1968

[gdavis]

Today i blasted the fire wall and called it a day. Pic will follow Monday.

[Bomp]

In situations of welding in difficult places I start out just a tack weld at a time. Takes a lot longer but ends up being easier. As for the measurements of your year of cab I don't know specifically. Not sure if an assembly manual would have that information. Since I stretched my cab I basically used the A pillar and front cab roof line and the door to move and make (what I felt) was an acceptable gap between panels.
You may want to just tack panels into place before committing to a full out welded in place to test fit your doors and rockers.
Your doing great so far. Just take an extra moment to check then go back to your 110 mph. Your flyin through this build

[gdavis]

Today i cleaned up my work area. Boy was it in a mess. Tomorrow I will finish the front of the crowl cab. blasting I mean. I will post pictures tomorrow. I also will be trying to patch drivers side damage under the rain gutter. wish me luck. I never had luck welding up side down. My welds look like it came out of a tube when I weld up side down.

[gdavis]

Today I finshed blasting the Lower part of the fire wall. And blasted the inside of the cab. and primed the inside of the cab. Tomorrow I will install the short hump. My old one was for a standard shift transmission. I did not like the hole in the hump and it was too tall for me. (Looks) I also bondo glass the hood. I am going to use this one until I find one that had no repairs or buy one. Which ever comes first. The first Of the year I will be going to St. Petersburg, Fl. There is a company that has the hood, doors,front floor pan and rear floor pan for the drivers side. This way i will not have to pay shipping. Shipping of this much will be as much or more than the asking price.

[Bomp]

Do you have a better pics of the rust damage of your hood?
While your back getting all the sheet metal replacement parts they might have a spec guide for the measurements of the cab, gaps and such.

Your an animal,, keep it up.

[jonny..2008]

good progress for you. ill measure my cab for you if you need me to. pm me.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Xeen

You are definately making the right decision on keeping the 68 front clip, one of the "upgrades" im going to be doing to mine that you might consider is upgrading to the 69-72 wiring harness so you have side marker lights so people can see you at night.
When it comes to safety non-lighted reflectors just don't cut it, plus on top of that side markers that don't light up seem silly to me.
There is probably a guy around the forums here you could trade a 67-68 for a 69-72 harness if you don't have one or can't get one localy.
Also I noticed you did a ton of cutting all at once and partialy removed the floor and the Inner rockers simultaniously and didn't weld in any braces before hand.
The cab geometry (Square) can potentialy change on you with that much metal removed at once.
Things that can happen are the cab corners can move in or out and up and down, it can "twist", it can do all kinds of crazy things that you would have to put it on a frame table to correct.
Be very careful that your fit and fair doesn't go out of wack between the "A" and "B" pilar on both sides or your doors won't fit right and you will have a nightmare on your hands because you will have to cut it all back out and start over, don't say I didn't warn you it's very important that you get this right.
I realize you didn't know that because you aren't a body or frame man which is why im telling you.
I would have told you earlier but I didn't know you were going to do that, and I hate to worry you but it's far better you know this now rather than later when you find out the geometry is out of wack.
I've got my fingers crossed that it's still good.
Keep on truckin!

I have not purchased the wiring harness yet. But indeed I will up grade to the 69/72

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by gdavis

I have not purchased the wiring harness yet. But indeed I will up grade to the 69/72

I had a friend to come over and we measured the door openings on his truck and they were 35 inch and we measured mine and both door were 35 to the letter. I hope they stay that way. keep your fingers crossed

[gdavis]

Today I installed the automatic transmission hump and wire wheeled and grind the welds and primed it. Tomorrow I hope to tackle the rust under the rain gutter on the driver side door.

[gdavis]

Also I got the rubber around the vent window today. A friend came by today and he needed a turn signal switch, but had none. So as we were looking thru his truck he found the rubbers and gave them to me. It saved me a few dollars.
tomorrow I will go and get the doors from him that came off the cab and see how far off I am from 35 inches
I also primed the crowl

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Do you have a better pics of the rust damage of your hood?
While your back getting all the sheet metal replacement parts they might have a spec guide for the measurements of the cab, gaps and such.

Your an animal,, keep it up.

No I covered the bad spots up with tiger hair. I am going to sand them down tomorrow if I have time.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

good progress for you. ill measure my cab for you if you need me to. pm me.

Thanks I got the measurements from a friend and his was 35 so I am on the mark. But thanks for asking.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

In situations of welding in difficult places I start out just a tack weld at a time. Takes a lot longer but ends up being easier. As for the measurements of your year of cab I don't know specifically. Not sure if an assembly manual would have that information. Since I stretched my cab I basically used the A pillar and front cab roof line and the door to move and make (what I felt) was an acceptable gap between panels.
You may want to just tack panels into place before committing to a full out welded in place to test fit your doors and rockers.
Your doing great so far. Just take an extra moment to check then go back to your 110 mph. Your flyin through this build

I tried the welding tip that you said. And it seams to work tell you more tomorrow.

[Bomp]

Really good to hear the cab is staying still. Makes me wish I had more day light. Working 4am-4:30 and not getting home til 5:30 cuts into working on the truck.
Your doing great work!

[jonny..2008]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Really good to hear the cab is staying still. Makes me wish I had more day light. Working 4am-4:30 and not getting home til 5:30 cuts into working on the truck.
Your doing great work!

i feel you on this. just got home (its 7 pm here). still have to eat. then i better get in the driveway and get to work. because as great as it is, the truck just wont seem to fix itself.....

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Really good to hear the cab is staying still. Makes me wish I had more day light. Working 4am-4:30 and not getting home til 5:30 cuts into working on the truck.
Your doing great work!

I went over to a friend's house and got the orginal door that come off the cab. But My spacers that go between the hinge and the truck don;t line up. is there something i am doing wrong. I started to get upset so i took a break. I did not get to work to much on the truck today. A lot of runing around had to be done.
But I did manage to prime the front of the truck and sanded the hood.

[gdavis]

more pic. also primed the inside of cab roof.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

i feel you on this. just got home (its 7 pm here). still have to eat. then i better get in the driveway and get to work. because as great as it is, the truck just wont seem to fix itself.....

sometimes I wish I still worked. It seams that I work harder being retired. But at least I can stop and sit down when I am tired.

[gdavis]

today I did not tackle the rust under the rain gutter. I will tomorrow.

[gdavis]

Is there any difference between the ball joints in a 68 drum to a 72 disk brakes.
I hope to get my new 72 frame over here this week. I am going to use parts off the 72 to make my truck have disk brakes . So I hope the ball joints are the same. Someone said that they think the ball joints are a little longer for disk brakes.

[jonny..2008]

there are more guys here who are more knowledgeable than i.
BUT i did have to switch the upper and lower ball to get '77 spindles on.
dont forget to check lug nut sizes too. i missed that.
also check tie rod end taper for disc spindles. i changed them 'cause they were cheap (bought 77 ones to match the spindles) but not sure if the taper is the same. i know the adjuster is different between 69 and 77.

[Bomp]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Is there any difference between the ball joints in a 68 drum to a 72 disk brakes.
I hope to get my new 72 frame over here this week. I am going to use parts off the 72 to make my truck have disk brakes . So I hope the ball joints are the same. Someone said that they think the ball joints are a little longer for disk brakes.

Not sure what to think of the spacer between the hinge and truck. If it came off it should go back on. You may be experiencing some "Murphys Law".
Can you use the a arms and everything? Convert the whole thing over all at once? I would think the only difference would be if one is a 3/4 ton vs a 1/2 ton. Don't quote me on that though.
I pulled the front cross member out of my '66/a arms/spindles/everything all at once and stuck in a '79. Only had to drill two holes.
Might try asking a reputable parts store. If you get someone nice they should be helpful on a question like that.
Good Luck. For running around not getting anything done, you sure got alot done.

[jonny..2008]

there is an faq on the drum to disc swap. after my walk ill link it here.
pretty sure you'll need new ball joints and the reason will be the size of the taper.

[jonny..2008]

go here and click the one that applies to you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

[Xeen]

Yeah the stud is longer on the 1971-72 upper and lower ball joint which is what you will need. Heres a little trivia for you, front Disc brakes became standard in 1971.
Heres where it gets interesting though both the 1971 and 1972 came standard with front Disc however the brake lines are routed completely different between both years, so you will need to use the 1972 crossmember or relocate your brake hose mounting tabs and buy this aftermarket kit to mount the rear brake lines.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Remova...ose,45896.html
Basically you need to commit to using the 1972 brake system.