49 GMC Five Window

[oldman3]

Sweeeeeeet...Jim

[e015475]

After I get this truck running up and down the street, the next big project will be the AC - hopefully I can get it functional before the heat hits in May.

I want to run Vintage Air, but that system they hang below the dash isn't in keeping with the 'retro' look I like.

Old Air sells a center vent that uses the radio grill, but a call to them reveals that the AC controls are part of the center vent option and I'd have to switch to their system to get it.

I've recently got access to a waterjet and am trying to learn 2D CAD well enough to use it, so I thought I'd try and design my own center vent I can use with the Vintage air.






I laid the dash, grill and some aftermarket AC vents out in CAD and cut the vent holder out on the waterjet today.

Here's a trial fit of the parts viewed from the back. the aluminum plate holding the vents will be behind the dash and held in with the fasteners on the radio grill



Here's a view from the front of the grill - I'll paint everything flat black so it won't be so conspicuous on the cab side



Still trying to work out how to move the louvers on the vents to redirect air in the cab (my experience in Arizona is that I usually leave the vents in one position all year long and just run the fan up or down to my comfort level, so I may not put in any adjustment at all and just 'set it and forget it')

Here's the vents I bought from Old Air Products


The waterjet aluminum holder - I'll tip the top and bottom to match the contour of the dash


The truck's grill was never meant for passing air and the backside is just the rough stamping. To make it a bit more 'aerodynamic' I'm going to epoxy some 3/16" steel rod to the back of the speaker grill.



Suggestions for improvements always welcome

[8man]

Good plan.

[joedoh]

thats a good tip, putting the rod in as an air director!

[e015475]

Filled the truck with fluids and crossed off the last of my 'to-do' list for stuff that needed to be done before I could fire it up for the first time. The first time it has seen the light of day in about ten months.



But no love and no start. Cranks nice though.

When I started this project more than four years ago, one of the first things I did was send the engine harness out for rework. The guy was supposed to edit out the VATS from the PCM, install a fuse block and relays and delete unnecessary wires. Foolishly, I assumed he knew what he was doing and didn't check the power and ground side of his work, (but I did a pin-out of all the wiring coming out of the PCM to the engine since I'd shortened/lengthened a lot of wires)

When I tried to start it yesterday the fuel pump wouldn't come on and there was a buzzing noise from one of the relays on the fuse block. It had been wired so that one of the 5V sensor reference voltage off the PCM was being used to energize the fuel pump relay - WTF? With only 5V the relay wouldn't close and it just buzzed and wouldn't latch.

Looks like I need to take a step back and map the power distribution wiring on the engine harness and get it working correctly. Should have done this before I installed it.

[joedoh]

man I get so disappointed when something I paid good money for, from an expert, doesnt work.

can you jumper just to check a start? not ideal I know because if you have a fuel leak its important to get the relay shut off immediately with a key...

[Lonewolf55]

Originally Posted by e015475

I haven't yet figured out how I'm going to make the speedometer work. The WC T5 I used has a tailshaft from a V8 Camaro but the housing is from an S10 to move the shifter forward in the cab. Shifter location looks good, but now I don't have a way to drive the speedometer cable.

If you don't have that figured yet you can just move the gear on the mainshaft. Drill a new hole using a 1/8 carbide bit, shim the shaft and use the stock retaining clip.

[e015475]

Joedoh-

Whatever's wrong with the wiring is going to have to get fixed anyway. Getting in a hurry is just going to get me in trouble so I better fix it instead of crutching it to say it runs. It has been five years in the making, so another week won't kill me.

Lonewolf-

I think the tailshaft housing for my T5 is for a reluctor wheel, not a cable. I couldn't find a S10 housing with a gear driven speedo anywhere.

[joedoh]

I guess my thought was run a jumper and see if it starts. if you fix the fuel pump wiring and it still doesnt start you are looking for a second problem after clearing the first. potato potatto.

[e015475]

It starts - sorta.

A precautionary tale - you can't always believe what you read on the internet.

Looked up the image of the Corvette fuel pressure regulator on the web and plumbed it the way it showed.

I had lots of fuel pressure and volume, but no pressure at the rail. Back to the internet and I'll be damned if there isn't several different diagrams on how to plumb the Corvette regulator, and about half of them are wrong! I picked the wrong one, of course. I rented a fuel pressure tester from Autozone - that thing didn't work either. It would read pressure on my pickup (same engine) but when I added the 90 degree adapter so I could test the rail on the '49 - nothing. Took the Schrader valves out - still nothing. ARGH! Finally pulled the alternator so I didn't have to use the adapter and it showed I have pressure at the rail. Finally

Got the regulator plumbed correctly now. Tried to start and it would run for several seconds before it died, like the VATS hadn't been deleted. I'd paid to have the VATS edited out of the computer five years ago when I had the harness built (yep, same guy who mis-wired the ground). Yanked out the PCM and took it to the tuner, and he confirmed the VATS was still in there. $100 and ten minutes at the tuner had the VATS deleted and the truck PCM modified to turn on the electric cooling fan at 195F. Should be ok to allow me to limp down to the tuner's shop

When it did fire for a few seconds, it wasn't running very well and several of the header primaries were cold. I bought the injectors used and they'd been sitting for more than five years and chances are they were pretty sticky. A local fuel injection service gave them an ultrasonic bath, replaced the internal filters and orings, then calibrated them so they all flowed the same.

Raining and nasty here in Phoenix. Saturday looks like the next opportunity to push it outside and try again to fire it up

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by e015475

It starts - sorta.

A precautionary tale - you can't always believe what you read on the internet.

Looked up the image of the Corvette fuel pressure regulator on the web and plumbed it the way it showed.

I had lots of fuel pressure and volume, but no pressure at the rail. Back to the internet and I'll be damned if there isn't several different diagrams on how to plumb the Corvette regulator, and about half of them are wrong! I picked the wrong one, of course. I rented a fuel pressure tester from Autozone - that thing didn't work either. It would read pressure on my pickup (same engine) but when I added the 90 degree adapter so I could test the rail on the '49 - nothing. Took the Schrader valves out - still nothing. ARGH! Finally pulled the alternator so I didn't have to use the adapter and it showed I have pressure at the rail. Finally

Got the regulator plumbed correctly now. Tried to start and it would run for several seconds before it died, like the VATS hadn't been deleted. I'd paid to have the VATS edited out of the computer five years ago when I had the harness built (yep, same guy who mis-wired the ground). Yanked out the PCM and took it to the tuner, and he confirmed the VATS was still in there. $100 and ten minutes at the tuner had the VATS deleted and the truck PCM modified to turn on the electric cooling fan at 195F. Should be ok to allow me to limp down to the tuner's shop

When it did fire for a few seconds, it wasn't running very well and several of the header primaries were cold. I bought the injectors used and they'd been sitting for more than five years and chances are they were pretty sticky. A local fuel injection service gave them an ultrasonic bath, replaced the internal filters and orings, then calibrated them so they all flowed the same.

Raining and nasty here in Phoenix. Saturday looks like the next opportunity to push it outside and try again to fire it up

I had a similar experience with gummed up injectors from a motor that sat. What a difference once I had them cleaned. I need to send the set out for my current build. Good luck this weekend if you get a chance to get back at it.

Marc

[e015475]

If injectors haven't sat for too long or were drained of fuel when removed, I've had good luck standing them up in a pan with about a quarter inch of Seafoam then pouring Seafoam in the inlet and letting it sit for a few days before installing them.

I didn't know the history of these injectors so I thought it best to have them professionally done. $18 per injector.

Next issue is the power steering rack. I had it rebuilt nearly six years ago and it's not been used. Filled it with PS fluid and it leaks like a sieve. Had a 'lifetime' guarantee.

Called the shop. He's still in business. Asked him about the guarantee and he said "You weren't supposed to leave it sit for six years - all the seals have dried up" and then he said "bring it down and we'll get it sealed up again for you" Wow. Someone who answers the phone, speaks so I can understand him and offers to make it right. Gotta love it, even if the rack is NFG.

[joedoh]

ha! when I was reading and you said it leaked like a sieve, I said to myself "of course it does, all the seals are probably dried up". and then you said he said it too.

congrats on the start!

[e015475]

I had my first drive of a couple miles up and down the street in the neighborhood last weekend

I can't figure out how to post videos here, but here's a couple of links to the AD Trucks Facebook site showing the first drive

https://www.facebook.com/phil.dooley...l5NChLex6vzE1F

And another one....
https://www.facebook.com/phil.dooley...yXOTQC3f_9kcnY

Sorry - didn't clean the dust off of it before I took it down the street. If you turn up the volume on the video, you can hear an awful racket when the truck is coming down the street and my wife asking Wyatt "what's that awful noise?"


I seem to have a lot of air in the power steering/hydroboost and the pump is making a lot of noise. I bleed it by jacking the front end up and running the steering lock to lock probably a couple hundred times with the engine off. It got better, but it was still noisy after driving it a couple of miles and when I'd engage the brakes, they'd hang up for a bit after I let off the pedal.

A couple of youtube videos suggested drawing a vacuum on the system to get the air out. I made this contraption out of a sewer pipe connector, PVC pipe, hose clamps and my Mityvac. So far I've only tried it without the engine running, but Wyatt will be over tomorrow and I'll run the motor while there's vacuum in the reservoir and see if I can get the air out.

[IMG][/IMG]

The Camaro shifter I modified to use in the truck was like a wet noodle, so I bought a Pro 5.0 shifter for it - much better

Trimmed the cover for the new shifter and put some slots in so I could clear the stops on the new shifter.


I bought a OBD2 reader that plugs into my diagnostic port and transmits data via bluetooth to my phone. There were no unexpected codes and my fuel trims looked good. I was pretty amazed. This gives me a backup to my mechanical water temp and speedometer too. Amazing tool for about $22

After I get the air out of the power steering, it looks like the next big problems to solve are all about noise.

My truck sounds like a shop vac coming down the street because the big Spal fan is running all the time at full speed. Need to do something to vary the fan speed with heat load. Looking into a PWM controller.

The fan is noisy when the truck is coming at you, but as it goes past you can hear the fuel pumps running - so it sounds like hell coming and going. Wish I hadn't been so stubborn about wanting an external fuel pump now. I have some foam collars and I'm going to try quieting it down by wrapping it.

If I get the air out of the power steering tomorrow, I'll drive it to the gas station for a few dollars of gas.

Bought another project and drug it home - a 1955 MG -TF. Rolling chassis and lots of new parts. Rebuilding parts of the wood structure and getting ready to make some doors on the English wheel. Wooden door frames means you have the start the bodywork with rebuilding the wood structure and sanding it smooth to accept the metal door skin

[mongocanfly]

Congrats on the drive....your videos say "link is broken" when I clicked them

[8man]

Congratulations!

[joedoh]

woop woop!

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by e015475

I had my first drive of a couple miles up and down the street in the neighborhood last weekend

I can't figure out how to post videos here, but here's a couple of links to the AD Trucks Facebook site showing the first drive

https://www.facebook.com/phil.dooley...l5NChLex6vzE1F

And another one....
https://www.facebook.com/phil.dooley...yXOTQC3f_9kcnY

Sorry - didn't clean the dust off of it before I took it down the street. If you turn up the volume on the video, you can hear an awful racket when the truck is coming down the street and my wife asking Wyatt "what's that awful noise?"


I seem to have a lot of air in the power steering/hydroboost and the pump is making a lot of noise. I bleed it by jacking the front end up and running the steering lock to lock probably a couple hundred times with the engine off. It got better, but it was still noisy after driving it a couple of miles and when I'd engage the brakes, they'd hang up for a bit after I let off the pedal.

A couple of youtube videos suggested drawing a vacuum on the system to get the air out. I made this contraption out of a sewer pipe connector, PVC pipe, hose clamps and my Mityvac. So far I've only tried it without the engine running, but Wyatt will be over tomorrow and I'll run the motor while there's vacuum in the reservoir and see if I can get the air out.

[IMG][/IMG]

The Camaro shifter I modified to use in the truck was like a wet noodle, so I bought a Pro 5.0 shifter for it - much better

Trimmed the cover for the new shifter and put some slots in so I could clear the stops on the new shifter.


I bought a OBD2 reader that plugs into my diagnostic port and transmits data via bluetooth to my phone. There were no unexpected codes and my fuel trims looked good. I was pretty amazed. This gives me a backup to my mechanical water temp and speedometer too. Amazing tool for about $22

After I get the air out of the power steering, it looks like the next big problems to solve are all about noise.

My truck sounds like a shop vac coming down the street because the big Spal fan is running all the time at full speed. Need to do something to vary the fan speed with heat load. Looking into a PWM controller.

The fan is noisy when the truck is coming at you, but as it goes past you can hear the fuel pumps running - so it sounds like hell coming and going. Wish I hadn't been so stubborn about wanting an external fuel pump now. I have some foam collars and I'm going to try quieting it down by wrapping it.

If I get the air out of the power steering tomorrow, I'll drive it to the gas station for a few dollars of gas.

Bought another project and drug it home - a 1955 MG -TF. Rolling chassis and lots of new parts. Rebuilding parts of the wood structure and getting ready to make some doors on the English wheel. Wooden door frames means you have the start the bodywork with rebuilding the wood structure and sanding it smooth to accept the metal door skin

Do you have a link to the OBD2 reader?

[e015475]

There's two things needed - the OBD port reader and an app for your phone.

The OBD2 port reader is a BAFX product - www.bafxpro.com

The reader was about $22 on Amazon.

The second part is the app. "Torque" is a free app for your phone that will display codes and PID gauges. There's also a "Torque Pro" version for about $5 that will enable data logging and some other functions. So far, "Torque" works just fine.

[84blaze]

Loving the detail!

[e015475]

My power steering problems seem to be behind me after I changed from the Trailblazer/big truck Saginaw Type 2 pump to the "P" ham-can pump for the half ton trucks.

Here's the new pump and bracket with the reservoir modified to relocate the return from the rack and hydroboost.



It bled quickly and the noise I had before is gone. I changed the PSF to Delco from the O'Reilly's house brand too just in case that made a difference.

Drove it about ten miles last weekend - no issues other than the cab has no seals or sound deadening and it is kind of noisy. The five speed is a lot of fun and the hydroboost will put you through the window.

First bath in the driveway..........



Back in the shop and clay-barring the paint and applying first coat of carnuba wax. There's a 'cars and coffee' next Saturday morning, and I'm planning on taking it even though the interior isn't in it yet.

I really need to start driving it a bit every day and keep working the bugs out. Pushed the '49 out of the shop and pushed my next project in - 1955 MG TF

[mongocanfly]

yep ...just as I expected...a real beaut sitting outdoors..

[oldman3]

Looking great...Jim

[joedoh]

thats a stunner!

[SalvagedSouls]

Beautiful truck and well detailed build! Thank you for documenting your project.

Because of this build I have purchased a Jag IRS for my truck. At some point I will probably be reaching out to you with a few questions regarding your air bag setup.