Shucks First Build

[Cape Codder]

What you have is better than acrylic enamel and is a good paint to use. It should hold up well but will be harder to paint than base /clear. The trouble is in getting the metallic to look even any kind of sag will show big time or it can look mottled if not sprayed evenly. Back before base /clear systems after painting metallic colors we could spray a light for of paint from a few feet away to even out any metallic problems but those paints were so slow drying it would melt in and not look dry. Sanding and buffing single stage metallics can also cause trouble as you are going into color coats not just polishing clear. If they will either exchange for what you asked for or at least sell at cost I would go for the base /clear. How clear were you in asking for base /clear is the question?

[Shucks]

I asked for a basecoat clearcoat system with hardner and reducer, maybe I'm wrong with what I had asked but I ended up getting single stage. I called the store and they are accepting a return so since my color is metallic I will feel more comfortable having a basecoat and a clearcoat.

[Shucks]

So according to my receipt I ordered the right stuff just received it wrong. Which is good, but another $200 for clear and high build primer I forgot... anyway enough with drama.

[Cape Codder]

If it makes you feel any better I paid $500.00 for a gallon of base for my truck not counting primers or clear. Welcome to what we have to pay in my business every day. It cost me at least $100.00 to paint a bumper cover these days , more if red.

[Shucks]

I couldn't let myself spend that much on paint... that's nuts!

Well I'm glad I went back and got the two stage. Much more familiar painting like this.


Clear coat

[Cape Codder]

Inside of panels usually gets one coat of clear but also a shot of paint down inside the panels if it is my own. When I have a panel off one of my own vehicles I take left over paint from other jobs and spray inside till it comes out between the welds and out the drain holes. Then use the correct color for painting the inside that shows.

Glad to see you have the paint situation squared away it is looking good so far.

[Shucks]

Minor update.
Degreased the whole cab and got the windows out.



And so far these fenders absolutely suck to remove

On the other hand, these dried nicely.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by Shucks

Minor update.
Degreased the whole cab and got the windows out.



And so far these fenders absolutely suck to remove

On the other hand, these dried nicely.

[Cape Codder]

Looking good , It would suck trying to paint the bed with the fenders on too so get them off. Do you have access to am impact driver. It is a hand held thing you put your bit in engage the screw twist and wack it with a hammer. If you are hitting it hard enough you will probably wack your hand a time or two but they do pretty good at breaking them free. If not soak with penetrent and an impact gun with the pressure turned back a bit

[Shucks]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Looking good , It would suck trying to paint the bed with the fenders on too so get them off. Do you have access to am impact driver. It is a hand held thing you put your bit in engage the screw twist and wack it with a hammer. If you are hitting it hard enough you will probably wack your hand a time or two but they do pretty good at breaking them free. If not soak with penetrent and an impact gun with the pressure turned back a bit

I have to have these fenders off, they're rotted inside and they have fuel doors, which LMC makes them without fuel doors, so I'll just go get new ones. What I may end up doing is drilling out just passed the sheet metal and taking a chisel to the head of the bolt, no need to save the fenders.

[Cape Codder]

If tossing the fenders just cut the fender off close to the bedside,heat the welded in nut with a torch and the bolts will come out easy.

[Shucks]

Full day of sanding, bondo, sanding, welding, and sanding.





Snagged a good door to replace that p.o.s aftermarket door I thought was good.

[Shucks]

[Cape Codder]

Making good progress. Who's shop is that ? nice a spacious

[Shucks]

Lord knows I wish I could say it's mine... it's my uncles. It has a little spare room I probably should move into considering how much time I spend there. Nice and heated as well.
This is his 1980 he and his son did a while ago just never finished.

[Shucks]

Anyone done this tire and wheel package? The rear backspacing seems much but I'm curious if anyone thinks these would work on my stepside

[aggie91]

Based on the wheels I used on the '82 stepside I built a few years ago, I would find some 1/2" spacers to run that rear wheel with the 5.75" back spacing. We had a 5.5" BS and used a 1/4" spacer and pushed in the inner bed side about 1/4". We ran a 315/35-20 tire in the rear, so a 295/40-20 tire would look good too and give you about 10mm more clearance on the inside.

Use a spacer like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-1-2-Che...FWO6yD&vxp=mtr

You might need to get longer wheel studs to make up for the spacer. We used a Dorman replacement stud that was longer. I will see if I can find the one we used.

Look at the pic in my "Sunburn" thread in my signature.

[Shucks]

Cool, thanks for the links. I dig those wheels you and Korbin put on that truck, that thread is also a big inspiration, you guys did a fantastic job on it. Looks like mine will be looking really close to how his is!

[Shucks]

Just keep on keepin on... endless work.

Bye bye holes

[Shucks]

Finally got this taken care of...

Can you see why these needed to be removed?

Both sides are done, only pic I have.

[Shucks]

I feel like I should have a huge update since I've got hours and hours in this body work but it sure doesn't show it. I had a professional painter come out and take a look and his biggest thing he told me was I wasn't spreading my filler past the damage or the weld wide enough. Sure I covered the dent but it didn't flow into the body correctly. So basically I have to start again... I've probably got my over 100 hours in it and I can hardly tell it...Bummer

[Cape Codder]

Effort = Results A sign I saw on the wall in Roger Penski's office when he did a TV interview. Keep at it you will get better as you go.

[Nick_R_23]

That's how you learn, looks great so far though!

[N2TRUX]

You dont have to start over, you have to finish up what you started. Some of those areas could be improved with a liberal dosage of filler primer.

[aggie91]

I see a lot of time and work put into it so far. Body work is one of the items that takes the longest time to see actual results. Spending the time on prep and body work will show in the final paint job. The actual color spraying is only about 5-10% for the finished job.

One suggestion that I could make based on what your pro told you. Don't "start over". I would spray a couple of coats of a high build primer such as Slick Sand, apply a light coat of a contrasting primer color or guide coat. Block it out with a long board and 180 grit paper. The guide coat will show you the "low" spots and the "high" spots will be all the way thru the slick sand.

This will show you where to apply a light weight feathering filler to the low spots and repeat the process. Take a look at the last few pages of this thread, it is a great source of pics of the process I just described:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=386569


You are doing a good job, don't give up hope!