Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Elliot949]

The bumpers look great.. the back certainly looks like it was easier to do than the front... LOL

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jeh

Vic, you nailed it on the front bumper.... I've looked at some trucks at the shows and always thought of how good that looked. As far as the rear, I would of never thought about doing what you've done, it looks awesome as well. Keep it up and get some paint on that thing.

Thanks, Jason. I'm falling behind my schedule a little bit, but it looks like spring may be here early, so I hope I can catch up.

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

X2 what Jason said . Awesome work Vic!

Hey, thanks Scott.

Originally Posted by Oregon 1967 GMC

Hope your Dad is doing alright.

Thanks for asking... he's had a few setbacks recently. Thought he might have broken a hip, but after multiple doctor visits, the MRI indicated he had a muscle tear in his hip (plus gallstones and a cyst on one of his kidneys)... no wonder he was in pain. He starts physical therapy in two weeks which was the first opening they had. He's a tough old bird, though. I'm sure he'll walk it off.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I like the way the back came out. Good job!

Thanks, Chip.

Originally Posted by Elliot949

The bumpers look great.. the back certainly looks like it was easier to do than the front... LOL

It definitely was, Dan. Plus I took it a lot slower on the welding so I didn't create as many problems as I did up front.

In between doctor appointments and other "stuff", I've been making a little progress. The front bumper is ready for a coat of Slick Sand and I've got the filler panel for the rear under construction. As with the front, the rear bumper is curved, so the filler panels have to be massaged to follow the bumper lip. Had to remove the tailgate for access, but once I had the filler panels cleco'd in place, I took off the rear bumper and started doing bodywork in earnest. More to come...

[Elliot949]

That is just sooo sweet... I can't wait to see this in person...

[Low Elco]

I like the just a hint of a peak in the rear filler.

This is gonna be too nice to leave in red oxide, just sayin'....

[knomadd]

I really like what you're doing Vic. It's going to look fantastic when you're all done.

[jlsanborn]

I've been lurking Vic but it's a PITA on the phone. Great looking work! I'm with Chip on the primer deal. I don't think you can stop there!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Elliot949

That is just sooo sweet... I can't wait to see this in person...

Thanks, Dan, I plan to take a break and drop in on a cruise night this spring when you have Papa J out and about 'cuz I'm dying to see it too.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I like the just a hint of a peak in the rear filler.
This is gonna be too nice to leave in red oxide, just sayin'....

Thanks, Chip! The rear bumper curves just like the front did, so naturally, the filler had to also.

Originally Posted by knomadd

I really like what you're doing Vic. It's going to look fantastic when you're all done.

Hey Duane, been following your driveshaft saga. Hope you're making progress.

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

I've been lurking Vic but it's a PITA on the phone. Great looking work! I'm with Chip on the primer deal. I don't think you can stop there!

Thanks, John, it's been fits and starts around here. Lots of other irons in the fire, but I have a little stretch coming up and I hope to get back going. The primer dealio is killing me too, but I'm determined to drive this puppy for a change. Nice looking stuff has a habit of sitting in the garage too much.

I had a nice day recently and shot some Slick Sand on the bumpers. The front is blocked and ready for a second coat, but the rear is still waiting its turn.

[Vic1947]

BIL Rick is here from Seattle and we were talking about my tailgate and how it would be a problem to install it with the filler panel in place. One thing led to another and next thing you know we were at Classic Parts getting a square body pivot. Unfortunately, it was too small and the bolt pattern wasn't right, but it served as an outstanding template. I determined the angle of the pivot was 20 degrees, so I threw mine up into the mill and lopped it off to make it the same width as the one from CP. A little welding and filing and next thing you know, it looks pretty much like the pattern except it fits CRLS. I notched the bottom of the tailgate on the right side and it works like gangbusters. Now someone can walk up and steal it just like they used to do when I lived in Houston.

[Elliot949]

What we did Vic was to weld the nut to the pivot and ran the bolt through the tail light opening.... worked great...

[Low Elco]

Very nice! Keeps you from dingin' up the paint when installing! I like the bolt trick too.

[Vic1947]

Our visitors have been gone for awhile now and I've been careening around between several project thingys on CRLS. Not getting a lot done, but moving from one thing to another creates the illusion of progress.

Before Rick took off to go back to Seattle, he helped me tear down the Flaming River steering column my good buddy Jay gifted me. It's a 30" paint-able tilt column, but was setup for column shift. I plan to run a B&M Megashifter, so the bowl and sleeve for the column had to be modified. I carefully removed the shift arm pivot and the gear indicator notch from the cast aluminum bowl and then filled the holes with JB Weld. Did the same to the illumination hole in the sleeve then sprayed both pieces with self etch primer. Spot filler took care of the pinholes and everything has been waiting for some decent weather to shoot Slick Sand and do final prep. We've had over 3" of rain this week and today is the first day it's been even somewhat nice.

I also whacked the end off the old steering rod and threw it up in the mill to extend the "double D" shape far enough to slip into the new column. So with a few nice days coming up, I hope to get the parts painted and reassembled.

Meanwhile, I did some more work on the filler panel out back. Added a lip to it that fits under the edge of the bumper and completely hides the brackets. While I was at it, I removed the bed from the frame and revised the frame mounting holes so I could move the bed forward a bit more and tighten up the gap between it and the cab. I slotted the bumper brackets on the mill so everything should be super adjustable now.

Also in the middle of all this, I inventoried all my parts to see what I had that would no longer work for the new drivetrain, etc. The new radiator is a nice HD aluminum direct fit for this truck. However, the inlet is on the driver side and the LS3 upper hose is situated slightly to the passenger side. Routing the hose to clear the pulleys and the air intake tube will be a little tight. Add in the fact the LS steam line needs to tie in somewhere. So I decided to use aluminum tubing for most of what I need and short lengths of rubber hose for the connections. Both the upper and lower hoses have different sizes on each end, so I have a plan for the crossover.

What I don't have is a tool to roll a bead at the end of the straight aluminum tube to prevent the hose from blowing off under pressure. There are several solutions that range from crude to elegant... with prices to match. I saw a homemade tool on You Tube that looks like it would do a good job, so I've begun machining the parts I need to build a clone. More on that later.

[Xeen]

Making plans are part of the deal so it sounds like you are making plenty of progress. I'm looking forward to hearing what you are going to do about interior, and the first fire of the new engine.

[jlsanborn]

Sooooo clean! Anxious to see this bead-roller deal for the tubing and all that plumbing.

[sduckworth13]

Vic, you always go above and beyond... Nice work!

[Vic1947]

Thanks, guys. Been making some small progress, but still bouncing around a lot between tasks. The Derale fan shroud and controller arrived on the brown truck the other day, so I finally had to make some decisions about radiator fitment and such. The HD aluminum radiator was too thick for the stock pieces that hold the rubber cushions, so I had to drill the spot welds, remove them and lengthen them 7/16" to fit the longer cushions I picked up at Classic. Notched the core support so they'd fit and welded them in. Also had to narrow the aluminum strips on the radiator that fit into the cushions, but once that was done, the assembly fit like a glove.

I also received the aluminum tubing for the radiator hose. Mocked up what I need lengthwise, but haven't welded out anything as yet. Still waiting on bearings for my homemade tubing beader. I've machined a few pieces but still have quite a bit to do. Even at machinist apprentice rates, I'll probably have $500 in labor to save the $250 it would have cost for a ready made one. Sneak peek below...

[Vic1947]

I also decided to get rid of the stock parking light assemblies and use headlamps that have built in LED turn signals / park lights. Being lazy and cheap, I decided against scrounging a grille and cannibalizing the upper shelf. So I made some filler pieces and used 3M adhesive to glue them in place. They're ready for bondo when I can work it in my schedule.

[Low Elco]

Nice! This is turning out pretty trick. Are you going on Power Tour?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Nice! This is turning out pretty trick. Are you going on Power Tour?

Thx, Chip. We're probably only going out the first day in KC. We're planning a late summer road trip across Canada and one long haul is enough for us.

[mcbassin]

Very nice work on everything Vic! I like the bender project too. That's right in my wheelhouse. I do that kind of stuff all the time. I have a long machinist background.

[Possmguts]

Dang Vic... This level of build is something I could only dream of. I'm so jealous not only of what you are able to do but of that shop as well... I may have to stop checking in on you because it always makes me wanna just burn mine lol

I cant even get the 3 stupid SS brake line sections I need flared done right now... I should have never gone that route.

You are doing a Beautiful Job!!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice work on everything Vic! I like the bender project too. That's right in my wheelhouse. I do that kind of stuff all the time. I have a long machinist background.

Thanks, Mike! I finally finished the tubing beader just today. Still waiting on a 40mm silicone hose (coming from Australia) to get back on the radiator hose project, but at least the beader works. Photos below...

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Dang Vic... This level of build is something I could only dream of. I'm so jealous not only of what you are able to do but of that shop as well... I may have to stop checking in on you because it always makes me wanna just burn mine lol

I cant even get the 3 stupid SS brake line sections I need flared done right now... I should have never gone that route.

You are doing a Beautiful Job!!

Thanks a million for the kind words! I need to be propped up now and then when things go south. I know what you're saying about SS lines. PITA! I gave up trying to get my old flaring tools to work on them and invested in the Inline Tube / Eastwood style setup. It's much much better, but not foolproof. I usually do a couple of test pieces to get the hang of it. Then hold my breath on the actual line.

The tube beading project has finally ended, except for doing the actual pieces I plan to use. I've done three beads, two successfully, one not so much. What I found is that if you have tubing with inconsistent wall thickness, you have to start on the thickest section and work it back and forth until you get it started all the way around. The mandrel bends I bought were either deformed during bending or the tubing was crap from the factory.

The beader body is made from a chunk of 1" X 3" aluminum about 6" long. The block that holds the male roller is Delrin with a bronze bushing pressed in that the roller rotates in. The female roller is a piece of 17-4 stainless that I had previously made for a brake piston project. I parted it off and used a R12ZZ bearing so it free wheels. The male roller and the shaft the bearing is pressed onto are 12L14 steel. I recessed a small brass disc into the Delrin where the adjuster bolt contacts it to distribute the load. The whole thing cost less than $25 since most of the stuff was in my junk boxes. And it only took me two weeks...

[Low Elco]

I've seen it in person, and the beader is cool! Makes me wanna stay late at work and make one for myself.

Thanks again for the help yesterday, Vic. Had a fun day and Yeller is back on the ground. Please also thank Miss Kathy for the awesome lunch! We appreciate it.

(Guys, I've seen it in person, and this truck is gonna be awesome!)

[swamp rat]

Nice work on the tool Vic!

[Oregon 1967 GMC]

wow what a underachiever I am (but damn proud of it lol), It's always interesting to see what you got cooking. Keep up the fire!

[bevis1]

Even the handle is "elegant"!! Nice goin'