1968

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

You are definately making the right decision on keeping the 68 front clip, one of the "upgrades" im going to be doing to mine that you might consider is upgrading to the 69-72 wiring harness so you have side marker lights so people can see you at night.
When it comes to safety non-lighted reflectors just don't cut it, plus on top of that side markers that don't light up seem silly to me.
There is probably a guy around the forums here you could trade a 67-68 for a 69-72 harness if you don't have one or can't get one localy.
Also I noticed you did a ton of cutting all at once and partialy removed the floor and the Inner rockers simultaniously and didn't weld in any braces before hand.
The cab geometry (Square) can potentialy change on you with that much metal removed at once.
Things that can happen are the cab corners can move in or out and up and down, it can "twist", it can do all kinds of crazy things that you would have to put it on a frame table to correct.
Be very careful that your fit and fair doesn't go out of wack between the "A" and "B" pilar on both sides or your doors won't fit right and you will have a nightmare on your hands because you will have to cut it all back out and start over, don't say I didn't warn you it's very important that you get this right.
I realize you didn't know that because you aren't a body or frame man which is why im telling you.
I would have told you earlier but I didn't know you were going to do that, and I hate to worry you but it's far better you know this now rather than later when you find out the geometry is out of wack.
I've got my fingers crossed that it's still good.
Keep on truckin!

I have not purchased the wiring harness yet. But indeed I will up grade to the 69/72

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by gdavis

I have not purchased the wiring harness yet. But indeed I will up grade to the 69/72

I had a friend to come over and we measured the door openings on his truck and they were 35 inch and we measured mine and both door were 35 to the letter. I hope they stay that way. keep your fingers crossed

[gdavis]

Today I blasted the roof of the cab and primed. There was two 3/8 inch holes drilled in the roof. It looked like some one had two C B or something. I cut a small piece metal and welded them in and they come out nicely. I wish all my welds would come out that way. You can't even see where they were. I know that is what they supposed to do.

[gdavis]

On the drivers side door there a re a lot of rust out places . what is the best way to fix this.I have trouble welding up side down.

[gdavis]

Today i blasted the fire wall and called it a day. Pic will follow Monday.

[Bomp]

In situations of welding in difficult places I start out just a tack weld at a time. Takes a lot longer but ends up being easier. As for the measurements of your year of cab I don't know specifically. Not sure if an assembly manual would have that information. Since I stretched my cab I basically used the A pillar and front cab roof line and the door to move and make (what I felt) was an acceptable gap between panels.
You may want to just tack panels into place before committing to a full out welded in place to test fit your doors and rockers.
Your doing great so far. Just take an extra moment to check then go back to your 110 mph. Your flyin through this build

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

In situations of welding in difficult places I start out just a tack weld at a time. Takes a lot longer but ends up being easier. As for the measurements of your year of cab I don't know specifically. Not sure if an assembly manual would have that information. Since I stretched my cab I basically used the A pillar and front cab roof line and the door to move and make (what I felt) was an acceptable gap between panels.
You may want to just tack panels into place before committing to a full out welded in place to test fit your doors and rockers.
Your doing great so far. Just take an extra moment to check then go back to your 110 mph. Your flyin through this build

I tried the welding tip that you said. And it seams to work tell you more tomorrow.

[Bomp]

Really good to hear the cab is staying still. Makes me wish I had more day light. Working 4am-4:30 and not getting home til 5:30 cuts into working on the truck.
Your doing great work!

[jonny..2008]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Really good to hear the cab is staying still. Makes me wish I had more day light. Working 4am-4:30 and not getting home til 5:30 cuts into working on the truck.
Your doing great work!

i feel you on this. just got home (its 7 pm here). still have to eat. then i better get in the driveway and get to work. because as great as it is, the truck just wont seem to fix itself.....

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Really good to hear the cab is staying still. Makes me wish I had more day light. Working 4am-4:30 and not getting home til 5:30 cuts into working on the truck.
Your doing great work!

I went over to a friend's house and got the orginal door that come off the cab. But My spacers that go between the hinge and the truck don;t line up. is there something i am doing wrong. I started to get upset so i took a break. I did not get to work to much on the truck today. A lot of runing around had to be done.
But I did manage to prime the front of the truck and sanded the hood.

[gdavis]

Today i cleaned up my work area. Boy was it in a mess. Tomorrow I will finish the front of the crowl cab. blasting I mean. I will post pictures tomorrow. I also will be trying to patch drivers side damage under the rain gutter. wish me luck. I never had luck welding up side down. My welds look like it came out of a tube when I weld up side down.

[gdavis]

Today I finshed blasting the Lower part of the fire wall. And blasted the inside of the cab. and primed the inside of the cab. Tomorrow I will install the short hump. My old one was for a standard shift transmission. I did not like the hole in the hump and it was too tall for me. (Looks) I also bondo glass the hood. I am going to use this one until I find one that had no repairs or buy one. Which ever comes first. The first Of the year I will be going to St. Petersburg, Fl. There is a company that has the hood, doors,front floor pan and rear floor pan for the drivers side. This way i will not have to pay shipping. Shipping of this much will be as much or more than the asking price.

[jonny..2008]

good progress for you. ill measure my cab for you if you need me to. pm me.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

good progress for you. ill measure my cab for you if you need me to. pm me.

Thanks I got the measurements from a friend and his was 35 so I am on the mark. But thanks for asking.

[gdavis]

Today I installed the automatic transmission hump and wire wheeled and grind the welds and primed it. Tomorrow I hope to tackle the rust under the rain gutter on the driver side door.

[gdavis]

Also I got the rubber around the vent window today. A friend came by today and he needed a turn signal switch, but had none. So as we were looking thru his truck he found the rubbers and gave them to me. It saved me a few dollars.
tomorrow I will go and get the doors from him that came off the cab and see how far off I am from 35 inches
I also primed the crowl

[gdavis]

more pic. also primed the inside of cab roof.

[gdavis]

today I did not tackle the rust under the rain gutter. I will tomorrow.

[gdavis]

Is there any difference between the ball joints in a 68 drum to a 72 disk brakes.
I hope to get my new 72 frame over here this week. I am going to use parts off the 72 to make my truck have disk brakes . So I hope the ball joints are the same. Someone said that they think the ball joints are a little longer for disk brakes.

[Bomp]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Is there any difference between the ball joints in a 68 drum to a 72 disk brakes.
I hope to get my new 72 frame over here this week. I am going to use parts off the 72 to make my truck have disk brakes . So I hope the ball joints are the same. Someone said that they think the ball joints are a little longer for disk brakes.

Not sure what to think of the spacer between the hinge and truck. If it came off it should go back on. You may be experiencing some "Murphys Law".
Can you use the a arms and everything? Convert the whole thing over all at once? I would think the only difference would be if one is a 3/4 ton vs a 1/2 ton. Don't quote me on that though.
I pulled the front cross member out of my '66/a arms/spindles/everything all at once and stuck in a '79. Only had to drill two holes.
Might try asking a reputable parts store. If you get someone nice they should be helpful on a question like that.
Good Luck. For running around not getting anything done, you sure got alot done.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Not sure what to think of the spacer between the hinge and truck. If it came off it should go back on. You may be experiencing some "Murphys Law".
Can you use the a arms and everything? Convert the whole thing over all at once? I would think the only difference would be if one is a 3/4 ton vs a 1/2 ton. Don't quote me on that though.
I pulled the front cross member out of my '66/a arms/spindles/everything all at once and stuck in a '79. Only had to drill two holes.
Might try asking a reputable parts store. If you get someone nice they should be helpful on a question like that.
Good Luck. For running around not getting anything done, you sure got alot done.

I posted some pictures of the spacers on my site. Please go and see what i am doing wrong. in the picture you can see where I oblong one hole so they will match.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Not sure what to think of the spacer between the hinge and truck. If it came off it should go back on. You may be experiencing some "Murphys Law".
Can you use the a arms and everything? Convert the whole thing over all at once? I would think the only difference would be if one is a 3/4 ton vs a 1/2 ton. Don't quote me on that though.
I pulled the front cross member out of my '66/a arms/spindles/everything all at once and stuck in a '79. Only had to drill two holes.
Might try asking a reputable parts store. If you get someone nice they should be helpful on a question like that.
Good Luck. For running around not getting anything done, you sure got alot done.

BOMP: Have I got the wrong spacers for the hinge. I am at a stand still until I figure out the spacers. it takes me about 10 to 15 minutes a spacer to rat tail them out. I like to work but come on now this is not the way I planed to spend 4 to 5 hours.

[Bomp]

Okay, Now you can't quote me on this but from the research I've done,,,,,the spacers or "shims" slip in between the hinge and truck. We already knew that.
What I would suggest is putting the door on and seeing how well the gaps are. Without any shims. The gaps from top of door to roof, rear of the door, and bottom to the rocker. If rocker isn't installed I personally measure the gappage between the A pillar, roof, and B pillar. On my '66 the plate that the hinge bolts bolt to slide around a bit to allow for some adjustment. Starting the bolts and lightly snugging them up finger tight still allows you to gently move the door around to adjust your gaps.
This is one site that may be of way more help than what I can give.
http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-t...1947-1972.html


I also looked up this thread and they seemed to discuss some hinge/shim issues.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=514985


and this thread too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=529045

Sorry for not checking in sooner, couch got ahold of me and was turning me into a potato.
Hope this helps and good luck. Your doing not only awesome but Killer Awesome!!!

[Bomp]

This one seems really good too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=423586


This one but might not be as helpful.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=539521

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Okay, Now you can't quote me on this but from the research I've done,,,,,the spacers or "shims" slip in between the hinge and truck. We already knew that.
What I would suggest is putting the door on and seeing how well the gaps are. Without any shims. The gaps from top of door to roof, rear of the door, and bottom to the rocker. If rocker isn't installed I personally measure the gappage between the A pillar, roof, and B pillar. On my '66 the plate that the hinge bolts bolt to slide around a bit to allow for some adjustment. Starting the bolts and lightly snugging them up finger tight still allows you to gently move the door around to adjust your gaps.
This is one site that may be of way more help than what I can give.
http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-t...1947-1972.html


I also looked up this thread and they seemed to discuss some hinge/shim issues.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=514985


and this thread too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=529045

Sorry for not checking in sooner, couch got ahold of me and was turning me into a potato.
Hope this helps and good luck. Your doing not only awesome but Killer Awesome!!!

got it figured out with the spacers. thanks for the links.