1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[rusty76]

Thanks for the info.

[Super_Dave]

Go a lot done. Forgot to take photos today. I will be heading back next week, and will try to take more then.

The cab is stripped and prepped for primer.

The doors had all the trim holes welded up, ground, primed and sanded.

The rockers and toe kicks arrived from Top Banana. I am a tad pissed, as I asked specifically if the floor repair parts I was looking at would cover the first inch and a half of the floor from the rocker. I was told it would "cover 2-2.5" of the floor." So, I ordered one for both sides. . . surprise! it only covers about 3/4" to 7/8" of the floor! So, it was yet another Top Banana Delay as we had to order the larger floor repair panels, from Classic Industries this time. So, no rocker repair this week. I am officially done with Top Banana Peel.

We got the AMD Bumper from Summit (who, by the way, does not sell the bolts to attach said bumper. . . go figure) and attached it with half of the stainless bolts I had to buy from ACE Hardware.

We mocked up the 25 gallon Blazer gas tank one last time. It looks like we will be able to do the hidden gas cap behind the license plate after all. So, we cut the neck off the tank and loaded both parts into my Silverado for the 90 mile trip home.

My buddy, Erick, will reattach the neck to the radius on the edge of the tank. We will raise the tank up to within 1.5" of the frame, where we will drill into the frame and run the tank straps from side to side.

We will notch the bottom of the cross brace for the neck to clear, then run the rubber gas supply hose from the neck, to the hidden pop-up gas cap behind the license plate. I am real pleased with how little the gas tank will be visible from behind. Once we paint it with the new Eastwood Invisible Paint, you will never see the inch and a half that shows below the frame.

I have a set of 1990 Chevy OEM Electric Mirrors coming from New Mexico. They are an excellent blend of the OEM Chrome monsters and a more traditional mirror. I am really stoked to find them. I got the control switch, both pigtails and connectors and about 18 inches of wiring from the switch to splice into the main harness. . . all for $135.

I never knew about these mirrors until I stumbled across an old thread from 2011 with someone selling a couple sets. There wasn't a lot of interest but it was exactly what I was looking for, so I went on a mission to find some and within a week, I had a pair located.

Anyway. . . sorry for the lack of photo-documentation. I will definitely get a lot next week when I head down with the mirrors. I will also get some photos of Erick doing his thing with the electric metal stitcher when he starts necking with my Blazer gas tank.

[Super_Dave]

I got the 1990 electric mirrors today. Had to tighten up some screws and now the bodies are nice and tight.

The drivers glass need to be replaced at some point and I found new glass for $22, so I don't suspect it will be too difficult. The passenger side didn't have the warning though, so the reflection is going to be the same as the normal drivers side.

The passenger side has that warning about objects being closer. The glass is in good shape but the very bottom lip is starting to show some loss of the silver backing, so I hope I can find a new one with the same image characteristics.

The control knob is a simple R-L switch and a joy stick, so I will need to get creative as to the mounting. After we test the wiring, if we find that the joy stick toast, and I can't find any reasonable replacement, the mirrors work really well manually.

[Super_Dave]

I haven't been to the shop in a couple of weeks. I have been busy getting the gas tank neck relocated and the mirrors refurbished before heading down to the shop. . . 90 miles is a bit of a haul just to say 'hi."

From the updates I have received, all the floor and kick panels are replaced and both doors are in primer.

I have received the FatMat sound deadener and will take it down with the gas tank and mirrors.

Here is the gas tank after we relocated the neck to come out behind the license plate. I will hopefully make a trip to the pick-n-pull and find a flip down holder for the license plate this week. I am also hoping the gas tank is welded this week, as that's the last thing that we need to get mounted and dialed in, before painting the frame.

From there, it's prime the cab and run the gas lines. . . then wait for warm enough weather to spray the black paint. . .

[Super_Dave]

While I am waiting on the gas tank to be welded by a buddy. . . I have a huge wiring need where my mirrors are concerned.

Anyone that may be able to help; I have a thread started in the ELECTRICAL Forum here:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...03#post8187603

[Super_Dave]

Gas tank is welded, primed and painted... needs a couple more coats. Hope to make it to the build shop next week if all goes as anticipated.




As for the rest of the build, all the rust panels are out and replacements welded in. Both doors are primed and blocked three times. Now starting on the cab.

Hoping for more updated photos next week. . .

[Super_Dave]

We got a pleasant break in the weather today, so I cajoled the wife into coming with me to the pick-n-pull.

I managed to get a complete set of '96 power mirrors with pigtails and connectors. A plus was that they have manual folding bases!

I got them home and swapped out the door mounts with my '90 Blazer mounts. Super easy; just three torx screws and it's simply one off, one on!


Next step is getting the power mirror harness from Harnessworx (GBody Performance) on this forum and bench test the motors. Keeping fingers crossed that they are all four good to go.


I also picked up a pristine '95 Camaro folding license plate holder. It will be going down to the build shop in a week or so, and be added to the list of mods for the rear gas tank relocation. Anxious to see how close we came with our mock up on the gas tank neck relocation.


After all this, it's pretty much body and paint time. . .

Stay tuned for more up to date build photos after my next trip to the shop. One of the drawbacks to have the shop 90 miles away.

[rusty76]

Sweet deal on the mirrors.

[Super_Dave]

Well, it's been a while since the last post.

The old guys doing the body and paint, had to pull back for a while. The younger one (74) was diagnosed with Prostate Cancer. It took about 6 weeks for the final diagnosis. Since then, it's been radiation 5 days a week for two months. There is about a month to go. During that time, they, understandably, took time away from everything.

About a week ago, they contacted me and said they wanted to get back on the project. It would be good therapy for Larry. So I gave the go-ahead, as long as it doesn't have a negative impact on Larry's treatment and healing process.

I have a wedding to attend in Bellingham, Washington this weekend. When I return, I will be making the 90 mile drive to deliver the modified gas tank, 1990 Blazer Electric Mirrors and a few other parts.

I am at a standstill on rebuilding the wing-window assemblies. I have them disassembled and starting to clean them up. . . but it's a toss-up to spend the time making them right or buying a good set of used assemblies and rebuilding them instead. Something hit the glass frame on the driver side and dented it pretty good. I got it straightened pretty good but the black snap on trim piece was also dented and I can't find any replacement ones. I have a lead on a clean set of wing frame assemblies for a good price, but really need the long door braces, especially for the driver side.

Also have a lead on a full set of rebuilt assemblies including new rubber and felt. . . $250-$300. So, in the interest of time and chasing parts, I might have to pull the trigger. All the rubber and felt for a rebuild is right around $100. Add another $30 for rivets and new springs, washers, etc. Then I would still need the door braces and the driver side black snap-on metal trim piece. . . I could also spend another $60 for the clean set of wing frames black trim, which pencils out at around $200 and still needing the brace.

LMC wants $400 for two wing assemblies without braces. . . and they have been out of stock on one or both for months. So, $250-$300 for a complete set of rebuilt assemblies. . . starts to sound pretty good.

[Super_Dave]

I have wing window assemblies in hand. Another member, Zack Seff, had started a business rebuilding OEM assemblies but, after some "interesting" interactions with other members, rolled up his tent.

That's a crying shame too, because there are precious few out there that can, or will, rehab OEM wing window assemblies for a reasonable price. That leaves people to rehab their own, with questionable results - while complaining about how hard it is and how long it took - or going after-market Chinese, which cost you your left nut for Chinese quality and has all kinds of fitment issues - which also gets complained about.

So why anyone would harangue an American for rehabbing OEM product and charging a VERY reasonable price. . . boggles my mind.

Now: on to my wing window assemblies.

I received them yesterday afternoon. I had received advance photos of the completed assemblies and was very anxious to see them firsthand.

I opened the box and peeled away the ample bubble wrap. I was stunned: Zack's work is nothing short of amazing! These photos DO NOT do them justice.

All the new hardware, frames and door supports are powder-coated to perfection. The rubber is soft and supple and all the rivets looked just like the factory had done them, because he uses the proper equipment to set them.

I can say unabashedly, that these wing window assemblies put the Factory OEM to shame. They are by far, one of the best things that will be on my truck when it's done. It was money well spent and DIDN'T cost an arm and a leg.

THANK YOU ZACK for being willing to do this for my build. If I ever have need again (and it looks like I will) I am calling you, my friend!

[Super_Dave]

The truck now has the rear mounted gas tank installed and gas lines are being run. The filler neck will be coming out the back, behind a Camaro flip down license plate holder on the new OEM bumper.

All the bodywork is done; primed and blocked and ready for black base coat. My friends are out Tuna fishing and we will be looking at sometime mid-August to squirt color and clear.

I started a thread in the Paint section where we thoroughly thrashed the best method to "match" the black on the new parts I purchased, with the black that was going on the cab, doors and fenders.

Since trying to "match" the black would yield questionable results even with the best efforts, the consensus was to scuff the clear coat on the already painted parts I bought, with 800 grit, and lay down a couple coats of black base. Then lay two or three coats of black base on the cab, doors and fenders. Follow that with several coats of clear and buff.

During this discussion, I was referred to SPI products. I called the owner, Barry, and he spent at least 30 minutes politely educating me on the subtle in's and out's of painting and what constitutes a good quality paint verses an expensive paint.

I was initially given the choice between OMNI at $179/gallon and Deltorn at $728/gallon. After talking to Barry, and having a much clearer picture of what constitutes "quality" in making paint, I asked him to give me a recommended shopping list of products to re-coat the whole truck in black base and clear it. Within 10 minutes, Barry had emailed me the list and pricing: $547 for EVERYTHING!

Now, price plays a role, but more importantly, the quality and real-world applications are what sold me. The Pebble Beach Concourse winner used the Black base and clear from SPI. Each month (or as often as they are held), as many as 40-50+ vehicles at the worlds best high-end auctions have used SPI's products. . . many cars that sell well into the six figures.

So, if it's good enough for these people, its good enough for me. Barry has turned the paint world on its head, by supplying superior product at value pricing.

Now, I am REAL excited to get this project on its final leg home to completion, with new paint and clear all around. I will be driving the 90 miles to the shop on Thursday next week, to document the gas tank and get before paint photos and deliver my AMAZING wing window assemblies.

I hope to post several updates a week from now, with photos, that show what all has been done over the past few months.

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https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=768525

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[cal30_sniper]

I love SPI paint. I’ve gone through gallons of their stuff over the last few years. Their Epoxy primers are my go-to for corrosion protection, and the clear they sell is amazing. Good folks to deal with, too.

[blue 72 gmc 4x4]

Thank you for the kind words! Can't wait to see them in your truck!

[cal30_sniper]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

I have wing window assemblies in hand. Another member, Zack Seff, had started a business rebuilding OEM assemblies but, after some "interesting" interactions with other members, rolled up his tent.

Those vent windows look great. I'd love to know where he gets quality rubber from. The 89-91 design has a much improved vent window seal, but when I rebuilt mine, the new rubber I ordered was garbage. I ended up moisturizing and re-using the original seals, because the reproductions just couldn't be made to fit. The rubber he used in yours looks much better than what I had.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by blue 72 gmc 4x4

Thank you for the kind words! Can't wait to see them in your truck!

You have no idea. . . !

I am looking forward to the 90 mile drive on Thursday, to document the progress and deliver the wing windows.

The brothers doing the work took a few months off to deal with prostrate cancer and just got back on the horse a couple weeks ago.

When they get back from their fishing trip, there will be a two week window to base/clear the truck before they leave on a month long hunting trip. While fishing, they are discussing my desire to use SPI Black-Black base and Universal Clear. I really hope the answer is OKAY, let's do it!

I HAVE to have it done and back home by the time they go hunting, so I can got onto the other things, like custom exhaust after relocating the gas tank to the rear, the interior, spray in bed lined, custom CNC badging, etc.

I have a goal to put the truck in the Sherwood Cruise'in in June and the Hillsboro 4th of July parade. . .

[Super_Dave]

Heading down to check out the truck in the morning. I heard back from the guys at the shop and they are good to go with using the SPI product, so I am stoked!

We will be ordering all the materials and supplies in the morning and having it shipped direct to their shop. Should be there Saturday or Monday. Looks like we might be on the final leg to getting it back home for all the interior and other small details and then calling it done. . . for a while.

I will update the progress with photos after we return home.

[Super_Dave]

Well, we made a quick trip south to deliver the wing windows and check out the gas tank install.

The gas tank is in its home. The neck looks like it will be just about right where it's at. The bumper is loosely installed before the bed is bolted down. I think we have maybe another inch of vertical travel if we need it.

My only concern is that the hole in the license plate holder for the pop-up gas cap might be too close to the top of the license plate holder and the pump nozzle might hit the license plate light or top of holder. Before drilling the hole and mounting the pop-up gas cap, we need to have a better idea exactly where the neck is height wise after the bumper is mounter permanently. We can lower the tank an inch if we need to.

[Super_Dave]

We spent a lot of time fighting the wing windows, trying to test fitting them so we could mock up the power mirrors to trace bolt hole locations. Never did get a nice fit on the wing windows after an hour+ of two people working on them.

Too dang hot. Will wait for another trip to spend more time on them. It's really tough having the truck 90 miles away with a 3-4 round trip just to spend a couple hours on the truck. Really makes it hard to troubleshoot problems.

Not sure we are doing it "correctly" and don't have anything to compare to up close. I think we might be pinching the new rubber in one or more places and not getting a good fit on the lower, rounded corner.

I opened the wing and got some more"flex" in the frame that made the fit better, but then I couldn't get the wing to close to save my life . . the pointed top corner would drop down when opened and I would have to push that corner of the glass up and pull the wing in.

Eventually had to pull the assembly out, get the wing to close, latch it, and without opening it, mock up the mirrors - - which ride against the wing frame. . . so getting the fit correct before drilling three new holes in my smooth doors, is really critical. Wish I had a better Idea what I am doing wrong.

I remember a video I watch a year or so ago, where they said that some of the rubber might need to be trimmed. . . don't know if that's part of what I am up against or not. The images show some of the trouble spots and some of the rubber I "think" I might need to trim. . . I just don't really know right now and need to have more time to thrash on them.

If anyone has any insights, please chime in. These wings are really nice and I desperately need to get them in correctly.

[blue 72 gmc 4x4]

It does look like that rubber is a little long. Is it tucking into the door? I know I've had trouble on the 67-72 windows when the rubber folds out like that.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by blue 72 gmc 4x4

It does look like that rubber is a little long. Is it tucking into the door? I know I've had trouble on the 67-72 windows when the rubber folds out like that.

No, I was having issues getting it to go inside the door in several places. . . made me think it was supposed to go on the outside.

In fact, the more we tried to push the wing into the lower corner, the mode the rubber along the bottom would pucker and pull away from the glass/wing frame.

I know I am supposed to expect some issues with new rubber being stiff, but I don't know if this is a "stiff rubber" issue or something I am doing wrong.

I think we will try to seat it again and get the screws installed through the door frame and into the wing frame. . . and see how the rubber looks. Only problem is the 180 mile trip and working it into everyones schedules.

If I need to trim some of the rubber, I need to see a good example of what the rubber is "supposed" to look like all the way around on both sides. I would hate to trim it too short in places.

[Super_Dave]

Well, we have the gas tank installed and lines being run to the engine. Just need to fit the bumper and install the flip-down license plate and attach the pop-up gas cap and run a hose to the filler neck.

[Super_Dave]

The truck is finally getting some color.

The cab, fenders, doors and bed are all painted and assembly has started. With bad weather and hunting season approaching, it will most likely slow down considerably and be Spring before it's finally done and headed back home for upholstery and finishing touches.

[Super_Dave]

UPDATE:

The electrical is all reconnected and the truck runs and drives.

The tilt steering is in.

The wing windows are in but the passenger one doesn't fit well. That door is a reproduction door and is slightly different (code for import crap?). I may have to get a used OEM and repaint it and reinstall all the guts. Hopefully everything is weather tight for the time being and I can cross the replacement door issue in a few months.

The bed has some touch up paint issues that can't be done until warmer weather in the Spring and then will be installed and we can work on fuel tank neck/folding license plate/ hidden pop-up gas cap mod.

The wiring for mirrors is routed into doors, but there are issues with the control switch. It bench tested just fine before delivering to the shop, but now it's not wanting to cooperate. Rather than pay them to wrestle with it, I am ordering some OEM Style black primer mirrors from LMC for the time being, which will cover up all the holes (we left the OEM holes alone, as the '90 Blazer power mirrors would cover them up and we wanted a fall-back option in case they failed or needed more work down the road. . . which they apparently do.)

Rear window and front bumper will be done anytime.

Door glass needs to go in after mirrors are put on because of access to bolts.

Hush Mat and carpet will be installed.

Firewall pad is in and everything back in place.

Need to decide on a custom steering wheel . . . not sure where I will head on that. Any suggestions?

Then it's upholstery and either my OEM or a swapped front seat. Would like a bench with a fold down console that doesn't require a lot of fabrication, but haven't looked around a lot to see what might work. Any input on that front will be appreciated.

More than ready for this build to be done. . . time-wise and financially. Want to have it ready for the June Cruisin' Sherwood. Will be close.

[Dads79GMC]

Looks most excellent!!! Mike

[Super_Dave]

Thanks Mike!

Just need to keep my head down and not look at the time and ignore what's been spent so far. That will be less of an issue once it's back on the road and I am behind the wheel again!