My 1955 Chevy 3100 build

[55 Chevy Dave]

I am also concerned about the front springs. I put them in prior to dropping in the engine so that I could establish the final ride height, but when I allowed the weight of the engine and trans to sit on the crossmember, the front end didn't drop at all. The springs did not compress one bit. I put an extra 200 pounds on the front end and I climbed up on top of the frame and jumped on it and the frame hardly moves.

I read somewhere in this forum that the lower a-arms should be close to parallel with the ground and mine aren't even close with the engine weight on the crossmember.

The springs I ordered were intended for a small block Chevy. The first fix that comes to mind is to cut a coil or two out of each of the springs, but I shouldn't need to do that since these springs were ordered as part of the kit with the a-arms and crossmember and meant for this engine.

Not sure what to do with this problem!

[Advanced Design]

Nice resave on the fender Dave.

For positioning the engine, I start the set with crankshaft parallel to the frame and back far enough to make sure there is room for the accessory drive and radiator. Then high enough so the oil pan bottom is about even with the crossmember.

The front propshaft working angle also needs to be within 1/2 degree of the rear propshaft working angle. The front propshaft working angle is the angle of an imaginary line extending from the centerline of the transmission output shaft intersecting an imaginary line extending forward from the centerline of the propshaft. And that angle can't be zero degrees or the u joint will fail.

So, most folks use an angle finder on the end of the trans and set everything 2 or 3 degrees angle down to the floor. Then same for pinion and that gets you close.

Springs - yes, the lower control arm should be parallel to the floor with all the parts and weight back on the truck. And springs will settle after some miles too. So before changing springs, put everything together, add drivers weight and recheck. If it looks close then and maybe just a little high, put some miles on and recheck.

[oldman3]

Chevy Dave, Good info from Doug. Something my son and I have done for years is to use pipe or tubing to make up a homemade adjustable bar to replace spring, while setting engine in place. Here's a couple pics showing what I mean. Another way to set engine angle is to place a level on the carb base on intake, set it to 0 degress, this usually has the trans at about 3 degree down.

[55 Chevy Dave]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Chevy Dave, Good info from Doug. Something my son and I have done for years is to use pipe or tubing to make up a homemade adjustable bar to replace spring, while setting engine in place. Here's a couple pics showing what I mean. Another way to set engine angle is to place a level on the carb base on intake, set it to 0 degress, this usually has the trans at about 3 degree down.

And thank you Oldman3. I took your advice, removed the front coil springs and made some temporary adjustable springs out of some solid round bar stock I had laying around. I installed them and set the lower a-arms parallel with the ground.

[55 Chevy Dave]

I then moved the engine and transmission back into place. I checked all of my measurements and angles and proceeded to weld in the transmission mount.

[55 Chevy Dave]

The engine mounts that I received with the front IFS kit from Classic Performance Products needed to be trimmed up a bit and then I welded them in place.

If anybody sees anything wrong with what I have done, please let me know. It would be a lot easier to fix now!

[Kim57]

Nice repair on the front fender.
engine look s real good.
Kim

[ptc]

Hey Dave, Everything is looking great you're well on your way. I wouldn't let the spring thing bug you too much. Can always adjust the size later on to fit whatever needs you have. They interchange easy. You also have to remember that you're not building a front "truck" suspension any longer, its more of a car 'weighted' suspension now that you've changed it all to MUST II IFS, with alum rnp steering, removed all the extra steel, etc etc.... The front end weight of your "truck/car" is going to be ALOT less.... and handle MUCHO BETTER!!!

[55 Chevy Dave]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice resave on the fender Dave.

For positioning the engine, I start the set with crankshaft parallel to the frame and back far enough to make sure there is room for the accessory drive and radiator. Then high enough so the oil pan bottom is about even with the crossmember.

The front propshaft working angle also needs to be within 1/2 degree of the rear propshaft working angle. The front propshaft working angle is the angle of an imaginary line extending from the centerline of the transmission output shaft intersecting an imaginary line extending forward from the centerline of the propshaft. And that angle can't be zero degrees or the u joint will fail.

So, most folks use an angle finder on the end of the trans and set everything 2 or 3 degrees angle down to the floor. Then same for pinion and that gets you close.

Springs - yes, the lower control arm should be parallel to the floor with all the parts and weight back on the truck. And springs will settle after some miles too. So before changing springs, put everything together, add drivers weight and recheck. If it looks close then and maybe just a little high, put some miles on and recheck.

Originally Posted by ptc

Hey Dave, Everything is looking great you're well on your way. I wouldn't let the spring thing bug you too much. Can always adjust the size later on to fit whatever needs you have. They interchange easy. You also have to remember that you're not building a front "truck" suspension any longer, its more of a car 'weighted' suspension now that you've changed it all to MUST II IFS, with alum rnp steering, removed all the extra steel, etc etc.... The front end weight of your "truck/car" is going to be ALOT less.... and handle MUCHO BETTER!!!

Originally Posted by Kim57

Nice repair on the front fender.
engine look s real good.
Kim

Thanks for the information and the feedback. I really appreciate you taking the time.

[oldman3]

Dave, looks good to me. You might want to put on the exhaust, put in column, and see how clearance will be for shaft to rack and column...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Does look good. Maybe check radiator to accessories clearance too.

[Kim57]

Looks good.
Kim

[RockinKees]

Looks good to me too!

[ptc]

Yea I agree - Headers are going to be #1 to check fit on and if you want to get that full 450 HP dont skimp on primary header tube size just to make them fit. Go big and go full length if you got the clearance. The shortys and the small tube headers will rob you blind of power. There are some new "frame fit" headers out now that stay above the frame rails and you can get them in 1.875" primary tube to 3" collectors I believe.

I may have to build a custom set for my engine build.... they just dont make 2"+ primary tube off-the-shelf headers anymore!

[55 Chevy Dave]

If all goes as planned, this 16 gauge sheet and wheelbarrow will become my new firewall by the end of the long, holiday weekend coming up. If everything goes as planned, I'll have the "after" pictures ready to post next week.

Thanks for the wheelbarrow idea, Kim57!

[Advanced Design]

The wheel barrow mod is an oldie and a good one for needed space. Your engine is in place and the space looks ok. Maybe for distributor room?

If you are going to put in AC, be sure you will still have room for the hvac case under dash.

[Kim57]

Looks like you have clearance now.
Looking forward to pics.
Kim

[55 Chevy Dave]

I believe I have enough clearance for the engine with the factory firewall now.

I am replacing it primarily for aesthetics. I had planned on filling all of the holes in the firewall and also wanted to remove the pinch weld seams between the firewall and cab and smooth out everything. There is also some rust at the floor/firewall on the passenger side that I need to cut out and replace.

It seemed like the easiest way to accomplish all of this was to remove the existing firewall and install a new firewall. $400.00 seems a bit too expensive for an aftermarket smooth firewall, so I decided to make my own.

The firewall in my 71 Camaro still bothers me to this day. I know if I don't fix the firewall on my truck, it will always bother me as well. When the truck is completed, I believe it will be time well spent.

[ptc]

Lookin good Dave... I may still go the wheelbarrow route, but I am trying to get my motor moved forward enough to keep my firewall intact. Im anxious to see how yours looks now.... may just add to my LIST of things to do! lol

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by 55 Chevy Dave

I believe I have enough clearance for the engine with the factory firewall now.

I am replacing it primarily for aesthetics. I had planned on filling all of the holes in the firewall and also wanted to remove the pinch weld seams between the firewall and cab and smooth out everything. There is also some rust at the floor/firewall on the passenger side that I need to cut out and replace.

It seemed like the easiest way to accomplish all of this was to remove the existing firewall and install a new firewall. $400.00 seems a bit too expensive for an aftermarket smooth firewall, so I decided to make my own.

The firewall in my 71 Camaro still bothers me to this day. I know if I don't fix the firewall on my truck, it will always bother me as well. When the truck is completed, I believe it will be time well spent.

I have to agree with you on the price of aftermarket replacement panels.
I replaced my fire wall and floor with a piece like you're doing for a fraction of what replacement panels cost.
Good luck on it.
Kim

[Nut Case]

55 I've pulled electrical like Scott2 recommended, just take a rag put some motor oil on the rag and coat the wires in a light coating of oil it will reduce the resistance to been pulled thru a conduit. Keep up the post. Nut Case

[55 Chevy Dave]

First, thank you again for the advice on pulling the wire through the conduit in the frame.

Second, I know it has been a while since my last post. As usual, the latest project did not go as planned and took quite a bit longer than I had hoped. The firewall project was a difficult one! Not to mention I had some other obligations that kept me from spending every weekend in the garage. With it being colder in Chicago now, it is difficult to get work in there during the week after work.

I started this project by pulling the engine and transmission out. I was getting tired of separating the engine and trans for storage when it was not in the truck, so I added onto a cart I had laying around the garage. It worked out well! The engine and trans roll around the garage nicely now.

I then pulled the cab off of the frame and put it onto it's homemade cart.

I flipped over the frame and welded the underside of the engine and trans mounts now that I know they are in the right place.

[55 Chevy Dave]

I then proceeded to cut the pinch weld all the way around the firewall. I tried to keep as much material attached to the cab as I could. I hammered the leftover metal from the pinch weld flat so that I would have something to weld the new panel to. This worked out well as it would have been so much more difficult to butt weld the new panel to the cab.

[55 Chevy Dave]

I then made a cardboard template to get the right size for the new firewall.

When cutting out the old firewall, I cut around the factory transmission cover in an attempt to save it. I was hopeful that I would not need to fabricate that also. I had some rust holes in the floor on the passenger side where it met the firewall, so I decided to cut out the floor on both sides and replace that at the same time. The metal was solid at the cab braces, so I didn't need to cut any more of the floor out than what you see in the third picture.

[55 Chevy Dave]

I then cut the top section of the firewall out of 16-gauge sheet metal from my cardboard template. After fitting the piece, trimming it down a bit, fitting it again and trimming it down a bit again, I screwed it into place and welded it in. In the second picture, you can see how much the flattened pinch weld metal helped in the process.