1972 Build thread.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

It looks to be in really good condition coming from the blaster. If you don't have to fight rust you are almost finished. I will be following along.

PS - thanks for following along!

[DeadheadNM]

Nice. Thanks for the update.

[Ol Blue K20]

I'm jumping on to watch

[Spf79]

Quick update!

My day job has been slowly killing me, so the Blazer progress has been limited.

Since my last post I changed directions on the paint and body, I now have it at a local body shop... hoping to have it home before Thanksgiving.

Once the major body work is complete, and in primer/guide coat, it will get Rhino lined inside and underneath... after that, we are back to the shop for paint.

Let's see, what else...

I finally got my front driveline back and in place. The driveline process was painful, and expensive. Let's just say I was caught off guard. Not pleased, but it fits and should work.

I also got my tranny shifter in place as well. I went with a Gennie Shifter. I had to mess with the mount to get it to fit, and I am somewhat satisfied with it... I need to mess with the bolt up at the back on the housing. I have a 4-speed handle mocked up for right now. I haven't decided what I am doing for a shifter handle yet... still have plenty of time.

[Ol Blue K20]

It looks good, I hope the shop does what they say. Don't want it stuck in paint prison.

[geb78]

Looking forward to seeing it rhino lined. I'm thinking of going in that direction.

[rsavage]

You have a great Blazer going there. I am not a fan of rhino lining any portion of a Blazer. It lowers the value significantly in my opinion. In any event, nice build underway and I look forward to seeing more progress.

[Spf79]

Here are some pics of the Rhino lining I had applied. I hope to get the body back from paint and mated to the chassis over the weekend... looks like I may have to skip out and take a 1/2 day on Friday. Yes!!!

As far as hurting the value of the Blazer as a whole... with the liner added, I get it. For the people looking for the all original, unmolested truck to buy or restore - this would hurt the value. On the other hand, I may be buried in this thing... I don't plan on selling it, I will let my boys worry about that when I'm dead. Lol.

Thank you guys for all of the compliments, this has been a long haul for me. I appreciate the encouragement.

[Spf79]

More pics

516 Orange was the choice.

The hardest part was finding a decent used passenger side fender. No aftermarket metal! Except for the rockers...

It is fun to see a bunch of body/paint guys excited to work on my Blazer rather than the insurance work coming in their door.

[Spf79]

Heater box refurbished...

I had the under dash box powder coated, and I painted the plastic portion.
Strangely enough, all of my internal rubber and foam was is great shape.

The outer box got a paint job, I wanted to satin clear the box - but it had a lot of weird discoloration and rust marks that I could not get sanded out of it. Statin black is what happened, I'm a bit disappointed, but I think it will look good in the end.

The bolt that was formed into the heater box mold makes me laugh. There was two places... someone was having a bad day.

[Spf79]

More pics...

First time I have ever pop riveted anything, it is fun.
I'm odd. Sorry.

Ha!

[DeadheadNM]

Nice progress!

[Spf79]

Getting closer..

They have some minor fixes to do, but all and all it looks really good!
Picking it up Saturday, hopefully everything goes smooth.

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks great!

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Looks great!

Thank you sir!!

[DeadheadNM]

Are you adding flat paint atop the dash where the vents are to match dash pad color?

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Are you adding flat paint atop the dash where the vents are to match dash pad color?

Yes sir, I will do that myself... trying to save money where I can. This project has gotten out of hand.

Ha! I never noticed that the vents were color matched. Thank you for the information! Were they painted, or molded with pigmented resin back in the day?

While I have you, is there a chance that I could get your opinion on windshield rubber and stainless insert trim? Best manufacturer to use at the moment. I have a bunch of forum posts saved, but sometimes qualities change, or new products arrive. Same question for you about lower side molding with the wood grain. Any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you sir

[DeadheadNM]

Good deal! That’s often overlooked glad you’re on it.

It’s funny, most but not all oem vents were molded in color. Blue, green, dark saddle, or black are the molded colors I recall for 72. I’ve pulled/held vents that were also sprayed to match the color. An ochre/parchment Blazer in a salvage yard in MT stands out. The color atop the dash was the lighter sandlewood brown to match the dash. The vents were molded in blue but visible surface was sprayed that sandlewood to match.

[DeadheadNM]

As for the windshield trim. If it were me, I’d forego repro trim for OEM. Don’t waste the time/money with repro trim. Unless some retooling has occurred it just won’t fit. The oem stainless trim can be polished to a nice shine. Use the Precision brand gasket that corresponds to the trim. If you have 71-72 trim with the shallow purchase get the 71-72 gasket. Either pre-71 or 71-72 OEM trim should install without much grief.

Precision has an install video if the glass guys need a tutorial of if you want to do it yourself.

[7D2N]

Very nice build, your attention to detail is amazing. I glad to see this again and will be following along.
7D2N

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

Very nice build, your attention to detail is amazing. I glad to see this again and will be following along.
7D2N

Thank you!

I had to save for the paint, so I went dark on this project for a little bit. It feels good to be back.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

As for the windshield trim. If it were me, I’d forego repro trim for OEM. Don’t waste the time/money with repro trim. Unless some retooling has occurred it just won’t fit. The oem stainless trim can be polished to a nice shine. Use the Precision brand gasket that corresponds to the trim. If you have 71-72 trim with the shallow purchase get the 71-72 gasket. Either pre-71 or 71-72 OEM trim should install without much grief.

Precision has an install video if the glass guys need a tutorial of if you want to do it yourself.

Thank you for the education, I am now on the hunt!!

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

As for the windshield trim. If it were me, I’d forego repro trim for OEM. Don’t waste the time/money with repro trim. Unless some retooling has occurred it just won’t fit. The oem stainless trim can be polished to a nice shine. Use the Precision brand gasket that corresponds to the trim. If you have 71-72 trim with the shallow purchase get the 71-72 gasket. Either pre-71 or 71-72 OEM trim should install without much grief.

Precision has an install video if the glass guys need a tutorial of if you want to do it yourself.

Pete has given some good advice here!

[Spf79]

Body is officially on the frame.

I have a couple of small issues.

(#1) The body is touching the top of the transfer case. Just a smidge.looks like an easy fix, but if I drop the t-case an 1" it may create an issue with the tall valve covers kissing the firewall...

(#2) The soft ride springs in the rear have my rear axle forward at least 2-1/2"... not OK, this will get addressed as soon as I educate myself on the issue. I have been seeing this on lifted Blazers for a while.

(#3) passenger side header does not fit. It is swept back to far, the flange is almost up against the body flange at the bottom of the firewall. They were cheap headers from a local mom and pop shop here in town.

Everything else seems good for the moment. I'll elaborate with some pics in a little while.

Thank you Classic Heartbeat... the body mounts were top notch.

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by Spf79

I have a couple of small issues.

(#2) The soft ride springs in the rear have my rear axle forward at least 2-1/2"... not OK, this will get addressed as soon as I educate myself on the issue. I have been seeing this on lifted Blazers for a while.

(#3) passenger side header does not fit. It is swept back to far, the flange is almost up against the body flange at the bottom of the firewall. They were cheap headers from a local mom and pop shop here in town.

My two cents on these issues since you're getting help on the Tcase.

You can use something like this to move the axle back in the wheel well.
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Leaf-...n-Plates/20071

There's similar parts available just find the one you want. Another option is to remove your rear axle, cut off the stock perches and weld on these: https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/2-5-L...rch/16871/3373

I went with option two to center my axle up in the wheel well.


For your headers I'd recommend Sanderson headers. I used these and they fit and look amazing. Happy to post a pic if you want.
https://www.sandersonheaders.com/san...ategory_id=551