1952 1 Ton Rebuild

[coralhead]

When you fill that seam use duraglass for the intial fill. Filling it all with Bondo, the joint will crack. While you have it apart go ahead and replace that inner cowel as well. Looks good.

[mechanixman]

Thanks for the tip John,
but I have come to a decision that I believe will save me time and money, and make me happier short term.
Here's the decision: If I can't smooth it out with a hammer and dolly,(or grind it down), then it was meant to be!

On to pictures.
I got a cut off wheel yesterday, and decided to finally work on the nast patch of floor..

I met a guy today who rips apart engines in his free time. for $100, I got a mallory unilite dist. , torker 2 intake, a rochester quadjet, short stack water pump with heater attachment. I found out those are actually pretty rare, gm only made them for 1 year.

[Truck Guy99]

Sounds sweet! Keep the wheels rollin!
Posted via Mobile Device

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by Truck Guy99

Sounds sweet! Keep the wheels rollin!
Posted via Mobile Device

Will do!

I'd call today a pretty successful day.
I went to my first swap meet. I've been to flea markets and such, but it was a real thrill to see almost all automotive parts.

I picked up a holley and some valve covers for $30 and an extra distributor I had, the cleaner and 2 filters were $10, the malory cap was $15, and a set of push rods was $10. I think it's great that in a matter of mere days, the motor has completely changed.

I pulled the old motor out, and traded it and a 5.3 LS block for 2 9ft bed sides, 2 sets of headers, a bumper/brushguard, and a couple pedal assemblies.
The guy I traded with told me trying to modify the original clutch pedal to work with the T5 is going to be a huge pain, so he insisted that I take them , just so I'll have a solution when I finally give up on the original pedals. (Like I'll give up! )

[65Ch3v3LL3]

Nice score on the bed sides. Glad to see you are continuing on. Keep up the good work.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by 65Ch3v3LL3

Nice score on the bed sides. Glad to see you are continuing on. Keep up the good work.

Thanks, i'll try my best.

I didn't want to weld on a 87 degree summer day, but I wanted to finish the truck even more, so I pulled out the fan and a couple water bottles and got to work.
I know it isn't pretty, but I figured it's pretty good considering I was basically sitting in the cab with my head between my knees.

I got that bar of stock for about $13. I got pretty lucky considering it fit perfectly in the slot right there. The original support was starting to deteriorate, and I figure the cab mount was apart pop straight up through the floor. When I was cutting the floor out, I found out I was right, the whole thing fell apart in my hands.

I cut it long enough for it to reach the door jamb, and I welded it to the bottom of the door hinge mount. I think that should be a solid anchor point.

What did you guys do to support your floors?

[coralhead]

Nick, Before you get going welding in steel you should look at how the original steel was inn the truck. I would look at getting that forward rocker panel straightened out first being that the lower lip of the outer cowel panel needs to be welded to that. The toe board and inner and outer cowels carry a lot of the weight of the cab. The piece you welded in will need to have a hole drilled through it for the mounting bolt.

Just take a look at some other pictures of trucks in that area before you weld yourself into a corner.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by coralhead

Just take a look at some other pictures of trucks in that area before you weld yourself into a corner.

Alright


I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on how to mount the motor. I just placed the stand in the frame just to see what the motor would look like in the frame.
But it seems like it's almost in the right place.

So what I've been taking into consideration:
- The harmonic balancer and pulley pretty close to the radiator (an inch or two for clearance)
- If I want it that close, I need the balancer and pulley to clear the crossmember (I'm thinking an inch or clearance is fine)
- With those clearances, it looks like the T-5's shift boot will almost match up perfectly with the the stock position.
- Again, with those clearances in mind, it looks like the headers will clear the frame, and I'll only have to worry about one of the collectors hitting the steering box

So from where it is now, it'll need to move a couple inches back, and a couple inches down.

I guess my two concerns are, Am I missing anything that would judge motor placement?
And, I feel like the motor is higher than it should be. Will it be alright?
I was planning on using that universal motor mount crossmember from LMC truck, but if this is how the motor will sit, the crossmember just won't work. I feel like the mounts will need to be pretty beefy to support the motor. What do you guys think?

[mknittle]

I would get it as low and as far back as possible. the more room in front the better.
Engine placement is a bit tougher with the cab off though.
I just went through that routine

[Denee007]

I was in a similar circumstance on my '59! I bought a mock up engine to make the job much easier. Putting an engine in where there are no mounts is a little mind boggling! THen getting the tilt of the engine is important as well. At least that's what was drilled into my head.
mock up engine: weighs about 35lbs.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by mknittle

I would get it as low and as far back as possible. the more room in front the better.

Yeah, but this way, my shifter, my firewall, my steering box, and my pedals don't need to be modified. Which is where I'm kinda conflicted.

Originally Posted by Denee007

I was in a similar circumstance on my '59! I bought a mock up engine to make the job much easier. mock up engine: weighs about 35lbs.

I do love those mock up motors, but I can't afford their price tag.

[mechanixman]

I've got floors!
I'm not quite finished, but I figured I'd get some pictures before I packed everything up.

I was garage sale hunting today, and I found what I've been looking for, for a while now. This cookbook rack will be my hidden stereo head unit.
If you pretend the board I'm holding is the bottom of the dash, that second piece will actually be the radio. The left side of the picture is the firewall, and the right side would be the seat/passengers.

So the first picture will be it hidden, out of sight under the dash. The second picture shows it pulled out towards the passenger, also conveniently angled so the passengers can see the screen/buttons more easily.

[mknittle]

That is a neat idea. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

[mknittle]

[QUOTE=mechanixman;6168031]Yeah, but this way, my shifter, my firewall, my steering box, and my pedals don't need to be modified. Which is where I'm kinda conflicted.

yeah, it is always a compromise. Often times it takes me longer to decide what I want to do than it does to do it.

[chevyboy73]

any updates?

[mechanixman]

Yeah, I just thought I'd try and wait out the server switch.

I tried going to a swap meet to sell of some parts, but there was a bigger meet about an hour north of where I as that stole all the thunder. Sadly I came out with more than with what i come in with, and I spent more than I sold.

Anyways, I got the Junior Grass Roots Engine Building Team together , and put the 327 together. The last few parts I needed (or so I thought) were the main bearings, and the piston rings, so I got them all installed.
But my cam bearings were a bit screwed up, and I remember the PO said he took out the bearings to have the block re honed, but he never got around to it. So that's the last step (hopefully) with the motor. Then we can get it running!

About a week ago, a friend mentioned I only had 2 weeks of summer left till senior year, and that kinda lit a fire under my ass.
So I got the passenger side kick and cowl panels installed, and I just finished the driver side cowl panel today.
The picture of the kickpanel was of this morning.

[mechanixman]

I just recently realized that I got this motor a few months back, and was blown away by what some paint, some parts, (and a little elbow grease) can do.

Unfortunately, my need for power and performance made that expression come true:

The cheapest things are often the most expensive.

A $75 motor has turned into a $300 monstrosity.

[mechanixman]

I went to a place called Jack's Auto Ranch. HUGE auto yard. (you stand in the middle of the yard, you can't see any of the borders of this place.
I called him up, and asked if he had any AD trucks lying around, he said he thought he had a couple and let me go into the yard. So my friend Kyle and I went in, quickly find out there aren't many paths around here, so our solution was to go car hopping. We managed to find 7 AD trucks, 51 and earlier, everything from 3100's to a 6400. If he lets me bring a camera I'll definitely take pictures next time.

Anyways, We were on the hunt for some hubcaps and a front passenger fender. We managed to find 3 hubcaps (2 chevy and an international) and a fender. We traded with the yard an extra head, an oil filter, and the old 6 volt generator (plus $20 on my end).


Today I restored 1 of the caps, and I think it cleaned up pretty well.

But now to the fender. I have a question for everyone:
What should I do with these fenders? both have their flaws, but hey both seem pretty solid.

Right now, I'm thinking cutting the flange off the new fender, then welding it to the original fender.

[Daze57]

you are still doin a great job young man !!!!

[mechanixman]

Thank you very much!
And if this wasn't going to be my first car/daily driver, I know I could do better. (taking it slow and all)

Do you guys have any suggestions on which funder I should use, where I should cut and splice them together?

[mechanixman]

I got the cab flipped on it's end for some finishing work. I wanted to just make sure my welds for the floor pan were strong enough.
When the cab was on the dolly, I didn't like the way the floor could flex so much, so I got some 1 inch square tubing, and got them ready to be welded on tomorrow.

[mechanixman]

Well it's been a great summer, I'm afraid to say school starts tomorrow.
I got my motor mounts in the mail sunday, and got to putting them in the truck. The only problem was the mounts were made for a boxed frame. No Problem. I went to my local metal (over)supply shop and picked this hefty piece of steel 4in X2in X11in and 1/4 inch thick.
I got the pieces welded in pretty well, but I convinced me dad to weld for the first time. And Damn! He's better than me! (with an arc welder at least)
By 9:15 we finally got the mounts all welded into place. In the next few days, I'll come out with a flap wheel on the grinder and clean up those welds a little bit.

Do you guys have any suggestions on trans mounts, setting the angle correctly (or easily..that's good too )


Thanks, Nick

[mechanixman]

The motor fits...sort of.
As you can see, the steering box is wayy too close to the head. What have you guys done about this problem? I'm thinking a new (collapsible) steering column and some sort of steering box.


-Nick

[av8tr33337]

Here is one option,

http://www.classicperform.com/power2.htm

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/02...id_axle_chevy/

You can buy kits that have all the linkage and other parts you need.
http://www.dreamershotrods.com/power...yandgmcpu.aspx

This puts a power steering box on the outside of the frame.

Some of the guys have used the original steering column and cut it off just passed the firewall, pressed a bearing in the bottom of the tube to control the end of the shaft. From there you can buy ujoints and D-Stock or go with the U joints from a Chevy Atsro or GMC Safari van column and scrounge up what you need from a C10 to make up the rest of the shaft.

Research it here with the thread search tool. Several have layed it all out in good "How to" fasion.

I'm sure I left something out but others will chime in.

[mechanixman]

Cool!
But are there any non power steering options?
I remember someone said they used a saginaw steerng box?