Build that 71 402 already

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

This thread could double as a drafting class.

Question - How do you punch / mark the hole to keep your drill bit in position?

BTW, this is the epitome of perfectionism right here...

Attachment 2005976

Thank you, I just saw this message. I didn't drill, the body/paint dude did, I was there for moral support....Kidding, but he was drill guy. He took it very slowly with my 9.6 Mikita drill. Here's what we did:

Discover hole placement: Boy if I had to do this all over again

Center punch. If for some reason it drifts punch it again & again. Ask me how I know.

1/8" drill bit for the larger holes & oil. Smaller bit for tap screws.

We finished drilling the holes with a step bit.

Like mentioned before this job didn't go perfect, we missed on some requiring corrections. Worst of it we a missed for the tailgate handle on an already base-coated ochre tailgate, and turns out two spots for the tail bezels for the same because the drill drifted. This bed had full moldings before someone welded up the holes, so we were drilling through welds. Found some old bezel clips in the welds too, so I know we nailed some On top of that one of the holes in the base-coat chipped around a bezel hole. Josh is a blessing, he fixed that and luck has it the area required a white coat anyway. I guess the moral of the story is bring patience.

Edit: I've read it's a good idea to tape finished surfaces if you have to drill. In hindsight we probably should have. Then again, in double hindsight at least the rear should have been drilled before any paint. Lucky for us the bed sides drilled cleanly. Only the bed and tailgate had a base coat. Good thing too, I found five spots in the doors and fenders that have to be re-drilled.

I just finished a write-up on the moldings from other angles, which took way too long Long story short I'd like to see slight drops in the RH door and fender for final. While the post above says the top rear of the upper fender molding is 4" below the top of the panel, the other fender was 4.1/16", and we'll end up running with that on both sides. My C20 mostly agrees, but then again, the factory installed them

Have to say the fenders and doors are really well made. I've measured too many places, gave me a headache

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Must be approaching six years on this project. Hoping to finish next year, but I have to say a lot is piling on toward the homestretch or rather more/less phase three.

Anyway, third and last batch of black zinc plating right. I'm at the mercy of black hardware on this. The batch included a handful of original bolts & bumper nuts, some unexposed original parts, replacement hardware such as for body cushions and an exhaust option, and an embarrassing amount of spare hardware I'll never use to make their $65 batch price worth while. So probably more like $130

Anyway, I get home, open the box, couldn't believe my eyes, depression sets in, deep regret

I dodged a bullet. The only original bolts are for the bed extensions behind the wheel well, and they're just as black as the surface and some see paint anyway. Worked out, but I'd never choose this finish on purpose. It's the 3rd batch they did for me, I didn't think to ask about color or sheen, and neither did they. This batch is too dark and glossy for my taste.


Interesting read various hardware finishes. In a nutshell GMs zinc phosphate is ideal for paint or powder coat, while zinc plating would have to be removed.

I've read two opinions zinc plating Vs zinc phosphate. One says zinc phosphate is more durable some reason. The second I'm more inclined to believe, which is zinc plating begins to break down first, but it's a sacrificial finish and the part will outlast an unpainted zinc phosphate part.

IMO both finishes leave lots to be desired, same with oxide. The finishes rub right off with a scrub pad, though somehow it varies, even the same batch. The bolt heads on this last batch of zinc plating stand up very well to scrub pads, yet it takes the finish off the flat washers, and even store bought yellow zinc no problem.

It's easy to see why people like stainless or?...........From what little I know, if l had my druthers they'd all be ARP quality. Still black oxide of some sort, but if anyone figured out a durable finish it would be them. It's chromoly anyway.

[DeadheadNM]

I seem to recall that zinc phosphate produced a glossy finish whereas manganese phosphate produced a flat, matte black finish. I believe the latter was typically used for GM fasteners etc. Is it possible your batches are a mix of zinc and manganese?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

I seem to recall that zinc phosphate produced a glossy finish whereas manganese phosphate produced a flat, matte black finish. I believe the latter was typically used for GM fasteners etc. Is it possible your batches are a mix of zinc and manganese?

You could be right, and I once believed so, but I'm more inclined to believe most were zinc phosphate. Here's a site ddentifying the differences, I put their info. into captions. I looked at some of the old bolts on my un-restored C20, where I can get past the rust I can read the markings clearly. Still doesn't mean the manganese didn't wear off. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/new_page_26.htm

Come to think of it, I have some NOS bolts, I'll pull them out later, take a picture.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Well Deadhead, I'm a little stumped on this one. You're right assuming the original bolts were say a much lighter manganese than the pictures and parts I have available. Per that website post 180, manganese is less than desirable. Could explain why inner fender bolts bust right, which is where I'm using the NOS in the pics. below

The images are of NOS bolts, and a comparison to a replacement bolt that's clearly Manganese. The picture doesn't illustrate the difference between the two. I can see light crystals on the NOS bolts, but only under direct light, even with my glasses on. The replacement bolt is heavily crystaled, easy to make out and there's a heavy sandy feel to it.

I blew-up the example of zinc phosphate in post 180, seems I can make out some crystals. Their description isn't clear where it reads "doesn't have the heavy crystallization of Manganese", can't tell if that means light or no crystals at all.

[DeadheadNM]

Interesting- now I’ve got to go look at mine. I thought Mn offered better corrosion protection but I may be mistaken. My trucks are living a gentle retirement so the oem Mn will do fine.

I looked into regalvanizing my oem fuel tank in the blazer. Apparently that’s akin to clear zinc somehow but results in larger crystals. Only mentioning because I wonder if crystal size can vary based on chemical milieu and/or temperature at time/place of plating.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Interesting- now I’ve got to go look at mine. I thought Mn offered better corrosion protection but I may be mistaken. My trucks are living a gentle retirement so the oem Mn will do fine.

I looked into regalvanizing my oem fuel tank in the blazer. Apparently that’s akin to clear zinc somehow but results in larger crystals. Only mentioning because I wonder if crystal size can vary based on chemical milieu and/or temperature at time/place of plating.

I don't know, but I'd sure like to see more of a certain blue Blazer someone owns

Agree, sat in the garage will probably outlast us just fine

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Used this fiberglass polish on one side of the evaporator box, the other needs some prep yet to paint the steel parts. I won't even swear this stuff is made for this, but from here I'm real happy with it.

I wiped it all off with a clean cloth, otherwise there would be more sheen. I'm looking for a conditioner as opposed a shine, and IMO this does that. Unless it's left on thick any discoloration will show (light areas). I could hide that with near any kind of shine for vinyl and that, but I like the idea of some imperfection representing how old this stuff is, it will match the stain on the glass of the rear view mirror

No affiliation It's not cheap, though there's plenty of it. It's like a frosting, not oily, but feels like it as you're buffing. Forgot to mention, I hit it three times & wiped it clean with a day or so in-between. Figured the third time was a waste, but it was worth the effort.

[IronCanine]

Looks good. Solid tip.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I've had this Masterseries/Mastercoat lying around, and found an excuse for it on the tie rods. Seems the finish on the rods was a decent phosphate, but everything else was black so what the heck.

I didn't follow quite to the letter, but super nice stuff. IMO I wouldn't even attempt the primer coat without thinner. The top coat applies nicely with a sponge brush, a monkey could do it, though I can't speak for a large area. Stuff is TOXIC, I can't imagine painting an entire frame with it less using a sprayer.

I used the primer on something I've since removed.........I'll bet it's the toughest primer available. Four hours labor where paint & powder coat would take 15 minutes.

Funny looking "satin" though, I'd hate to see what the gloss looks like. May have been an error.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I used the top coat on the front bed panel bolts, no primer no problem. All the other bolts were painted. Speak of tough stuff, I don't know what his process for the underneath is, but it will outlast me easy. Needs a bath yet.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Cleaned up my steering wheel enough to see what I got, it's going to see some 3M product, very little sanding. Hard to believe there's 140K on it.

Just BSing, it's an early take-off. It's not perfect, I've never seen a steering wheel wear in this manner, both sides of spokes the same. It's the seller's idea of "no cracks", apparently lifting doesn't count Having received it I'd have bought it anyway, it's hard to dislike the rest.

Perhaps if I leave it alone it won't get worse during my time, this truck won't see much sun But I may patch it up with something black, such as JB weld. I'm not so sure patching is a preventive measure though. Another option might be melted plastic, other suggestions appreciated. The damage is on top, so something or nothing is sight unseen.

[DeadheadNM]

That’s a nice wheel. I’d like to scare up details on plastic polishing for these and tcase shift handles.

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

...But I may patch it up with something black, such as JB weld. I'm not so sure patching is a preventive measure though.

Tony I'm sure you know this...but JB Weld does make a "plastic" weld (#8237) that may be better suited for this, but it does not cure black. I'm sure in this area, some touch up paint would be unnoticeable.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Tony I'm sure you know this...but JB Weld does make a "plastic" weld (#8237) that may be better suited for this, but it does not cure black. I'm sure in this area, some touch up paint would be unnoticeable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

[IronCanine]

I'm sure either of those would work fine. I thought this would be easier/less messy:

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237...GASGH7WHQ7E85F

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

I'm sure either of those would work fine. I thought this would be easier/less messy:

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237...GASGH7WHQ7E85F

Nice to have choices.

Had this delivered today, and dropped off the cab platform and fenders. The cab is next. Going to be sweet building that cab while he's on doors and fenders. We had settled on a price too, what he quoted 5-6 years ago doesn't fly, and he didn't even mention it. Anyway, this grew bigger than both envisioned for sure, and I couldn't replace him. So today we settled on half again as much, and I still flashed an imaginary bonus number

[IronCanine]

Looks deep enough to swim in. Very nice.

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Nice to have choices.

Had this delivered today, and dropped off the cab platform and fenders. The cab is next. Going to be sweet building that cab while he's on doors and fenders. We had settled on a price too, what he quoted 5-6 years ago doesn't fly, and he didn't even mention it. Anyway, this grew bigger than both envisioned for sure, and I couldn't replace him. So today we settled on half again as much, and I still flashed an imaginary bonus number

You better put him on your Christmas list.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by davischevy

You better put him on your Christmas list.

He and this other guy, I just picked up some ceramic coat parts, cold process. They're a very clean finish. He's got the driveshaft & intermediate steering shaft to do yet. Next comes the balance of powder coat, and no shortage of it. It's coming together, someday ..Hope outlive it

So yeah, not strict factory right. A lot of black on Ochre, see what happens.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

So I'm in COVID quarantine right. My son and his gal tested positive Tuesday morning, we helped them move Monday and went to lunch

So I figure a good time to paint . I won't paint much, not set-up for a spray gun. K2 Spray max. meets my use, nice hard finish. Awfully expensive though, and doesn't go as far as you might hope for.

Speak of, maybe it's my eyes, but I can't paint worth a (*^)*^ in the sun. I had to hit more than a few pieces again, on time so all good. I sprayed the window regs and channels, ducts, module and some wire retainers for the engine bay.

[IronCanine]

Looks good.

Hope you stay well Tony. Best to your son and his girl too for a speedy recovery.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by ironcanine

looks good.

Hope you stay well tony. Best to your son and his girl too for a speedy recovery.

x2

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Looks good.

Hope you stay well Tony. Best to your son and his girl too for a speedy recovery.

Thank you. She was sick with fever and that early Tues. morning. Felt much better since, still a cough. My son has had a scratchy throat, no other symptoms less his back hurts a pinch. As for my other son who's here and I no symptoms. I did feel poorly last weekend, but I ripped out concrete on Friday & Sat. too old for that &*%.

Tell you I love my C20. She was a low rider, took over an hour to dump it. I've used the heck out of it for yard & estate clean-up, something like 40 full I'll bet, I've only owned it 4-5 years - you never really appreciate how big a load they take until you dump it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I could use some motivation, what a 15 month ride man. On top of everything else I lost all three uncles since my mom & sister passed, and my step father some days ago too. Of all things the Lt. Col died "of COVID", which is BS, he'd have beaten that if he cared to. I haven't seen him since March, he was locked away by COVID in a care center for dementia and that. And without details because it's dirty, I didn't get to see him go either. You would not believe, some people are just plain vultures. I was a son to him, and he was a dear friend. We could always count on each other, he was my parent longer than my dad, and he offered things my father never could. He was my mother's love since childhood, and heaven sent too - timing.

So geez man, 3 months of smoke on top of it all, I'm near sure that's why my mom's dog went blind contributed. He's doing much better BTW, he can see and I tapered him off his meds. Losing weight though, we believe an immunity disorder.

So here I sit with a heater box I need to finish prepping, same with an air cleaner, same with half an evap. box etc. Fresh driveline I don't want to install, it's a 15 minute job.
They're all in the house staring at me for weeks, the beauty of being a bachelor. All I really want to do is play my drums and smoke, which I was supposed to have quit. Quit the smokes that is, drums takes me somewhere else.

I'll get out of this hole for sure, just waiting for a thrust.