian I have really enjoyed reading your thread, as a youngster i spent many summers in northern England as my parents are from Yorkshire. My current project is a 66 c10 long bed to short bed conversion , ill post some pics as soon as I figure it out "definitely not technically inclined" turns out were both vintage 1963 cheers for now Colin

Hi Colin, it's a really small world, I spend one or two days every week in York City (it's beatiful) look forward to the pictures of your truck

Originally Posted by 65sub

Rust free is definitely nice. Even stripping paint and digging out bondo is progress.

I agree Dale, and I don't mind digging out bondo if I find decent metal underneath

[Paul Y]

Looking good Ian.

P.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by ibrown50

On with the strip down. The good news is there is very little rust,

Attachment 1521535

Attachment 1521536



The bad news is the truck has clearly been strafed down the passenger side and has been repaired using tons of filler,
I chipped this out of the cab corner, it would have been so easy to knock out there's really no excuse for using this much "bodge".

Attachment 1521537

I normally have panels media blasted before paint, however, I have recently bought this paint stripper,

Attachment 1521538

If paint stripper could be "weaponised" this would be it. It's clearly no good for the environment, dolphins (or people come to that) but it's also not good for paint, one coat had the fender down to bare metal.

Attachment 1521539

I'll strip the fender and door and decide where to go from there, but I suspect there will be a replacement door in my future somewhere.

I will try to get my "new" door out this weekend and see if I can get a neighbour around to help me hang it for fit.........
If it fits, I need to strip my red door down As I have given the quarter window to Martin as well, and then we need to get the red door plus Ta2Don's door cutout repair panel and your pallet trolley that is still stored here under the "shed" caravan up to you. So your truck seems to be turning into a Frankenstein like Pauls with bits from Arkansas, Kent etc

They are both quite bulky pieces so a visit and BBQ may be in order. I am sure Martin and Paul would be game for some burnt offerings. (Meat..... That is)

Will let you know if it all works out.

[ibrown50]

I finished stripping the passenger side fender which revealed a large (thick) patch of bondo.......I just had to know what was behind it.





Using my favourite method of propane torch and scraper (if you try this, wear a mask, if the filler catches fire the fumes are terrible) I removed the bondo



What was behind it was a really ugly, snot welded patch, which pretty much sat on top of the panel.......I had to know what was behind it



Using a thin cutting wheel, as carefully as I could, I cut the welds around the patch, which revealed pretty much the same rot hole as most other fender get.

At this point I would normally buy a new fender but having seen how poor some replacement fenders are I'll reserve my decision until I've removed the bondo from the front

[mjh1965]

Now is the time to ask yourself repair or repo ?

[[JP]]

Interesting there on the panhard bracket location...didnt even see that when I done mine not long ago.
the previous owner, just welded an extension on the panhard rod. thought about buying an adjustable panhard rod, but dont really need to spend that money right now. so just left it.
did put polly bushes on the panhard rod and control arms seeing as I had the rear axle out.

I got a rebuilt posi axle on mine, I have no lowering blocks and not a clue how short my rear springs are. do you know how long your rear springs are?

[ibrown50]

Originally Posted by [JP]

Interesting there on the panhard bracket location...didnt even see that when I done mine not long ago.
the previous owner, just welded an extension on the panhard rod. thought about buying an adjustable panhard rod, but dont really need to spend that money right now. so just left it.
did put polly bushes on the panhard rod and control arms seeing as I had the rear axle out.

I got a rebuilt posi axle on mine, I have no lowering blocks and not a clue how short my rear springs are. do you know how long your rear springs are?

JP
The springs are fitted so there is a small amount of load on them but as they sit fitted they are 9" high (they are 4" drop from POL)

[[JP]]

cheers!
going to check what mine are, so I have an idea of what they are in relation to standard. just for future reference

[Paul Y]

Ian,

How tall are your front springs?

P.

[ibrown50]

Paul,
New springs are 2" drop POL and measure 10 1/2", old springs are 12 1/2"

[ibrown50]

Finished digging the bondo out of the front fender today,



Looks like the fender has had some damage which has been repaired using the "drill holes and slide hammer method", I can understand doing this on closed panels and box sections (although it's not something I would do) but on a fender where you can get a hammer or dolly up the back





There's a crease in the lower fender and a couple of rust holes too, there's a good days work or more, sorting this one, I'll pull the other side and decide whether I'm buying fenders too.

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by ibrown50

Paul,
New springs are 2" drop POL and measure 10 1/2", old springs are 12 1/2"

Attachment 1523123

Thanks Ian,

Could you measure the coil thickness?

My springs are also 10.5 but have had a lump cut off the bottom. Need to,increase my ride height but 1/2" but dont know what to buy to make the difference.

Maybe yours are thicker and that makes the difference. Make sense?

P.