S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by 918733

Would you happen to know the specs on those artillery wheels and tires

Wheels are 15x8 rear, 15x7 front and spare. Rear tires and spare are 255/70r15, fronts are 225/70r15. The spare is on a 7 inch wheel to tuck it closer to the bed side.

[mr incredible]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I do have pics. https://www.facebook.com/OSGcustoms
I'll get a thread together on this '54 LS conversion by this weekend or so.

cool.. have a great thanks giving

[skymangs]

Thanks. You too!

[Garyhenrich]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Next is the placement of those cab stands.

Front cab stands - measure 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame (right behind front wheel). Scribe a vertical line. This will mark the rear edge of the front cab stand.

Rear cab stands - measure 10 1/2" from the rear of the 5/8" round frame hole, or 33 1/4" behind the rear edge of the front cab stand. Scribe a vertical line, this will be the front edge of your rear cab stand.

Note. If you are putting together a longbed (123" wb.) use the 33 1/4" measurement for your rear cab stand.

I have been trying to figure this out, and something must be different on my frame. It's a 84 s-10, 117", std cab, long bed. I keep coming up with 34 3/4", not the 33 1/4". Is it possible my older frame had the holes in different spots?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Garyhenrich

I have been trying to figure this out, and something must be different on my frame. It's a 84 s-10, 117", std cab, long bed. I keep coming up with 34 3/4", not the 33 1/4". Is it possible my older frame had the holes in different spots?

I have an 84 frame at the shop. I'll do some measuring after the holiday.

[BlueJeep]

54 looks great! Where did you find that flex coupling between the MAF and the intake tube(4" I assume)? Also what did you use for an A/C compressor?

[Garyhenrich]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I have an 84 frame at the shop. I'll do some measuring after the holiday.

Here is my math on my frame. 84 s10 std cab long bed 117"
Front edge of oval hole to rear edge of 5/8 hole, 43 1/4"
Add 2 1/8" from oval to rear of front stand, total 45 3/8"
Remove 10 1/2" to get to front edge of rear stand 34 7/8"

This should be 33 1/4", where did I go wrong.
I do understand, tack them on, put cab on, confirm engine space, make corrections as needed, pull cab, finish weld, but I would like to avoid any suprises. Great thread, thanks so much for the help.

[skymangs]

I just tacked the stands on that 84 frame tonight. I took some measurements to verify for you. Rear edge of front stands 2 1/8 forward of the edge of the oval hole. Front edge of rear stand 10 1/2 behind the 5/8" frame hole. From front edge of rear stand to rear edge of front stand is exactly 33 1/4". Not sure why you are getting a different measurement. This one is a long bed rev cab as well.

[skymangs]

The flex coupling is a stock piece from the donor Suburban. AC compressor is the stock Denso compressor from the suburban, in the stock low mount bracket. The truck uses a stock Silverado belt still.

[Garyhenrich]

Just getting ready to mount my engine and trany, is there any reason besides cost that you choose to use solid welded motor mounts rather than ones with poly or rubber?

[skymangs]

I use rubber mounts. 71 Camaro mounts are cheap, and they bolt to the engine. The uprights just replace the stock perches... no way I"d solid mount an engine, makes everything vibrate!

[Coldshot]

I've been surfing the s10 forum for a wile and a guy with a blazer got lengthened front control arms from Michigan metal works. They will cut them to what ever length you want. His cost him $1000 for the set, upper/lowers. I checked out there site and they have really good prices if anyone is looking for control arms. But my question now is what do you or have you done to widen the front track width to match the rear width? Besides spacers.
So far from searching a wile on this, Michigan metal works will be the way I go but would love to hear other people's plans.

[Garyhenrich]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I use rubber mounts. 71 Camaro mounts are cheap, and they bolt to the engine. The uprights just replace the stock perches... no way I"d solid mount an engine, makes everything vibrate!

Thanks, that makes sense to me now. I'll get the camero mounts and get the engine in this weekend.

I still have not been able to figure out why my measurements for the cab stands don't match yours. I have measured them a couple dozen times in different ways in case I'm reading your notes wrong and can't come up with 33 1/4. There must be something different with my holes, my frame certainly does not match the pictures you have posted, but I figured it was just a variation on the year. I'll just need to put the cab on and make sure there right before welding. Thx again!

[Garyhenrich]

I got this great message today:
I think I figured out your Issue with the cab stand measurements. I am sitting here looking at my bare frame right now. Feel free to give me a call and I will explain what I think is going on.
Curt

So I called Curt on the phone, we stood at our frames and sure enough my frame does not have the 5/8" hole in the same place as his. Either way, the 33 1/4" between the two cab stands is correct, but not everyone has the rear 5/8" hole. Thanks Curt, I hope to have my fully restored cab on my s-10 chassis by Christmas.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Garyhenrich

I got this great message today:
I think I figured out your Issue with the cab stand measurements. I am sitting here looking at my bare frame right now. Feel free to give me a call and I will explain what I think is going on.
Curt

So I called Curt on the phone, we stood at our frames and sure enough my frame does not have the 5/8" hole in the same place as his. Either way, the 33 1/4" between the two cab stands is correct, but not everyone has the rear 5/8" hole. Thanks Curt, I hope to have my fully restored cab on my s-10 chassis by Christmas.

Glad you solved the false measurement issue. I've never seen a frame that was any different (and I've seen quite a few). Now I'll be double checking each frame. That would be exactly the reason I tack the mounts in place until I've verified that the cab fits.

[skymangs]

Sorry coldshot. I use spacers. A grand for control arms is out of most of my customers budgets. I've built quite a few, and have been driving the 48 for over 2 years. No problems yet.

[Garyhenrich]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Glad you solved the false measurement issue. I've never seen a frame that was any different (and I've seen quite a few). Now I'll be double checking each frame. That would be exactly the reason I tack the mounts in place until I've verified that the cab fits.

My frame does not have the 5/8" hole 10 1/2" forward of the rear cab mount location, because of that, in error I used a 5/8" hole about 12" REAR of the rear cab mount location and measured forward. All good now, thanks for a great thread!

[Coldshot]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Sorry coldshot. I use spacers. A grand for control arms is out of most of my customers budgets. I've built quite a few, and have been driving the 48 for over 2 years. No problems yet.

What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Coldshot

What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.

I use 2 inch spacers on most builds. My kids truck has 1.25" spacers. Thanks for the info. Always good to have options!

[lower50's]

Great write up! It will help get more of these old trucks on the road.
I love the steering column part. Im almost ready to set mine up, but my motor is wider than a LS. How do you get the steering shaft around the motor do you have a pic?

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by Coldshot

What size spacer do you use? I'm planning to autocross the day lights out of mine so that's why I'm looking at that option. Stock lower control arms need to be beefed up to use coilovers or they blow threw the bottom.
Thanks, thought you might be interested in the info in case one of your customers wants to go that way.

I used D.O.M. tubular A arms made for the s-10 they are real nice and come with moog ball joints

http://cdn.airassisted.ca/Bolt-in-Ai...r-Control-Arms

Not the cheapest but really strong!!

[Coldshot]

Same price as what I'm looking at so not to bad for the full set. If I buy arms tho I want to eliminate the spacers if I can.
I love your build, I can see why you want the super strong arms.

[skymangs]

Lower50's; Thank you. I use a double Borgeson joint set up if the header interferes with steering shaft alignment. With a double setup you will need to capture the shaft near the second joint to keep it from binding. Look at "Rico F. '54 LS build" I have pics in that thread.

[lower50's]

Thanks Skymangs. That looks good I'll have to set something like that up.

[skymangs]

Thanks. Pm me if you run into any problems.