Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[G&R's57GMC]

some more ...

[G&R's57GMC]

and some more ...

[G&R's57GMC]

Opps to meny seats in that last one,

and now some more ...

[G&R's57GMC]

And some more ideas ...

[G&R's57GMC]

and some clever compartments ...

I like the fuse box in the kick panel but would like it in the passenger side or behind the seat on the passenger side. Why, if you had to access it on the road it would be better then hanging out the drivers door in traffic.

As for the battery behind the seat , I saw a pair of sealed 6 volts that fit back there and didn't interfere with seat travel.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for all the pic's, Glen!

I've PRETTY MUCH decided on my interior design but the EXACT color is still undecided. Most likely a light tan or a saddle color. A long shot is tried-and-true black. Yeah, it's probably too hot for Southern California but it's traditional with a red paint job since forever. If I did it I'd use black cloth inserts for the actually seating area.

[G&R's57GMC]

Black cloth inserts is what I did on my black van seats . That was much better then the all vinyl that they were .

Of course you could do red cloth inserts with black trim.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

I like the fuse box in the kick panel but would like it in the passenger side or behind the seat on the passenger side. Why, if you had to access it on the road it would be better then hanging out the drivers door in traffic.

Genius. I would never have thought of that. I am just starting to plan wiring for the harness and that makes a lot of sense.

[Dan in Pasadena]

It does make sense BUT the most (all?) of the wiring harness kits are made with wires too short to mount under the seat or on passenger side without extending their length. That's very doable, but it IS additional work that frankly I'm not sure is justified. How often do you really have to change a fuse in a properly wired vehicle? Rarely. In new vehicles - and frankly, mine is essentially a custom built new vehicle - I can't think of the last time I've ever needed to change a fuse. YMMV.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Took a trip to the Truck Shop today for a new headlight, brake pedal, ignition switch w/clear escutcheon & cigarette lighter. Also, the Billet Specialties 3rd brake light arrived today, it looks like a nice piece

- Sound deadner was being installed at the shop - I'm not sure what brand.

I saw the electrical installation so far:
- Fuse panel is mounted & wires divided into 3 trunks.
- 1st exits toe plate so not visible in engine compartment. These for starter & AC control wiring.
- 2nd driver side wheel well, runs forward to headlight/signal light & across to passenger side under the below-grill valance.
- 3rd set runs straight down inside firewall across floor, exiting old gas tank line hole. Across the floor the wires will be laid abreast each other and taped over w/metallic AC tape so they will be easily accessible should there ever be a need.

Sorry the last 2 photos rotated 90* because I direct loaded.

[ChuckDriver]

Looking good Dan!

Hope you are driving her soon!!

[oldman3]

I agree with JJ, looking good...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks you guys. I'm documenting small things as a permanent record for myself. I'm sure most of it is uninteresting detail but i enjoy following along. Even now i go back pages and like seeing the progress.

[Dan in Pasadena]

My 3rd brake light arrived last night. It's a very nice piece BUT (there's always a "but") they don't provide recesses in the base to accept the set screws. WTF?

Also, the window rubber on TF trucks is fat so I can't bolt the mount to the lip below the window. I have to mount it on the back wall of the cab immediately below the window. I'm ok with how that will look BUT (another one!) I'll have to drill a new hole 90* from the original one in the base for the wire to pass neatly into the Cab wall.

This will leave the original hole exposed so I'll either find a flat rubber plug to cover it or possibly put a set screw in it. See pictures below:

[Dan in Pasadena]

Sound deadner continues going in. Wiring across floor is abreast using AC tape so it will not show through the carpet.

Some of those wires will exit the old gas tank openings and travel along frame rail for stop/signal lights, fuel pump, trailer wiring (well, I MIGHT tow something!) A few will stay in the cab for rear speakers, dome light and 3rd brake light.

Optima battery will be mounted behind passenger seat toward center. I've ordered the battery hold down but not the battery yet. Anyone know a cheap source for an Optima 34/78 red top?

[bowt1ed]

Dan, I know envy is not a favorable trait, but I really like the direction (and speed) you are going with your truck. Looks great. I gotta figure out my time to get my ass moving along too!

Cheers, Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the nice sentiment, Jim.

I envied everyone who owned a Task Force from my 20's until I got one in the 90's. A '57 small window I lost when my 20 year marriage ended. Then it REALLY bugged me that I was never able to work on that one and make it nice until I was able to get this one in '11. So I know exactly how you feel. If it's important to you you'll eventually work it into what you want. Best of Luck! -Dan

[Dan in Pasadena]

I decided the seat sliders SHOULDN'T be dull aluminum even though that's what they were originally. I resprayed them gloss black to match the seat frames which were powder coated gloss black.

I mounted them with new stainless bolts (5/16-18) and washers, so they're good for at least another 60 years!

The seat bottom "vent frames" (I guess that's what you'd call them) were wire wheeled bare and painted gloss black also.

Now I need to find the black rubber they hold to the seat bottom. One of mine is good, one is torn up. SOMEBODY posted they'd found them or something that works on eBay, but I forget what they used as a search term, a little help anyone?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Seat vent frames, Before and After.

I find these things curious. It doesnt seem the solid rubber that these held in place would have done much of anything....except maybe act as a whoopie cushion. Oh well, they were there for 61 years, they'll be there again, cleaned up.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Friday, July 21, 2017

Switching to weekly updates.

- Took stock dash bezel to Mike for the DD HDX gauge panel today.
- Dropped off radiator overflow canister, vent cables, a few small items like ignition switch light, radio delete plate - I'll use til I find a CHEAP, non working factory radio I can cannibalize for the face plate portion.
- Ordered Secret Audio SRMS w/RF wireless remote, thought better of it and cancelled for their SST wired remote unit. Same but for the remote...and saved $100.

- Wiring almost complete except terminations.
- Sound insulation complete on roof & cab rear wall.
- Remaining sheets will be put inside each door.

It REALLY stops the ringing of stock sheet metal - impressed!

MEXT WEEK:
- Wire will be complete w/the wires currently laid on intake manifold, loomed and run between it & valley cover.
- Routing below engine near exhaust would be less visible but would risk too much heat/melting.
- Polished Flaming River column, HDX, 3rd brake light should all be installed and wired.
- Wires to rear will not be terminated until bed is mounted.
- 3rd party will fab 2-1/2" exhaust to rearend then wait for bed to finalize. Not sure if I'm going to:
1. Bumper
2. Dumping before rear end or
3. Side exhaust ahead of tires w/rectangular or oval tips

Opinions solicited for appearance and for performance/sound differences? Mike suggests DynoMax(?) mufflers....ever hear of them? They're a non-chambered muffler - you can drop a tennis ball straight through them. Claims they're dramatically less power reducing than chambered designs.

[joedoh]

I like using a mid pipe and rear muffler, the mid pipe quiets the drone an open muffler can get, but its usually not what people are looking for , the "shaking hammers in a metal drum" at idle and full throttle hair flattening at 20 yards. its more a little burble at idle and some ruckus at full throttle and I dont really mind the small hp loss from the more restrictive exhaust. I had something like the first and every time I went through a drive through I had to shut it off.


just staggeringly beautiful work so far, I am in awe.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I'm hugely flattered, thank you so much for the kind words!

By a "mid pipe" do you mean an H pipe connecting the two banks? My truck will have that or possibly an "X" pipe if there is enough room. The mufflers will be as far back as possible. Since they'll be under the bed there's not too much worry about drone.

I suppose I want the impossible: Relatively quiet but still aggressive!

[joedoh]

no it is a fancy term for a tiny muffler that goes upstream to break that long standing wave that happens with mufflers at the back and unbroken pipe to the collectors.

on a couple trucks I used a diesel presilencer from a dodge diesel, on a couple more I used the presilencers from 350z/370z exhausts that I always find on craigslist for ~20 bucks.

[Nut Case]

Dan

Check out "Porters". We used those on my sons 55 Ford Y block, and I liked it, going to use them on my build.. I think that they may be what your looking for. My son recorded the sound at start up, look for 55 Ford Y block with porters on Youtube . Its been 3-5 years back. I think porters have a great sound not to loud, but very menacing.

If I were you I'd have a hard time sleeping at night as close as you are to "cruising. Things are looking fandamtastic, strong work.

Keep on keepin on.

NC

Dude you're sooooo close

[Advanced Design]

Dan, truck is coming together nicely. Good call on the seat tracks with changing them to black. So many details to attend to in a build. Still enjoying tagging along.