Tremec TKX 5 Speed Transmission Installation

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by chipmaker 1985

From what I've researched, it's cheap insurance to go with the billet flywheel in most cases. Especially with the quality of China castings these days.


Update on my deal: I spoke with Shane from Silver Sport yesterday. Apparently I was accidentally sent a transmission that is modified for a GM A-body. Long story short, they are going to exchange my transmission for the proper one on their dime.

Super stoked about this and the customer service from Silver Sport.

I'm glad to hear that they are straightening that out for you.

[pjmoreland]

I just filled my tank, and I got 13.4 MPG with the TKX. I was getting around 10 or 11 with the 700R4.

[chipmaker 1985]

Sounds like a dang good improvement. 2.5 mpg give or take, and a whole lot of fun factor!

How wild is your motor?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by chipmaker 1985

Sounds like a dang good improvement. 2.5 mpg give or take, and a whole lot of fun factor!

How wild is your motor?

It's an l31 Vortec 350 that I built a year or two ago.

9.7:1 compression, .040" quench
KB193.020 Hypereutectic pistons with a dish that is a good match to Vortec combustion chamber shape
Comp Cams XR276HR 224/230 duration at .050, 112 LSA, .503/.510 lift
Stock Vortec heads with beehive springs
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake
Holley Sniper
1-5/8" mid-length headers with 2-1/2" dual exhaust

I'm guessing it's producing at least 350 HP at the crank.

[chipmaker 1985]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

It's an l31 Vortec 350 that I built a year or two ago.

9.7:1 compression, .040" quench
KB193.020 Hypereutectic pistons with a dish that is a good match to Vortec combustion chamber shape
Comp Cams XR276HR 224/230 duration at .050, 112 LSA, .503/.510 lift
Stock Vortec heads with beehive springs
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake
Holley Sniper
1-5/8" mid-length headers with 2-1/2" dual exhaust

I'm guessing it's producing at least 350 HP at the crank.

Very nice! Sounds like a pretty dang good street set-up. I've been a little worried about what my MPG will be.

At over 2mpg extra that transmission will pay for itself. Just gotta clock a few miles to get that ROI, lol

[Chevy nutcase]

Few quick questions on the little doodads. Did you reuse your old speedo cable and did it need an adapter? Also what's the part numbers for the tranny mount and reverse light plug?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

Few quick questions on the little doodads. Did you reuse your old speedo cable and did it need an adapter? Also what's the part numbers for the tranny mount and reverse light plug?

I did use my old speedo cable. I bought an adapter from Silver Sport Transmissions and the gear from Summit. Summit doesn't seem to sell the adapter for some reason. The part number of the adapter is SPA-01. The gear I got was SPA-020, but you will need to select the right one for your rear end gearing and tire size. Here's a table that you can use to select the right gear.

https://i0.wp.com/americanpowertrain...5-PM.png?ssl=1

Speedway Motors has a better price on the adapter and gear in a combined kit.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mecha...MaApujEALw_wcB

Tranny Mount ISG-622378
Reverse Switch Pigtail ELA-00200

[pjmoreland]

I added a list of the parts I used to post #1

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I added a list of the parts I used to post #1

A thousand blessings for that list. With that crossmember, is there enough difference between the 67-72 frames and the one under my 66 that it wouldn't work?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

A thousand blessings for that list. With that crossmember, is there enough difference between the 67-72 frames and the one under my 66 that it wouldn't work?

That would be a good question for SST. They list it as being for 67-72.

[Chevy nutcase]

Looking at a couple threads on the subject of frame differences I only saw mentions of the steering area being different as well as body mounting points which don't affect me. My only concern is the frame width in the crossmember mounting region. I'm not worried about any existing holes working just the width. Excuse the crude artwork but it get the point across

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

Looking at a couple threads on the subject of frame differences I only saw mentions of the steering area being different as well as body mounting points which don't affect me. My only concern is the frame width in the crossmember mounting region. I'm not worried about any existing holes working just the width. Excuse the crude artwork but it get the point across

I will measure the width of my frame sometime over the next few days.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

Looking at a couple threads on the subject of frame differences I only saw mentions of the steering area being different as well as body mounting points which don't affect me. My only concern is the frame width in the crossmember mounting region. I'm not worried about any existing holes working just the width. Excuse the crude artwork but it get the point across

I haven't had my truck on jackstands yet, but here's the width of my original auto crossmember. It is 33-3/8" long. This should give you something to compare your truck to. It's somewhere in the vicinity of 1/4" shorter than the inner spacing between the frame rails.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I haven't had my truck on jackstands yet, but here's the width of my original auto crossmember. It is 33-3/8" long. This should give you something to compare your truck to. It's somewhere in the vicinity of 1/4" shorter than the inner spacing between the frame rails.

Thank you very much. I won't trouble you further for actual frame dimensions as this is enough to make a better decision

[pjmoreland]

Replaced the cast flywheel with a billet steel one today. Checked the balance of the pressure plate while I had everythiny apart. It was close to being balanced. I put an extra washer under the head of one of the pressure plate bolts to correct a slight imbalance.

[pjmoreland]

I replaced the 53801HST 16.5" shifter handle with a 53851HST that is intended for 73-87 C10s. It's a little bit shorter, it is swept back more, and it is bent and twisted slightly toward the driver side. The taller shifter I had on there before had no bend or twist to the side. It's a definite improvement. It feels more sporty, and the reach to 5th gear is no longer a stretch.

[pjmoreland]

It's kind of difficult to see the bend and twist to the driver side, but here are some photos that attempt to show it. The last photo shows how there is no sideways bend or twist in the taller 16.5" shifter.

[pjmoreland]

Here's the 73-87 shifter in various gears. It gets kind of close to the seat in 2nd, 4th and R, but I like that since it brings it in closer to me.

[pjmoreland]

I got a second 40-511 shifter sponge seal from Classic Parts. I shoved it in on top of the first one and it fit nice and snug.

I've been dealing with some vibration issues. One occurs above 4000 RPM and the other is a harmonic vibration that sets in above 80 MPH. I noticed that if I hit the bottom of the transmission with the base of my hand, the transmission will bounce up and down for a couple of seconds. I discovered that the transmission mount from SST is made from very soft rubber. I swapped in the original mount from my automatic transmission and the high RPM vibration is now significantly better to the point where it is acceptable.

I am considering seeing if my original automatic crossmember will work with the TKX. The SST crossmember doesn't seem as rigid as it could be, and it only attaches to the bottom lip of the frame.

[pjmoreland]

The stock starter I had installed only extended the drive gear about half way onto the flywheel, so I replaced it with a mini starter I already had. Installed a socket head cap screw with the head ground down to hold the front inspection cover in place.

[chipmaker 1985]

Lookin good! Been keeping an eye on your progress. Love your attention to detail. Thanks for the shifter to seat pics. It's helping me decide what to run. Only issue is I'm running with my motor in the 6cyl position. Hope it doesn't put it too close to the seat.

I started my install Saturday. Trying to document as much as I can while working solo.

[pjmoreland]

Seems like maybe you'll need a straighter stick than what I used. It's about to get real with that jigsaw!

[pjmoreland]

Last night I cleaned up and painted my original automatic crossmember. I took some measurements, and it looks like the surface that supports the transmission mount is basically the same height as the Silver Sport crossmember I have on there now. Also, it appears that it will be very close to being able to use the holes I drilled in the frame for a 700R4. The distance from the back of the block to the trans mount on a 700R4 is 22.5". The distance from the front of the TKX to the trans mount is 15.7", and from what I can find online, a GM bellhousing is 6.3" deep, so the total distance is 22". I'll probably just use my existing 700R4 frame holes and make a new spacer for between the transmission mount and transmission that has offset threaded holes for the mount.

This grease ball was the 55 years of grime I removed from the crossmember.

[pjmoreland]

I made an adapter plate today that allowed me to use the stock automatic transmission crossmember mounted in holes I drilled for a 700R4 transmission. It moved the transmission mount holes rearward by about .300". If the 700R4 holes weren't there, I could have just drilled holes in the frame rails to match the TKX.

[chipmaker 1985]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Seems like maybe you'll need a straighter stick than what I used. It's about to get real with that jigsaw!

LoL, yessir, the ole skill got it done. It's one of those tools I only use about once every 3 years. Thought the Sawzall was a little overkill this time.

The trans fit fine with the low hump, but you
have very little wiggle room on top around the shifter area.

The stock x-member looks way better on your rig. It's always best to run OEM when feasible IMO. Keep up the good work! You're giving me motivation to keep busting arse on mine.