K30 Downgrade to Cummins Project

[Vintage Windmills]

I think I'm going to rebuild the tranny since its so convenient now and there may be some wear on the synchros. Hopefully I can get the shop to also clean up the bellhousing and adapter plate, they have a lot of crud on them.

[Vintage Windmills]

Attached is a list of all the engine work done as part of the rebuild by Dieselwrencher. Can't remember if I ever posted this. All parts were genuine cummins parts unless noted.

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

No, inches past the frame rail it goes to 4” all the way back. My theory was the outlet in the turbo is smaller than 4” so going this route isn’t a bottle neck. Then as the temp cools the velocity of the gasses slows so I stepped it to 4” to keep back pressure down, with 5x12s and the he351 I’ve yet to get over 1100 degrees trying to make it run hot

Not sure I can fit 4" between the frame and tcase. I'm also running 5x12's but with an HX35W.

[Madkidd007]

Well just how much suspension lift will you have? I think you’re doing a 4wd. My pipe actually goes over the frame between it and the inner fender with some clearancing. And it runs tight against the firewall and under the floor pan all the way back

[Vintage Windmills]

This is a 4x4 with a dana 60 up front. No lift per se. Thats whats making this build a bit more involved than most cummins swaps in squarebody's. I'll be using the existing air bag setup in the rear and adding one up front but when the truck isn't running or is cruising on the interstate it will be at stock height.

[Vintage Windmills]

Some more parts for the truck. Good to have gauges to protect this investment. I'm looking for a good guage pod. The one here with boost gage was from the W350 dodge donor.

Shown here are ISSPRO pryrometer, boost gage, and trans temp. I think I need to find a sender for the trans temp one. Also ARP bolts for the flywheel.

[Vintage Windmills]

List of things to do soon:

- Buy reman starter and return the wrong one I got for a 2nd gen.
- Return used alternator for core charge refund
- Finish welding on trans x member and paint it
- Paint newly done engine x members
- Find a new dipstick and or tube (its not sealing, its loose around the handle
- Figure out how to install the clutch pedal setup or if its easier to just fab one up and
use dodge clutch master cylinder.
- Wait for new steering box to arrive (old one had side to side play on output shaft
- Weld on steering box brace once it arrives
- Drop and clean fuel tanks
- Replace rubber sections of fuel lines
- Figure out which downpipe setup to buy
- Call diesewrencher about getting the heater lines that bolt to manifold and towhooks
(or you could just email me back Ryan lol)
- Get the shop to give me a price on Getrag rebuild and info on the quality of their parts
- Clean old crud off bellhousing and adapter plate- yuck
- Order intercooler piping and elbows
- Finish welding and paint custom engine accesory brackets
- mount new engine accessories
- Install front airlift bags

Yep a lot to do. Tell me its worth it! So much to do and still more to spend.

[randy500]

Its definitely worth it and I think you will be very proud of it when its on the road.

I used 1st gen dodge diamond eye 4" exhaust on my truck. I cut and clocked a few straight sections, one by the trans before the transfer case and one over the axle and one tailpipe bend.
It cleared the transfer case and frame which is the tightest spot.
Nice exhaust for about $300.
You have the low mount turbo so maybe a little more work and you will need a turbo flange I think.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by randy500

Its definitely worth it and I think you will be very proud of it when its on the road.

I used 1st gen dodge diamond eye 4" exhaust on my truck. I cut and clocked a few straight sections, one by the trans before the transfer case and one over the axle and one tailpipe bend.
It cleared the transfer case and frame which is the tightest spot.
Nice exhaust for about $300.
You have the low mount turbo so maybe a little more work and you will need a turbo flange I think.

Thanks for the info Randy. What do you mean by turbo flange? There is a Vband groove on my turbo and the downpipe has one as well. I think I just need to figure out the sizing convention to make sure the downpipe fits the flange on the HX35W.

I got the sidemarkers for the 70 CST, they look good thank you!

[Vintage Windmills]

Adding a couple more things to the to do list:
- figure out rear springs (how rough will the 9 leaf ones ride).
- determine what is wrong with rear brakes or depending on spring decision,
swap in AAM 11.5 rear axle after rebuilding the brakes on it.
- redo core support, mounts for radiator and intercooler
- condenser mounting (may need a shorter one than 94-97 dodge (hitting hood
latch currently).
- find a dual battery tray for driver side
- equip truck with cruise control?
- add ring and tach sensor to engine

[randy500]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Thanks for the info Randy. What do you mean by turbo flange? There is a Vband groove on my turbo and the downpipe has one as well. I think I just need to figure out the sizing convention to make sure the downpipe fits the flange on the HX35W.

I got the sidemarkers for the 70 CST, they look good thank you!

Happy the marker lights went to good use and your happy with them.
By turbo flange I did mean v-band and the hx35 has the same mount as the first gen exhaust so your good. 3” v-band I think.

[Vintage Windmills]

Some more pics of engine bay fab work below. Even made a couple of different mounting hole sets in the removable engine Xmember in case I want more clearance. Also note the frame mod by the power steering pump on driver side frame rail.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by randy500

Happy the marker lights went to good use and your happy with them.
By turbo flange I did mean v-band and the hx35 has the same mount as the first gen exhaust so your good. 3” v-band I think.

Sounds good thanks for the size info.

[Vintage Windmills]

Lost a couple days due to the basement flooding. Had a snow dam in the backyard and it ran in under the patio door on thurs am. Had to skip work on Thurs and move everthing out and pull the carpet and pad, they will be tossed since they were 20 years old. What a pain.

On sat I was able to worked on rebuilding the clutch and brake pedal setup. Had to weld up the stud that the clutch rod connects to and regrind it back to a nice round shape. I ordered a set of new plastic bushings for pedal pivots even though the used set looked pretty good. I've also decided to put a new hydroboost unit on since the old one was leaking pretty good apparently and its unbolted now. I've also detected some play in the lower steering column bearing so I ordered a new bearing for that. Looks like it will have to come out anyways to get the clutch pedal setup in. Man this project went down the slope of replacing a ton of stuff! At least I know it will be better and hopefully more reliable on road trips/hauls.

I did finish welding on the trans xmember so thats good.

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

On sat I was able to worked on rebuilding the clutch and brake pedal setup. Had to weld up the stud that the clutch rod connects to and regrind it back to a nice round shape.

That is what is holding me up on my NV4500 swap. That stud is just trashed and I haven't been able to find a replacement pedal or stud anywhere.

[Vintage Windmills]

Lost a week or two due to a flooded basement and then a failed water softener.

Back at the brake pedal setup rebuild and steering system rebuild.

[Dieselwrencher]

You should like that redhead box. I've put a lot of them on dodges with no issues.

[Vintage Windmills]

Good to hear, Ryan.

So I bought a XJ jeep steering shaft but its got a very slight amount of play that I can feel. I'm wondering if i should look for another or if there's a way to rebush it. Its almost no play but I can feel just a tad if i put one end in the vice and grasp the other. Thoughts?

[Dieselwrencher]

If it is already loose I'd just get a new one unfortunately. I haven't seen where anyone offers replacement u-joints for them. You'd probably have to do some machine work to put a new u-joint in those yokes because if I remember correctly they peen those yokes to lock the caps in. Ebay has the best prices on them from what I have seen.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Steer...ts=Make%3AJeep

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Good to hear, Ryan.

So I bought a XJ jeep steering shaft but its got a very slight amount of play that I can feel. I'm wondering if i should look for another or if there's a way to rebush it. Its almost no play but I can feel just a tad if i put one end in the vice and grasp the other. Thoughts?

I’ve heard of the swap before. But help me understand besides going from a rag joint to a ujoint what is the benefit?

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

I’ve heard of the swap before. But help me understand besides going from a rag joint to a ujoint what is the benefit?

I think that's it. Its supposed to give a tighter more responsive feel.

[Vintage Windmills]

Where should the breather tube route? On my engine its shooting down between the starter and the block but its making it super hard to get that starter bolt in. I feel like it should go ahead of the starter but the plate with outlet elbow on the side of the engine is aimed for the starter

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

I think that's it. Its supposed to give a tighter more responsive feel.

I got ya. Just curious. My 37s on 20s felt good with a cobbled up mix between my original and a square body shaft. I thought it may have been something to do with angles with the Jeep shaft

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

If it is already loose I'd just get a new one unfortunately. I haven't seen where anyone offers replacement u-joints for them. You'd probably have to do some machine work to put a new u-joint in those yokes because if I remember correctly they peen those yokes to lock the caps in. Ebay has the best prices on them from what I have seen.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Steer...ts=Make%3AJeep

Borgeson makes a drop-in replacement for the XJ with heavy-duty shafts and u-joints. Theoretically it should then drop into our trucks.

https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/produ...cat=112&page=1

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

Borgeson makes a drop-in replacement for the XJ with heavy-duty shafts and u-joints. Theoretically it should then drop into our trucks.

https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/produ...cat=112&page=1

Yep, I was looking at that one on ebay for a couple weeks. Just thought it may be overkill for my truck since I'm not planning on offroading this rig much. This guy has them a bit cheaper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Borgeson-00...53.m1438.l2649

[Vintage Windmills]

A bit behind on posting updates.

-Southbend clutch, southbend flywheel, cleaned adapter plate, torqued all and new starter installed
-Engine bay cleaned up, fenders painted, firewall sealant touched up
-new hydroboost on
-pedal swap finished
-redhead steering box mounted and steering column remounted
-engine mounts and xmember tightened down

Still need to mount clutch and brake MC's.