![]() |
![]() |
#176 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 610
|
Re: Rods 57
Thanks Kim, I think i will use the fiberglass filler after talking to a body guy. I am worried about it cracking in time and driving stress. I would like to hear if anyone has used it though just to get some idea of how to work it best.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#177 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 64
|
Re: Rods 57
Tiger hair is super strong (fiberglass hairs) but is a mess to work with very similar to duraglass typically used on fiberglass boat applications. It doesn't lay out smooth like bondo and it is hard to sand... The end result will be better and stronger but it will take lots more work to get it sanded and looking nice, just my .02.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#178 | |
Certified Car Nut
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Inglewood, California
Posts: 3,118
|
Re: Rods 57
Quote:
I use Fiberglass Reinforced Filler over all my welded seams (I've used duraglass, marglass, and kitty hair but imo they are about same as far as quality). Don't believe the myth that they are water proof, they are not. They water resistant and stronger than regular filler. For moister protection I epoxy primer first and add filler on top as needed. BTW I really don't think its needed, but I've always done it and its just a habit now. That will be 20 bucks and I do not except checks.lol Your project is looking really good man keep up the good work. Last edited by Kabwe; 02-21-2012 at 02:57 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#179 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 610
|
Re: Rods 57
Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#180 |
Certified Car Nut
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Inglewood, California
Posts: 3,118
|
Re: Rods 57
Yeah that will work.lol
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#181 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
|
Re: Rods 57
i've used both kitty hair (bondo product) and duraglas (usc product), duraglas is a far superior product.
kitty hair is longer strands and a beotch to mix, duraglas mixes a lot better. i learned to use filler on bare metal only. i also do mostly hand sanding, green sanding is your friend. get on it asap, as soon as it doesn't stick to your sand paper, but before it fully cure makes for easier rough shaping. it will fall of like grated cheese with 80 grit ![]() i usually sand off 2/3 of what i put on anyway ![]() fiberglass fillers are waterproof, but porous. you do need to prime it before rust sets in. also don't sand any finer than 120 grit, that gives any filler over the fg filler ''bite''.
__________________
cool, an ogre smiley ![]() how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer Last edited by _Ogre; 02-22-2012 at 06:27 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#182 | |
Certified Car Nut
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Inglewood, California
Posts: 3,118
|
Re: Rods 57
Quote:
Sorry but if its porous its not water proof.lol If I have to prime it to make it water proof whats water proof the primer or the filler? That is not a dig at you but other people told me the same thing and then I say if its waterproof will it rust under that filler? The say not if you prime it.lol Regular filler is water proof once I epoxy primer on top of it, the epoxy primer creates the barrier not the filler. These fillers still have talc in them and talc absorbs moisture. At best it is water resistant. Filler on bare metal is fine has been done for years, I use to do it myself until I realized the benefits of epoxy primers for home builders. I use duraglass exclusively now and it does mix easier than kitty hair, marglass imo is close to duraglass but I still like duraglass a little better, but I don't know about the far superior talk. Once applied I think the durability is about the same and that's what I was speaking to not mixing or sanding but durability. Like I said before I think its really not needed if you put in the time to metal finished I still do it because old habits die hard. People use it over welds because they may have pin holes in their welds. If you clean your metal before welding you should not have pin holes. When I'm done with the duraglass its really thin, if I need more than a 16th of filler I do more metal work, but that's just me and the way I was taught. I've seen people use lots more and nothing has ever happened no cracks or anything, but thats the standard I go by, everybody has different standards. Oh I also may use it in areas that originally had lead filler from the factory as a replacement because if its strength. I'm pretty nutty when it comes to this stuff so maybe I'm not the one to ask. Last edited by Kabwe; 04-17-2012 at 10:33 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#183 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 610
|
Re: Rods 57
Thanks for the info, sounds like it is very similar to any body filler. Bam your check is in the mail, ok not really but not a bad idea. The good news is I did find the Bam symbol...
So if you look out your window and into the sky and see it, just know its me crying for help... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#184 |
Certified Car Nut
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Inglewood, California
Posts: 3,118
|
Re: Rods 57
LOL.You are crazy.lol
You are doing a wonderful job on your truck. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#185 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cali.
Posts: 958
|
Re: Rods 57
Rods57- That Bam sign is fricken awesome and it fits Kabwe perfect. You ask him a question here or via PM and thats exactly what you get. A BAM answer, it's always a no B/S, perfect answer that will get you through the task your having problems with (truck related or anything eles). We need to support the guy and get some made. If he's helped you out, you need to wear the sticker on your truck!
__________________
My build, 53 GMC / S10 swap http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=305723 My build, 59 Chevy / 88 fullsize swap http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hlight=sgtusmc U.S. Marines - Certified Counselors to the 72 Virgins Dating Club. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#186 |
A320 Pilot/USAF Retired
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,622
|
Re: Rods 57
BAM's the Man!
__________________
JJ My 1957 build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=334552 http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22037 Instagram - Chuckdriver57 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#187 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 610
|
Re: Rods 57
I love it! I would totally put a Bam sticker on the truck. Thanks for all the comments about the glass products everyone i am the same as you Bam, I put epoxy primer on before any filler and I want to use the glass to put strength in areas i have welded. as far as filler thickness i learned a cool trick from abody guy who uses a refrigerator magnet as a gauge. If the magnet sticks it not to thick.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#188 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
|
Re: Rods 57
i think i got
![]()
__________________
cool, an ogre smiley ![]() how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#189 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: richmond ill
Posts: 376
|
Re: Rods 57
kabwe is right epoxy primer over bare metal. then filler work. and in reality every time you sand though to bare metal you should re epoxy. its like a sandwich. and the best repair and protection for the metal. just regular primer is like a sponge it absorbes moisture. ever see rust bleeding through a car that has just primer on it. it takes longer but thats how to make your work last. and epoxy primer is all i use for sealer before i paint. been doing this profssionally for 30 years never had a come back problem
GOT BAM! Last edited by R.A.D; 02-25-2012 at 08:42 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#190 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
|
Re: Rods 57
Hey rods57 where's an update?
Posted via Mobile Device
__________________
cool, an ogre smiley ![]() how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#191 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 610
|
Re: Rods 57
ogre, I am doing the boring sand, prime repeat game. I did find some really nice fenders though so I will post those pics asap.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#192 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
|
Re: Rods 57
block sanding is fun... not
switch arms often or you'll end up lop sided with one popeye arm.
__________________
cool, an ogre smiley ![]() how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#193 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 610
|
Re: Rods 57
Ok, big tire question. what is the biggest size tires can fit under the front end without rubbing? i am going for something like these pictures, and i have 235/75/15
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#194 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 610
|
Re: Rods 57
Swap meet at the Firebird raceway today, trans cooler and fittings...
also thought I would show my youngest's birthmark, its a Bowie, my wife says its my fault, I say "yes it is, thank you"... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#195 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Idaho
Posts: 8,800
|
Re: Rods 57
Cool score, I was going out there but ended up at the doc in a box instead.
__________________
1959 Chevy Short Fleetside w/ 74 4WD drive train (current project) OrrieG Build Thread 1964 Chevelle Malibu w/ 355-350TH (daily driver) Helpful AD and TF Manual Site Old Car Manual Project |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#196 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Monson,MA
Posts: 503
|
Re: Rods 57
same trans cooler I just installed...
I hope they work as well as they look! Brian
__________________
current project; 1950 GMC "Junk Yard Dawg" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635960 ___________________________________________ SOLD to "ONEBADFIVEFIVE" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=436406 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#197 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 191
|
Re: Rods 57
Nice score on the cooler. I was looking at getting the same style. Looking for some feedback on how well they work?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#198 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
|
Re: Rods 57
Quote:
look in my build for how i made mine
__________________
cool, an ogre smiley ![]() how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#199 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 610
|
Re: Rods 57
those are my fronts, 235/15 what are yours?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#200 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 151
|
Re: Rods 57
Read your entire build thread. Love the clean frame and motor. Great work so far. Coming along real nice.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|