norms 55 chevy pu build

[washington blue]

Got the rear done as far as the fluid lines go, now I have to decide how far forward to run the line forward to a joint. I'm thinking one continuous line would be kinda long and hard to put in from the rear hose to the master cyl.

[dsraven]

you can always use 2 lengths with a connector in the middle. some preflared lines are readily available at the parts stores in different lengths. they should have a union as well. a good tube bender is an asset. some lines will bend easier than others, different alloys, but that also means they will kink easier too. grab some vacuum plugs to cap the ends of the lines so you don't get junk in the lines as you run then in and out of the frame as you bend them up to fit. the frames are fairly straight compared to newer vehicles so once you get past the trans cross member and the area behind the cab it should be easier going. if getting a bender get one for your size of tubing, not a universal fit one, they tend to kink the lines. I have a couple different ones but always come back to one like this

https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalo...gaAvk7EALw_wcB

a pair of these pliers is also handy for a tight bend into, say, a wheel cylinder

https://www.harborfreight.com/tube-b...ers-95782.html

I find this style tends to kink because they don't fit the diameter of the line well

https://www.amazon.com/WennoW-Bender.../dp/B06XPTLPWD

[washington blue]

Thanks, the compound bender looks very similar to what I have. I like it and I like to put a little oil on the line so it seems to slide better when I bend it. I have a bunch of lines to do because my daughters car needs new ones before she goes back to college whenever that will be who knows. South Dakota salt has really rusted them up. I have not seen the plier before and I may have to look into that since there are tight turns in the engine compartment on her car.

[washington blue]

Made my first flairs today, I have this new brake line, they said it is easier it work with. they were right, I almost feel guilty or like I forgot something. this stuff is really easy to make double flairs with. It is also really easy to bend. I like to put some oil on the line when I bend and when I make my double flairs and this stuff makes the double flairs just perfectly. this copper colored line is about 2 bucks a foot.

[washington blue]

Ran my fluid line forward to about where the Trans. mount will go so I don't think I will have to remove this line in the future. I also got my E brake cables mounted and cut to fit. I had to shorten the spring that was on the Explorer rear. When the cab is on I can finish up to the pedal under the dash.

[Jason 56]

That nicopp line is great stuff. Won’t rust n is also very corrosion resistant.

[washington blue]

Update time, got all my crops in this spring early and I thought for sure I'd be on the 55 all summer, but... Somehow I spent a couple months finishing the inside of my garage.

[washington blue]

then I spent a couple months rebuilding my combine, replacing everything that showed wear. there were times that it was too hot to work since we had an above average hot dry summer.
Now I am all caught up and going to start on the 55 again, lots of decisions to make about what to do first.

[washington blue]

Did a little repair on the stock seat, don't know if the upholsterer will approve or not but I wanted something I can sit on to check steering column location.

[washington blue]

Finished the E brake I started last spring. I must say the 80 chevy hanging pedal works like it was made for that spot. I shortened the release handle by 2 and 1/4 inches and it looks natural there. I did not tighten the allen screws yet, that can be done after I paint it and re-assemble.

[washington blue]

So now tomorrow I have to decide what to do first, second, third, and so on. I have to mount the engine & trans, I don't know if the exhaust manifolds from a 05 will fit my 80 Camaro subframe, they are kinda wide. Get a steering column and mount it, get and mount power brake master cyl., get and mount gas tank. I know the tank will go behind the rear end. POL inc. has aluminum tanks that hold 19 gal. and I can get the electric pump and gauge sending unit with it for about $1000 bucks. I'll need a wood kit and stainless strips for that, also a rear bumper and tail-lights. I am planning to restore the dash to total stock from the hacked up thing I have now so I have to decide where I can get a repro dash. So many decisions, jeez. Later, thanks for looking, Norm

[joedoh]

upholsterers complain about everything. after getting chewed out about the condition of a seat brought to him for new covers, I asked him why he was even in this business, that if he wanted perfection he should move to where they built new cars and be happy slapping covers on brand new stuff.

GM engineering, I have found, likes to look back when looking forward. better than ford, which you have to check the serial portion of the VIN to get the right part sometimes. my experience with chevy is they built one assembly and use it everywhere they can.


looking good!

[washington blue]

Took the cab off and hung the engine & trans over the frame and I have all the fitment problems I'm sure others have had. Power steering pump is in the way- - AC pump is in the way- - if they are moved I can lower the engine but then the oil pan is too low - - crossmember behind the trans will hit the driveshaft. So now research time. Probably some of you guys reading this have dealt with these problems, 80 Camaro subframe LS 5.3 from a 05 pickup and making it fit. If I could find someone's build with pics. that would be a huge help. If anyone chimes in with info, thanks ahead.

[washington blue]

Here's some pics of my mess.

[washington blue]

Obviously the gold mounts on the crossmember will not work so I will have to make mounts once everything else is worked out.

[dsraven]

On my 57 with truck LS engine I used a camaro pan, pick up, baffle and dipstick which is not as deep as a truck pan. Camaro exh manifolds also fit between the frame rails as well where the truck ones are too wide. Headers also work unless you want stock parts.

[washington blue]

Thanks DS, I have spent most of the day today doing research and you are right my exhaust is too wide. I really don't know what is the best manifold to use. I wonder if my wife would mind if I took them off of her 2010 Camaro,lol. I have also learned my motor mounts may be on wrong. I believe I may have bolted them on too far rearward. what I have learned is the ac compressor will have to be relocated higher and my mounts bolt further forward. No instructions came with the mounts. In the pics the engine mounts are rear of the crossmember mounts and I think that is why. I have learned today that I have several options with oil pans since the LS thing is so common, not sure what is the best to use tho.

[dsraven]

If you have some time google pirate 4x4 ls primer. It has a good write up on the engines and differences (it's a 2 or 3 part thing if I remember correctly) and they also talk oil pans, with pics, and different sensors etc. also their home page has a bunch of other write ups on LS cooling systems and other technical stuff that can be related to more than just 4x4'S.

[dsraven]

Another decent site is LS1tech.com. they have a classifieds section if you wanted to check pricing on some used stuff to get you going cheaper. On my 57 I used exh manifolds from an 01 camaro I think. They fit fine inside the frame and left room for steering linkage. I set my engine down low and rear ward. I did a firewall cut to get the engine far enough back so I would have room in front for an electric fan on the back side of the rad.Ill see if I can dig up some pics. My motor mounts were also camaro LS with urethane inserts. I connected the dots to the frame with some home built brackets. Again, pics pending.

[dsraven]

Another informative site. Google this title.

LS SWAP GUIDE BY LSX INNOVATIONS

[dsraven]

Some wiring info
https://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm

[washington blue]

Wow, thanks lots, I also found on this forum a few minutes ago while browsing through your threads, LSx swaps. I have to admit that the wiring part scares the heck out of me. Luckily tho I have a friend who is electrically gifted who lets me bend his ear.

[dsraven]

You could also google
Opinions on best option: truck manifolds are too big on 5.3 LS
And pick the hotrodders site. They talk about exhaust manifolds, headers etc. Something that some guys do is buy a set of ford 302 headers, cut off the flanges and buy some flanges for the LS to weld on. Apparently the ford runs the same exh pirt spacing. Didn't know that one till tonight.

[dsraven]

Another informative site is
lsenginediy.com
They have many topics including oil pan choosing and wiring. My oil pan was the 99-01 era I believe. It fit well. I used a mustangIII IFS in mine and set the engine low enough so clearance from pulley to power steering rack was minimal.

[dsraven]

sorry, I forgot you are running a camaro front clip. in that case, can you run the camaro ls swap engine mount adapters, exhaust components etc for a corresponding ls swap into the year of camaro that your front clip donor vehicle was? will that place the engine too far forward or back? if you could do that then the exhaust etc could be sourced for that camaro swap since the parts would have to fit around the donor vehicle frame and suspension. maybe that is what you have done but ran into engine location issues?
if it doesn't work, simply bolt on some engine mounts to the factory locations on the block, no adapters, then mock up engine/trans between the frame rails where they need to be, block them well in place after doing your driveline angles, them make up some new frame mounts to accept the engine mounts at their new location or make up some adapter plates to move the engine mounts to their new required location so they match up with the frame mounts. stiff cardboard makes a good template material. thin plywwod is also good and flexes less. sometimes I will template with cardboard but then fab a set of mock up parts from plywood of the same thickness as the steel I want to use when done. that way there is no room for cardboard flex and it also considers the thickness of the material. follow?