1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"

[dsraven]

if you plan to grind the welds smooth I would recommend a grinding disc, like a hard carborundum one, because the flap discs that lots of guys use, including myself lots, tend to remove metal from surrounding area when you get close to the parts being level.

question, why does your thread come up smaller than every other thread I keep track of?

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you plan to grind the welds smooth I would recommend a grinding disc, like a hard carborundum one, because the flap discs that lots of guys use, including myself lots, tend to remove metal from surrounding area when you get close to the parts being level.

question, why does your thread come up smaller than every other thread I keep track of?

I have the best luck with a 36 grit 3” roloc disc very very slow to get the metal smooth at the weld joint and then a fine grit one to smooth it up, then a file to get flat if possible. Speed has never really worked out for me in welding work.

[daveshilling]

Nearly done with this door, it's patched up and should be serviceable! I think the next door is getting a repop skin because I don't have the skills to use the primitive metal shaping tools I possess to make a suitable patch. If I had a mentor here and was taking metal shaping classes, maybe? But they'd get me on machines anyways, I'm over here using techniques from the 1920's or something (=

[slammed57]

very nice work!

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by slammed57

very nice work!

Thanks, I think it's not too bad for just saying to hell with it and giving it a try. I could stand to own and learn how to use a shrinking disc i bet... they seem like magic for sheet metal!

[Rickysnickers]

'20s or not, looks like you did really well!!!

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

Thanks, I think it's not too bad for just saying to hell with it and giving it a try. I could stand to own and learn how to use a shrinking disc i bet... they seem like magic for sheet metal!

your doing a fine job. each time you fabricate something you get a little better and gain more experience....as for that shrinking disc....I have one.it works, but the pros make it look easy, its something that takes time to get good at it.like everything else, its also not something you used on everything. but its another tool thats nice to have

[daveshilling]

'20s or not, looks like you did really well!!!

your doing a fine job. each time you fabricate something you get a little better and gain more experience....as for that shrinking disc....I have one.it works, but the pros make it look easy, its something that takes time to get good at it.like everything else, its also not something you used on everything. but its another tool thats nice to have

Thanks Gents! Learning as I go! I goofed around with a torch and wet rag today... that will take some learning too.

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by slammed57

...each time you fabricate something you get a little better and gain more experience..

Wanna bet??? HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

[OKGMC4]

You keep saying you don’t have the skills but the pics tell another story.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

You keep saying you don’t have the skills but the pics tell another story.

Thank you! I'm a good photographer I've also seen what guys here are capable of, and it blows my mind! They just slap in some sheet metal and it looks like its been there the entire time. I won't be satisfied unless I can complete with theastronaut.


I think I made a solid effort. Learned the consequences of not cutting away enough bad metal (some thin spots that are now inaccessible from the back and I don't want to cut another patch). Cut away the bad metal, everyone! You can't weld to it!

Fortunately I picked the right truck to practice on, and it looks no worse than the other panels with 60 years of truckin on em. Knowing how bad this all was before, I'm pleased with the outcome so far.

[G&R's57GMC]

Dave you’re doing great fab work keep at it .

BTW Happy New Year !

[dsraven]

if you have an old steam iron that puts out pretty good heat still you can try that like a shrinking disc. the nice thing about the shrinking disc compared to a torch is that it only heats up the high spots and a torch is also easy to overheat. heat and use a wet rag or sponge but only heat enough to make steam when you apply the rag. an iron will likely take longer but probably get the same result. it really comes down to getting the sheet metal work as smooth as possible first. hammer and dolly technique is a good skill to practice on with some old panels. there is a good little read called "the key to metal bumping", it's an old book but teaches some techniques of how to start removing a dent etc. there is an online pdf for free I think.

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

Nearly done with this door, it's patched up and should be serviceable! I think the next door is getting a repop skin because I don't have the skills to use the primitive metal shaping tools I possess to make a suitable patch. If I had a mentor here and was taking metal shaping classes, maybe? But they'd get me on machines anyways, I'm over here using techniques from the 1920's or something (=

you do good work!

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you have an old steam iron that puts out pretty good heat still you can try that like a shrinking disc. the nice thing about the shrinking disc compared to a torch is that it only heats up the high spots and a torch is also easy to overheat. heat and use a wet rag or sponge but only heat enough to make steam when you apply the rag. an iron will likely take longer but probably get the same result. it really comes down to getting the sheet metal work as smooth as possible first. hammer and dolly technique is a good skill to practice on with some old panels. there is a good little read called "the key to metal bumping", it's an old book but teaches some techniques of how to start removing a dent etc. there is an online pdf for free I think.

Oh yeah I need to do some reading for sure! Good suggestion

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by my56chevytruck

you do good work!

Thanks! Once I shot it in a matte primer to keep it from rusting, it definitely looked better

[daveshilling]

Switching gears for a bit just to keep things interesting. Wiring up power, relays, and PCM signal for my '94 T-Bird Junkyard fan.

I've had these bits for awhile but didn't get started on the electric fan wiring until I could decide how I wanted to connect the wires and what type of power/fuse block I could score from the yard. I landed on some delphi style weather pack connectors for the PCM fan control wires and key hot 12v power, with one plug for the low speed and one for the high speed.

I had to add these wires into my LS PCM and did so back when I was reworking my harness. I figured if I DIDN'T use electric fans, then these wires could just be tucked, but I definitely wouldn't want to go back and do this later!

I snagged this power distribution block from a junkyard, and it has 100A and 50A fuses, which is perfect, and if I want to drop the fuse amperage, just file away some metal on the sides! I'll be using this block to provide battery 12v to the fans as well at the headlights, and I'll be controlling the headlights via relay instead of having them pull 12V through the old headlight switch. Once its taped and loomed it should looks decent. I wish they didn't use all these bright primary colors in the relay wiring, but I didn't want to rebuild the whole thing so I'll just hide it.

I'm trying to retain the ability to remove the entire front clip, wiring and all, so I've got some larger connectors on order to create a harness of sorts for the front clip electrical just as they came from the factory.

[daveshilling]

While i wait for more electrical parts to arrive, I returned back to the drivers door area, as there are probably 20 more little jobs waiting for me until I have a functional door that can close securely.

Next up on the list was making a new captive nut so I can get hinges installed, test fit the door, and fine tune the fit the best I can without removing any more factory paint.

I used some mild steel for the nut, drilled and tapped for 7/16 fine thread, then sized it to fit into some square tubing. The tubing makes it easy to capture the nut after some cutting and bending. Then I drilled holes in the pocket face and tacked the nut in, making sure to center it first.

As you can see, precision wasn't really necessary here, as it's all hidden, plus the tubing prevents the twisting force far better than the factory sheet metal cage

[dsraven]

nice job. gotta do that to a few doors i have too.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

nice job. gotta do that to a few doors i have too.

Thanks, it's one of those chores that doesn't result in a cool new feature, but it must be done. The tubing made it very simple though! 10/10 would recommend.

[daveshilling]

After searching for YEARS, all around the country, I've finally located a front clip to replace what I have. I got to practice some metal work on mine, but this clip is just in better shape, and more importantly, its an excellent match!!

Even more awesome is that instead of having to ship it here from heaven-knows-where, it was only 2 hours from home.

I prefer the 59 emblems too, so that's an added bonus.

[G&R's57GMC]

Nice score Dave !

[dsraven]

looks to be in great shape. did you score the box too?

[dsraven]

was the seller planning a perimiter frame under it and gave up possibly?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

was the seller planning a perimiter frame under it and gave up possibly?

It was a long box with mis-matched fenders, so I left it there. If it were a perfect shortbox, then I'd have brought it home!

Actually, they are using the cab and frame to make a '57 instead so these were just unwanted leftover dropped on a ford car frame. Win/win, as I needed specifically what they did not! I wouldn't have said no to two nice doors though (=