Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Xeen]

It sounds like the signal converter is the best way to go regardless of what else you decide to do with the computer.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

It sounds like the signal converter is the best way to go regardless of what else you decide to do with the computer.

That could be true since the signal out of the TCU is a sine wave while the speedo functions best with a square wave. The tech at Classic said I might try to use tuning software to modify the TCU output to 16K ppm. Then see if the speedo worked correctly. If not, then I could always get the signal converter. The problem with this stuff is there's all sorts of information floating around the net. I've read guys post that some TCU settings are ghosted out in the tuning software and others claim the TCU is completely locked and requires a pro shop to unlock the functions.

I reckon if you go to a salvage yard and acquire a used ECM, wiring and other components, there are special steps you have to take to make them play together... maybe even to the point of buying a donor VIN off eBay or elsewhere. But for a noob, the sheer volume of conflicting info sure complicates the decision process.

[Vic1947]

With the cab/doors in paint shop limbo, I made a quick trip to Sedalia today to drop off all the parts I need to have powder coated. Should be ready sometime next week. When I got back, I figured I'd mock up the aftermarket headlights to see how they'd fit the buckets.

I got these lights in order to delete the stock turn signals. They have LED's built into the housing that function as both park lights and turn signals. Having done a similar mod on my 57 Ford, I knew I'd have to rework the buckets most likely. On the Ford, I had to relocate the notches where the light fit, but other than that, there wasn't much else. The current setup will require quite a bit more it looks like.

The new lamp was a long way from fitting into the bucket, so the first thing I did was to open up the rear of the bucket to allow more room for the large diameter socket that houses the halogen bulb. (Red arrow) That allowed the lamp to fit a little further into the bucket, but it's still about 3/16" from being seated all the way. Luckily, the locating notches in the buckets line up with the tabs cast into the lamps. But I still need to sink the lamp further into the bucket.

The bucket seats against the core support on three ribs (e.g. orange arrow) so I need to keep that part of the bucket. It looks like the best way to open up the bucket and get the lamp where it needs to be is to cut the outer ring off (at the yellow arrow) and replace the tapered section that's hitting the lamp with a custom piece with more clearance. Stay tuned...

[Vic1947]

After taking a fresh look at the headlamp fitment issue this morning, I decided to take a less drastic approach than I'd planned yesterday. The most obvious problem was the LED section on the back of the headlamp. It was hard up against the back of the bucket which was keeping the tabs on the back of the light from fitting into the locating notches.

I took these steps to make the lens fit. 1) I used a Dremel tool to cut a window for the LED section to fit into. 2) Also sliced from the window to the adjacent notch. 3) With pliers and a small hammer and dolly, I worked the area around the rim of the bucket to give it more clearance so the headlamp would drop further into the bucket. 4) Still had to lengthen the circumference slightly to get it all to fit. Did this by cutting the loose section close to the notch, opening up a small gap, then welding it back together.

The stainless rings that hold the headlamps into the buckets fit great now. Don't get me wrong, I had to tweak the buckets quite a bit to get everything to play nice together, but patience pays off. The first one fit really well right away, although I made a couple of cuts I didn't need and had to weld and grind them. Figured the second one would be a piece of cake, but it gave me more grief than the first. But they're all done except for painting which I'll do after finishing up my break time on the forum.

[Ol Blue K20]

Awesome job Vic, those are gonna look great.

[Vic1947]

The cab and doors have now been at the paint shop for over a month. Nothing to report progress-wise. I called him on Friday, but he sent the call straight to voicemail so I left a message asking for a status report. Never called back, so it's looking sort of grim. Unless he has some good news for me Monday, I may have to go pick up the parts and start over elsewhere. Disappointing to say the least.

Meanwhile, I decided to paint what I could in the shop. Laid down a couple of coats of white sealer on the bumpers, inner fenders and miscellaneous other parts. Shot the basecoat in Millennium Silver and then applied Matrix Matte Clear over it. The tech sheet recommended two wet coats with 10-15 min. flash time. The result had a bit more gloss than I was expecting... more satin than flat, but it looks pretty good. I laid the spray out cards with the body color up against them and it should look really nice. The body color has quite a bit of flop to it, and from some angles it almost matches the bumpers.

I went ahead and ordered the tach box from Classic Instruments to convert the VSS signal to what the electronic speedo needs. I've decided to skip any tuning software at the moment. We'll see how the GMPP tune works out of the box. If there are any issues, I'll address them down the road. BeDeeBeDeeBeDee... that's all, folks!

[Bennett68C10]

Looks great Vic, I like that color! Dig the new headlights too.

[Low Elco]

Wow, the bumpers pop! Sorry about the paint shop. I'd give you a couple names, but they're swamped.

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks great.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Looks great Vic, I like that color! Dig the new headlights too.

Thanks, Keith!

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Wow, the bumpers pop! Sorry about the paint shop. I'd give you a couple names, but they're swamped.

Thanks, Chip, it's the thought that counts. The good news is that I spoke to the shop this morning and they have color and a coat of clear on the cab and doors. Getting ready to sand the nibs and lay down the final coats of clear. The cab might actually be ready to pick up by the end of this week which would help me out quite a bit.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Looks great.

Thanks! Hopefully the matte silver works with the overall color I picked. Shop says it looks a bit more green than the spray out cards did, but that may be partly due to their fluorescent lighting.

Stay tuned...

[Low Elco]

great news!

[Vic1947]

Assembled the rear license filler panel and installed a flip down license holder so I can insert the ball mount into the receiver. Had to machine a little off the trim piece that goes around the plate, but it fits like socks on a rooster now. Kathy's already planning an RV trip for next year.

Also taped off the inner fenders and sprayed 3M Body Schutz on the undersides. At 95 degrees and 50% stupidity outside, it didn't take but a few minutes for it to dry to a nice finish. When I get the cab back, I plan to use the same stuff on the underside of the floorpan.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

At 95 degrees and 50% stupidity outside.

I got a good laugh out of that.

The bumper looks great painted, as I thought it would.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Assembled the rear license filler panel and installed a flip down license holder so I can insert the ball mount into the receiver. Had to machine a little off the trim piece that goes around the plate, but it fits like socks on a rooster now. Kathy's already planning an RV trip for next year.

Also taped off the inner fenders and sprayed 3M Body Schutz on the undersides. At 95 degrees and 50% stupidity outside, it didn't take but a few minutes for it to dry to a nice finish. When I get the cab back, I plan to use the same stuff on the underside of the floorpan.

lol: I thought I was the only one to use "fits like socks on a rooster" .

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I got a good laugh out of that.

The bumper looks great painted, as I thought it would.

Thanks, Brian!

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

lol: I thought I was the only one to use "fits like socks on a rooster" .

Nope, apparently it's you, me and an old buddy of mine in Houston.

I partially disassembled the wiring harness today to reroute the vehicle speed wiring which got me down to three wire bundles for the pass thru into the cab. Even though I don't have the cab here, I went ahead and started work on the access cover. As you can see, it's made out of two overlapping pieces of sheet metal that will encircle the wire looms. It will have rubber grommets to seal out the outside air. Probably have to use some RTV also once it all gets assembled and in place. I'll make it removable, although I hope to never have to do that.

[sduckworth13]

Nice work Vic!! The wiring harness looks great!!

[tune_1]

Vic,
Your work looks great.

Dwight

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Nice work Vic!! The wiring harness looks great!!

Originally Posted by tune_1

Vic,
Your work looks great.

Dwight

Thanks, guys! I stopped by Monday to see the paint on the cab and doors. They were in the middle of masking to shoot the top and back of the cab with the gloss clear. The low gloss interior and the cowl were done and the doors sanded and ready for the final coats of clear. Unfortunately, I forgot to take the camera, so I have no photos but what I saw looked great. Hopefully, they will have it cut and buffed by next week and I can bring the cab and doors home. We discussed bringing the front clip in and he said he was ready. I may take the fenders, grille and cowl cover to him tomorrow.

While I was there, I picked up the bezels for the instrument cluster and the glove box door. I've started wiring the gauges and hope to have all the wires collected into a single plug that I can easily disconnect for service in case the need arises. I made a mounting plate for the box that converts the trans signal to the speedometer input. There are three ways to calibrate it, but it looks like the marked mile method is the safest. The tach input signal is equivalent to a four cylinder, so there's a switch on the back of the tach to read it correctly. The quad cluster has matched analog senders feeding into it, so I think I should have a working set of instruments without needing to mess with the ECU.

[Xeen]

Very nice, I like those gauges and I like what you did with the carbon fiber accents on the instrument panel and glove box door.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Very nice, I like those gauges and I like what you did with the carbon fiber accents on the instrument panel and glove box door.

Thanks, Brian.

Got more wiring done on the instrument panel. Installed a terminal strip to bring all the wires together into a single area. Now I'm just waiting on a 12 pin connector I bought off of eBay to finish up the job.

I ran across a box the other day that came in the trunk of the Challenger we bought a couple of years ago. Had the sport covers for the pedals. I'd never installed them on the car and the more I looked at them, the more it seemed that with a little trimming, they could fit on the pedals for CRLS. Milled a 1/4" strip off the top and bottom of my brake pedal plate and the cover snapped right on. The Cadillac gas pedal took a bit more finesse, but the mill made quick work of the plastic pedal and the cover popped in place like it was meant to be there.

[Ol Blue K20]

Very nice, every thing looks so clean and concise.

[Low Elco]

Getting closer!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Oh My Vic, I can't get over the amount of work you have got done. That's crazy. Looks amazing and yes, I'm very jealous.
How long will you be in paint jail?

Thanks! Your timing is impeccable... I picked up the cab just this morning. The doors are nearly done, he just needs to buff the outside and matte clear the insides. I also dropped off the front clip while I had the truck and trailer. He has a guy working for him that's going to college to become a certified auto body tech. He has about three more weeks before summer break is over, so hopefully they'll get the clip done before he goes back to school.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Getting closer!

Amen to that, Chip! Few pics below. The color is called Springmist Green and was on '68 Firebirds and Camaros, although I think they called it Seafoam Green on the Chevys. It's a real pale green metallic that flops silver. Most folks think it's silver until they look closer. I'm somewhat color blind and I mostly see the green, but both Scott and your Dad thought the spray out cards looked silver. At any rate, it's not your run of the mill color. It should work nicely with the silver accents and the Mango Tango engine color.

[sduckworth13]

Wow!! Looks beautiful!

[sduckworth13]

If you need a hand with anything Vic just let me know.