Attempting my first build 72 K5

[jaros44sr]

Very nice work.....

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by drillrod

Check the blazer for sale section. 1rippen6 has some blazer chassis parts for sale.

Thanks Drillrod. I'll check it out. Good to know that the same crossmember on a pick up could work, too.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Those are the original clamps that were on there before. I actually did one smart thing during this rebuild and made sure to keep the clamps.

I had these along with many other bolts and nuts cleaned and zinc plated. Came out nice, right?



[quote=tjsblazer;6851951]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Thanks a lot. I was having a hard time finding coated. They even sell them in a kit form with 3x 2.75 and 1x 3.625. I got my rears from ORD but they don't stock the smaller Dana44 unless you want raw steel.



Did you buy all your line clips from Inline tube as well. Did they come as a complete kit or did you have to just count up the different sizes and order all individual pieces?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Fuel tanks on Blazers were like an after thought in there design. I replaced mine with a poly tank, heated up the filler neck with a heat gun and bent the tube forward 30 degree's. Not a great alternative but it works for now. Filling at the pump is slow 7 Min's. Good luck.... rest of your Blazer is looking good.....Ed

I'm dreading this part because that filler neck is directly in-line with the shackle. I was thinking of using a rubber hose and bending it, but I'm not sure if would cause a kink in the hose or not.

I'm open to any alternatives even if it means paying somebody to fabricate some sort of extension that bends and curves up like the original. Is something like even possible?

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I'm dreading this part because that filler neck is directly in-line with the shackle. I was thinking of using a rubber hose and bending it, but I'm not sure if would cause a kink in the hose or not.

I'm open to any alternatives even if it means paying somebody to fabricate some sort of extension that bends and curves up like the original. Is something like even possible?

Look up filler neck supply, i used them and they have several prebent hoses, or you could go old school and put an external spring on it, or internal. Keeps the hose from kinking...

I fooled around with mine for months and months, ruining the oem tank neck, until not so lo came to my rescue, and gave me me a new neck to start over with....putting it back in the oem location was the only answer. Take a look at my build it might give you some ideas



20140923_080310 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/people/97391199@N06/]

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Look up filler neck supply, i used them and they have several prebent hoses, or you could go old school and put an external spring on it, or internal. Keeps the hose from kinking...

I fooled around with mine for months and months, ruining the oem tank neck, until not so lo came to my rescue, and gave me me a new neck to start over with....putting it back in the oem location was the only answer. Take a look at my build it might give you some ideas



20140923_080310 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/people/97391199@N06/]

Thanks, Jim

I checked out their website. They only carry the 1 1/4 inch 90 degree bend. I think if I used that and trimmed it down, I might be able to make this work. However, I would still need to connect another hose to this hose that then connects to the filler hose pipe.

I was scrolling through you build thread but couldn't find the section where you modified the filler neck. Do you remember what page it is?

Btw - You have some really great reference material from what I've seen so far in your build.

[jaros44sr]

Thanks....i think around page 87 is some of my tank problems

I thought for sure they had 45degree, but you may end up sleeving the hose, to get what you want, and use certain parts of the hose. The OEM metal tube off of the tank has about 3 differant angles and bends. The problem is that little stub they give you to start with, the oem has bend right away

I may have some straight alum. tubing to sleeve it

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks....i think around page 87 is some of my tank problems

I thought for sure they had 45degree, but you may end up sleeving the hose, to get what you want, and use certain parts of the hose. The OEM metal tube off of the tank has about 3 differant angles and bends. The problem is that little stub they give you to start with, the oem has bend right away

I may have some straight alum. tubing to sleeve it

Thanks, I'll check it out.
They have 45 degree angle bends for every size except a 1 1/4 which is what I need.. Figures..

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Thanks, I'll check it out.
They have 45 degree angle bends for every size except a 1 1/4 which is what I need.. Figures..

Well, its close enough that a good clamp could squeeze it down to make a proper seal, or you could take 1/2 of the 90 and add a tube(sleeve)

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Is this Radiator Hose salvageable? I'd like to use it to keep the original look.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Well, its close enough that a good clamp could squeeze it down to make a proper seal, or you could take 1/2 of the 90 and add a tube(sleeve)

I think the 45 degree would make for an easier install and take your advice and clamp it down tight enough to seal it.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Is this Radiator Hose salvageable? I'd like to use it to keep the original look.

If you get rid of the blue, it would work. I d use a sealant like permatex (old school) aviation to seal up the imperfections. If it leaks, then get another one, got one here if it fails.....

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I think I found my missing Xmember... It was right there in front my the whole time, just not in it's original place

I am almost certain the original owner cut the cross member and moved it back just behind the last body mount and has it running above the frame rail and welded it to the square looking block.



He also fabricated this piece that is welded to the backside of the xmember so he could have a hitch, which he cut the hitch off, btw.



Is this square looking block that is sitting on top of the body mount stock on these blazers or is this another brilliant modifications the OO made? I'll look again today to see if it is welded to the body of the blazer or the top of the frame.. If it's welded to the top of the frame then I think it's definitely a modification because other blazer frames that I've seen with the body off the frame have not shown this piece.

[bluek5]

Hello,
I do believe that you are indeed missing a cross member. I tried to take some pictures of one of mine. I have three 4x4 Blazers and they all have the cross member. The pictures are from my 71. The 72 frame goes back and bolts directly to the bumper. The cross member is riveted top and bottom four rivets total. Hope this helps.
Paul

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks BlueK5. That does help.

I found a local place that carries a lot of parts for our trucks. I was able to pick this up..

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Opinions welcome please

I'm going back in forth between purchasing a new oem style 4 Row radiator to keep the factory look, but I really like these aluminum ones by Entropy. I also like the idea that it can come equipped with dual electric fans. It's also a direct fit.

As far as originality, does a radiator make much of a difference?

My K5 isn't 100% original anyways, since I have a different engine and missing the air cleaner, but most everything else is pretty original.

[DeadheadNM]

Admittedly, I am a biased purist. You've gone through a lot to keep the K5 looking OEM. IMO the aluminum would look out of place and unless a big cost savings I'd say get a new brass/copper. If possible, rebuilding the original Harrison may be the least expensive way to go and you know it will fit with the existing mounts and available cushions. Some aluminum radiators will fit but not align well with the mounts.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Admittedly, I am a biased purist. You've gone through a lot to keep the K5 looking OEM. IMO the aluminum would look out of place and unless a big cost savings I'd say get a new brass/copper. If possible, rebuilding the original Harrison may be the least expensive way to go and you know it will fit with the existing mounts and available cushions. Some aluminum radiators will fit but not align well with the mounts.

The Aluminum one would run $650 + $150 for the wiring harness.

Classic Heartbeat has the brass/copper 4 row for $389 + another $400 for dual electric fans and wiring. It's pretty break even at that point.

I think I'll end up going with the OEM look but with electric fans.

[jaros44sr]

I m afraid i m going to have to side on originality on this one, i ve struggled mightily with my alum. rad., didnt help that i was using a '68 front end, which is designed for a single row rad.

My biggest issue was outlet pipe on the bottom, if that is not ' just right' you ll struggle to find an answer to make it work

I would think an OEM rad. would work w/o fans, many a original truck did nt have them
JMHO

[mx289]

I'am having this exact same dilemma on my k25

$650 for a radiator is what gives me pause.

I did not know Classic Heartbeat sold radiators.I will have to look into that.

And you guys are right.These trucks run just fine with OEM parts.

[DeadheadNM]

Do you have the original (or equivalent) radiator?

[Tom Vogel]

An original 4row will cool just fine. Id personally stick with the GM clutch fan unless you have some reason to need the elect. fan setup.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Do you have the original (or equivalent) radiator?

I do. When the truck did run, the coolant was always a brown color. Can these things be completely cleaned and refurbished?

If so, I rather go that route.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

An original 4row will cool just fine. Id personally stick with the GM clutch fan unless you have some reason to need the elect. fan setup.

The only reason I'm considering the electric fan is that I heard the fan clutch sucks up horse power and I'll be running the AC unit as well.

Is there much noticeable difference in power w/o the use of fan clutch?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

I m afraid i m going to have to side on originality on this one, i ve struggled mightily with my alum. rad., didnt help that i was using a '68 front end, which is designed for a single row rad.

My biggest issue was outlet pipe on the bottom, if that is not ' just right' you ll struggle to find an answer to make it work

I would think an OEM rad. would work w/o fans, many a original truck did nt have them
JMHO

I think I am convinced. After my experience with the poly gas tank, I don't want to deal with anything else that does not bolt on exactly right.. I don't have the skills for custom fab