S10 Frame Swap w/ AD and LS motor

[99 to Life]

yup soooo many pieces that never get seen. so many journeys in a build. There are always things that can be better next time around. That is life esp with a hotrod. Heck just shaking the truck down can take months sometimes.

[Homebuilt Hotrods]

Great build!

[MIKESAD50]

Like the cold air idea.

[tlorber]

Here's what the inner fenders look like after Raptor Liner. I just sprayed the bottoms with rubberized undercoating, so I can get them back on the truck.

[99 to Life]

I liked raptor liner. looks good

[Mains52]

Those look really good as does the rest of the build. I think I may steal your undercoating idea as my inner fenders are off a junkyard truck and are pretty ugly. Great Work

[AZDavid]

Your build is looking great! I used the Raptor Liner also on the 66 C10 I'm building right now. It sprays super easy and looks really good.

[tlorber]

Here's what the cold air intake looks like. I'm in the process of building a shroud that will protect the filter from dirt/water/junk that is flung up by the tire. The shroud will be attached to the fender brace. I have a feeling that this will not be very fun to access with the fender on, but I shouldn't have to deal with it too often.

[tlorber]

Here's what the air filter looks like with the shroud around it.




Now that this project is done, I really need to finish up the cab electrical. I can't put it off any longer.

[mongocanfly]

Did you put drain holes in that shroud?

[tlorber]

Yeah, at the edges and bottom in case it needs to be rinsed out.

[99 to Life]

looks good.

[tlorber]

I've been working on wiring up my cab and fan controller. They are pretty close to complete. Truck starts and idles great. Here is a picture of the gauges installed. For the time being I'm going with the clear coat over rust look.


I do have a couple gremlins I'm hoping to get help with though:

1) I don't appear to have any tach signal coming from the PCM wire. Does anyone know any diagnostics for that?

2) PCM is throwing a P0068 Code which is a conflict between MAF Sensor/Throttle Position Sensor/MAP sensor (this truck is drive by wire). Also, this might be related, but I have a bit of a lag between when I stab the throttle at idle and when it speeds up.

Any input will be greatly appreciated.

[OutlawDrifter]

Originally Posted by tlorber

1) I don't appear to have any tach signal coming from the PCM wire. Does anyone know any diagnostics for that?

2) PCM is throwing a P0068 Code which is a conflict between MAF Sensor/Throttle Position Sensor/MAP sensor (this truck is drive by wire). Also, this might be related, but I have a bit of a lag between when I stab the throttle at idle and when it speeds up.

Any input will be greatly appreciated.

1.) Could be a connection issue, pin pushed out in the harness at the ecu. Also the tach and/or ecu will have to be set correctly to run the tach, as an LS style engine doesn't give the true 8cyl signal.

2.) The pedal and throttle body may need to go through a relearn process in order to function together.

Have you posted these questions in the LS swap section? There is a member on here "aknovaman", who does all of my tuning. He is a true wizard when it comes to the wiring.

Great progress! I too am building a 1-ton LS powered GMC.

[tlorber]

I've been out of town for a while so I just got back to working on the truck. I had a blown fuse on the circuit that feeds the MAF sensor, tranny and O2 sensors. After replacing this the error code appears to be gone. Not only that, but with a "pull up circuit" (as described here and on the LSTech sites) I now have a tach signal. When I had my PCM flashed he must have changed the output signal because the tach appears to be accurate when set to the 8 cylinder setting as opposed to the 4 cyl.

[99 to Life]

nice info. EFI is great but yeah figuring some simple like this out is just something that you gotta experience sometimes. I guess you can say the same for a mechanical set up like a carb or distributor, just takes some things failing to find out how things really work.

[tlorber]

Well, the irony is that the error code caused me to test the MAF sensor. If it weren't for finding the fault in that circuit, I'd still be scratching my head as to why the tach wasn't working. Now I believe I have all gauges functioning. I won't really know on the speedo until I get it on the road, because the odometer needs to be calibrated before the speedo dial will deflect.

[99 to Life]

good to know especially for others that may encounter the same issue. That's whats so nice about build threads.

[tlorber]

Here is the fan controller I'm using.



It uses pulse width modulation and converts a single speed fan (a Lincoln Mark VIII in my case) into a variable speed fan. Power comes directly from the battery and it uses a temp sensor at the output of the radiator, so it does not use the PCM. The nice part is that the fan only spins as fast as it needs to in order to keep the engine cool. You can vary the temp at which it turns on, and there is a manual override and an AC switch that will both kick it to high when they are turned on.

[99 to Life]

thats a nice setup

[OutlawDrifter]

Looks like a pretty slick deal. I may have to look into that if the Volvo 2-speed relay doesn't work out on my setup.

[tlorber]

I've gotten most of my front end sheet metal put back on, and I installed an overflow tank. I actually got this thing moving under its own power last weekend-first time in almost 4 years.



Once I get brake lights and doors on and have it aligned, I can put her on the road.

[99 to Life]

congrats, one of the best feelings ever is that first roll outta the shop.

[oldman3]

Same here congrats...Jim

[tlorber]

I began putting the weatherstrip on my driver's side door.



This video was very helpful for when you get to this point. The first door took me about 45 minutes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuuZpec4rXo