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#2076 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 903
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
For Sale items have to be placed in the proper Classified Area http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=62
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1969 C20 CUSTOM "RUMBLEr" |
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#2077 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 903
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
anyone know when the next meet is
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1969 C20 CUSTOM "RUMBLEr" |
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#2078 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upland Ca
Posts: 4,143
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
A little spam?
That was taken care of fast, thank you!
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1972 C10 SWB, Air, PS, PB, 350/350THM. Second owner. 1965 Corvette roadster, 44K miles, 327/365 SHP, 4 speed, side exhaust, knockoffs, teak, second owner (bought in 1970), Have ALL numbers matching components. My frame off restoration thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556703 |
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#2079 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 292
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
Ok, guys, where do you all recommend getting an Automatic Transmission fluid dipstick and filler tube from? I want to get one new since I don't want to take any chances with a used one from the pick a part. I think I finally narrowed down my leaking trans fluid issue with a rusting out area on my filler tube where the bracket attaches to it. I have a TH350.
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1978 C-10 Custom Deluxe | I6 250 | SWB | Stepside |
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#2080 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: los angeles,ca
Posts: 3,617
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
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#2081 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 292
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
Cool, let me see who has them. I think I've heard of them. Aren't they kind of expensive though?
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1978 C-10 Custom Deluxe | I6 250 | SWB | Stepside |
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#2082 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 903
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
any one know of a good brake shop , around the area i need to do my brake swap and i need it done right so thats is why i am not attempting to do it my self hhhaha
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1969 C20 CUSTOM "RUMBLEr" |
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#2083 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Edwards, CA
Posts: 7,503
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
Playing around the DMV site and was amazed this shows as available. Of course any background goes, but this looked so right. If you want them go for it, there is going to be only one set.
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Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID ** Blazer SPID ** Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders ** Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? ** Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban |
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#2084 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 903
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
Ttt for a paint shop around us ... The insurance is making me lay the wood In my bed so i said wtf mine as well paint it hahah I'm going to be living in my truck after it's done . So if you guys see me sleeping my truck stop by and say hi
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1969 C20 CUSTOM "RUMBLEr" |
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#2085 |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 298
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
TTT for cruising or get togethers in Orange County. I have a 71 c10 ochre longbed and i saw another one today in Fullerton. Anyone know who that is?
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#2086 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 292
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
I was curious why they are making you do that? What is the insurance company? Mine didn't mention anything at all about my rotted wood bed covered by a slab of plywood or something or other, I got.
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1978 C-10 Custom Deluxe | I6 250 | SWB | Stepside |
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#2087 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 903
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
its AAA i told the guy over the phone and he said no problem then he calls me and is like if i dont fix were going to drop you and charge you a cancellation fee .... damm insurance companys
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1969 C20 CUSTOM "RUMBLEr" |
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#2088 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 292
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
Wow. That's insane
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1978 C-10 Custom Deluxe | I6 250 | SWB | Stepside |
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#2089 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: san diego ca
Posts: 618
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
AAA sucks they have dropped the ball on my insurance to many times. One time they didnt cancel my policy even though i went into the office to take care or it. Another time they didnt get medical on my full coverage, caught that when we went to use it. Had to use a lawyer to straighten it out. They wouldnt write a full coverage policy on my 74 at a ten grand value. Im done with them.
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#2090 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 903
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
It was hard enough to find a company that would insure my truck that I could use it as a DD .. AAA was the cheapest , the dude told me what every I wanted to hear over the phone to get me buy the insurance . Now they got me where they want me lol
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1969 C20 CUSTOM "RUMBLEr" |
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#2091 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: So. Cali.
Posts: 2,643
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I'm using Farmers , no hassles , daily driver .
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-Nate Geezer '49 3100 235 W/ Muncie SM420 SOLD '69 C/10 shortbed sidemount survivor 250 L6 W/ 350TH ![]() |
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#2092 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 292
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
Hi guys, I have a quick question. Which tube do I hook up my vacuum gauge to? I have an inline 6 with a carb. But I don't know which model I have. I found a diagram for the vacuum lines but am not sure which one I need to use to measure the vacuum.
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1978 C-10 Custom Deluxe | I6 250 | SWB | Stepside |
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#2093 |
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![]() Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA 91377 (Oak Park)
Posts: 80
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
LA Craigslist: 1973 Chev Cheyenne Super 20 Camper Special 4 x 4 (Oak Park)
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...406470920.html |
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#2094 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: So. Cali.
Posts: 2,643
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Easy-Peasy ! .
It depends on what carby you have , unhook the various small vacuum hoses until you find one with a strong vacuum @ idle ~ when you disconnect the correct one , it'll whistle loudly , the engine will briefly speed up then die ~ connect it there , using a 'T' fitting and some new hose , 99 % of the time to old hoses are stiff and leaky ~ if any vacuum hose is easy to pull off it is BAD and making your engine suffer . Let me know if you want to learn how to use this gauge to adjust the carby's idle mixture . -Nate |
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#2095 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Escondido
Posts: 700
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Re: SoCal checkin' in
I just switched to Poway General who writes for mercury and hagarty. Customer service was great. They insure the 67 and 06 with no questions, Farmers couldnt touch there price for the equal coverage. Really happy with them.
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#2096 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: So. Cali.
Posts: 2,643
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I'm using Farmers Ins. Co. here in Cali , not hassles atall , not the cheapest but they bind me with no worries .
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-Nate Geezer '49 3100 235 W/ Muncie SM420 SOLD '69 C/10 shortbed sidemount survivor 250 L6 W/ 350TH ![]() |
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#2097 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 292
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Re: Vacuum Gauge
Quote:
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1978 C-10 Custom Deluxe | I6 250 | SWB | Stepside |
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#2098 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 292
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Re: Vacuum Gauge
Quote:
Hey that last bit about the easy to pull off hose may be true. The hose to my PCV valve is pretty easy to pull off the manifold port. I think that may be causing my engine to run really rough. I have to replace my EGR valve possibly as that may be bad too. I'm just trying to figure out why my engine is just having issues and running really rough before it warms up.
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1978 C-10 Custom Deluxe | I6 250 | SWB | Stepside |
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#2099 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: So. Cali.
Posts: 2,643
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Any time any vacuum hose is easily removed , it needs replacing straightaway as it's leaking vacuum and this is always a bad thing .
Periodically you should give any hose under the hood a slight tug when the engine is off ~ if it easily slips off without twisting , it is bad and needs replacing . Most folks never give the various vacuum hoses any thought until it rots completely away and falls off ~ this is a serious mistake as your engine doesn't like vacuum leaks of any sort . EGR valves are a mixed bag ~ older models tend to have a vacuum source to them as soon as the engine starts and this causes driveability problems , mostly flat spots off idle (hesitation) . If you don't want to disable the EGR , choose a vacuum source that only provides a vacuum signal off idle . -Nate Quote:
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#2100 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: So. Cali.
Posts: 2,643
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To use a vacuum gauge to adjust the carby ;
First you *must* have the timing set properly to 0° ~ 6° BTDC @ idle of 700 RPM's or less , then insure the spark plugs are gapped to at least .040" (.060" if HEI) and the center electrode's shoulders are sharply squared off , if they're rounded it'll loose power . Connect the vacuum gauge to the port below the carby so it has a constant vacuum signal , start and warm up the engine fully . Set the idle speed to 1,000 RPM and s - l - o - w - l - y turn the idle mixture screw in as you keep an eagle eye on the vacuum gauge ~ in time it will begin to rise , as you get the screw further in the gauge's needle will begin to flicker and if you turn it in further the engine will begin to shake and miss ~ Gently play with it to get a feel for how the needle responds to your fiddling with the mixture screw and then turn it to where the needle gets it's highest , steady reading , then back it out maybe a 1/16th of a turn and let it idle longer while you blow on your seriously burned fingers , I have no idea why the hell GM put the ding-dang mixture screw right there where it's easy to see but hard to access ~ I have a 3' long 1/8" flat bladed screw driver I use for just this job, gotta watch out the back end of the screw driver doesn't get caught in the P.S. belt . To recap : adjust the carby's mixture screw to get the gauge's highest _steady_ reading then back it off a tiny fraction and you're good to go ~ you can then fiddle the idle speed to suit if you want , 600 ~ 1,000 is the desired hot idle speed . Once the mixture is set and the idle speed is adjusted , do not touch the mixture screw again . If it stalls when cold started , the fast idle speed is adjusted by gently bending the vertical rod from the choke plate downwards , when the throttle is held open ~ at the bottom of the rod is a stepped fast idle plate that lifts as you gently bend the rod using two pairs of pliers ONLY AT THE PROVIDED BENDS ~ a little bit will do , don't be a jerk and pretzel the rod like Gas Station idiots do as they're impossible to find once you've ruined them . It's is critical that the stepped fast idle cam thing toches nothing when the choke is fully open ! . I hope this helps .
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-Nate Geezer '49 3100 235 W/ Muncie SM420 SOLD '69 C/10 shortbed sidemount survivor 250 L6 W/ 350TH ![]() |
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