Restomod 72 K10 "Good Memories"

[Richard]

Happy with progress, removed most of the front suspension today. Just need to get the front hangers off and should be last of rivet removal (10 more). Picked up a new IR long stroke air hammer. With an X cut in head of rivet I can have each one completely out in 2-3 minutes including the cutoff wheel work. The thin 3" 3M GreenCorps wheels are amazing. Expensive but last and cut steel like butter saving lots of time and mess. Did some initial mock up of front components. Looks like I have some fab work to get the front done. None of the suspension brackets are direct fit. Kind of expected, will be fun figuring it out and making it work.

[Richard]

Frame link brackets are installed. Required crossmember modification and a bit of welding. Axle link/shock brackets are trimmed and massaged to fit the new axle. Left bracket is pictured, right passenger bracket was designed to key into spring pad with a Ubolt, Spring pad does not exist on my axle. I cut the ubolt section off and will modify that bracket as needed. Idea is to modify and move link mounts closer to knuckles to avoid welding to differential casing. Welding to cast can be difficult and not as strong. Will see if this is possible. May still need to attach to cast section where axle tube is pressed in. New wheel studs and other odd parts arrived from Summit in one day. Can get temp wheels on axle to help in checking clearances before I weld up axle brackets and make link bars.

[Richard]

Have been getting work done. M14 studs and 14" Ram rotors installed along with caliper brackets. Axle link/shock brackets are totally finished and tacked on the axle. The right bracket from ORD required a lot of work to modify. I will be able to hit the plug welds when welding up giving more confidence in strength. Have a 2lb roll of specialty cast mig wire on order to do the weld to third member. Was pricey but safety is a number one concern. I made some mockup links from pvc to locate the axle. Installed the 2wd core support mounts obtained from the parts section.. Will get core support, fenders and temp wheels mounted on Monday to check clearances. Axle is pushed forward over an inch and want to be sure things work before making the links. Cutting them wrong will just cost more time and money. Hoping to get parts for tierod next week. Will get new steering box attached and determine what is needed for parts for it. ie correct pitman arm and ball joints.

[Richard]

Have the axle in place. As thought it was to far forward. Moving it back shortened the links so I moved the mounts back 6 1/2". Link mounts are right on the trans crossmember now. Welded up the unused holes. Links, panhard and tierod are made. A lot more work than it looks like. Cutting pipe and drilling for plug welds takes time. Everything is just tacked together right now incase I need to make changes. Installed ported PSC steering box and brace. Pitman arm and drag link parts are on order. Need to get accessory drive on motor and a/c box installed to start on shock mounts.
Decided to use my original core support as I will be cutting a cold air intake through it. Took to body shop and pounded the damage out. Still need to clean and paint. Pleased with the progress. Working tomorrow so will not get back to it until next week.

[Richard]

The motor accessory drive is installed. Had to dismount the blower to remove the snout and install upper pulley and hub. I also replaced the factory spring isolator from the snout to blower with a solid aftermarket type unit. It is a common wear item, the factory unit was shot. Blower belt sent with kit is to short. Emailed LSX Concepts and they replied quickly. They are going to send the correct belt with return label for wrong one. Great service from them as the kit was probably purchased over a year ago.

I need to measure for the serpentine rib belt and order. The power steering pump and pulley is a made to spec unit from Turn One and not from LSX Concepts. A belt was not included in the kit.

While blower lid was off I installed the 1" spacer. Supposed to increase flow. It increases plenum volume and helps correct the lean condition on the 2 rear cylinders that is on the LSA Camaro lids. Stated hp gains vary from a negligible 5hp to over 20hp. I have the room to install the spacer and I figure that it cannot hurt. Should have took more pics while disassembled but tend to forget when I get into the work.

[Richard]

Been doing some work that pays. A little time for the truck. Replacement Gilmer belt arrived today and I threw it on. Figured out correct fan belt and installed a few days ago. Used the string measuring method around pulleys and the measurement was several inches shorter than belt provided with kit. PS pulley in kit is 5.2" and mine is 6.5" so i knew it was wrong. Found the next three sizes up from kit belt available local. Picked them up, two sizes up was perfect and I took the others back.
The Gilmer setup is not needed as I am only running about 10 psi of boost. Only reason is I always wanted to have a vehicle with a roots type blower and old school blower belt setup. Just think it looks cool. Can always go to the rib type belt if I do not like it.
Initial mockup for front shocks. Need to get steering sorted out so I can find final frame panhard bracket location. Local 4x4 shop let me use several pitman arms for fitment, none of them seemed to work well. Ordered another one that may be here tomorrow.
Ordered some couplers and studs to raise the engine cover mounts so it can be used with the lid spacer. I see that most just ditch it when running the spacer. I like it.

[57taskforce]

AWESOME work Richard! That thing is gonna be really bad ass when it’s done. That four link looks like it came out really nice. Are you going to do anything to brace up the track bar mount on the frame? I’ve noticed my frame twists a little bit with just the steering box, seems that could be a weak spot on yours if you don’t brace it to the other frame rail somehow. I’m gonna put the ORD steering box brace in mine, it’s already got the weld on ORD crack repair plate.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

AWESOME work Richard! That thing is gonna be really bad ass when it’s done. That four link looks like it came out really nice. Are you going to do anything to brace up the track bar mount on the frame? I’ve noticed my frame twists a little bit with just the steering box, seems that could be a weak spot on yours if you don’t brace it to the other frame rail somehow. I’m gonna put the ORD steering box brace in mine, it’s already got the weld on ORD crack repair plate.

Thank you for the kind comment. Helps to keep me motivated to post progress. I used the ORD brace on this 72 and also my last one. Can be seen in the steering box pic a couple posts back. Need to clearance a bit for the Gilmer belt pulley on crank. Little to close for me. This truck as well as my last also has the factory steering box frame reinforcement inside frame. Had no problems with the frame on my last truck.
The back edge of the panhard (trac bar) mount is right on the engine crossmember so I was thinking it will be good. I used an extended/offset mount to make the trac bar longer, which is always better. Think it will relieve some stress on frame due to design. Can always add a bar to other side of frame or maybe a triangulated brace to the engine crossmember somewhat like the ORD steering brace. Going to upgrade the panhard ends and bungs to 7/8" thread from the 3/4" ORD provided. Also going switch one end from a heim to a Johnny joint. Heims have their place, but on a DD or mostly street truck IMO not a plus.
The third pitman arm is on the way. High hopes this one is the ticket.

Installed the factory A/C box on fire wall. Going to make coilover mounting hoop a real challenge on that side. Really do not want to use a cramped, hard to service aftermarket cycling clutch system with electronic controls. The challenge is making me reconsider my choice to use the factory A/C box.

[57taskforce]

Yea that is a tight fit for sure. Good plan on the Johnny joint, I had helms on an adjustable track bar in my old 4” lifted grand Cherokee. I could never get more than a few thousand miles out of them before they started loosening up and the death wobble came knocking. I threw that one in the trash and got a bar with hard bushings. I ran Johnny joints on the frame side front and rear upper and lower control arm bushings and they did great.
I may not post every time but I’m certainly following along, as I’m sure others are as well.

[higgys72]

Originally Posted by Richard

Have the axle in place. As thought it was to far forward. Moving it back shortened the links so I moved the mounts back 6 1/2". Link mounts are right on the trans crossmember now. Welded up the unused holes. Links, panhard and tierod are made. A lot more work than it looks like. Cutting pipe and drilling for plug welds takes time. Everything is just tacked together right now incase I need to make changes. Installed ported PSC steering box and brace. Pitman arm and drag link parts are on order. Need to get accessory drive on motor and a/c box installed to start on shock mounts.
Decided to use my original core support as I will be cutting a cold air intake through it. Took to body shop and pounded the damage out. Still need to clean and paint. Pleased with the progress. Working tomorrow so will not get back to it until next week.

I’m hoping I didn’t go to short on my links I’m 26 in overall. I’ve been talking to ord and mounted the frame link mount at the body mount.

It’s pretty funny how similar our builds are. The trucks even started life off from the same area of the country with the same color and very close in factory options.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by higgys72

I’m hoping I didn’t go to short on my links I’m 26 in overall. I’ve been talking to ord and mounted the frame link mount at the body mount.

It’s pretty funny how similar our builds are. The trucks even started life off from the same area of the country with the same color and very close in factory options.

Noticed a lot of similarities right away when I came across your build. ORD is pretty good with customer support, I have been on the phone with them a few times with questions. They are helpful but I do not always agree with their recommendations though. I am sure your links will be fine. I saw no purpose for removing cab mounts to install brackets. My links ended up at 36.5" long bolt to bolt. Probably totally unnecessary for the hours of work I spent moving my link mounts back further than previous. Because of lift height I wanted to get links longer to keep them more horizontal. Axle position at ride height will be about 2"-3" lower than is in most pics I posted. Full bump will be about 2"-3" higher than pictured. The 37" tires I will have and the minimal fender trim requires a lower bump position to turn when bottomed out.
Will keep an eye on your build. Planning a trip to Boise next year to visit my brother once I put some miles on the truck. Looks like you are quite few hours away from him.

[higgys72]

Originally Posted by Richard

Planning a trip to Boise next year to visit my brother once I put some miles on the truck. Looks like you are quite few hours away from him.

Definitely keep me informed on your trip here Boise is about 4 hours from me but if I have a week or two notice I can plan a weekend over there to see some family and check out your truck.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by higgys72

Definitely keep me informed on your trip here Boise is about 4 hours from me but if I have a week or two notice I can plan a weekend over there to see some family and check out your truck.

I will keep you in mind for the trip. Love meeting new people with my interests. My goal of a running and driving truck by end of year does not seem to be attainable. Have to roll with it and keep a positive attitude.
The latest pitman arm arrived and it would work but has a ridiculous amount of drop putting a lot of stress on arm and steering box shaft. Will move draglink end to top of steering arm to make things workable. Trying to avoid a bent drag link. A 3.5" drop Dodge Ram arm (installed) with the draglink end on top of arm seems to be the best solution. Waiting on parts again.

[Richard]

No updates on the 72. Slight detour. Lost 3-4 gear in my 94 DD. Was getting a flare in the shift from 2-3 for some time now and then totally lost 3-4 gear. Got trans out and found the 3-4 clutch pack was gone. Further inspection revealed a crack in the 3-4 accumulator piston. Pretty confident this is what lead to my problems. Everything else looks good. Low pressure on clutches is not a good thing. Have a rebuild kit but need to order the 3-4 piston as it seems to be not available local. Wish I could trust local shops. But will save close to 3k doing the R&R + rebuild myself. Auto trans rebuild looks intimidating but really not that bad, have done a few now.

[Richard]

It has been a minute since the last post. Parts ordered, backordered, sent wrong and even ordered wrong. Parts re-ordered, wait for shipping, deal with refunds.

Rid the track bar completely of heims. The decision set me back a bit.
I only want to do this once and do it the way I want it. Getting the left hand thread Johnny joint and weld bung took a while. The through bolt hole in JJ pivot balls was 1/32" to small for my 3/4" bolt. Biggest they make in the narrow version. Machine shop wanted nothing to do with the hardened pieces. $20 worth of grinding stones used in my 20v Dewalt battery drill reamed them out to accept the bolts. Track bar frame bracket is located, lowered and moved forward. New bar is made with new joints. Waiting on a piece of tube to make a brace for the track bar mount to other side of frame.

Steering is sorted out, knuckle arm is reamed for top ball joint and drag link made. Track bar and drag link are almost the same length and running parallel. Bump steer should be non-existant. I ordered the wrong size u-joint for the steering box, took a bit to get sorted out with Summit. I did not get any replies in my post asking about spline shaft sizes. For those that want the info tilt column is 3/4"x36 spline and the 2wd steering box is 13/16"x36 spline.

Front air bumps are located on both sides of front axle. Still a bit of work to do on the mounts. in pic it looks like not a lot of up travel, the axle at ride height will be 2.5"-3" lower than it is seen.
Hoping to get started on shock hoops next week. Have some other work to take care of to.

[Richard]

Been working a lot, dealing with MIL's home sale and getting ready for her to move in. Life happens.
Was able to work on truck today. Worked on the track bar mount brace. It is mostly done. Need to knock bracket off of frame one more time and adjust to provide about 1/4" more clearance at bottom.

[72 tigger]

Looking good! Thanks for sharing your updates

[Richard]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Looking good! Thanks for sharing your updates

Thank you for the kind remark. Hope to have some more updates next week at the latest.

[Richard]

Cut panhard bracket off frame and made the modifcations for clearance of bar up travel. May be hard to see in pic, but it took some time. New steering shaft is cut and installed. PSC steering box is about 2 1/4 turns lock to lock. Can grind the stops if I need more turning radius. Made the hoop mounting points for frame. Started work on shock hoops. Cut them in half and made some bends to clear the steering shaft and locate the top forward a bit. Both sides are set. Next step to tack in place and modify the rear of hoop. Then make one piece again. Still working a lot. Hopefully more time this next week as I finished up a couple jobs at the shop.

[mr.mud1]

WOW Richard,what a truck you're building,i just found it read through the complete build after seeing your comment about my truck.i hope my bed sides look as nice as yours?wonderful tribute to dad,he'd be proud i'm sure.i have a personalized plate on my 67 impala wagon that says "THX DAD" .people always ask if he gave me the car but he didn't.he was a car nut,racer,all around cool guy.he was with me in Blueridge,GA in 1999 when I bought the car,we worked on it for 2 days after it sat 10 years and then we drove it home.i learned a lot from him and miss him and mom everyday.very cool truck you have.take care,all the best.Greg

[Richard]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

WOW Richard,what a truck you're building,i just found it read through the complete build after seeing your comment about my truck.i hope my bed sides look as nice as yours?wonderful tribute to dad,he'd be proud i'm sure.i have a personalized plate on my 67 impala wagon that says "THX DAD" .people always ask if he gave me the car but he didn't.he was a car nut,racer,all around cool guy.he was with me in Blueridge,GA in 1999 when I bought the car,we worked on it for 2 days after it sat 10 years and then we drove it home.i learned a lot from him and miss him and mom everyday.very cool truck you have.take care,all the best.Greg

Thank you for the comment. Really appreciate it. Know my dad would be and always was proud of me. An awesome feeling to have. Though he would most likely be rolling his eyes at some of the stuff I am doing to this truck. Same as my last one. Really miss talking to him about stuff I am working on. Learned more than I could explain from him. Wish you well on your project!

[Richard]

Got some work done on the shock hoops. Was going to wait until they were done. Maybe someone would like to see the progress? Right hoop is ready to tack onto mounts. Was challenging and fun to make it clear the factory A/C box. Driver side pieces are bent up as well and just need to be put together. Wanted to come up with a design that works and mirrors. Still quite a bit to do on the mounts. Another "leg" in the center, the removable brace over the engine and then cut inner fender wells to fit. My plan is to fab covers over the cutout space for hoops/shocks. Do not want the water and debris in the engine bay. Some pics for all.

[Richard]

The hoops are put together and ready to be tacked onto the frame. Want some 1 3/4" tube for bracing as I am a little short. Trying to find a supplier that can provide without ridiculous shipping. Hoops are kind of crazy looking. You can see what I started with in the back of earlier pic from post #152. All done with hand tools. No reason to just use off the shelf stuff as is. You can do it with persistence.

[Richard]

Both hoops are tacked in place on the mounts and I made a couple of brackets for a center leg attachment point on frame. Lots of measuring, double checking and minor fitting today. Some 1 3/4" tube is on the way. Considering I have not done a project this extensive before, am pleased with how it is shaping up. Couple pics of drivers side and another.

[Richard]

Was going through some parts and found my new wheel, paddle shifter and cruse stalk. Been wanting to make sure I can clock the wheel correctly with the steering box centered and check clearance of paddle module to levers. So I threw it on. Don't mind the wires, they are all going away.