Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build

[hgs_notes]

Met a guy yesterday that was a master body tech. He answered some questions I had, gave me a couple tips and said to call him if I had any more questions. I'm getting my confidence built back up now with encouragement here and elsewhere.

Went out to the garage today and scuffed/sanded the inside of the cab. Sanded a couple spots on the back that I missed before. I have a short work day tomorrow and plan on trying out more primer. I want to shoot the inside and put a second coat on the back and top.

That epoxy primer sands like crap BTW. It clogs up the paper almost immediately. Anyone have any tips for that?

[hgs_notes]

As planned, more spraying today. I changed the mix up a little to 8:2:1 paint/reducer/hardener and not sure I like it. It was easy enough to control, the pattern seemed ok, no runs, but the texture wasn't good. Looks like orange peel. If I increased the paint it got worse, so I dialed it back down and the droplets were smaller. Added more air and it got better, I think the thinner mix flowed much better. Maybe I'll try 8:3:1 next time and see if I like it better.

Using an HVLP gun is hard for overhead work. Doing the inside cab roof kinda sucked. Might be easier with a smaller cup size. Pretty much got the inside done except the floor. Recoated the back and top. Other than the orange peel texture, I think it turned out good. No sign of the filler spots either. It looks much better.







Might be able to see the texture more in this one.


It might look smoother after it dries and shrinks too. I'm not really worried because there is more primer and blocking to do, just stating what I'm seeing.

[hgs_notes]

Hmmm, you can actually see the texture more in the pics of the roof. Overall, I'm happy with it.

Time to get it turned around and work on the firewall I guess. I hate to set dates on myself, but I might be able to finish the cab yet this month.

[Dieselwrencher]

It is looking really nice. You might be discouraged due to the texture appearance. But atleast you are learning and figuring out your gun. Atleast it is primer and not paint. No big deal on the primer since you know it will need sanded again to get to your end result. Keep up the great work!

[hgs_notes]

Got some more garage time today. I found out I can turn the truck around inside the garage using my floor jack. Better light and more room to work this way. Cleaned up a dent on the firewall. Didn't spend too much time on it because I'm not doing anything special under the hood. I had a couple dings on the top side of the rockers, so I got those cleaned up a bit. I mixed up too much filler so pulled out one of the fenders and started getting it straightened out. It will definitely need more work, but I got started and made use of the filler rather than tossing it out. I also tried putting seam sealer in the rain gutter, but I'm not sure I did it right. I might have to clean it out and try again.

Before, with the half inch of filler:


After with maybe 1/8" filler:


Rockers:



fender


seam sealer

[nuke1]

Ok, well I sure wish i could see your pics at work today, but otherwise , congrats on getting more done and learning the gun, once you get use to it, it will be fine. As for the garage, everyone needs to clean up, i know it bothers me too some days.

[nuke1]

Ok, now that i am at home and can look at the pics, One helpful hint for the day, The seam sealer, use masking tape to make the line that you want to go around the cab with. On the inside edge and on the outside drip rail so none gets on it. Place your seamsealer and use some rubber gloves, or your finger. Next depending on the type of seam sealer, either wet your fingers with water or thinner, reducer and run your fingers along the seam sealer, just like when you do a bath tub surround. TRhis will give you a nice flowing look and then take the masking tape off right away, DO NOT let it sit there and let the sealer harder, will never look right or lay down right. Nite.

Good luck, and it is definetly coming along. James

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by nuke1

Ok, now that i am at home and can look at the pics, One helpful hint for the day, The seam sealer, use masking tape to make the line that you want to go around the cab with. On the inside edge and on the outside drip rail so none gets on it. Place your seamsealer and use some rubber gloves, or your finger. Next depending on the type of seam sealer, either wet your fingers with water or thinner, reducer and run your fingers along the seam sealer, just like when you do a bath tub surround. TRhis will give you a nice flowing look and then take the masking tape off right away, DO NOT let it sit there and let the sealer harder, will never look right or lay down right. Nite.

Good luck, and it is definetly coming along. James

Thanks for the tip James. I had not thought of taping it, but it makes sense.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Thanks for the tip James. I had not thought of taping it, but it makes sense.

I used the 3m self leveling caulk.


Sits flat like glass. ONLY issue is where it goes down the back. You have to dam it, then when it dries you add caulk to the back...

[nuke1]

I Have used this stuff lots also, way better than the actuall caulking

[hgs_notes]

They place where I got mine had a tube of self leveling, but just the one, and I wasn't sure if that would be enough so I got the other stuff. But after using this, I think I should have went with the self leveling. I think mine turned out ok on the vertical sections though.

[nuke1]

Looking really good there, you know you could just put the truxck together now let is rust a but and call that perfect PATINA, J/K. Anyways keep up the good work and get those patches in there and welded up, should not be too bad at all.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by nuke1

Looking really good there, you know you could just put the truxck together now let is rust a but and call that perfect PATINA, J/K. Anyways keep up the good work and get those patches in there and welded up, should not be too bad at all.

I've had that "rough, well seasoned" look for many, many years. Time to make it shiny.

[Ipaintgrt]

I read in your posts that you are sanding the epoxy primer. That does suck sanding that. If you need to sand it you can wet sand it with some grease and wax remover and some wet or dry sand paper. If your going to just prime over it you could just scotchbrite it. or recoat and apply a primer over it. Keep up the good work. Scott

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Ipaintgrt

I read in your posts that you are sanding the epoxy primer. That does suck sanding that. If you need to sand it you can wet sand it with some grease and wax remover and some wet or dry sand paper. If your going to just prime over it you could just scotchbrite it. or recoat and apply a primer over it. Keep up the good work. Scott

Thanks for the tip. I was just sanding the places where it had runs to flatten them out before any other coats went on. It worked. I'll be using the epoxy primer as a base only and covering with a more sand friendly primer later.

I didn't really plan on any welding repairs from here on out. I thought I would stick with the body adhesive where it was needed. I know it can be done, but I might find a gas bottle for my welder and give another try. The door repairs have thrown me a curve. The flux core just has too much spatter and heat to mess with on a long straight seam like the door.

[RCbowtie69]

Hey from N.C. looking at your progress, there alot of work you have done ,and it's looking good, keep up the hard work and pictures coming

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by RCbowtie69

Hey from N.C. looking at your progress, there alot of work you have done ,and it's looking good, keep up the hard work and pictures coming

I am. Thanks.

Here is todays progress update. Got a couple more hours of filling and sanding. The firewall is ready for primer. I filled a few small screw holes, another dent by the heater fan and another layer over the driver side dent. I forgot to sand and look over the rockers to make sure they are dent free. Then a little more sanding inside the cab and finish the gutter sealant and I'll be ready to finish primering the cab.

I also did more work to the fender. A little more sanding, some glazing putty and more sanding, and it will be ready for primer also. I'll probably do the other front fender next so I can primer all of that. I'll check out the other door later this week I think, and order patches as needed.

[hgs_notes]

Continued work on the fender tonight. Pretty much have the outside of it ready for primer. Flipped it over, took off the clip nuts or whatever they're called, but found a broken bolt in one of the nuts for the inner fender. Looks like it is going to be a real pain to get out. If anyone has an idea, I'd love to hear it.

The nut on the right, below where the hood hinge goes...


The fender...

[hgs_notes]

I've been thinking about how to fix my door. There are a few options.

1. Find a better door? Kinda overkill, mine's not that bad.
2. Use patches and either have someone weld them for me, get a gas set up for my welder and do it myself, or use the adhesive like I have been. The downside to this is having a weld seam along the length of the door or a patch panel and adhesive seam, and having to blend it all in with grinding and filler, etc.
3. Patch the inside and re-skin the outside. The whole skin is only about $65, and mine have had work done before, holes from old mirrors, dent, etc. No welding on the outside required.

Here are a couple threads on re-skinning. It seems easy enough, just be patient, take your time going around the edge, etc...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=door+skin

and here...
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12761

[hgs_notes]

Found a heck of a dealer on a welder today. I was looking for a gas bottle to add to my current welder. I already have the regulator and had used it years ago with gas. I thought I'd try again. Went into C&S Supply in Mankato and they had this...


marked down to $199.99. MIG or flux core, like mine, but more adjustability, more power, includes the cart, etc. They had more of them I think for any of you in the Mankato area that are looking for a great deal on a welder. Normal price was $449.99.

Went across the street to the welding gas supplier and got this...


It's a 40 cu.ft. tank. Bought for $105 and it's full of Argon/CO2. I've been shopping around and don't think I could have found a better deal. I'd like a bigger tank, but the salesman said they will buy back with in a year and I can go larger later if I want.

Both good deals I think. I should be able to sell my Craftsman welder and recoup a lot of what I spent today.

On another note, I was at a shop today and talking about my various projects. The mechanic said he had a friend with some fiberglass bed sides, maybe for a blazer. I left him my card, it might turn out to be a good deal. Who knows.

[lyrikz]

That tank will not last you. Its so cute though. I spent about 100 bucks for a full size tank. It didnt fit well on my tiny cart, but your going to BLOW through that thing...

Good buy on the welder.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by lyrikz

That tank will not last you. Its so cute though. I spent about 100 bucks for a full size tank. It didnt fit well on my tiny cart, but your going to BLOW through that thing...

Good buy on the welder.

Ain't it the cutest though?

I know it's not a lot of gas, but it's what I could afford for now. I can swap tanks for refills about a mile from my house too. I just got it set up and tried it out. Huge improvement over my old welder. When I first got that craftsman, I thought I had become a crappy welder all of a sudden, because it always looked bad and I couldn't get it set right. I was qualified for nuclear pipe welding in the navy. Could TIG some of the prettiest welds you ever saw in any position. I could stick weld under a table with a mirror on 1" sch 80 pipe. I learned to oxy/acet weld in high school, could MIG weld anything, got started on TIG back then too. But I could not make a good looking weld with that craftsman.

My first weld on this one was nice and smooth. I could see my puddle flowing, change the bead size with my speed, etc. It was sooooo nice.

Anyone want to buy my craftsman? j/k

[hgs_notes]

Spent the morning in the garage, working on the other fender. It was in better shape and didn't need as much filling. So it is now ready for primer also. I didn't primer today, and probably won't sunday either. I found a couple dings on the driver side rocker panel that needs filled and sanded first. And I don't think I have enough propane in my tank to ensure the garage stays warm as long as it needs to for curing. I'll have to get a refill next week. Time to pull the other door out of storage and see what kind of work it will need.

Todays progress...

[nuke1]

Looking much better, Isn't it amazing what a deiiference a wselder makes with gas? good buy, and start practicing, you will fall in love with it and want to weld everything, Oh and jsut to let you know, your mud work is getting way better, starting to feather out alot nicer. Way to go. I think you are getting more work done than me!

[hgs_notes]

Yeah, I do feel a lot more comfortable with what I'm doing. I'm not going to say I enjoy it, because I don't. But there is a lot of satisfaction with doing it myself and at least in MY mind, succeeding. I lost a lot of anxiety about doing this work and will be willing to take on my own projects in the future, but I won't be volunteering to do this for others. I know why it cost so much for bodywork. There is a lot of time involved and supplies ain't cheap.

The welder will probably see it's first real use on my doors.

I cleaned up the bottom to see what was what. It really wasn't too bad, but there is rust. The inner part is just rusted along the bottom edge, the outer has one hole in a corner. Is it possible to replace just the bottom edge without having to replace the lower door skin? How would you open up the flange or fold over? Is it worth bothering to save the outer skin or is it just easier to pull it off, replace the bottom inner and put on a new skin?

Seems like a waste to buy a whole inner door bottom to just use the bottom edge. Also a waste to buy an outer door bottom for a small patch. But if I don't there will be rust in that bottom seam that will show up eventually.





Ran out of propane after about 20 minutes this morning. It's comfortable in there, but I'm running out of work to do with what I have in there right now. I have to buy parts for both doors. My tailgate and bed are in the storage garage. I'll need a trailer to move the bed and it needs to go to the sandblaster anyway. I need to come up with something to do....