Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Do you have a pic of the Corvette manifolds? Generally Vette manifolds don't fit in most swaps. You would be better off with TBSS, Gen5 Camaro or Pontiac G8 manifolds.

This is all I have, from the listing.

That's a bummer if they don't work. I've been searching off and on for a while. TBSS manifolds are non-existent locally. Camaro versions (at least what I have found) are going for the same price as shorty headers.

[ls1nova71]

I think you may be alright with those since they look an awful lot like Camaro manifolds. It is possible they used them on a Corvette and I have just never seen them, or it could also be the seller is one of those "my Camaro has the Corvette engine" kind of guys. LOL!

I noticed in one pic they have flanges and the other they do not. If at all possible, get the flanges with them, it will make putting the exhaust on a lot easier.

[LS short box]

Check over on Speedway Motors. As I recall they have weldable flanges that match the manifolds.

[EagleChief]

Small victory on Monday evening... Neighbor brought his welder over and we got the exhaust bolts out!

That's all. I know it's not a big deal to the majority of you, but for me, that's a big deal!

[ls1nova71]

Any progress is progress!!

[rodstored-72]

agree... just take one bite at a time.... nice job!

[jjzepplin]

I was happy as all get out when I was able to remove my broken bolts. So I am with you on your success. CONGRATULATIONS!!! Now I have a broken bolt in my 2014 pickup. Same rear bolt. For the life of me I can't figure out why GM put those small bolts in and they kept breaking and they kept right on putting them in. I never broke an exhaust bolt in my GEN 1 engines. I wonder if they can be machined for larger bolts that will not break. Any way - Great job! To Me, that is a huge hurdle overcome.

[LS short box]

It's not really the size of the bolts but the torque as they were installed and steel bolts into aluminum. When you put new bolts in use never seize.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Any progress is progress!!

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

agree... just take one bite at a time.... nice job!

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

I was happy as all get out when I was able to remove my broken bolts. So I am with you on your success. CONGRATULATIONS!!! Now I have a broken bolt in my 2014 pickup. Same rear bolt. For the life of me I can't figure out why GM put those small bolts in and they kept breaking and they kept right on putting them in. I never broke an exhaust bolt in my GEN 1 engines. I wonder if they can be machined for larger bolts that will not break. Any way - Great job! To Me, that is a huge hurdle overcome.

Originally Posted by LS short box

It's not really the size of the bolts but the torque as they were installed and steel bolts into aluminum. When you put new bolts in use never seize.

Thanks guys! One step closer to getting this engine in. I'm hoping, depending on my hoist availability, that I can try it one of the weekends this month. *Fingers crossed*

I'll definitely be using some anti-seize on the new bolts.

[ShortHaul]

Subbed and following along here... just put a deposit down on a refurbished 5.3/4l60e for my 75 Cheyenne. I’m in the research phase myself, and it’s nice to come here and find I’m not the only one with all these same questions. And congrats on getting the bolts out. I know how it is to have limited garage time available... a “minor” setback like that can sometimes gnaw at you for days on end when you don’t have time to wrench and solve it. I’ll be checking in on your progress.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by ShortHaul

Subbed and following along here... just put a deposit down on a refurbished 5.3/4l60e for my 75 Cheyenne. I’m in the research phase myself, and it’s nice to come here and find I’m not the only one with all these same questions. And congrats on getting the bolts out. I know how it is to have limited garage time available... a “minor” setback like that can sometimes gnaw at you for days on end when you don’t have time to wrench and solve it. I’ll be checking in on your progress.

You can do it! If I can, then anyone can do it. I can remove bolts and might be able to put them back in the right spot. That's about as far as my knowledge goes.

Looks like I'm going to try and put the motor in this coming weekend!! The hoist is available, my neighbor "should" be home *fingers crossed* (he's a pilot and is on reserve standby this weekend), and the wife agrees that it's time to get the motor in (my biggest hurdle). It helps when my son was disappointed that I didn't bring the "crane" home to put the motor in his truck.

[notsolo]

I am also watching, trying to learn something new....any idea, lift points..for the motor....trans going in as 1 piece?..I think the removal was done with straps around the oil pan on mine....don't want to lift from the exhaust manifolds from what I have read. I was hoping to put it back in the same way but unsure how to lift safely.

[LS short box]

With four chains from the cherry picker I use the open holes on the heads to lift the engine and trans together. Buy a engine leveler, it makes getting the angle so much easier.

[notsolo]

Thanks, I need to finish removing the crate....lift clear and hopefully set partially on trans pan and block the front. And motor mounts.. I also bought Speed engineering shallow oil pan and will try to replace from underneath unless that seems totally stupid. I would like to avoid removing intake, keeping as much original as possible.

[notsolo]

EagleChief, have you come to a decision on wiring harness? I know you have limited time with the new born..( Hope that's going great BTW.) I am going to attempt to rework the original, this guy has very good video's IMO... he is doing an LS swap in a jeep but basic LS wiring for dummies which is what I need..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHIVd_SkB9Y

[LS short box]

No reason to install the pan after install. Intake just be careful of hitting against the fire wall. Just give the engine and trans a bit of an angle and then get a jack under the trans to level things out as you get it close to the engine mounts.

[notsolo]

Before install in engine bay, I was hoping to lift engine 2ft or so, still connected to the hoist but safety blocks front and back. Pull pan and replace. Don't know if the windage tray needs trimmed for Speed engineering pan.

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Before install in engine bay, I was hoping to lift engine 2ft or so, still connected to the hoist but safety blocks front and back. Pull pan and replace. Don't know if the windage tray needs trimmed for Speed engineering pan.

Did the pan come with a new pick up?

[notsolo]

Yes...Speed engineering pan comes with pick up and gasket.26-1039

[EagleChief]

I'll try and give my best answers. Can't guarantee that they are correct, or the right way to do it - but, it's my plan for now.

Originally Posted by notsolo

I am also watching, trying to learn something new....any idea, lift points..for the motor....trans going in as 1 piece?..I think the removal was done with straps around the oil pan on mine....don't want to lift from the exhaust manifolds from what I have read. I was hoping to put it back in the same way but unsure how to lift safely.

My lift plan as of now... Use a 4ft piece of chain with hooks. Attach one side to the front passenger side of the motor, on the bracket at the front. The other side can attach to the rear driver side - there's a bracket mounted behind the fuel rail that protects the rail from any damage. It is sturdy. When we unloaded the engine out of the delivery truck, that's where they attached to in order to lift it out and set it in my garage. I figured that would work for me.

Originally Posted by notsolo

Thanks, I need to finish removing the crate....lift clear and hopefully set partially on trans pan and block the front. And motor mounts.. I also bought Speed engineering shallow oil pan and will try to replace from underneath unless that seems totally stupid. I would like to avoid removing intake, keeping as much original as possible.

I have a new pan kit as well. It came with everything, pan, pickup tube, windage tray, gaskets, hardware, etc. My thought is to raise the motor (as stated above), and replace all of the oil pan stuff while it's in the air. Probably not the safest, but I don't have a way to mount the engine on anything to get underneath it. Once I get that stuff swapped out, put the motor in.

Originally Posted by notsolo

EagleChief, have you come to a decision on wiring harness? I know you have limited time with the new born..( Hope that's going great BTW.) I am going to attempt to rework the original, this guy has very good video's IMO... he is doing an LS swap in a jeep but basic LS wiring for dummies which is what I need..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHIVd_SkB9Y

First of all, thank you! Baby girl is doing great and growing like a weed! We're starting to get longer sleep cycles at night, so that's always great.

I found a shop in Dallas, Texas that does rework and programming for LS swaps. He quoted me $400 to re-work my harness, flash the CPU and tune it to my needs (basic tune and remove what's not needed). I send my stuff to him, 3 days he turns it around and sends it back. Said it would be plug and play when I got it back. There are a couple of shops local to me that I need to talk to and get quotes. I'll compare them first, then make my decision.

Originally Posted by notsolo

Before install in engine bay, I was hoping to lift engine 2ft or so, still connected to the hoist but safety blocks front and back. Pull pan and replace. Don't know if the windage tray needs trimmed for Speed engineering pan.

See above - I have the same idea. Lift it up, replace the stuff and install it in the truck.

[notsolo]

Got my speed pan on, only slight modification. No trimming of the windage tray... test fit with the pick up tube on mine and would not clear the baffle in bottom of pan, unbolted baffle and trimmed a 1/4" off. The cutout looks like a car, cut the roof about a 1/4-3/8 and pick up tube fit thru the hole. Your results may vary. You need a 5mm allen wrench for the 2nd pickup tube bolt. Haven't tried the dipstick yet, we'll see.

[EagleChief]

Did some work on Saturday! Swapped out the pan - everything fit like it should. I was baffled at the omission of a bolt on the engine. On the driver side, the new pan had a location for a bolt, but the block didn't have a hole for it. I think it was the 3rd bolt back from the front?? Anyway, everything else fit up just fine. Pickup tube went in fine. i kept the stock windage tray and it seems to fit fine.

After that, we actually got the engine inside the truck!!! Now, I'm not finished getting it buttoned up in the engine bay - I ran out of time to work on it. But, there is one motor mount bolt in place. I still have to get the other one in (driver side) and get the trans crossmember in (another story). But, the motor is sitting in the engine bay!!! Woohooo!

Now - I have a tubular crossmember for the transmission that I ordered from CJ Pony Parts. I tried to install it (quickly, mind you) late Saturday night. When I held it up, it appears that it is too wide for my frame.

Here is the part I ordered: https://www.cjponyparts.com/tubular-...3-1972/p/CM13/

I really haven't tried too hard to figure out what I'm doing, but at first glance, I don't think it'll work. I'm going to try again in a couple of days to see if I can get a better understanding of what's going on. Does anyone know the measurement of the frame, from rail to rail? I'm going to get a measurement of mine and to see if it's correct.

[notsolo]

Congrats on getting engine set, frame inside to inside is 33 1/2.....33 5/8....the shape of the after market cross member will cause you some grief....the flared ends don't make it easy....I am close behind you, engine is in but also motor mounts are a bugger....I am using OEM crossmember for the trans, it may need moved, maybe next week...aarrrgh.

[Joemomma1]

Why didn't the old trans crossmember work for you? I'm using the factory piece in the factory location without issue.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by Joemomma1

Why didn't the old trans crossmember work for you? I'm using the factory piece in the factory location without issue.

Well, one of the previous owners had swapped out the original engine trans with a different setup - they had a 350 engine with a 700r4 trans. Shouldn't have been an issue... BUT, when they put the transmission in, they used the original crossmember and WELDED it in place for the 700r4! So, when I pulled the motor and trans out, I had to cut out the crossmember. Thus, leaving it useless. So, that's why I had to get another one.