Custom Chassis with canti setup

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by a squarecan

All I have to ask is; Is there anything you can't do?

I think I couldnt be more amazed after each set of pix you post, but everytime I find myself more amazed! Very nice work! Did you bend all your exhaust or are they pre-bent pieces? If you did it your self what gauge steel did you run?

Keith

Thanks! I use pre bent mandrels on all my exhaust systems. I just cut to fit. Maybe some day when I win the lottery I will get my own mandrel bender. All my exhaust tubing is 16ga.

Later
Jr

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by pharcydekm

LOOKS GOOD! My only question is why not run it straight and go through the frame up ahead rather than make that 90 turn to come through?

I needed to get the two sides together at the X pipe. X pipes I feel work a little better than just an H cross over. It also will look badass when it's finished. If you ride in a car that has a x over and one that doesen't have any x over you can tell the difference in the performance and it makes it a little quieter..

[a squarecan]

I didn't realize exhaust's were so beefy.

This leaves me with 2 questions, that is if you don't mind.

1. Where do you recommend getting your exhaust parts from if I guy was to try to build him self an exhaust set-up.

2. what kind of mufflers are thoughs? They look like a race style muffler.

Ok I lied I have 1 more question, does it take a brain sergain to build an exhaust system? I can weld just fine, but is there a certain science to specific bends and such?

Thanks
Keith

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by a squarecan

I didn't realize exhaust's were so beefy.

This leaves me with 2 questions, that is if you don't mind.

1. Where do you recommend getting your exhaust parts from if I guy was to try to build him self an exhaust set-up.

2. what kind of mufflers are thoughs? They look like a race style muffler.

Ok I lied I have 1 more question, does it take a brain sergain to build an exhaust system? I can weld just fine, but is there a certain science to specific bends and such?

Thanks
Keith

I usally get all of my mandrel's from summit. Make sure what you get are 16ga. Hooker sells mandrels but they are 18 or 20 ga. I wouldn't use anything other than 16ga. You can get straight pipe from your local muffler shop. Those mufflers are flowmaster hushpower mufflers. I've never used them before so I'm not sure how they sound. If your just building a system for a daily driver there's no science involved, but if your making a system for a race car that's a different story. I have a box full of bends that I just cut up and weld back together. Making headders is the only thing that is hard. Well not very hard but it takes time. A set of headders can take me a week to build depending on how involved they are.

Later
Jr

[XXL]

Originally Posted by valleycustom

Sorry for the delay on responding. I would change the 2x3 rails to 2x4. 2x3 box doesn't look right on a fullsize. It looks to small.

3/16" wall or 1/4" The latter sounds a bit overkill, but I thought I'd ping you first.

Also, do you think the cross tubes will work at 1.5"? Only other thing I am contemplating is to 2x4 box the tail end of the channel runs instead of that round tube. The rest would be round tube.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by XXL

3/16" wall or 1/4" The latter sounds a bit overkill, but I thought I'd ping you first.

Also, do you think the cross tubes will work at 1.5"? Only other thing I am contemplating is to 2x4 box the tail end of the channel runs instead of that round tube. The rest would be round tube.

I'd go with 3/16" wall box. 1.5" .156 wall would be the size tubing I would use on the cross tubes. I would just box the end of the frame with another 2x4 going across. Gives it a clean look and it's stronger. You might want to maybe cross some of those tubes to provide some side to side support for the frame rails. Your going to be cutting one of the factory x members that provides this.

Later
Jr

[a squarecan]

Thanks again Jr!

You build headers? I am having a hell of a time finding some block huggers headers that will work with the angle plugs on my dart heads. I am not in the market at this exact moment but do you think if the price was right you could possibly build a guy in my situation a set in a month or so?

Thanks
Keith

[valleycustom]

Well I almost have the exhaust system finished. Here are some pictures. Next I will be starting on the headders. YaY

[valleycustom]

A couple more.

[cornutz]

Hey Jr...

You have been busy, looks sweet! I hope to make it by real soon to check things out! been busy with the boy and all!

Keep on truckin as they say

Bill

[XXL]

Originally Posted by valleycustom

A couple more.

If, by chance, you lose a rear trans seal, you're going to know it right away thanks to the auto-smoke leak detector you've got under the tail shaft . Ordinarily I wouldn't be too concerned about placement, but with the canti setup, I'm guessing you've got a fair amount of travel. If the owner decides to drive around while playing with the ride height, you might just see a rear seal problem.

</just saying>

[bshelton]

My disrespectful comments have been removed.

[low4life1]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but there shouldnt be a problem with the rear seal because the carrier bearing takes all the stress off of that joint. The driveshaft near the tranny shouldnt move in or out or anything. it just rotates so there shouldnt be any excessive wear no matter what height or how much playing is done.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by low4life1

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but there shouldnt be a problem with the rear seal because the carrier bearing takes all the stress off of that joint. The driveshaft near the tranny shouldnt move in or out or anything. it just rotates so there shouldnt be any excessive wear no matter what height or how much playing is done.

Your right. We shouldn't have a issue with the rear seal. Even so if the seal did go out the system is going to be ceramic coated. This will cut the temp of the sytem down so much I'll be able to hold the pipes while the truck is driving down the street if I really wanted to, but that wouldn't be a good idea. LOL I thought the same thing but I really didn't have any another options. Once we decided to get the system jet coated I felt that there would be an issue with heat.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by XXL

If, by chance, you lose a rear trans seal, you're going to know it right away thanks to the auto-smoke leak detector you've got under the tail shaft . Ordinarily I wouldn't be too concerned about placement, but with the canti setup, I'm guessing you've got a fair amount of travel. If the owner decides to drive around while playing with the ride height, you might just see a rear seal problem.

</just saying>

Why are you trying to pee on my fire or exhaust? J/K Leaks are the #1 thing I hate the most. If it becomes an issue I will fix it.

[low4life1]

Hey, I was just looking back at the beginning of this thread, where you were talking about the 22's having 1/4" clearance on the hood when its down all the way. What size rubber were you using to get this measurement? I'm trying to decide if im gonna cut the rockers off my '69 and if I can fit 22's or of i need to stick with 20's. The roads here suck and I need a decent tire size on this thing, so if you have a tire size that's be sweet. Nice work by the way.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by low4life1

Hey, I was just looking back at the beginning of this thread, where you were talking about the 22's having 1/4" clearance on the hood when its down all the way. What size rubber were you using to get this measurement? I'm trying to decide if im gonna cut the rockers off my '69 and if I can fit 22's or of i need to stick with 20's. The roads here suck and I need a decent tire size on this thing, so if you have a tire size that's be sweet. Nice work by the way.

Thanks. I'm using a 285/35/22. You could get away with it if you get a 7.25 bs on a 10" rim. Your going to also have to make new hood hinges. But I also narrowed the front end so that would also make a difference. Your going to have issues with the tire sticking out above the bed if you shave the rockers with a 285. You can run 265/35/22 and fix that issue.

[low4life1]

The more I think about it I think im not gonna cut the rockers. I'm gonna use the factory front xmember off of an '85. I sectioned 2 inches out of the center of that width wise, so im hoping that will take care of the width problem. I dont want to deal with figuring out the geometry of the front suspension, so im just gonna bolt the xmember to the frame I'm goinna build. Oh, and I thinkim gonna try to use the reverse tilt hood hinges off of one of these late eighties, early nineties oldmobiles

[XXL]

Please keep your comments respectful of other forum members!

As for valleycustoms, it's obvious you do great work, and I'm guessing you didn't go ape over my question (or if you did, you managed to calm down before posting ). If you consider that there's a LOT of yolk movement in a vehicle with adjustable suspension, and your canti setup looks like you'll have mucho adjustment, my question/concern isn't at all unreasonable. One thing you might consider is simply moving the X back a few inches. In the event of a leak, you won't be completely in the clear, but at least it won't be directly below the seal. Or, as you mentioned... you can leave it as is and deal with it if you actually have a problem.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by XXL

As for valleycustoms, it's obvious you do great work, and I'm guessing you didn't go ape over my question (or if you did, you managed to calm down before posting ). If you consider that there's a LOT of yolk movement in a vehicle with adjustable suspension, and your canti setup looks like you'll have mucho adjustment, my question/concern isn't at all unreasonable. One thing you might consider is simply moving the X back a few inches. In the event of a leak, you won't be completely in the clear, but at least it won't be directly below the seal. Or, as you mentioned... you can leave it as is and deal with it if you actually have a problem.

LOL.. I'm cool... Now with the yolk issue. There isn't going to be any back and forth movement at the tailshaft because it's running a two piece driveline. All the movement will be located at the slip shaft before the center support bearing. I would never run a one piece driveline on something with that much lift. You would pull the driveline right out, and become a flying object while your driving down the road.

[bshelton]

My disrespectful comments have been removed.

[valleycustom]

They sure do.

[72MARIO]

Hey I dont think if you did loose a seal you would even have a problem back that far from the headders. Guys give him a break with that level of fab skills I am sure he would have though of that issue.

My tranny exploded and sprayed hot tranny fluid on my exhaust. Still Thanking God it did not catch fire as the headders were soaked with burnt fluid. Along with the 05 stang that got all the left over's that did not go up in smoke.

[N2TRUX]

Ok, now that I cleaned all that up we can go back to having some rational discussion about a really awesome suspension. valleycustom please keep the updates coming...

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

Hey I dont think if you did loose a seal you would even have a problem back that far from the headders. Guys give him a break with that level of fab skills I am sure he would have though of that issue.

My tranny exploded and sprayed hot tranny fluid on my exhaust. Still Thanking God it did not catch fire as the headders were soaked with burnt fluid. Along with the 05 stang that got all the left over's that did not go up in smoke.

Oh trust me I did think about that. The big issue is I have no more room to bring the x pipe down. I've build tons of exhausts and I haven't had one issue yet. The system is also going to be ceramic coated so the temp will be so low you can hold the pipe while the motor is running.