Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

I know what you mean hurting for a couple days. My neighbor and I just pulled 2 twelve hour shifts building a fence this weekend. I won't be worth much this week. And for the drain I went with the center location. That drain line isn't ideal but in the center the passenger feet will typically straddle it for the most part. I have that drop the instructions called for too. I drilled a hole in floorboard so I could squeeze the 90 degree fitting attached to hose and it be super snug. No sealer.

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Thanks. That's where most of the guys place it based on the photos I see out there. I'll move mine to the center also and just plug the hole I jabbed it in... I guess the carpet lays over the port?

[TA_C10]

Yeah I just cut a slit in my carpet and it went around the hose no problem.

[cornerstone]

I want to figure out a way to keep my firewall smooth. The VA evaporator needs to be bolted to the inside of the firewall. If I weld a couple studs to hang the thing I doubt I'll have enough room to reinstall it. Has anyone found a better solution besides this idea?

[1971Stepside]

I put my drain hole more to where you have Option 2, but I put mine as high up but still under that cab support. The hose will run down inside that to below the inner fender. I would post a pic, but I don't have the truck.

[sprint_9]

I'll see if I can get you a picture of mine. I ran it out the side of the cab, I thought it worked out pretty slick.

Ok here are some pictures of mine. I drilled a hole out under the cowl vent. I used the stock Vintage air drain hose to get it out that far, then I bought a 90 degree fitting and ran some clear hose down out between the cab and the fender. I used a grommet and got a nice press fit so everything is sealed good, I also used clamps on everything so it wont fall apart with time or leak. I haven't used it yet but everything has fall so it should work fine.

[1971Stepside]

I want to figure out a way to keep my firewall smooth. The VA evaporator needs to be bolted to the inside of the firewall. If I weld a couple studs to hang the thing I doubt I'll have enough room to reinstall it. Has anyone found a better solution besides this idea?

I welded the studs in on my firewall on the inside. I have plenty of room to bolt them up. It is fun getting the hoses connected on the inside though.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by sprint_9

I'll see if I can get you a picture of mine. I ran it out the side of the cab, I thought it worked out pretty slick.

Ok here are some pictures of mine. I drilled a hole out under the cowl vent. I used the stock Vintage air drain hose to get it out that far, then I bought a 90 degree fitting and ran some clear hose down out between the cab and the fender. I used a grommet and got a nice press fit so everything is sealed good, I also used clamps on everything so it wont fall apart with time or leak. I haven't used it yet but everything has fall so it should work fine.

Thanks for the pictures Sprint, I believe I like your design the best!

[cornerstone]

I started messing with my doors. I noticed on the inside, I have surface rust that I’d like to get rid of before I try to paint this truck. My first inclination is to use my new small blaster, assuming I can fit it in the access holes and reach the problem areas. Any other ideas?

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I started messing with my doors. I noticed on the inside, I have surface rust that I’d like to get rid of before I try to paint this truck. My first inclination is to use my new small blaster, assuming I can fit it in the access holes and reach the problem areas. Any other ideas?

Those spots are hard to get to. If you try to blast them, the sand/air is going to blow back at you and it'll be an unpleasant task. I pulled the skins off my truck, had the shell blasted, then epoxied them but if you don't need to replace the skins then I would try getting in there with a red scotchbrite and/or a wire brush to take off the loose rust and then use a rattle can rust encapsulator like Eastwood.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Those spots are hard to get to. If you try to blast them, the sand/air is going to blow back at you and it'll be an unpleasant task. I pulled the skins off my truck, had the shell blasted, then epoxied them but if you don't need to replace the skins then I would try getting in there with a red scotchbrite and/or a wire brush to take off the loose rust and then use a rattle can rust encapsulator like Eastwood.

Yeah, not a fun job for sure. I’ll look into the differences between the red scotchbrite and the green, I’m guessing the red is more coarse? I’ve heard so many mixed reviews about rust encapsulators, but I think the majority of problems are from painting over it. The only thing I will do is add sound deadener inside the doors. Thanks man.

[1971Stepside]

I scuffed as much off with 80 grit as I could and then sealed the inside up with POR15. My body shop recommended that. I will put dyno mat over the POR at some point. My drivers door is a newbie so I just left it as is.

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Yeah, not a fun job for sure. I’ll look into the differences between the red scotchbrite and the green, I’m guessing the red is more coarse? I’ve heard so many mixed reviews about rust encapsulators, but I think the majority of problems are from painting over it. The only thing I will do is add sound deadener inside the doors. Thanks man.

Green is about 600 grit whereas red is about 320. I use mostly red, it's a good all-around pad. But yes, topcoating over rust encapsulators is a bad idea. When the encapsulator is the only coating, it's okay. We used it on my dad's doors for the same purpose as what you're looking for and it worked fine.

POR15 and Chassis Saver products work fine too, they are designed to go over rust.

[Racer2172]

Nice work so far definitely a lot of good info on here you are killing it with this build.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by Racer2172

Nice work so far definitely a lot of good info on here you are killing it with this build.

Thanks!... but I'd say "killing it" is a bit of a stretch!

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Green is about 600 grit whereas red is about 320. I use mostly red, it's a good all-around pad. But yes, topcoating over rust encapsulators is a bad idea. When the encapsulator is the only coating, it's okay. We used it on my dad's doors for the same purpose as what you're looking for and it worked fine.

POR15 and Chassis Saver products work fine too, they are designed to go over rust.

Is there an advantage in using a red scotchbrite pad over 320 grit sandpaper since they are basically the same grit?

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Is there an advantage in using a red scotchbrite pad over 320 grit sandpaper since they are basically the same grit?

I like to use scrotchbrite when hard to reach areas are involved because the fibers reach much better than sandpaper. I also use it over EDP when I'm getting ready to spray epoxy over it. It's also my experience that 320 loads up pretty quick and wears out fast. I can't remember the last time I used 320, it's in an area of the grit spectrum that I don't use. The highest I go with dry sandpaper is 220 when I'm blocking. Then I jump to 600 wet for final sanding before sealer or base. When I say "jump", I mean I don't use any grits between 220 and 600, not that I go straight from 220 to 600 when sanding. I've never been good at getting all of the sand scratches out when going through the blocking steps and ending with 600, I always miss scratches. So once I'm done blocking with 220, I spray another coat or two so that I have a fresh coating to final sand with 600 so I know I won't have scratches coming through. Probably more info than you wanted.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Probably more info than you wanted.

Not a chance of that happening! Between you and Randy500 I may learn how to do something I've always wanted to do. Many thanks for any and all tips or comments.

I'm now on the hunt for red scotchbrite.

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Not a chance of that happening! Between you and Randy500 I may learn how to do something I've always wanted to do. Many thanks for any and all tips or comments.

I'm now on the hunt for red scotchbrite.

If you ever want more info on bodywork, let me know. I'm by no means an expert, but I've learned a lot of what not to do. It's not scary, it just takes time to learn and a little money to get some good tools and equipment.

You should be able to get scotchbrite at your local auto paint shop or AutoZone, Napa, etc. If you're not in a hurry, Amazon.

[cornerstone]

I bought my paint today. I’ve hemmed and hawed between base coat clear coat and single stage and even between colors for, well... years. I chose single stage primarily because I think the finish is more indicative to a classic. I really like the satins and the flats but I thought it would be best to try and do a stock looking paint job. Plus, if I screw something up I can just do the faux-tina look and I’d probably be happy with that as well.

Here’s what I got:
Nason brand single stage “Full-Thane 2k”
6 quarts of 510 “medium blue” (1.5 gallons)
2 quarts of 521 “linen white” (.5 gallons)
Reducer and slow activator
2 extra gallon cans with lids
Mixing cups
Paint stirring sticks and strainers
I also picked up an aerosol can of rust encapsulator for the inside of my doors to keep the surface rust at bay.

The total with sales tax and some state fees was 603. Seems like a good deal to me.

[sfont66]

I may be a little late here, and I am a bit old school in my approach, but I like to use a pressure sandblaster. It is messy and should be done outside if possible.
The drawbacks,( other than the mess) is , they require a lot of air volume. I have a 6.5hp dual stage compressor with an 80 gallon tank and 60 gallon auxiliary tank.
That said ,they do a great job of cleaning up rusty parts. If you ever consider one for the future, the blast media you choose makes a difference. I tend to use silica sand or diamond grit( please use a respirator when blasting), choose one that has a choke valve in the air line, this will help to clear a clogged hose when the sand / air has too much moisture. Also get a few different sizes of nozzles, sometimes the smaller grit isn’t screened well and can clog the blast nozzle.
I have had several over the years, I had a nice one, but a friend borrowed it and never returned it. He took off with it and my ex wife, 30 years ago, good riddance ....my latest one is a cheapie that I had to modify,adding better pipe and the choke valve . I have pics, but don’t want to overstep.
Sorry for the rambling, it’s Friday and I’ve had a couple

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by sfont66

I have had several over the years, I had a nice one, but a friend borrowed it and never returned it. He took off with it and my ex wife, 30 years ago, good riddance ....my latest one is a cheapie that I had to modify,adding better pipe and the choke valve . I have pics, but don’t want to overstep.
Sorry for the rambling, it’s Friday and I’ve had a couple

I saw this home made blaster in the paint and bodywork FAQ threads... it sure looks like it'd do the trick. I picked up one of those small gravity feed blasters a couple weeks ago and it worked really good, so I will probably use it inside my door shells and spray the rust encapsulator into the corners or anywhere the blaster can't reach.

Your makin' me want to go to the fridge and grab a cold Billy Jenkins Bock. my latest favorite frothy beverage.

[MDPotter]

$600 isn't bad at all and Nason seems to be good stuff.

Are you doing the two-tone like the bed?

[cornerstone]

That’s the plan, yes.

[MDPotter]

Any updates? It looks like you have all your paint, have you been bodyworking?

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

...

Have you figured out your fan wiring yet? I've been doing research on Gen V's in hopes of doing one on the next project. From what I've read, the ECM is not capable of turning on fans with a high/low function like the previous generations. It controls the speed of the fans in a variable speed fashion. That or you can install a temp sender and a standalone fan controller, but I like how clean the factory setup is and letting the ECM control the fans.