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Old 12-09-2014, 10:02 PM   #1
lower50's
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Great write up! It will help get more of these old trucks on the road.
I love the steering column part. Im almost ready to set mine up, but my motor is wider than a LS. How do you get the steering shaft around the motor do you have a pic?
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Old 12-09-2014, 10:12 PM   #2
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Re: S10 Swap how to

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Originally Posted by Coldshot View Post
What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.
I used D.O.M. tubular A arms made for the s-10 they are real nice and come with moog ball joints

http://cdn.airassisted.ca/Bolt-in-Ai...r-Control-Arms

Not the cheapest but really strong!!
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1951 MG TD
1967 Jeep CJ5 1.9L TDI 33X13.5X15 Mud Grapplers.
1952 GMC 9700 p/u 7.3L diesel on air, dually
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Old 12-10-2014, 02:17 AM   #3
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Same price as what I'm looking at so not to bad for the full set. If I buy arms tho I want to eliminate the spacers if I can.
I love your build, I can see why you want the super strong arms.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:29 AM   #4
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Lower50's; Thank you. I use a double Borgeson joint set up if the header interferes with steering shaft alignment. With a double setup you will need to capture the shaft near the second joint to keep it from binding. Look at "Rico F. '54 LS build" I have pics in that thread.
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Old 12-15-2014, 01:08 PM   #5
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Thanks Skymangs. That looks good I'll have to set something like that up.
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Old 12-22-2014, 12:58 AM   #6
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Thanks. Pm me if you run into any problems.
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:22 PM   #7
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Great info. I have 1947 long bed, had it 15 years, getting tired of fixing up old parts. The S10 swap sound like the way to go for me. Could I use the 4.3 V6, if so, do I need to move it? What about all that smog stuff on it, can it get discarded?
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Old 08-15-2017, 03:32 AM   #8
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Re: S10 Swap how to

I have my 51 cab and body mounted on my 92 S10 frame. I placed the cab mounts 2 1/8" forward of the oval holes. All the bolt holes in the cab line up with the mounts well. I hung my fenders, core support, inner fenders, and hood support. I cut the front frame horns 1/2" off of the steering box as well. When I tried to mount my grille to mock it up, the vertical supports that hold the grille together are hitting the frame rails. Did anyone else have this issue?
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Old 08-15-2017, 10:21 AM   #9
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Re: S10 Swap how to

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I have my 51 cab and body mounted on my 92 S10 frame. I placed the cab mounts 2 1/8" forward of the oval holes. All the bolt holes in the cab line up with the mounts well. I hung my fenders, core support, inner fenders, and hood support. I cut the front frame horns 1/2" off of the steering box as well. When I tried to mount my grille to mock it up, the vertical supports that hold the grille together are hitting the frame rails. Did anyone else have this issue?
notch the framerails for grill uprights. i've run into that before. remember, no two of these is exactly the same. that's exactly why no kit will ever fit as good as a custom build!
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Old 08-15-2017, 11:32 AM   #10
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Quote:
Originally Posted by dettmer13 View Post
I have my 51 cab and body mounted on my 92 S10 frame. I placed the cab mounts 2 1/8" forward of the oval holes. All the bolt holes in the cab line up with the mounts well. I hung my fenders, core support, inner fenders, and hood support. I cut the front frame horns 1/2" off of the steering box as well. When I tried to mount my grille to mock it up, the vertical supports that hold the grille together are hitting the frame rails. Did anyone else have this issue?
I actually like to cut the framerails back to just before the first bolt hole of the steering box. the steering box actually sticks out past the framerail this way. and not to make it more complicated, but I cut it at an angle or leave the lower part of the framerail longer so I have plenty of room for bumper brackets.

would that give you room for your grille uprights?
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Old 08-15-2017, 08:38 PM   #11
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Re: S10 Swap how to

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Originally Posted by joedoh View Post
I actually like to cut the framerails back to just before the first bolt hole of the steering box. the steering box actually sticks out past the framerail this way. and not to make it more complicated, but I cut it at an angle or leave the lower part of the framerail longer so I have plenty of room for bumper brackets.

would that give you room for your grille uprights?
Thanks guys, I'm sure it will give me plenty of room. It's only hitting by about an inch and a half. I'll take a better look at it on my next few days off. Working nights really puts a damper on projects.
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Old 08-15-2017, 10:19 PM   #12
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Skymangs, do I need to clearance my frame rail on the driver side for my exhaust to clear? I know nobody has mentioned this as I've read this post over multiple times over a year now. I have a 54 that I've used your cabstand design on a 94 LBRC chassis and I've installed an 04 6.0 LS with about 1" behind the passenger head to firewall for clearance and on the driver side the stock rear manifold looks like it's shooting straight for the frame. Am I missing something or will it clear?
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Old 02-23-2015, 02:13 PM   #13
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Re: S10 Swap how to

There are a lot of people that just use the original S10 motor-you MAY need to slide it back a bit, since the AD cabs sit rear of where the S10 cabs sit, which may cause a conflict with the fan and the radiator.

If you are going to use the registration of your '47 (i.e. DMV won't know that you have swapped power train and frame) then you do not need to worry about keeping the vehicle smog compliant. Depending upon the year of the S10, it may still need the front Oxygen Sensors to run the engine, but the rear ones (which provide the ECM information to regulate the emissions) will not be necessary.
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Old 02-23-2015, 02:33 PM   #14
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Hello;

47owner;

If you use a S-10 frame, it would be best to set the cab n fender on the frame n center the front wheels over the front fenders.
That will let you see just where to set you radiator at on the S-10 frame.
Ck out my build(Frankenstine) to see what you may run into if you dont do some thinking ahead of time.
Just try to give you a heads up on your project.
Also if you want to keep the running boards then make sure to read several project on the cab mounts.
Just want you to have a good time doing your project.

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Tim
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Old 02-23-2015, 07:15 PM   #15
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Re: S10 Swap how to

I've made your mounts, nice and easy from your plans.
Front(painted) rear
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Old 02-24-2015, 04:46 AM   #16
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Thanks for the advice. I will set the location of the wheels, hopefully I won't have to move the engine back.
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Old 03-17-2015, 05:10 PM   #17
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Hello, I'm at the point of making the cabs mounts, mine is a 53 chevy cab, would I be able to just add shims or is there a specific height that I need sorry for the question just any help would be appreciated marco
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Old 02-28-2015, 12:30 PM   #18
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Sorry all. For some reason I quit getting notifications for this thread. Always feel free to PM me if you dont get an answer to your questions in a timely manner!

Coldshot; mounts look great! I'm glad the instructions are easy to follow. I'm hoping to encourage more folks to build thier own, vs. Buying one size fits all (they just don't) kits. ROCK ON!

47owner; sure yo can use the S10 4.3L. You can even use the stock ECM and harness (as long as it doesn't have VATs (must be 93 and older). Look at Todd F's build for details. You will definately need to move the motor back between 5 and 6 inches. A good reference to remember is that the core support will basically sit directly above the cap on the power steering box. I always build cab mounts, tack them on, set the cab on, drop the front cab mount bolts in the holes, then nestle the driveline in leaving about 1.5 - 2 inches between the distributor and the firewall. I hope that helps.
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Old 02-28-2015, 12:32 PM   #19
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Oh, and on the smog... I always toss it, but being from CA, I would say it would be wise to check local laws before you do. You will need to keep the O2, coolant temp, and knock sensor if you are re-using an ECM throttle body or MPFI setup.

If you follow the instructions on this thread, you wheels will be centered in the wheel wells.
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:53 AM   #20
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Thanks for the information.
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:08 PM   #21
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Sure thing.
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:58 PM   #22
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Re: S10 Swap how to

First, a big thanks for all this info. I have been following your plan through, cab forward is all in place, steering, brakes, throttle all per your directions. My 350 runs like a top. Just installing a complete new wiring harness, where do you prefer to mount the battery? I would like to get it out of the engine compartment and not under the front passenger seat. I have not started on the bed yet so I'm totally flexible to a location out back. Any suggestions?
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:52 PM   #23
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Re: S10 Swap how to

I usually mount the battery behind the seat (far pass side on 47-50, and centered on 51-54. You will need 8ft of battery cable (I use red 4 gauge). Problem with under bed mounting it is access.
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:20 PM   #24
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Re: S10 Swap how to

I just finished bolting my cab up for the first time with your instruction. I'm using energy suspension poly mounts and its lined up perfect. But there's one part I know I read but need a little help in. The shims or spacers for the back cab mounts (I have a 51 cab) you say 1/2" delron spacers? Just not sure what or where to get those. Or can I just make 1/2" shims and put them between the mount and cab?
Thanks
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:21 AM   #25
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Re: S10 Swap how to

I found these on line
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2612770...lpid=82&chn=ps
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