55.2-59 Ol' Blue

[8man]

Thanks Raven, that is a good idea. I have some of those wheels to try that with.

I don't think I'll try all the seams, but those where the factory welded them and did a poor job.

[dsraven]

I plan to upholster the headliner in my project. Hopefully keep some heat out, or in depending on the weather, and also help with sound insulating.

[8man]

I think I have the original door latches and strikers for the 55-59 truck, but I see some differences and wanted to ask for some help in figuring them out. Pictures to come.

Thanks.

[8man]

The second photo shows the two strikers, they are different. Is there a reason for this? Has anyone seen this before?

The first picture shows the latch, without the metal strip/shield, the 3rd photo shows the latch with the metal strip covering the striker.

Thanks.

[dsraven]

Possibly the difference between a GM part and an aftermarket part.
Mine were from a farm truck and totally worn-out. I had to build up the strikers for the latch to clear the groove worn in.

[dsraven]

I plan to use latches and strikers from a modern vehicle. Like the besrclaw style but a GM part.

[8man]

Thanks Raven. I thought about Bear Claws, and used them on the 48, but wanted to stay stock looking on this one.

You don't know which is re-pop and which is original do you?

[dsraven]

Sorry I don't. All the doors I have had really well worn latches.

[daveshilling]

I think the top one with an actual thick plate is OEM, and the bottom is a cheaper stamped aftermarket... usually whichever part looks like it was better made was OEM.

The little metal cover on the latch was like a easy-fix-it option to repair a worn out part instead of replacing the whole thing. Often a groove would wear into it from that OEM striker and that little plate covers the groove and restores the alignment.

[8man]

Thanks Dave.

[8man]

Ok, ok, I've been slacking, I know. I have been doing stuff not so fun, like Metal to Metal on the cab, getting it ready for primer. However, I did make some progress so far this week.

I made the brackets for the battery box, painted them and got it all mounted up. Yes, it's a pain to change the battery, but I did it on the 48 and liked not having it under the hood, so here it is.

The 2nd picture is of the rear axle. I bought a "Ebay kit" for the rear brake line, and guess what, it didn't fit. So, I broke out the bender and tubing flaring apparatus and re-built it. It now fits.

While I was working on the rear axle, I made sure the pinion angle was at 3 degrees up. I'll check this again and then weld the perches to the axle.

[8man]

Well, I decided to smooth out the seams. Started with welding and grinding the seams I wanted to smooth out. Have some more to do, but I wanted to post an update.

Going to use some fiberglass reinforced "Bondo" to finish the job.

[Tempest67]

looking good

keep at it

[dsraven]

will you epoxy it first or fill over bare steel? arguments for both methods. I like to epoxy first to create a moisture barrier.

[8man]

If I go metal to metal or all metal, it'll be first then primer.

If I go filler with fiberglass, it'll probably still be first, but I'm still wrestling with that.

That's why I haven't decided which filler to use, but I'm leaning toward the fiberglass.

[dsraven]

I find the fiberglass filler is harder to lay down smooth over thin spots due to the small strands.

[Tempest67]

I'm not sure what you guys are referring to when you say 'fiberglass', is it fiberglass filler with strands? or, what I have done before, is add fiberglass resin to regular body filler? It makes the body filler very smooth/creamy and easy to spread, AND, it is very hard once cured.

Either way will work,

and FWIW, I do prefer to epoxy before filler. (as I like the moisture barrier on the metal)

[8man]

Thanks guys.

The filler would be the one with the short fiberglass strands, if I don't go with the All Metal, and I'm leaning that way. If I do use the filler with fiberglass, it will definitely be after primer. I've been researching that again and that is the recommended way to do it.

[dsraven]

I assume it is the stranded fiberglass body filler. It is available in different strand lengths.

[8man]

Yes, that is what I've been looking at.

[8man]

Went with Dynaglass to smooth out the welds and seams. Not finished, but I think it's looking pretty good.

[8man]

Well, the cab is finally in primer, and all the seams are gone!

Next stop is to test fit the body parts.

[Rickysnickers]

Nice work!!

[8man]

Thank you. About 60 hours, but I like the finished look.

[Tempest67]

very nice. always a welcome milestone when you start shooting primer.

keep it going