1958 SWB C4 Fleetside - NZ Build

[Jason 56]

Looking great! Sucks that one trunion is messed up. Especially with your shipping distance. Did you end up changing all the bearings?

[QBRacing]

Jason.
I only changed the cam bearings as they really did look shot. Looking at the main and rods they looked like new so I just oiled them up and placed them back in as they may have been done previously (i dunno). The rings and oil scraper looked in super good nick too

And I LOVE SUMMIT.
They have just agreed to send me out another complete BTR trunion kit to replace the 1 damaged trunion and bearing shell and told me that because of the distance and freight costs not to worry about returning the kit once done (15 free tunions for later just incase) ..... score. I guess living so far away, in paradise, in the lower corner of the pacific does have its bonuses some times.

Insert VIDEO LINK HERE



Q

[QBRacing]

Think I've mentioned it earlier but I plan on using a 94-96 Cutlass column which had tilt steering, Auto on tree, and indicator with cruise.

When I started this a few weeks back there was a bolt already broken off in one of the pins so I had the local engineering shop get it out for me. After that I ended up buying in the special tool from Amazon to remove the pins and for the $10 freighted to my door it was well worth it.

The plan I come up with was to use the factory mounting style to mount the column to the truck dash but the cutlass column was a larger diameter.

I should have cut down the brackets and simply put a larger tube around both halves but by the time I thought that out I had already cut the outer bracketing of the column.

Might be time to refer to another video.

Now I just need to remove the lower bearing and the external fork bit to pull the tube which needs extending about 170mm so I can put it all back together.

If that dosn't make sence, watch the video

[QBRacing]

Ok

So my original Cutlass column ended up being no good as it had previously ben cut and welded (god knows why). I managed to get a couple more broken shafts from my importer and after some design speak with a hydraulic/steering company we come up with this solution.

Video showing the outcome

The attached pics show the shaft fully removed and exploded then the spring mechanism that stops rattle between the two pieces and how it all goes back together.

In this fashion the column can still collapse and is now truly serviceable

[QBRacing]

So its been a month but stuff has been happening slowly in the background and is about to get hectic as I start the next push towards making it all one again...

Steering column is complete and has been test fitted. (still needs a sand and paint in black but will do that when I do the glovebox and doors in the paint from the cab I have spare.

I've also played around with the accelerator pedal, why caue it didnt have one and it was probably filled when I had the firewall de-holed. 2nd pic shows my factory 2000 VT Commodore pedal (from the donor engine car i dismantled) all test fitted up. I ended up using a 1"x2" piece of RHS to space it from the firewall. One of the bolts is the factory steering column brace and I drilled a hole for the other one.

[QBRacing]

I have also made another modification to the C4 Corvette steering rack which was kind of a necessity. WHY? Because I tried to bend my dented 35 year old tubes which were bashed and dented and ugly and I cant get new ones over here or the fittings it seems.

So I ended up sanding the main housing where the bump type fitting with washers go to remove the factory lip. I used 200, 400 then 800 wet and dry (you can see the RHS block I used to sand it in place) to get a nice smooth finish which will allow the use of a banjo fitting....

I did make a Video of the C4 Steering Rack modifications...

then I got some more banjos and had a company weld them to the old nuts for the middle of the rack.

Then i got some high pressure black tub and some -4an fittings and connected it all up like so...

[QBRacing]

NOW ..... before I can do anything under the hood I need to paint the firewall.

If you watched the video link above I am using a 3M underbody crinkle finish which can be painted over to give a nice mat black finish......

guess what my plan for tomorrow is .....

[QBRacing]

3M C Guard sprayed. now to wait for it to dry for final paint....

[QBRacing]

Now the firewalls painted I can finally get the vintage air and engine back in 58

I've also started a couple of kick panels for speakers up front.

[QBRacing]

I made this short video just to show the following things
* the firewall painting
* the Vintage Air install
* the engine re-install
* the Corvette steering modifications
* and some other small bits ... (speakers and kick panels etc)

enjoy

[Jason 56]

Looking good... it’s coming together quickly. Great engineering ideas on the steering rack.

[QBRacing]

Inner guards are complete after applying a thin layer of bog, primer and texture guard. Now they are waiting the final paint.

The vintage air is complete and installed. I have tested and everything works a treat. If anyone is doing it themselves (and reads this) I would recommend fitting the flexi pipe to he demist vents before installing the main box as it is near impossible to fit following install.

I made a short video outlining this and other bits I have done with also include installing the slam panel and radiator/condenser.

[Nut Case]

QB

Your build is grand!!!! and the video's are full of useful stuff.

Many thanks

Nutz

[QBRacing]

slow day today putting the engine bay back together... but I'm getting there.

Finished mounting both inner guards before mounting the American Autowire main fuse links and the VT Commodore 30amp fan fuses.

Cut the starter, alternator and fan fuse wires, found my connectors went to the sparky to crimp and he went home early... grrr

started on the heater system and realised the Vintage Air kit heat controller doesnt have a bypass. No issue for a SBC/BBC but unfortunately LS1s need a bypass when closed for circulation..... VA sell a 5/16 bypass H pipe so I guess I'm not finishing that off either. Considering trying to make something out of AN fittings but that looks mega costly and a lot larger than the VA bypass. sigh

At least I ran the trans lines to the VT radiator and finished off the Steamport to radiator line.

Take them small wins I suppose

[nos487]

Looks Great!!!

[QBRacing]

Here is another video showing off all the small stuff that pics don't show.

Basically I've ordered some more vintage air parts to finish the heater and bypass to suit the recirculating system an LS engine uses. I've also ordered some new bushes for the front and rear control arms of the C4 Corvette suspension and a remote brake master kit for the underfloor system.

Ive installed my inner guards, wiring, fuses, master breakers, Newport wiper system (55-57) and slotted my 58-59 bonnet hinges to fit what I am now sure is a 57 cab...

[QBRacing]

My custom 1 piece drive shaft got finished today.

bit heavier than I expected but good for 6500rpm and 700hp or so he tells me....

fitted like a glove, first pop.

1 more piece completed. better put some oil in the diff and trans I guess

[QBRacing]

One more piece of the puzzle fitted yesterday.

#NoMoreGlare or as my kids are telling me #EyebrowsOnFleek (what ever the hell that means).

Also did a few smaller tasks like mounting some relays, conduiting some wires, looking at the park brake setup...

[QBRacing]

if I keep chipping away at it the task doesnt seem as daunting.....

Before mounting the column so I can weld on the lower support plate I finally decided on where I am mounting these two switches.

Power still controls the trans power/eco mode at the PCM in the normal fashion and I think I can make Hptuners say that when the traction is activated take out 2 or 4 degrees of timing. I will also piggy back the NOS relay off the earth it supplies.....

[QBRacing]

So I've been busy doing lots of small bits recently and boy do they take time.

I mounted the main PCM between the driver step plate and chassis rail. still need to put a piece of rubber or plastic to act as a main dust sheild but thats no biggie.

finished off all the front end wiring today and rebuilt the headlight buckets... man they look good.

They other day I spent some time and adapted the LS1 Holden dual fan dual speed wiring diagram to suit my American Autowire loom/config before going to the local pick-a-part. I got my missing piece of wire and the plug for my earth wires on the Holden fans and scored a sweet little relay setup from an AE111 Corolla which should do the trick nicely and allow full control.... "insert evil laugh here".

um. what else.

I battled with the roof rubber for the inside skin and won...

I battled the roof insert nd walked away before I broke it... might try that bit again tomorrow.

I've finally run the oil and water sensors for the dakota digital dash and remounted that.

I've made little hold down bracket to keep the vintage air right side Demister from hitting the wiper arm as it moves back and forwards.

think that's it.... I'll probably make another video over the weekend so watch this space....

[QBRacing]

Ok .... As promised ... here is the LATEST VIDEO I have made of my build ....

It covers off all the last bits from my last post and some ...

Enjoy

Q

[QBRacing]

Couple more updates.

I had previously run all the piping for the Vintage Air setup after getting the bypass h-pipe that the LS engines require if the heater valve is closed. I decided today I didn't like the original config or how far towards the head one of the pipes ran.....

After humming and haring I bit the bullet and redid the setup and are now so much happier. I basically moved the solo heater pipe towards the others. put a bung in the old hole and re ran the pipes... so much tidier.

can you figure out the before and revised image below??

[QBRacing]

I also picked up the last part of my steering column yesterday and the alloy heat sheild for the brake resevoir which I have some sticky heat reflector stuff to wrap it in yet.

[Kevin_C]

Looking good. A couple of you guys are just enough ahead of me that you end up answering my questions before I ask. I got my motor mounts tacked in and just waiting for the welder. I'm shipping my power rack to Flat-out tomorrow to get rebuilt and modified. While I have my engine out I figured I would clean up my firewall. I had a question on the vintage air setup. How much flexibility do you have on the firewall hole location? I was thinking of running one of those billet quad ports on the firewall but I didn't know what the back of the vintage air setup looks like.

[QBRacing]

Kevin.

I did think about doing that but with the uneven firewall I think it mounts to high... unless you flat wall it but then the mountings for the VA setup will need modifying too.

Here is a shot from the inside.

The 4th tube (for the heater system) runs in behind the heater pipe u can see.

hope this helps you