Project Penicillin~ 68 crewcab build up!

[extd56]

Does the 4TH door open? Did the build include using a Suburban? Is it a long bed or short? It looks like a short bed to me but I have been wrong before. What frame are you using and what engine and trans? I am getting ready to do some more work on the crew cab just my daughter having kids makes it tough.

[rancid]

Originally Posted by 72crew

Here ya go, here is a pic of mine in case you need some motivation...lol......

how about some ifo and build up pics.

[classicchev]

unfrickenbeleivable. How much to have a cab done in primer???????

[red71cheyenne]

Keep it up Kevin! And what is the body wax you are talking about shooting in the holes? Does it prevent rust? Thanks, Jeff.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by red71cheyenne

Keep it up Kevin! And what is the body wax you are talking about shooting in the holes? Does it prevent rust? Thanks, Jeff.

It is a product Eastwood sells (or re sells) and sounds like it is worth trying. I have not tryied it wet but in some of those hard to get at places I want to give it a try. The factory did not coat or prime alot of areas on these trucks and you can see how that has worked out

https://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...emType=PRODUCT

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Lippyp]

I've been using anti rust wax for years here in the UK where we know a thing or two about rust. There are several products on the market here, probably the best known is a product called Waxoyl made by the same company that make Hammerite paint, the second best known is called Dinitrol, who have a variety of different products depending on what you're doing with them and theres a new pretender from a company called Bilt-Hamber. I've used their water based deruster which is just magic, dissolve some non toxic non corrosive powder in warm water, soak the part for 24 hours and the rust all is dissolved away. They do a cavity wax that I'm going to try out when I've done the rockers on my truck. I'm also going to do the inside of the cab corners with it. The wax never quite sets so it's self healing, i.e. you get a small scratch in it and it will close up over it, just seals out water and oxygen from the steel.

These are some steel shutters from my french house that I derusted in Bilt-Hambers Deox-c, they were very heavily corroded, a quick blast over with a wire wheel in a grinder and then a 24 hour soak. rh is before middle after and the end one painted.

[Rokcrln]

Could you find any links to the different products you listed! And nice rock wall in the back ground!! With the body wax what do you use to apply? East wood has a kit that is kind of like a suction sprayer. It sucks the product out of the container and shoots it in thru a rod of flexable hose that I think will make it great for getting up into the windshield area!

Kevin
LFD Inc

[truckdude239]

looking good dude

[Lippyp]

Waxoyl's website is here http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/waxoyl.htm
Dinitrol is here http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/
Bilt-Hamber is here http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/shoppingbasket.php

Waxoyl comes in cans that can be applied with either a simple pastic pump and tube with a nozzle that fits straight on the gallon cans or it can be applied using a compressor powered gun, same with Dinitrol, the Bilthamber Dynax wax comes in a big aerosol with a built in tube. All of them will benefit from being stood in a bucket of hot water for a while to make sure the wax is as runny as possible, ideally you want a warm day to apply it on so the wax will flow into the nooks and crannys and joints, however do it out of direct sunlight, if a panel is too hot it'll just slide right off! Once it's set then its not a problem. It's a horrible messy job though, drive the vehicle onto a sheet of plastic that you can throw away afterwards, wear some really old clothes and a hat and just be prepared to pump a couple of gallons into all the box sections, inside panels and doors etc (drill holes if neccesary and then plug with little plastic plugs). I know waxoyl and Dinitrol also do an underseal type product in black or clear for use on the underside of the vehicle too.

[Rokcrln]

Lippyp~ Thanks I will check into this stuff. I am sure it is messy but well worth doing if you want to slow/stop the rust in these trucks. As for applying it this is one of the main reasons I designed the Tip & Flip dolly. My first cab was so bad (under a great paint job) that their was no saving it and I told my self I would not waist my time building one if I can not stop this from happening.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Long Roof]

Ttt

[Rokcrln]

First off the roof was already done when it came to me. It looks likew they cut it off about 1.5" up from the rain gutter and slid the upper section down over the lower and welded it their. Not what I would have done but it is ok all the same.

As far as the VIN plate it was inspected by the proper people and documentation was taken for verifacation. I the vin plate will go back in but in the fourth door jamb again by the proper authoritys. Not an easy task but when you know people and spend the time asking before you just do it, it seems to help. Good luck with state!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[72armyswbtruck]

Keep up the great work, man I lvoe this build thread

[Rokcrln]

The door hinges are ready so I will be setting door gaps and starting on the pass side for rust repair soon. In the mean time I snuck a 2wd blazer project into the shop for a few days of work. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=194823 need to brake things up now and then

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[extd56]

Here is a picture of the door hinges that were bead blasted and new pins installed. If we get a warm day I can primer them.

[tlcruiser]

Well it's good to hear that someone has thought about how to make a project legal.

I don't know how many times I have tried to tell people that they need to start by talking with DOT officers. Doing this in the beginning can save a lot of time & money. Been there done that.

Heck they can be your friend or they can be your enemy, I want them on my side.

Have you noticed that any of the newer 73-92 suburbans & crew cabs offer very similar rear door hinges?

'72 Chevy Cheynne L/B 1/2 ton (daily driver)
'72 Chevy C/10 s/b, 1/2 ton (for sale)
'72 Chevy Custom Deluxe 'burb, 3/4 ton
'72 Chevy Cheynne 'burb, 1/2 ton (soon to be crew'd)
'70 Chevy C/10, 1 ton, flat bed (shop truck)
'72 Chevy Custom Deluxe 3/4 ton l/b (project)
'66 Toyota Landcruiser
'64 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)
'67 chevy 3/4 ton, 4X4 l/b not running (for sale)
many 69-72 parts trucks
'55 2 ton dump body grain truck

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by tlcruiser

Have you noticed that any of the newer 73-92 suburbans & crew cabs offer very similar rear door hinges?

Yes I have but the differance in door thickness creates porblems in getting the door to swing full open. Or you can get it to swing full open but your dor gaps are on the wide side. We just used stock 3rd door hinges and rebuilt them backwards! Hinge pin in from the bottom and then just mount it upside down Plus when this is finished we are going for a completly stock (as stock as it would have been) look with the conversion.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[wibilly]

whats up with the grill in that thing. otherwise a great looking truck

[extd56]

It looks like a 4 door in the picture with the rear door handle on the drivers side until you read the details of the truck. I wonder what frame he used or maybe used 2 frames to build it, he did not say in his description.

[Canadian694x4]

From the pictures it looks like they just lengthened the undercab portion on the frame with straight C channel steel?

[smbrouss70]

anybody got a link to that one?

[extd56]

Here ya go

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[smbrouss70]

Thanks!

[rauto13]

any updates? Please???

[Long Roof]

ttt