72 C20 "Old Mustard"

[Mustard72]

...but we weren't quite done cutting rust out of the frame. The rearmost cross member had the same issue with the rust jacking the connection to the frame apart and rotting everything. The first bed to frame mount location behind the rear axle was bad on both sides, too, so those got replaced. The little 120V welder is getting a workout with this frame work. I've been beveling the joints pretty well to help with the welds and running the mig nozzle in a series of back and forth strokes across the joint rather than just one straight pass. I've only been running about 2-3 inches of weld at a time to take it a bit easier on the welder. Not sure that is necessary, but I think it's only rated for about 20-30% duty cycle at full load.

I'm going to box the rear section of frame just in the cross member area (which also is by the rear leaf spring mount) and shorten the original cross member and weld it in between the boxed sections, I think. I'll also box the top of the rear axle hump in order to install a gooseneck hitch in that area. I'll probably be copying or at least referencing some off the other gooseneck intalls I've seen on this site. Did I mention I think this site is awesome?

[mjensen]

Looking good Nick!

[Mustard72]

Thanks, Mike.

My Dad was over to help again. He got the front suspension crossmember off of the other frame, along with 3 of the cab and bed support pads that were in better shape than the ones on this frame. Fortunately the rain held off while he was out in the driveway doing all of that.

Shot a coat of rust converter paint on the front 2/3 of the frame, as well. I still need to repair a couple of the cab mount pads, but just wanted to get some sort of paint on for a sense of accomplishment. The engine will be back in a week or week and a half, and I'd just as soon it go right on the frame rather than having it on the engine stand taking up room, so having the front of the frame (and maybe the suspension, etc.???) done and ready will be good.

[sduckworth13]

Frame looks great Nick, what brand of rust converter did you use?

[Mustard72]

I used mostly the Rustoleum stuff. It's more like a paint/primer than a lot of the others that appear to be basically sprayable naval jelly (at least they go on clear). I used some other brand that I can't remember the name of off the top of my head that I picked up at the local Fleet Farm that was more of a naval jelly/clear application. I don't have any opinions as to which is better, although I believe the naval jelly stuff can actually cause rust if applied to non-rusty steel whereas I don't believe the Rustoleum brand converter will do that. At least that's how I've interpreted this stuff...

I think Valspar might make an equivalent to the Rustoleum converter, too.

[Mustard72]

Well, since the last update, I was able to box in small sections at the back of the frame where the rear crossmember/frame rail connection had rusted apart. I shortened up the crossmember and welded it back in place between the inner box sides. That way I keep the proper hole for the wiring harness. Hopefully the harness will still fit, as the hole is further inward now. Didn't think of this until just now, but when I convert to a rear gas tank, this new harness mounting point might be a problem, too. We'll see. That's off a ways in the future at this point, unfortunately.

Both rear cab frame mounts looked like the one pictured. I cut out the top and welded in new steel for both sides, welding the new steel to the original mounts and also to the frame rail. Then I had Ogg and Thak come over again and torch out the holes. (Actually, I torched them out before installing them). Sorta ugly holes, but they'll be a lot stronger than the rotted out ones were. The front cab mounts were in rough shape, too, but we're going to use the ones off the original coil spring frame. Did I mention I'm getting sick of grinding off rivits???

Also got the 72 front suspension crossmember mounted to this frame (which is older, but I'm not really sure what year). The 72 used some reinforcing brackets on the insides of the frame between the crossmember and frame rails to apparently tie it all together better. I had to elongate several of the holes to get the newer crossmember in there, so, like so many other parts of the project, this turned out to be more work than simply bolting it together. I am excited about getting around to bolting parts back on, though.

Gotta pick up a gooseneck hitch somewhere in the next week or so and get to work on fabbing up a mounting system for it.

[87Jimmy4JP]

lookin good!

JP

[sduckworth13]

Nice job taking your time to make sure you have a solid frame, it coming along nice.

[Mustard72]

Thanks, guys.

[jae]

wow, I'm impressed with the amount of work you're putting into this truck. I'm subscribing for updates.

[Mustard72]

Thanks, JAE. The amount of work wasn't in the original plan, it just sort of worked out that way. It's been a fun and expensive learning experience. It's one of those things I always wanted to do, and when the justification came along (horse trailer), I sort of jumped right in. Of course, the word "justification" implies some sort of logic being used. I'm several thousand dollars and several months beyond the point where I could have bought a decent later model truck to pull a horse trailer with. Oh well. It's still been a lot of fun, and I guess that's what most of the folks are after that are on this site

[Mustard72]

Welded some more reinforcement into the frame around the mid-ship bearing cross member, as the frame was a bit rusty right around the cross member. I still have a little more to do with this, but I feel better about getting this critical area beefed up. Got out the old sand blast gun to clean the paint and rust out of the areas that were hard to reach with the grinder. Worked pretty well. Also pulled the mid-ship bearing bracket from the old coil spring frame out in the driveway (before it rains/snows tomorrow) and bolted it to the leaf spring crossmember.

Also bolted and welded the front cab mount pads from the old coil spring frame to the leaf spring frame. I welded and bolted due to the rivets that I ground the heads off of still being stuck in the frame in many areas. I guess I'd rather weld them in than drill them out. I like welding. I don't like rivets.

Also pulled the other tailgate off the crappy bed in the driveway. The mechanism works better on it, and besides it popped out of its hinges when the floppy old bed flexed all over the place when I pulled it off the frame to get the mid-ship bearing bracket off.

[Mustard72]

I've been looking for two studs to replace two of the front upper a-arm mounting studs I had that were pretty corroded. The front two were fine, the rear two not so much. They're 9/16" fine thread studs, apparently grade 5 based on the torque spec listed, and I just haven't been able to find them anywhere but LMC. I tried ordering on-line from LMC, but either their website wasn't working right or my computer was having issues, because I couldn't sign in or view my cart. So, I realized that most of the stuff on the LMC list was stuff I could probably get locally except the a-arm studs, and figured I'd come up with my own plan. I bought the last two grade 5 9/16 x 2.5" bolts from the local Ace and welded a 7/16" flat washer to the top of the head. I thought I took a picture of this, but must not have pressed "save". I then put one of the old a-arm cross shafts on as shown below and used it to pull the new "stud" square in the hole. The washer fit somewhat snugly inside the original inner wall hole. I ground a few areas of chamfer around the inner wall holes and welded the "stud" into place. It should hole well over the 105 ft-lbs the torque spec calls for and I didn't have to pay shipping from LMC.

One of the other pictures shows one of the modified angle pieces used to tie the center cross member to the frame better. Probably over the top, but I want to make sure this old frame holds together well, and it was sort of rusty under the cross member, but I already talked about that in a previous post.

After that was all said and done, I got out the spray gun for the first time in twenty years or so and primed the front 2/3 of the frame.

[gdavis]

Hey guy. I see that you welded some metal. I like the way it looks. The angle brace on the cab supports was a good idea. It will keep out all the snow,snow, did I say snow and dirt and salt and any other stuff that eats metal. Good job. The frame is really going to be a work horse 3/4 ton. I still got mine. Down here in Florida it seems that you can't give a long wheel base away. I don't know if you are some of your friends might have a set of 350 exhaust manifolds. I am in the market for a set. Keep me in mind. I see that God has been good to you. The kids are a blessing. I have two boys that I adophed a couple years ago. They are special needs children. Their needs are special to them. Sometimes it takes all I can do to keep up with them. At 63 and counting. Well keep the good work up and I will be watching your build. Thanks a lot George

[Mustard72]

Thanks, George. Hopefully, Mustard won't be driven in the snow and salt much after this is done, but who knows. Our other two vehicles aren't exactly new, either, so it might have to serve in a pinch in the middle of the winter at some point.

I don't have any extra exhaust manifolds right now. I had to replace one already as the original was cracked.

My wife and I were looking into special needs adoption a few years ago, too. We decided it wasn't for us at that point, but we have friends that have adopted special needs kids. I have a lot of respect and admiration for those of you that can commit to it.

[gdavis]

When I say special needs it doesn't mean that they are handycapped or anything like that. They were brothers and it's hard for the state to find a couple to adophy two at a time. They just don't want to take on that kind of responablity. It doesn't mean that they didn't come with their own problems.
If by some luck that you do run into a set please contact me asap. I had 4 trucks that I took apart and I have a few parts that I no longer need. If you need anything please contact me. For these parts need a good home. Gdavis

[Mustard72]

Well, paranoia struck again. I was nervous about this patched area of the frame rail at the transition to the front of the rear axle arch on the right side. I replaced the bottom web in this area, leaving a weld seam pretty much right at the tranisition area. It was a good weld, but just didn't look like enough, so I boxed the whole area in. I did both sides, even though the left side didn't have the patched section to worry about. The box plates were welded top and bottom (making sure I could either do a vertical down weld or at least a horizontal weld, I can't weld vertically up worth a hill of beans), and then the backs of the box plates were welded too the leading edges of the box plates for the crossmember mount welded in a little while ago already. Very stout now, I think.

The other shot is of the goofy leaf spring in the right rear. It's got leaves overhanging the front eyelet, some other weird leaf spacing, cut leaf spring clamps (both springs had that???). Both rear springs have different leaf counts, as well. One of them has 8 leaves plus two helpers while the other has 9 leaves with two helpers. Very HD, it would appear, but with the cut clamps, weird spacing, different springs side to side, etc. I'm just going to get a new set.

[sduckworth13]

I'd be paranoid if the frame was repaired right also if I was going to be hauling a horse trailer, nice job Nick. Better safe than sorry.
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[Mustard72]

Also got the front suspension arms and springs installed. Borrowed a internal spring compresser from friend and made a spacer/adapter for it to make it work for one of these trucks, otherwise the threaded rod sticks out too far and interferes with the frame when the spring is compressed. I got this idea from others on this site, as well.

Good to be reassembling stuff again.

New stuff includes Moog upper and lower ball joints, Moog upper arm shafts, rubber bumpers, and Monroe HD gas-matic shocks.

[gdavis]

I am glad that you are using Moog their parts seem to be real good parts. Did you space the upper control arm bushings center? I for got and had to tear down the suspension twice. Then I changed my direction on the 67 frame and used a 72 frame to get disk brakes. Then I had to do it again. I know for sure I can do the front blind folded.
Are you going to keep all those leaf springs? Just asking I know you are going to pull a horse trailer. It just looks like a over kill. But in the same thought it is better to have that to need.

[gdavis]

Never mind on the leaf springs you answered my question a few post back. Keep up the work my friend.

[Mustard72]

I got the a-arm shafts centered, although it took a little bit of work with one side for whatever reason. I initially was measuring carefully from side to side to what I thought was the center of the a-arm, but ended up just eye-balling the gaps on either end to get them right. I tend to overthink things sometimes. It helps at times, others not so much...

I'm not going to reuse these leaf springs (torched one of them up just to get it off, anyway). I'm currently looking for new leaf springs. It seems that most of them come with a 26" length from the front eye to the center bolt, whereas these "originals" were 24". I can find some 24", but I like some of the 26" versions better. I would think that would change the wheelbase, seeing as though the shackle is in the rear. I probably won't be going to an 8 or 9 leaf spring, though. The one's I've seen have been very spendy.

[Mustard72]

Well, I've got some good news and some bad news with this project.

Bad news first. My wife and I officially concluded that we weren't going to be done with Mustard in time for horse season, which starts in a couple of weeks (which may seem obvious to most of you). We had sort of realized this for quite some time now, but figured we'd be able to borrow/rent somebody's truck and trailer, etc. to haul our horse around to 4H stuff. But I'm still a long ways from being done on Mustard, even if I rush things more than I would like to. So, rather than borrowing/renting for a longer period of time than we'd feel comfortable with, we're going to buy another used pickup to pull the trailer around with. We've got lines on a couple that we'll be checking out in the next several days. Pretty bummed about not getting Mustard done on time. It was a really aggressive schedule, and the frame replacement thing really set me back a ways. Even without that, I probably wouldn't have been done on time. But.......

The good news is that I won't have to rush things to get Mustard back together. I'll be able to take my time and get things done right (or at least as right as I can make them). I was going to have to take lots of short cuts/temporary fixes from this point out to get the truck ready for summer (particularly with doors/fenders/interior/etc.) that I would have had to work on later, but now I won't have to do that. That's a good thing.

[sduckworth13]

Your doing good Nick, everything looks solid. Keep up the good work. It'll be finished before you know it.
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[Mustard72]

Yeah. It's actually a little bit of a relief not to have the time deadline. Hopefully it doesn't turn into too much of a relief, though, or I'll never get it done...