My caster mod (with pictures)

[racecougar]

I left the saddles in place with the stock rivets as well. Not certain why the OP removed them only to reinstall with socketheads.

[The Rocknrod]

I installed socket heads. One of the reasons is someone previously mounted the lower a-arms and didn't ensure they were seated properly, the locating pins were crushed some and I wanted to ensure they worked properly.

[chevyrestoguy]

It wasn't really a requirement to knock out the rivets on the saddles. I just wanted maximum engagement on all four points. I machined the new spotfaces in the shafts .005" over the diameter of the Grade 8 socket heads, and the added height of the sockethead (versus the height of the rivet) makes for a positive interaction where the shaft locks in to the saddle. With the rivet, you're only engaged at the height of the outer lip. It'll work fine, because that's all the factory required, but I tend to overkill when it comes to suspensions.

[Johnny_Lamebridge]

Hey guys, I moved my LCA's ahead by 3/4". They were original steel bushing style shafts.

I got an alignment done today. The caster reading was 5.5 degrees. Just an FYI...

[69gmcc10]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

I have been thinking about elongating the upper cross shaft locating holes for finer adjustments, leaving the shims only for camber adjustments (1/8" of motion would equal .5 degrees of movement). I need to go back and look over your math and Scoti's alignment numbers.

I spoke with an old hot rodder/racer about this the other day about this and he said the uppers see so much force under breaking that it would probably shift. My uncle was a front end mechanic for chevy for 30 years. I told him what I was doing and the upper arm shaft idea and he suggested to fine tune the uppers he would unbolt the shaft from the studs and twist it. He said he used to do it all the time and each turn on the shaft is just under 1/4" forward or backwards off the top of his head.

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

I spoke with an old hot rodder/racer about this the other day about this and he said the uppers see so much force under breaking that it would probably shift. My uncle was a front end mechanic for chevy for 30 years. I told him what I was doing and the upper arm shaft idea and he suggested to fine tune the uppers he would unbolt the shaft from the studs and twist it. He said he used to do it all the time and each turn on the shaft is just under 1/4" forward or backwards off the top of his head.

Was he referring to twisting the upper shaft in the end caps? It would kinda make sense. While installing them you want the caps to go on equally and tighten them down from there. The only problem with this is that you wouldn't want to have the the shaft improperly engaged in one cap (front in this case). I will agree that it is worth a closer look. Im not so sure the shafts would shift if properly torqued but his idea is free and machining isn't. The front suspension on my truck is disassembled at the moment and I was just about to order new u-bolts to reassemble it so it I do think its a good time to investigate the possibilities. Its been a while since I've even thought about this whole thing.

[69gmcc10]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Was he referring to twisting the upper shaft in the end caps? It would kinda make sense. While installing them you want the caps to go on equally and tighten them down from there. The only problem with this is that you wouldn't want to have the the shaft improperly engaged in one cap (front in this case). I will agree that it is worth a closer look. Im not so sure the shafts would shift if properly torqued but his idea is free and machining isn't. The front suspension on my truck is disassembled at the moment and I was just about to order new u-bolts to reassemble it so it I do think its a good time to investigate the possibilities. Its been a while since I've even thought about this whole thing.

Yes, twisting them in the caps...After I talked to him and was thinking about this, I also was concerned about moving the shaft far enough forward that it would bottom out in the front cup during suspension travel and cause issues. Just need to pay attention.

[crakarjax]

I think you'd have to twist one cap one way, the other cap the opposite -- otherwise you'd draw the caps in or move them out equally netting no caster gain. I'd be concerned about removing bearing surface on the one end of the shaft though, causing premature wearout since the caps are the actual friction surfaces.

[69gmcc10]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I think you'd have to twist one cap one way, the other cap the opposite -- otherwise you'd draw the caps in or move them out equally netting no caster gain. I'd be concerned about removing bearing surface on the one end of the shaft though, causing premature wearout since the caps are the actual friction surfaces.

You are correct in tightening one and loosening the other when it comes to the caps, but since both ends are right hand turn when you twist a shaft already installed the shaft moves forward and backwards. It won't squeeze or push the ears of the control arm at all.

[ranger2339]

Ended up doing my arms, got the idea from Rob but decided to take a different approach I saw another member here took. I am on a tight budget so went this way, might brace them up a bit, we will see. I'm not the best fabricator, but I'm happy with them. Moved them over .75

Thanks to everybody.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by ranger2339

Ended up doing my arms, got the idea from Rob but decided to take a different approach I saw another member here took. I am on a tight budget so went this way, might brace them up a bit, we will see. I'm not the best fabricator, but I'm happy with them. Moved them over .75

Thanks to everybody.

Definitely..... plate & brace them.

[ranger2339]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Definitely..... plate & brace them.

Anybody have any ideas on how to do this with this set up?

[jjzepplin]

I am sorry? WHY did you do this? I would not run those even with bracing and plating. Seems to have defeated the purpose and created a dangerous situation. Please explain.

[ranger2339]

Lol what purpose was defeated here? Little dramatic aye?
Posted via Mobile Device

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by ranger2339

Anybody have any ideas on how to do this with this set up?

A piece of 3/16 plate across the bottom & on the sides (F&R).

[ranger2339]

Thanks. I have two more sets of arms so if these don't work
I'll try a different method.
Posted via Mobile Device

[gringoloco]

Definitely plate top/bottom. Don't want that breaking off while driving!

[solidaxel]

Have you installed "skid plates" on the lower parts of your front end

[ranger2339]

Ok bad idea, I get it. As soon as I did it I wasn't very confident, not sure if bracing will be enough??

Ill just do the way Rob did it with moving the BJ hole over with another set of arms I have.

[solidaxel]

I have had a experience with skid plates and lower suspension parts!

[jjzepplin]

OH my! Are you ok? Do tell the story.

[solidaxel]

Long story !
Very interesting ride, until we got the truck off the road!
All fixed and gaining more confidence every day

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by ranger2339

Lol what purpose was defeated here? Little dramatic aye?
Posted via Mobile Device

Just trying to save a life here. Sorry I was dramatic. I meant no harm. Just doesn't look safe. If you moved the arm forward by the mod method, and then moved the ball joint mounting then didn't you basically just move the place where the spring sits? I just don't follow what you've done here. I am a little slow today. Again, I mean no harm just trying to figure this out. As I understand the MOD it moves the whole arm and that is what it is intended to do. Or did you move the ball joint in the same direction creating even more caster?

[crakarjax]

I don't see any problem with modding the arms the way ranger has, as long as he ties in the sides and welds a plate across the bottom. He's just moving the balljoint over to improve caster while leaving the spring pocket in the correctly aligned location.

@solidaxel, how did you manage to drag your lower balljoint on the ground? Did your wheel fall off?

[tinydb84]

I did my first set of arms in a similar way.

The plating is more important on the sides than top and bottom. You lost the strength of the arms when you cut through the sides. Think of bending a ruler when it is flat vs standing on its side.