Brent's '72 Custom/10 SWB stepside build

[brossow]

One quick update before spring ... back on 11/27 (Thanksgiving Day) I finally had both time and cooperation from the weather to get the project packed up for the winter. Ended up emptying the entire garage except for stuff that simply wouldn't move or didn't need to move (powdercoating oven, air compressor, etc.) and filled an entire city garbage container with ... well, garbage. Rolled the chassis into the garage without issue and got it as tight to the wall as I could manage with just one guy pushing and no steering to speak of. Did a fine job, I must say. I can still open the walk-in door with a quarter-inch to spare.

Moved the media blasting cabinet inside but made sure I still had room to operate it if the need arises. I can still do powdercoating over the winter if anyone needs stuff done -- had a lot of interest but no followthrough.

If the current blizzard stops, I may try to get pics of everything packed back in. For now, I've just got the pics below.

Happy holidays, everyone! See you in the spring....

Brent

[1972CheyenneSuper]

Just read through your whole thread. You've come a long way, and I was a little too late for a few cab parts, oh well. How much do you have in the CPP alum. fuel tank and pump? What are you going to use for fuel lines, steel, stainless, aluminum, braided? Hope to see some progress pictures in the meantime. I can't wait to get after mine again.

[Brento]

Hey Brent, this is Brent. I just started posting my build... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318923 ...and checked yours out. Looks like we have more in common than the name Brent and a 72' C-10. Our parts supplier (CPP) even matches. Kinda freaky considering the parts we both bought. Good luck with your build.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by 1972CheyenneSuper

Just read through your whole thread. You've come a long way, and I was a little too late for a few cab parts, oh well. How much do you have in the CPP alum. fuel tank and pump? What are you going to use for fuel lines, steel, stainless, aluminum, braided? Hope to see some progress pictures in the meantime. I can't wait to get after mine again.

No idea how much I've got in the tank setup, to be honest. Bought it for a different project but appropriated it for this one. Haven't nailed down a plan for the fuel lines but I expect I'll be gong with braided fuel lines with Aeroquip fittings. Don't hold your breath for progress pics between now and April at the earliest -- the project is packed into the garage and buried under parts, boxes. etc. Wish I had a decent garage to work in, but as I've whined about ad nauseum in the past, it's only 18x18 and I'm lucky to have enough room to get everything packed in for the winter -- definitely not enough room to do any work. (Except powdercoating -- did leave enough space for that in case I get the urge and the temps get above zero again. Currently -6° with a windchill of -32°. Oof.)

[1972CheyenneSuper]

I know about the space problems too. And I definately know how impossible unheated garages and/or working outside are this time of year. I'm just one state west of you. This past weekend blast the midwest received wasn't a whole lot of fun.

I've been thinking about doing powdercoated steel fuel lines or aluminum lines on my truck. It'd force me to buy a good bender and I've also been wanting a 37 degree bender for doing AN fittings and lines. I think it would just be a good learning experience.

[Brento]

Here are a couple of pics of what I did on mine. The brake lines are stainless from inline tube so i figured a stainless fuel line would match and last as long as the brake lines. The stainless tube came in a roll and was easy enough to straighten out. The tubing bender was the $20 "deluxe" model and worked great. Inline tube has directions on how to straighten the stainless by hand since their brake lines come folded into a box. Haven't got to installing ends yet but figure a foot or so of braid and -an fittings will look sweet and not be crazy expensive. The roll of stainless is cheaper than braid. I got stainless the tubing and aluminum brackets from Summit. By the way, on the small garage front...I've only got about 4 feet on the left side of that door in the pics. Everytime I switch gears on the project or clean up the garage it's a puzzle.

[brossow]

Looks nice! What fasteners are you using to hold the lines to the frame? Source?

[Brento]

Got them from Summit Racing Equipment. Just drilled and tapped the frame then used locktite to keep them there. The little screws are even stainless.

Billet Specialties Billet Line Clamps

Part #
BSP-65110 Hose Mounting Clamps, Billet Aluminum, Polished, One .188 in. Diameter Hole, Set of 4 $9.75

BSP-65410 Hose Mounting Clamps, Billet Aluminum, Polished, One .375 in. Diameter Hole, Set of 4 $9.75

BSP-65210 Hose Mounting Clamps, Billet Aluminum, Polished, One .250 in. Diameter Hole, Set of 4 $9.75

BSP-65310 Hose Mounting Clamps, Billet Aluminum, Polished, One .313 in. Diameter Hole, Set of 4 $9.75

[brossow]

Great info -- thanks! My only concern is with them being aluminum. In my non-climate-controlled garage I could see corrosion becoming an issue even though the truck won't be driven in salt and snow. Around here, aluminum stuff "powders up" (for lack of a better term) just sitting around out of the elements. Maybe I'll look for something similar in stainless.

[Brento]

My garage is in the same boat. Only have heat when the tornado is fired up. These have been installed for two years, sitting through midwest season changes, in the garage and have no change in appearance. i understand what you mean though, I got a couple carb spacers that have chalked over.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Brento

My garage is in the same boat. Only have heat when the tornado is fired up. These have been installed for two years, sitting through midwest season changes, in the garage and have no change in appearance. i understand what you mean though, I got a couple carb spacers that have chalked over.

Might have to look into those after all, then. Won't be buying/installing brake lines until next spring unless some crazy deal falls in my lap.

[STOCKISH]

Cant wait to see more progress. It is looking great so far. Nice work

[brossow]

Well, it seems I just can't effing win. Wasn't happy with the lack of header clearance with the CPP tubular motor mounts I was using with my LS1 swap, so late last year I ordered the Gen3 mount setup from Early Classic. Now six months later the weather is finally decent enough to work on it again, only to discover that not only are the ECE mounts not a direct bolt-in but, MUCH worse, the emmeffing oil pan reportedly won't clear the crossmember with the ECE mounts. Anyone wanna buy a project? Gawd, I'm pissed....

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by brossow

Well, it seems I just can't effing win. Wasn't happy with the lack of header clearance with the CPP tubular motor mounts I was using with my LS1 swap, so late last year I ordered the Gen3 mount setup from Early Classic. Now six months later the weather is finally decent enough to work on it again, only to discover that not only are the ECE mounts not a direct bolt-in but, MUCH worse, the emmeffing oil pan reportedly won't clear the crossmember with the ECE mounts. Anyone wanna buy a project? Gawd, I'm pissed....

What pan do you have? Why isn't it bolt in? I put the same setup in my Suburban and CrewCab and didn't have any fitment issues. How can I help?

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

What pan do you have? Why isn't it bolt in? I put the same setup in my Suburban and CrewCab and didn't have any fitment issues. How can I help?

I have the F-body pan (motor is from a '99 Z28) and according to your build thread, it won't clear. I am out of funds and can't afford a CTS-V pan unless someone wants to donate one to me. If I wait to save up funds, I've lost another full year on my project because my working facilities are terrible at best and so I've got only 6 months out of the year (in a good year) to work outside. (Waahh, poor me, I know.)

It isn't bolt in because only the top holes come close to lining up with anything. The bottom part of the mounts have no existing holes to bolt through, but worse, the back part just kinda hangs out into space and doesn't seem to match up with the contours of the factory crossmember. See pics.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by brossow

I have the F-body pan (motor is from a '99 Z28) and according to your build thread, it won't clear. I am out of funds and can't afford a CTS-V pan unless someone wants to donate one to me. If I wait to save up funds, I've lost another full year on my project because my working facilities are terrible at best and so I've got only 6 months out of the year (in a good year) to work outside. (Waahh, poor me, I know.)

It isn't bolt in because only the top holes come close to lining up with anything. The bottom part of the mounts have no existing holes to bolt through, but worse, the back part just kinda hangs out into space and doesn't seem to match up with the contours of the factory crossmember. See pics.

I understand about the pan. I have a truck one that I will swap you for your camaro pan or you can sell it pretty easily and buy the CTsV pan.

Was your truck originally a 6cyl? I had to drill one hole on each side because those mounts are for a BIG Block and my truck was originally a 350. I'm thinking you don't have the 2 holes because yours was a six??

Here are a couple of pictures of my crossmember. I had to drill the 2 bottom front holes on mine. I've got better pictures at home that I can post later. Let me know if there's any other way I can help.

R/

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

I understand about the pan. I have a truck one that I will swap you for your camaro pan or you can sell it pretty easily and buy the CTsV pan.

Was your truck originally a 6cyl? I had to drill one hole on each side because those mounts are for a BIG Block and my truck was originally a 350. I'm thinking you don't have the 2 holes because yours was a six??

Here are a couple of pictures of my crossmember. I had to drill the 2 bottom front holes on mine. I've got better pictures at home that I can post later. Let me know if there's any other way I can help.

R/

My truck was originally a six, yes, but I have no idea what donor of the crossmember I'm using had. I can drill holes, no problem, but I was concerned about the way the back part just kinda hangs out there. Supposed to do that? Would love to see more pics of yours before I drill more holes.

Any tips on locating the CTS-V pan used? And is eBay the best place to dump the F-body pan, or is there a specific market I should go after?

Thanks for the help. Feeling really, really frustrated at the moment -- waited half a year to be able to get back into this after a fairly productive fall in 2008, but now everything seems to be turning to crap.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by brossow

My truck was originally a six, yes, but I have no idea what donor of the crossmember I'm using had. I can drill holes, no problem, but I was concerned about the way the back part just kinda hangs out there. Supposed to do that? Would love to see more pics of yours before I drill more holes.

Any tips on locating the CTS-V pan used? And is eBay the best place to dump the F-body pan, or is there a specific market I should go after?

Thanks for the help. Feeling really, really frustrated at the moment -- waited half a year to be able to get back into this after a fairly productive fall in 2008, but now everything seems to be turning to crap.

It looks to me like your brackets need to move forward. I'll see if I have some better pictures at home. Email me at robhartley.com to remind me.

As far as the CTsV pan, ebay or check your dealership (maybe even rockauto.com??). You could try selling your's on our board, ebay or the thirdgen board. Either should probably work.

I understand your frustration, I've dealt with several myself, just keep the faith. When all is said and done, you will have a very reliable and sporty truck. Hopefully, this fall when I have a some spare time (yeah right!), I am going to do a right up on these installs to help people navigate through it a little more easily. Take care.

EDIT: The back hole on the motor mount should line up here:

.

[Hart_Rod]

Disregard preivous picture, I mean here: (5 min edit gets me every time, ).

.

[brossow]

I can get three of the four holes to line up perfectly and the bottom part of the brackets sit against the crossmember like they came from the factory that way ... BUT ......

.... only if the brackets are raised about 1/2" above the frame rails. See attached pics. Am I doing something wrong? Do I have some completely bizarre frame that's 1/2" shorter than everyone else's? Do I have something assembled incorrectly? Did I misread the [nonexistent] directions? In short, WTF???

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by brossow

I can get three of the four holes to line up perfectly and the bottom part of the brackets sit against the crossmember like they came from the factory that way ... BUT ......

.... only if the brackets are raised about 1/2" above the frame rails. See attached pics. Am I doing something wrong? Do I have some completely bizarre frame that's 1/2" shorter than everyone else's? Do I have something assembled incorrectly? Did I misread the [nonexistent] directions? In short, WTF???

Mine didn't fit perfectly, but they weren't that far off. If I were you I would give Stan at ECE a call and get some measurements. Do you know anyone else with a bare frame that you could set them on just to see if something is up with the frame?

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Mine didn't fit perfectly, but they weren't that far off. If I were you I would give Stan at ECE a call and get some measurements. Do you know anyone else with a bare frame that you could set them on just to see if something is up with the frame?

I'll call ECE tomorrow. Don't know anyone with a bare frame, unfortunately. I'm just disgusted with this mess, considering all the money I've thrown at the problem so far. For the kind of money I've spent, I shouldn't have to do a damn thing except drop the bolts in place and tighten 'em up. If I wanted to piss around with fabricating stuff, I would have done that in the first place. Not a good day....

[brossow]

As for the CTS-V oil pan setup ... just priced out the pan, pickup and windage tray at gmpartsdirect.com and I can get all three shipped for $226.51, so I may not mess around too long looking for a used one and just put it on the plastic. May be a moot point if I can't get the @#$* ECE mounts bolted on properly and I go back to the CPP tubular mounts.

Just a note that according to gmpartsdirect.com, the PN for the Caddy pan has been replaced with a new one (12598152 --> 12605814).

[lolife99]

Are those frame stands for a 73-87 frame?
One of the two frames is taller,... I just can't remember which.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Are those frame stands for a 73-87 frame?
One of the two frames is taller,... I just can't remember which.

That would certainly explain it, if the later frame is taller and ECE sent me the wrong part. I didn't see a '73-87 part listed on their site, but....