Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by bowt1ed

Hey Dan, about to pull the trigger on a DD HDX myself. Would be interested to hear whether it seems to be as nice as advertised. Also, did you get their chrome bezel? If so, what was the quality. Looks to be about the same price as the standard guys (LMC, etc.). Oh, and I assume you bought it from them directly (?).

Thanks, Jim

I bought the chrome bezel from Classic Industries during a 25 or 30% off coupon. http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/cx1003.html. DD charges $100. It is decent quality. What you would expect from a typical reproduction part.

I bought my VHX kit from Matts Classic Bowties (a forum sponsor here), for less $ than anywhere else.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Jim & BiglaSS,

The HDX is supposed to arrive tomorrow, Saturday so I haven't seen the product yet. As soon as it arrives I'll check it out and of course post closeup pictures. For the price it better be tip top!

As for the chrome bezel I bought a new repop way back 4-5 years ago. The gauge cluster was one of the first things I restored back when I first got my truck. If you guys have read my early posts I did the interior panel Sage green!

[my56chevytruck]

Hey Dan, I haven't chimed into your posts for a while. just wanted to say, you're not going to like those new wheels. So, ship them out to me and I'll bear with them on your behalf!! that's what friends are for right?? lol
they look great and so does your truck.
Morrie

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ha ha, Hi Morrie. Thanks for chiming in.

I got off work early today and planned to try on the Boyd's to see how they'll look, take pictures from various angles. But I made myself do my weekend chores first (mow, wash cars, etc) but once I was done it was TOO DAMNED HOT (109*) so I didn't do it. I'll try again tomorrow.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Replacement photo for the one in post #2025 that was out of focus. Much clearer:

[my56chevytruck]

Well Dan, I guess you won't be sending me those nasty wheels so keep up the great work. 109 degrees huh? it's only 95 here, and that's TO DAMNED HOT!!!

p.s. those wheels are verrrrrrrry cool. I'm hoping for a new set of wheels in the near future.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Keep checking out Craigslist, etc. I lucked out big time finding all four of these for $300 - of course it cost me more than that having them repaired/polished but still way cheaper than new. I couldn't have bought them at all if i wanted new. They're out there. Just have to be patient....and a little lucky!

[Dan in Pasadena]

[U]Saturday, June 17, 2017/U]

The gauge cluster arrived today. Was in a box about 4x the size of the actual Dakota Digital HDX box inside with packing peanuts all around it. Seems to be all in one piece. I ordered one additional sensor; the one that provides the compass direction and ambient temperature info. This won't be installed for probably a month. Nothing much to see but a picture of a box, sorry.

[lower50's]

You are correct on how a relay works, they use less current to switch the load.
Yes use a relay for headlights, most switches are only rated for 10A and old headlight switches have less than good contacts.
There is nothing wrong with incandescent headlights, but they do use a lot of power.
The reason some people, myself included have switched to LED is, they give off a much brighter white light with a huge power reduction. Also last forever.
I used 13 relays in my truck. One reason is you can run smaller wires to the switches and mount the relays in convenient spots. IF a relay dies its a quick plug and play deal.
This is a Sylvania Silver Star Headlight vs LED. LED is on the right.
My panel I made in my passenger fire wall.
Hope this helps a bit. Great truck by the way!!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks L50, I still have question (of course!).

Does an LED headlight look physically the same from the outside when they're off? I don't care for the look of halo appearing headlights or frankly the look of any headlight that doesn't look like a conventional incandescent.

Let me further reveal my ignorance:

I want to use my stock '55 headlight switch in the dash (problem?) It turns power on/off to the relay and the relay then switches power on/off to the headlights, is this right?

Where do you recommend to buy LED headlights and what am I looking for? Ratings, sizes? Etc.
PS: Your panel? I have no idea what I'm looking at. I see 5 devices top center and 5 lower right that I'm guessing are the relays but no real idea. I see the junction blocks but don't know why they're being used and what it connected to them (besides the relays?) Sorry, just a dummy i guess.

[lower50's]

You can get a variety of lenses to suite your liking I got my stuff from Ebay. I have seen a lens that looks just like the stock light.
Here is a link to a thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=737431

You are correct on how to use your stock switch and relay.

I have 5 relays at the top and 5 relays at the bottom, just for spacing really. The other 2 are my fuse blocks with 10 fuses in each. Then the terminal strips I use for all the wires that are used in the truck. Hope that helps.

[Dan in Pasadena]

A random thought: if this conversion uses even less amperage draw than the sealed beam Sylvania SilverStars (or whatever they're called) that I already have, why should I use relays? I only ask because Mike; the builder, doesn't seem too keen on the need for using relays.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

A random thought: if this conversion uses even less amperage draw than the sealed beam Sylvania SilverStars (or whatever they're called) that I already have, why should I use relays? I only ask because Mike; the builder, doesn't seem too keen on the need for using relays.

Dan, I had the same thought, because I didn't want to change any of my wires and add a relay to the headlight switch. I changed mine over to LED and DID NOT add a relay, mine is working fine and I drive mine at night at least once a week or more. Don't get me wrong I use relays, for high amp stuff, but I felt that with less amps I didn't need it in mine..Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Jim for the info. I can't think of anything I will have in mine that's a high amperage draw with the possible exception of the AC. No power windows, seats, no actuators and no air suspension. Am I forgetting anything else?

I'm using the Dakota Digital HDX but all the lights in that are LED so I assume it doesn't draw much(?) Also planning on using Secret Audio as of now. It'll need an amp. Maybe that will need a delay?

[lower50's]

Like Jim said you do not need a relay, unless you are drawing close to 10A imo.
I did not put a relay in my Jeep for the LED headlights. I'm using the factory 50 year old switch.

[ptc]

Hi Dan, Looks like L50 got ya all covered in his explanations of the relay use vs. not....

Electrical stuff has been my lifes work since I was about 16 starting work at Atari Inc. being a test tech on their computer games way back when... my job was to play games and 'test' them. But I grew up in the silicone valley when it was just starting out so I figured that electronics or something associated with it might be a good calling for me... turns out I was right almost 40 years later....

Relays are exactly how you described - a switch for a switch... but its a BIG switch for a small or tiny switch that uses a small or tiny wire. You can basically operate a 10, 20, 30, 40 50, 70 100 amp load off of a micro switch that only has an ampacity capability of less than .01 amp.... Therefore your dash panel doesnt look like a hydro electric switching facility to cover your intended load.

Also anytime you have a 'motor' load for a fan motor, a pump motor, a window motor, etc. that motor has a startup load that is much greater than its running amperage. So a relay takes on that potential EXTRA load without affecting other circuits drawing off the same fuse panel.

A fuse is a protection method to protect your circuit wiring from burning, the fuse burns first when it becomes overloaded. A relay is made to TAKE the extra load by the virtue of the size of the contacts inside of it. The contacts are rated for 20-40 amps, 50-70 amps, and bigger too. The wire normally used for the primary switching circuit can be as small as 18 GA (my minimum) but Ive seen 22-26 gauge also used without a problem.

EXAMPLE: Try running a piece of 26 gauge wire between a battery (+) and a starter motor and see how long it takes to burn it up.... Now run that same 26 GA wire thru a relay that has a 70 AMP capacity and the load side wire as a 6 gauge and it will work all day long.

The other reason to use relays is your switching wires can be as long as you like in the smaller gauge wire and the load side wires (bigger ones) can be shorter. This makes for less expensive electrical installations....

if you need more info just ring!

[G&R's57GMC]

Patiences is a virtue .... But Dang ,the wait is unbearable !

Happy 4th Dan and everyone !

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Glen. The same to you and everyone. Happy 4th of July to all.

My truck has been sitting in the driveway for about two weeks. It's heading into the shop for final wiring, driveshaft, exhaust, front calipers & brake bleeding then get it running right. I'll be buying bedwood soon and starting the finishing process. Best, Dan

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Jotting down that the truck went back to the shop today for the "final push" - wiring, exhaust, a little fuel plumbing and install front calipers now that new, larger rims are available. Anyway, here's a photo for the record:

[G&R's57GMC]

Yea !

[oldman3]

Allright...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guys. I'm going to force myself to wait til Fri afternoon or Sat AM to go see if anything got done this week - iI don't really expect it. It's a short week and the shop was loaded.

Opinions: Debating with myself whether to use bedroll red lights as "3rd" brake lights, OR using the "Brakelighter"? I don't like the brake lighter suction cups on the glass, also dont much care to drill holes in my new interior paint for permanent brackets. If I use it I'll put polished stainless plugs in my bedrolls. Didn't weld them shut on purpose - cause everyone does.

http://jandlenterprise.com/products/brakelighter.htm

[II_Slow]

So that kit has "adhesive dots" too, so you don't have use the suction cups.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by II_Slow

So that kit has "adhesive dots" too, so you don't have use the suction cups.

Ahhh, good to know. But i assume the dots are still visible through the glass?

[G&R's57GMC]

It wouldn't hurt to add bedroll stop lights and they would also act as turn signals.

I added a center mounted 3rd brake light to my 'Cameo'. I made two brackets that mount to the sheet metal below the window and the LED light bolts to them.