'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Frizzle Fry]

...also been working on engine paint prep:






Clear coated oil pan:

[67ChevyRedneck]

I don't know why, but this pic screams "toy model engine" to me (looks like a plastic model kit motor)

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Twisted78SS

Looking Great Mike!

Can't wait to see you rippin it up out at PIR in 2015!

Me too!

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I don't know why, but this pic screams "toy model engine" to me (looks like a plastic model kit motor)

It's the selective focus effect.

[mcbassin]

Very nice progress on the body work and engine prep.

[carboncrew]

That blue! Have a I mentioned I love it....ohh yeah I have

I love this thing

[67ChevyRedneck]

Wait... I just noticed this thing is a FOUR DOOR? I think you should take care of that. Should only take you a day or two to covert it to a 2 door?







I kid, I kid...

[MP&C]

But it's a grocery getter with attitude....

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

i heared about a guy once that had serious door fitment issues , he welded on gasweldingrod to the doors edge and filed that down untill her had propper doorgaps allround , takes a bit of time but if the doors are to small to fit the gap its a good solution

That option is on the table. We'll do whatever it takes!

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice progress on the body work and engine prep.

Thanks mayne

Originally Posted by carboncrew

That blue! Have a I mentioned I love it....ohh yeah I have

I love this thing

glad you're enjoying it!

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Wait... I just noticed this thing is a FOUR DOOR? I think you should take care of that. Should only take you a day or two to covert it to a 2 door?

Believe me, I've seriously considered it. Renderings and all. ..must ...resist

Originally Posted by MP&C

But it's a grocery getter with attitude....

It does have a little 'tude back with the doors on again. Remember it's sitting high with no weight in it. Will be moar low = more 'tude

[IADC43]

This is the next logical step, after it is all buttoned up and zooming you around town...

[watahyahknow]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmiCR5TPIVg

mighty carmods , they have a bunch of vids on youtube , there funny at times
most are based on the asian tuningscene

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by IADC43

This is the next logical step, after it is all buttoned up and zooming you around town...

...but just for the record I shaved the Honda Logo and VTEC lettering from the coil cover for a reason.

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmiCR5TPIVg

mighty carmods , they have a bunch of vids on youtube , there funny at times
most are based on the asian tuningscene

Yep, know them. They're funny dudes.

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

...but just for the record I shaved the Honda Logo and VTEC lettering from the coil cover for a reason.

i'm going to try to hide the engines origine as whell when i'm done with it
see i need to pull the v8 out of my truck and change it back to an inline 6 as the former owner "forgot" to reregister the truck from inline 6 to v8
if i reregister it now it whont be a classic truck no more (new regulations require the truck to be 2/3th original and i lost the cab vinplate) the rdw here stamps their number intoo the framerails so its still legal as long a i stay away from them asking to reregister it and safe myself from having to pay (a lot of) roadtax to be able to drive it around

a chevy 6 that is suposed to go intoo the truck cost a lot of money here for the amount of engine (low power and realy old ) i get (in the old days it was the other way around and the v8's where like gold)
so my plan is to use a jaguar aj6 (100 bucks for a 20 year old engine compared to 500 for a 40 year old chevy) its a 6 inline all aluminium with 24 valves

good thing about the engine is theres not realy any cast in jaguar logo and the valvecover could eazily be an aftermarket item from edelbrock
another good thing about this engine is that some jaguars had a 4l80E and that will bolt to this motor and take the existing linkage in the chevy truck
the only thing i'm conserned about is that the motor is mounted slightly to the driver side and might interfere with the brakebooster and master cilinder

[watahyahknow]

looked for 5x114 on google and ended up on
Dodge - Avenger - (67.1)
Honda - Accord vanaf 2008 - (64.1)
Mazda - MX-5 (NB en NC vanaf 2003) - (67.1)
Mazda - RX7 - (59.6)
Mazda - RX8 - (67.1)
Nissan - 200SX S14 - (66.1)
Subaru - Impreza Turbo - (56.1)
Toyota - Supra MK3 - (60.1)
Toyota - Supra MK4 - (60.1)

theres allso a 5x114.3 that should work in a jam if you hog the holes out a bit :
Chevrolet - Leganza - (56.6)
Chrysler - 300M - (71.5)
Chrysler - Voyager tot 2001 - (71.5)
Chrysler - Voyager vanaf 2001 - (71.5)
Daihatsu - Terios tot 2006 - (66.6)
Daihatsu - Terios vanaf 2006 - (66.6)
Dodge - Caliber - (67.1)
Dodge - Nitro - (71.5)
Ford - Explorer - (70.5)
Ford - Probe - (67.1)
Honda - Accord vanaf 2003 - (64.1)
Honda - Civic Type R - (64.1)
Honda - CR-V - (64.1)
Honda - FR-V - (64.1)
Honda - HR-V - (64.1)
Honda - S2000 achteras - (64.1)
Honda - S2000 vooras - (70.2)
Honda - Stream - (56.1)
Hyundai - Coupe vanaf 2002 - (67.1)
Hyundai - Santa Fe - (67.1)
Hyundai - Sonata - (67.1)
Hyundai - Trajet - (67.1)
Hyundai - Tucson - (67.1)
Hyundai - XG - (67.1)
Infiniti - EX37 - (66.1)
Infiniti - FX (35/45/50) - (66.1)
Infiniti - G35 - (66.1)
Infiniti - G37 Coupe - (66.1)
Jeep - Cherokee - (71.6)
Jeep - Grand Cherokee tot 99 - (71.6)
Jeep - Wrangler - (71.6)
Kia - Carens vanaf 2006 - (67.1)
Kia - Carnival - (67.1)
Kia - Ceed - (67.1)
Kia - Soul - (67.1)
Kia - Sportage vanaf 2004 - (67.1)
Kia - Venga - (67.1)
Land Rover - Freelander tot 2006 - (54.1)
Lexus - GS 300/430 - (60.1)
Lexus - IS 200/250/300 - (60.1)
Lexus - LS 400/430 - (60.1)
Lexus - SC 430 - (60.1)
Mazda - 3 - (67.1)
Mazda - 5 - (67.1)
Mazda - 6 - (67.1)
Mazda - 626 - (67.1)
Mazda - MPV - (67.1)
Mazda - MX-6 - (67.1)
Mazda - Premacy - (67.1)
Mazda - Tribute - (67.1)
Mazda - Xedos 6/9 - (67.1)
Mitsubishi - Eclipse - (67.1)
Mitsubishi - Grandis - (67.1)
Mitsubishi - L300 / L400 - (67.1)
Mitsubishi - Lancer - (67.1)
Mitsubishi - Outlander - (67.1)
Mitsubishi - Panjero Pinin - (67.1)
Mitsubishi - Space Wagon tot 99 - (67.1)
Nissan - 300ZX Z32 - (66.1)
Nissan - 350z - (66.1)
Nissan - 370Z - (66.1)
Nissan - Almera Tino - (66.1)
Nissan - Maxima QX - (66.1)
Nissan - Murano - (66.1)
Nissan - Primera vanaf 2002 - (66.1)
Nissan - Qashqai - (66.1)
Nissan - X-Trail - (66.1)
Peugeot - 4007 - (67.1)
Renault - Koleos - (66.1)
Renault - Laguna 3 vanaf 2008 - (66.1)
Renault - Megane 3 vanaf 2008 - (66.1)
Subaru - B9 Tribeca - ()
Suzuki - Grand vitara vanaf 2005 - (60.1)
Suzuki - Swift Sport 2006 - (60.1)
Suzuki - SX4 - (60.1)
Toyota - Auris - (60.1)
Toyota - Avensis III - (60.1)
Toyota - Avensis Verso - (60.1)
Toyota - Camry - (60.1)
Toyota - Celica vanaf 1999 - (54.1)
Toyota - Corolla Verso - (60.1)
Toyota - Hi-Ace tot 1995 - (67.1)
Toyota - MR2 tot 2001 - (60.1)
Toyota - Picnic - (60.1)
Toyota - Previa - (60.1)
Toyota - Rav4 - (60.1)
theres a LOT more choice there

another thing you could do is remove the front brakecalipers from the disks and stick a piece of steel between the pads about brakedisksize and hang them to the frame before driving it intoo the paintbooth
that way you can basicly jam the wheels against the disk and it will still be able to roll and brake , you can even stuff plasic in there so theres no paint landing on the disks

[Frizzle Fry]

Thanks guys. I'll look at those. I'd really like them not to have a bunch of holes like a spare.

[Marty68]

this build is Awesome. i have pondered over it several times. i wish i had your patience persistance and abilities. i would be tempted to leave those door gaps alone, except you would for EVER see them and say i should have... then you will blow it apart and make it a two door. part of what makes this car awesome is that IT IS A 4 DR.

[Frizzle Fry]

Long/short: the body shop didn't touch the car the whole time I was out of town in December... Some door alignment progress was made this week. I'm heading over there after work tonight help figure out how to tweak/trim/beat to improve the doors fit. There's more to the door alignment story I'll get to in the next update.

[38chevyhotrod]

Still following your project, i am loving the work you're doing on it.
Saw this come by on my facebook page.
http://bangshift.com/general-news/ca...ome-homebuilt/

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 38chevyhotrod

Still following your project, i am loving the work you're doing on it.
Saw this come by on my facebook page.
http://bangshift.com/general-news/ca...ome-homebuilt/

Thanks Man. I saw that. Nice write-up. Especially appreciated when the project feels stagnated. But I assure you it's pressing on. Just came from there. Door gaps are coming along (finally!!).

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Door gaps are coming along (finally!!).

Funny! Speaking of door gaps, last night I was out in the shop with my wife and kid looking at the faded paint, door dings, rust bubbles and door gaps on the Amazon. My wife and kid were completely unaware of those things. Saying how good of shape its in. Makes my job easier.
.
Your car will be so cool, being better than original! (in so many ways)

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 38chevyhotrod

Still following your project, i am loving the work you're doing on it.
Saw this come by on my facebook page.
http://bangshift.com/general-news/ca...ome-homebuilt/

Very cool write up. Congrats

It will be so cool for you to get this puppy back from paint.....ready to see another video

[knomadd]

Loved seeing that video. Makes me want to go out and get another project! Just wish I had the skills you have to do something like that. Awesome job so far. Can't wait to see it out of paint prison!

[attack eagle]

Just read the entire thread, took two days. Well done!
I feel anything else I could have said has been said, so I will leave it at that!

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very cool write up. Congrats

It will be so cool for you to get this puppy back from paint.....ready to see another video

Thanks man! I am working with the bodyshop tuesday and thursday nights to get it done ASAP (they work on it in my absence as well). Bruce the owner says my goal of having it back on the road this summer is a pipe-dream. We shall see...

Originally Posted by knomadd

Loved seeing that video. Makes me want to go out and get another project! Just wish I had the skills you have to do something like that. Awesome job so far. Can't wait to see it out of paint prison!

I wish I took more video when it was driving. It was incredible... Next time.

Originally Posted by NONHOG

Funny! Speaking of door gaps, last night I was out in the shop with my wife and kid looking at the faded paint, door dings, rust bubbles and door gaps on the Amazon. My wife and kid were completely unaware of those things. Saying how good of shape its in. Makes my job easier.
.
Your car will be so cool, being better than original! (in so many ways)

They may not be conscious of the aesthetic impact of uniform gaps, but they would most likely find a car with proper gaps more appealing than one with what I started with (gaposys majora). But I support blissful ignorance

Originally Posted by attack eagle

Just read the entire thread, took two days. Well done!
I feel anything else I could have said has been said, so I will leave it at that!

Right on attack eagle It takes some serious dedication to read this whole thread at this point (not sure I could do it )

[Frizzle Fry]

Since pics are worth more than any words. Here's just a small flavor of what we were dealing with:







Not sure if I ever mentioned this, but the original drivers side doors had previous repairs discovered during the blasting process. I opted to go with the solid set of doors I happened to have available from that brown car that made a brief appearance in this thread.

Welllllll, we found that the blue hinges didn't work with the brown doors, which was the first clue something was off. The brown hinges got us much closer, but still not great. We even tried the original doors, which fit gap-wise much better than the now fully blasted and epoxy primered "brown doors."

Though they appear reddish-brown, that's the factory primer on the original doors.





But the final desicion was to make the better doors fit the car, or more accurately, make the car fit the better doors.

Last pic is of the doors seal. The car had seals on the doors' perimeter. The door opening/aperture had a woven/fabric cover over the pinch weld.

My rubber supplier in Australia (Frank Schoenberger) sent me pics of the profile he specs for these. Turns out the Rootes Group fitted these cars with body mounted seals in some countries, and door mounted seals in others.

What to do...? I'm going to attempt to run both. Hopefully I won't have to slam the doors...

Here's the body pinch weld mounted aperture seal profile:


And here's the door perimeter seal profile:

[mcmlxix]

Did I miss it .. what mirrors are you going to use?