Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks L50, I still have question (of course!).

Does an LED headlight look physically the same from the outside when they're off? I don't care for the look of halo appearing headlights or frankly the look of any headlight that doesn't look like a conventional incandescent.

Let me further reveal my ignorance:

I want to use my stock '55 headlight switch in the dash (problem?) It turns power on/off to the relay and the relay then switches power on/off to the headlights, is this right?

Where do you recommend to buy LED headlights and what am I looking for? Ratings, sizes? Etc.
PS: Your panel? I have no idea what I'm looking at. I see 5 devices top center and 5 lower right that I'm guessing are the relays but no real idea. I see the junction blocks but don't know why they're being used and what it connected to them (besides the relays?) Sorry, just a dummy i guess.

[lower50's]

You can get a variety of lenses to suite your liking I got my stuff from Ebay. I have seen a lens that looks just like the stock light.
Here is a link to a thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=737431

You are correct on how to use your stock switch and relay.

I have 5 relays at the top and 5 relays at the bottom, just for spacing really. The other 2 are my fuse blocks with 10 fuses in each. Then the terminal strips I use for all the wires that are used in the truck. Hope that helps.

[Dan in Pasadena]

A random thought: if this conversion uses even less amperage draw than the sealed beam Sylvania SilverStars (or whatever they're called) that I already have, why should I use relays? I only ask because Mike; the builder, doesn't seem too keen on the need for using relays.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

A random thought: if this conversion uses even less amperage draw than the sealed beam Sylvania SilverStars (or whatever they're called) that I already have, why should I use relays? I only ask because Mike; the builder, doesn't seem too keen on the need for using relays.

Dan, I had the same thought, because I didn't want to change any of my wires and add a relay to the headlight switch. I changed mine over to LED and DID NOT add a relay, mine is working fine and I drive mine at night at least once a week or more. Don't get me wrong I use relays, for high amp stuff, but I felt that with less amps I didn't need it in mine..Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Jim for the info. I can't think of anything I will have in mine that's a high amperage draw with the possible exception of the AC. No power windows, seats, no actuators and no air suspension. Am I forgetting anything else?

I'm using the Dakota Digital HDX but all the lights in that are LED so I assume it doesn't draw much(?) Also planning on using Secret Audio as of now. It'll need an amp. Maybe that will need a delay?

[lower50's]

Like Jim said you do not need a relay, unless you are drawing close to 10A imo.
I did not put a relay in my Jeep for the LED headlights. I'm using the factory 50 year old switch.

[ptc]

Hi Dan, Looks like L50 got ya all covered in his explanations of the relay use vs. not....

Electrical stuff has been my lifes work since I was about 16 starting work at Atari Inc. being a test tech on their computer games way back when... my job was to play games and 'test' them. But I grew up in the silicone valley when it was just starting out so I figured that electronics or something associated with it might be a good calling for me... turns out I was right almost 40 years later....

Relays are exactly how you described - a switch for a switch... but its a BIG switch for a small or tiny switch that uses a small or tiny wire. You can basically operate a 10, 20, 30, 40 50, 70 100 amp load off of a micro switch that only has an ampacity capability of less than .01 amp.... Therefore your dash panel doesnt look like a hydro electric switching facility to cover your intended load.

Also anytime you have a 'motor' load for a fan motor, a pump motor, a window motor, etc. that motor has a startup load that is much greater than its running amperage. So a relay takes on that potential EXTRA load without affecting other circuits drawing off the same fuse panel.

A fuse is a protection method to protect your circuit wiring from burning, the fuse burns first when it becomes overloaded. A relay is made to TAKE the extra load by the virtue of the size of the contacts inside of it. The contacts are rated for 20-40 amps, 50-70 amps, and bigger too. The wire normally used for the primary switching circuit can be as small as 18 GA (my minimum) but Ive seen 22-26 gauge also used without a problem.

EXAMPLE: Try running a piece of 26 gauge wire between a battery (+) and a starter motor and see how long it takes to burn it up.... Now run that same 26 GA wire thru a relay that has a 70 AMP capacity and the load side wire as a 6 gauge and it will work all day long.

The other reason to use relays is your switching wires can be as long as you like in the smaller gauge wire and the load side wires (bigger ones) can be shorter. This makes for less expensive electrical installations....

if you need more info just ring!

[G&R's57GMC]

Patiences is a virtue .... But Dang ,the wait is unbearable !

Happy 4th Dan and everyone !

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Glen. The same to you and everyone. Happy 4th of July to all.

My truck has been sitting in the driveway for about two weeks. It's heading into the shop for final wiring, driveshaft, exhaust, front calipers & brake bleeding then get it running right. I'll be buying bedwood soon and starting the finishing process. Best, Dan

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Jotting down that the truck went back to the shop today for the "final push" - wiring, exhaust, a little fuel plumbing and install front calipers now that new, larger rims are available. Anyway, here's a photo for the record:

[G&R's57GMC]

Yea !

[oldman3]

Allright...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guys. I'm going to force myself to wait til Fri afternoon or Sat AM to go see if anything got done this week - iI don't really expect it. It's a short week and the shop was loaded.

Opinions: Debating with myself whether to use bedroll red lights as "3rd" brake lights, OR using the "Brakelighter"? I don't like the brake lighter suction cups on the glass, also dont much care to drill holes in my new interior paint for permanent brackets. If I use it I'll put polished stainless plugs in my bedrolls. Didn't weld them shut on purpose - cause everyone does.

http://jandlenterprise.com/products/brakelighter.htm

[II_Slow]

So that kit has "adhesive dots" too, so you don't have use the suction cups.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by II_Slow

So that kit has "adhesive dots" too, so you don't have use the suction cups.

Ahhh, good to know. But i assume the dots are still visible through the glass?

[G&R's57GMC]

It wouldn't hurt to add bedroll stop lights and they would also act as turn signals.

I added a center mounted 3rd brake light to my 'Cameo'. I made two brackets that mount to the sheet metal below the window and the LED light bolts to them.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thursday, July 6, 2017

So here are the pic's of the seat frame assembled with the new bolts/washers. Looks fine to me as is. Anyone think it looks weird?

I chased the powder coating out of the threads with the Lang thred chaseers, easy-peasy. The Bolts ran in easily. I'll polish the SSwashers though there's really no need. I have the plastic end pieces for the seat back adjustment bolt already - got to dig them out.

Does anyone know if the seat back adjusters originally had a rubber bumper on them?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oops, forgot the photos:

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Just an update to this status "Log"

Ordered Billet Specialities 3rd brake light last night
Stopped at the shop today:
- Stored parts had been brought out
- AC mounting bracket & bulkhead fittings are re-mounted, AC hoses will be in wheel well.
- Vintage Air control panel finally installed in dash for 1st time.
- Core support removed
- Turns out PS reservoir is in the way of the mechanical fan. Either it will be moved to core support or an electric fan will be substituted. If used it may be replaced by a shortened stainless radiator catch can so it looks better.
- We discussed the engine clearence to firewall again. Mike insists it won't hit firewall, I said I am ok with it for now but if it hits, i am going to want it moved forward 1/2"
- I need to get to the Car & Truck Shop to buy new rear leaf front spring "pins" bed wood & stainless strips.
* Anyone seen the difference between std and "premium" oak bedwood kits Brothers sell? Supposedly better matching grain between boards but I wonder if it's worth considering?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yesterday's/today's activities:

Visited The Truck Shop today and bought the oak bedwood, polished stainless strips and bolt kit. Also some new pins for the front of the rear leaf springs and the under bed rubber pads.

Stopped by the shop today to see reassembly in progress:

- AC unit is back in dash and I saw the (shiny!) VA control panel IN dash for the first time.
- The evaporator and condensor have finally been mounted to the core support.
- Spent some time discussing the fuse panel mount location and wire routing. Nothing will show when done. It'll be directly under the cluster on a fabricated aluminum piece attached to the dash reinforcement. Routing through toeboard and headlight/signal wires routed in wheel well and across core support out of sight.
- Optima battery will be behind passenger of bench seat. I need to look for a tray.

I'm working on the bench seat frames and sliders. Looking for some kind of dry lube that won't be greasy/gloppy. Considering taking seat to upholsterer before truck is done to get a head start and get truck done sooner!

I'll stop by the shop again tomorrow to pay the weekly bill and of course see what else has been done. (Bad) Pic's below:

[Dan in Pasadena]

Friday, July 14, 2017

Change in plans on AC hoses:
- Four individual bulkhead fittings will penetrate the inner fender as low & forward as possible on the passenger side below the condensor instead of a single unit w/4 ganged fittings. In the pic below 3 will be on the flat sheet metal you see below and one further back out of sight of this pic.
- The fuse panel will be bolted to the special panel Mike fabbed. For what it is it's nicely done with nutserts, painted satin black, etc. No one will ever see it but I like knowing it was done right.
- And the obligatory bling picture. The closeup of the chrome control panel.
EDIT:
- I forgot to mention my formerly brushed finish Flaming River steering column I got cheaply off Craigslist was sent out to be polished and came back FAST. But I forgot to get a pic. Looks SO good.


PS: Sorry, I don't know why direct loading (to avoid Photobucket) causes the pictures to load sideways.

[ChuckDriver]

Slowly but surely Dan, looking good!!

[G&R's57GMC]

Looking goood Dan.

Is the top of the dash finish going to stay shiny red ?
If so it will present a nasty glare under certain conditions.

My buddy did the shiny finish and to make matters worse chromed the trim at the bottom of the w/s . Talk about being blinded from the glare.

The factory finish was a textured flat black on the upper part that looks like it should be a padded dash.
This is the finish on my '56 & '57 and there is no glare.
Just a heads up.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi Glen,
Yup, it's going to stay shiny. My Dad's '59 Fleetside long bed had that textured black finish I remember. If glare is an issue I'll get a dash cover just for the times it's an issue. The rest of the time I'd roll it up and put it behind the seat.

Tonight, there's a pretty large local car show on Brand Blvd. in Glendale. I'm going to check out interior colors in red and maroon/burgundy cars and also to shop for small details like speaker grills, AC vents, and under dash valances. All that stuff is yet to be decided.

[G&R's57GMC]

Some ideas ...