My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[jlsanborn]

You're an artist AND a comedian! That bit about smellin gas in the dark and The Kid liking "hot eatin" - I don't care who you are, that's funny right there! Killing snakes - I'll use that one!

Thanks for the bodywork tips! I'll pick up the Durablocks this week. My plan was to shoot epoxy over the metal then go to a high build for block sanding. Make sense to you?

[Low Elco]

Yup- that's what I did! Incur able smartass since birth! Killin' snakes is a standard Midwest term for someone who doesn't exactly have a relaxed working pace. I've been accused of it for years. If you dig the funny, new Ron White tomorrow by download only at

http://ronwhitespecial.com/

Enjoy!
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[jlsanborn]

VeeWee rolled out the driveway tonight. Should have funds tomorrow or Friday. UPS dude is gonna be busy trying to turn that big brown around in my road every day! Now back to the bodywork!
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[Low Elco]

Whatcha gonna order? Enjoy early Christmas!
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

^^^^X2 ! C,mon Johnny spill the beans.lol

[jlsanborn]

It's a damn dillema! I have struggled with the "build plan" already, having bought parts that are collecting dust and not really moving things forward (wheels/tires, Muncie). All I need to finish the chassis is the rear swaybar, tie-rod ends and shocks so I'll do that right off the bat. I'm thinking then I'll get all the soft parts for doors and cab, grille trim and bezels, emblems, lenses, glass.... I'll see how far it goes. Still need bed strips/hardware bumpers and of course MOTOR. I'm going to look at a small journal 327 with 461 heads today after work! If it's got a forged crank I'll probably score it, bring it home, put it on the stand and watch it catch dust. See!

[Bomp]

I hear ya. One thing leads to another or you get one thing and have to wait. Hurry up and wait and when it comes time to do something I just stand around and ponder.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Yes.
You can swap all those parts.
They are all compatable with your a-arms.
Spindles, ball joints and tie rods (with $50 adapter sleeves)

But it's so much simpler to buy new spindles that use your existing balljoints and tie rods.
Change nothing.
www.PerformanceOnline.com sells these conversion spindles every day for $228.

It may be easier but not cheaper.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by gdavis

It may be easier but not cheaper.

I did drop spindles, so the "conversion" was no extra cost. If you were simply converting to disk then bone-yard parts would save you a few bucks.
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[jlsanborn]

Didn't check out that 327 tonight. Too busy with "not C10" work in the shop again. Had to repair / modify a woodstove for sis. Plan is to check it out tomorrow.
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[jlsanborn]

CHA-CHING!!! Funded baby!

Ordered up my No Limit rear sway bar (2-3 week backorder) and front sway bar bushings. Had a few emails with Rob regarding shocks but I'm still not sure what to get. I think I'll hold on that for now. Also hair-triggered on that 327!!! It's 1965 RPO "HC" which was a 275hp, PGlide, 4bbl, passenger car motor. Has the 461 camel humps and a forged crank . When we first looked we thought it was "HO", which is 1965 300hp Vette. We were pissin, then did a little cleaning and were like "I think that's a C not an O". The Boy and I tore it down and are a little concerned. It's already 0.030" over and has the hella ridge at the top of stroke. He'll take it to Skill Center for an inside mic and hopefully it'll take another 0.030" for one last hoorah!. The crank is already 0.010"/0.010" too but it looks pretty clean. I'll load up the rest of the crusty crap this weekend and drop it by the blaster's shop on Monday. Should have those bits painted black and this thing sitting on it's new shoes by next week or so. This project is moving again, but I'm still hung on the bodywork. I'm trying to find the Durablocks locally instead of online.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Good to see things are getting back on track ! hope everything works out with the motor. do you know if the heads are ready for unleaded?

[Bomp]

With that size of shop you could make your very own blast room or blast box. Just sayin cause you got ROOM!
Nice to see you and the young one killin it in the shop. Good luck on the motor.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

Good to see things are getting back on track ! hope everything works out with the motor. do you know if the heads are ready for unleaded?

Thanks John! Got that instrument panel sprayed yet?

I'd have to guess that these heads are OG and will need hardened seats. We'll do screw in studs and guide plates too. I know that by the time I'm done with them I'll have spent about as much as a set of new aluminum CNC heads cost, but the objective is COOL. Camel humps are COOL! We've gone rounds on the motor thing. You can buy a 383 crate or bone-yard a Vortec and get way more hp per buck. Again the objective isn't HP or efficiency, it's COOL. An old school 327 with GM cast iron heads, making 300+ hp is what we're looking for. No bling.

Originally Posted by Bomp

With that size of shop you could make your very own blast room or blast box. Just sayin cause you got ROOM!
Nice to see you and the young one killin it in the shop. Good luck on the motor.

Thanks Bomp! I've contemplated the home blaster too. I think I'd have to upgrade the compressor situation and am trying to save SPACE. I love my big shop and am continuously trying to keep it clear. I see a lot of dudes on here working outside or in a small space and feel pretty lucky to have the room. I just want to keep it that way. I'm down to a handfull of yucky parts and I'll be glad to drop a hundred to have the dude down the road blast them for me. Looking back, I probably should have invested as it would have been much quicker and easier with much better results (like yours). Next time....

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Camel hump heads are COOL ! I'm with you there, I have a set on my chevelle. actually the entire motor is just like it was in the early 80's when I bought the car. I had the heads rebuilt years later when you could no longer buy regular leaded fuel.(used to be 87 cents a gallon when I started driving.)

[Low Elco]

I was gonna say, seeing Bomps blast box has given me new inspiration. X2 on the indecision. Trying to decide which way to go on LBT. Don't wanna tear down too far, winter's a comin', and I (hopefully) have some more sidies coming. It's fun just to bomb aroound in, but, it burns some oil, the suspension sucks, the crust on the body I have most of the panels for, which way to go? Gaaah!

[jlsanborn]

Officially done GETTING firewood (got the other half of g-daddy yesterday). Put the racks and cables up, vacuumed the stink-bugs and crap out, pressure washed the inside. Looks like a new truck!! Still have splitting and stacking to do tho.

Swung by Napa today and grabbed new tie rod ends. Documented and loaded all my crusty stuff to drop by the blaster's tomorrow after work (door panels, grille, rad support, inners and a bunch of little stuff). Next up will be building my spray tent.

[jlsanborn]

Truck was a 292 I6 with a column shift three speed. It has the forward mounted crossmember that supports the bellhousing. I picked up some V8 engine stands, but I'm not sure about where to put those and if I should change crossmembers?

Aren't there different mounting locations for the engine stands?

Is that bell mounted starter going to suck?

Are there optional mounting locations for the crossmemeber if I change to the trans mount style?

[jlsanborn]

I've got a healthy list of stuff to order, but I want to make sure I hang on to enough cash for paint. What's a good SWAG for primer and paint? I've got a gallon of epoxy and enough black for wheels and small parts already. I'm guessing I'll need more epoxy, high build and color (single stage urethane). Think $1000 will cover that? I wanna be fat because I'll also be needing more abrasives, thinner, all those kind of consumables too.

[FrankieD]

not sure if these guys can save you any because of shipping but you can get an idea on pricing. They are 5min from my house.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/default.aspx

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Truck was a 292 I6 with a column shift three speed. It has the forward mounted crossmember that supports the bellhousing. I picked up some V8 engine stands, but I'm not sure about where to put those and if I should change crossmembers?

Aren't there different mounting locations for the engine stands?

Is that bell mounted starter going to suck?

Are there optional mounting locations for the crossmemeber if I change to the trans mount style?

Hey Johnny, I'll have to look at mine to make sure, but if I remember right my motor mount stands are in the rear location. I also have the bell housing mount X member. that configuration was correct for the 3 speed trans. and works for the big muncie granny low 4 speed. Like I said, let me double check exact mounting points.

[jlsanborn]

That'd be awesome John! I've got the M20 Muncie, but it bolts up to the bell. It kinda sucks that the bell has thru holes on the bottom of the flange, but I can deal with that. I don't have any support issues either. I've seen lots of guys run this setup. My biggest concern is the bell mounted starter. I don't wanna hack the bell to run a block mounted starter. Is that bell mounted starter crappy? Am I limited in flywheel diamter with this? If there's a big reason for me to change to a rear crossmember I wanna do that now.

Enough with the chit-chat, jlsanborn is building on this thread again! I dropped off a pile of junk at the blasters on Monday. He's about a week or so backlogged but I'm stoked. I ordered an a$$-lode of pretty stuff today too! Pretty much everything for the interior, all the door bits, a complete rubber kit, mirrors, emblems, grill trim and bezels, can't even remember it all right now. I'll put up pics after Big Brown comes. The Boy prettied up the big-o sway bar and got that hung while I finished out the passenger door tonight. There'll be paint fumes here soon!

[FrankieD]

My 70 W/granny 4spd and the 72 3spd parts truck had the same bellhousing mounts. You could use a car bellhousing they didn't have the mounts on them and then you would have the threads for the bottom bolts.

[Low Elco]

Woot, woot! Looks like progress! Always feels good to go forward!
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Well I was wrong, my engine stands are mounted in the forward position. I have never had any trouble out of my bell mounted starter, its the same starter I used when it was my daily driver for a year. the engine stands only have two mounting positions(on my frame), and the bell mount X member looks like it has three positions. also remember that the Z bar for manual trans had different mounting points, and sizes too.