Project Vitamin C-10

[my67chevytruck]

Nice progress Alan!

[cl08]

Alan, the guy my paint and body shop sends there upholstery jobs to costs way more than that (I KNOW THIS GUY IS VERY PROUD OF HIS WORK). But he has no competition around him and he does excellent work. He charged my buddy $2k for the 2 front buckets and back seat of his S-10 blazer, custom tweed two tone job. So your price seems about right if its good work. Just my input. I think no matter what you pay, in the end with houndstooth will be super sweet.

[aggie91]

Alan, I took my frame down to a local shop here, he wanted $400-$450 to rebuild the seat frame springs, new burlap, and a single color vinyl with only simple vertical pleats in it.

Originally Posted by cl08

Alan, the guy my paint and body shop sends there upholstery jobs to costs way more than that (I KNOW THIS GUY IS VERY PROUD OF HIS WORK). But he has no competition around him and he does excellent work. He charged my buddy $2k for the 2 front buckets and back seat of his S-10 blazer, custom tweed two tone job. So your price seems about right if its good work. Just my input. I think no matter what you pay, in the end with houndstooth will be super sweet.

That wouldn't be Mike Brown of Mike's Trim Shop would it? He does top notch work there in Tyler.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

Nice progress Alan!

Thanks Man!!

Originally Posted by cl08

Alan, the guy my paint and body shop sends there upholstery jobs to costs way more than that (I KNOW THIS GUY IS VERY PROUD OF HIS WORK). But he has no competition around him and he does excellent work. He charged my buddy $2k for the 2 front buckets and back seat of his S-10 blazer, custom tweed two tone job. So your price seems about right if its good work. Just my input. I think no matter what you pay, in the end with houndstooth will be super sweet.

Thanks for the input. I haven't taken the time to do any more research on this yet, but I will do some shopping around.

Originally Posted by daverod

I'm liking the 4 days a week thing. I'm with ya Strodder. I like the seat material Allan.

Thanks Dave. I'd much rather work 3 12 hour days and off 4.

Originally Posted by shortbed70

Dang I like the look of that smooth bed. I like the fuel door too.

Thanks, it's starting to take shape. I believe the bed has been more work than the cab.

Originally Posted by 66farmer

Alen
What kind of over spray are you getting in your shop when you spray primer.
I injoy watching your work.
Thanks

Thanks for the comment. When spraying primer I don't get much overspray. Plus I open up the shop and turn the fans on and blow it out the door. I get more overspray spraying top coats.

Originally Posted by aggie91

Alan, I took my frame down to a local shop here, he wanted $400-$450 to rebuild the seat frame springs, new burlap, and a single color vinyl with only simple vertical pleats in it.

Thanks Karl,

After a white knuckle ride taking my bed to work on a trailer mounted on the stand, I finally got there. I had that gut feeling that I shouldn't do it that day, but I powered through it and made it.

Today I got to start blocking on it. I started out with 120 on a long block. I normally try to start with 180, but had some areas that I thought would need another wipe. I guide coated it and worked on the outside of the LT bedside. When blocking I generally leave my body lines til the last.



It's hard to explain how I block something this big. But here it goes. I start on one end of a panel. I pick an area of the same shape. For this example let's take the big part of the bedside where the fuel door is. I start sanding with my long block on an area as long as the block. Once I get the primer half gone in that area I start tappering it into the next section adjcent to where I'm sanding and start blending the two areas together. Once the 2nd area is half done the first area should be done. Then I repeat on down the panel. You can kind of see that description in the pic above and below.



Done blocking with 120. Now I will guide coat and block with 180. Then reprime and block one more time with 180. Hopefully reprime and do my final sanding with 400.



Here is an assortment of blocks and pads I used today. The soft pads work great in the sharp contours.

[Strodder]

I never seen a round one like that. I like it.

[198plus]

Nice work Alan.

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Thanks Man!!



Thanks for the input. I haven't taken the time to do any more research on this yet, but I will do some shopping around.



Thanks Dave. I'd much rather work 3 12 hour days and off 4.



Thanks, it's starting to take shape. I believe the bed has been more work than the cab.



Thanks for the comment. When spraying primer I don't get much overspray. Plus I open up the shop and turn the fans on and blow it out the door. I get more overspray spraying top coats.



Thanks Karl,

After a white knuckle ride taking my bed to work on a trailer mounted on the stand, I finally got there. I had that gut feeling that I shouldn't do it that day, but I powered through it and made it.

Today I got to start blocking on it. I started out with 120 on a long block. I normally try to start with 180, but had some areas that I thought would need another wipe. I guide coated it and worked on the outside of the LT bedside. When blocking I generally leave my body lines til the last.



It's hard to explain how I block something this big. But here it goes. I start on one end of a panel. I pick an area of the same shape. For this example let's take the big part of the bedside where the fuel door is. I start sanding with my long block on an area as long as the block. Once I get the primer half gone in that area I start tappering it into the next section adjcent to where I'm sanding and start blending the two areas together. Once the 2nd area is half done the first area should be done. Then I repeat on down the panel. You can kind of see that description in the pic above and below.



Done blocking with 120. Now I will guide coat and block with 180. Then reprime and block one more time with 180. Hopefully reprime and do my final sanding with 400.



Here is an assortment of blocks and pads I used today. The soft pads work great in the sharp contours.

[sdailey]

Looking good buddy. Keep up the good work. Now you have to worry about the trip back home with it.

That lift comes in handy don't it?

[4dranch]

Nice work Alan. Thanks for the information.

[Woogeroo]

That fabric is crazy looking !

Perfect.

-W

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Vernski

Great looking fabric Alan does it come in other colors like beige and brown?...Vernski

Thanks Vern!! It comes in 4 colors. Here is a link to the colors. They offer white, red, orange and tan all on black.

Originally Posted by Strodder

Happy New Year to you too Allan. The fabric makes you dizzy looking at it so close. Love it.

What are you smokin'? Thanks I think it looks awesome as well.

Originally Posted by Woogeroo

That fabric is crazy looking !

Perfect.

-W

Thanks Woogeroo!!

[aggie91]

Very nice progress. I envy you having access to that lift. I know what you mean about the knees and back. Make working on the lower parts of the bed sides a lot more enjoyable.

Fabric looks great.

[Strodder]

What are you smokin'? Thanks I think it looks awesome as well.

Don't smoke anything, but just had a nice Seven & Seven..

[SFTorange]

Alan,

I've really enjoyed reading through your build. I've learned a lot, and it's provided me with some great motivation. Keep up the good work!

[my67chevytruck]

nice progress Alan!

[Inverter]

Happy new year Alan.Its only the 8th so I can still say that.

Is this the year for you to complete the Vitamin?

[NuBomb]

Hey Alan Great progress.

When you decide where you are going to have the upholstery work done let us (or just me) know how you like it. I'm hoping to have my buckets covered before July. I looked online and there is a place near dixie speedway in Woodstock that has had some good reviews. I plan on going by there one day to get a quote.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

What are you smokin'? Thanks I think it looks awesome as well.

Don't smoke anything, but just had a nice Seven & Seven..

Originally Posted by SFTorange

Alan,

I've really enjoyed reading through your build. I've learned a lot, and it's provided me with some great motivation. Keep up the good work!

Thanks Man!!. I'm trying to stay motivated. During the winter time I'm ready to put it on Ebay. I did do a little today..........

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

nice progress Alan!

Thanks Heath. Progress is almost non existant right now. My mind stays busier than my body thinking of everything that has to be done.

Originally Posted by Inverter

Happy new year Alan.Its only the 8th so I can still say that.

Is this the year for you to complete the Vitamin?

Not sure Troy, I haven't met any deadlines yet, so I don't think I will set any more. BTW Your truck is coming along great!!

Originally Posted by NuBomb

Hey Alan Great progress.

When you decide where you are going to have the upholstery work done let us (or just me) know how you like it. I'm hoping to have my buckets covered before July. I looked online and there is a place near dixie speedway in Woodstock that has had some good reviews. I plan on going by there one day to get a quote.

I'm in discussion right now with another member that is out of state. He does upolstery and he is needing me to do some work for him. We might swap out the labor. Let us know about the shop at Dixie.

Not much progress, but I did install a new passenger regulator in a repop door. It bolted right up. I still need to buy a drivers side.

I can't hardly move in the shop right now. After 10 years of use it is time to rebuild the riding mower. I'm fighting the temptation of restoring it. It's a sickness. I was cleaning the deck and was thinking.....Hey I can sand blast it and powder coat it.................Nah, just clean it up and put it back together. Then I was thinking hay I can paint the body. That might happen. Then today I was thinking I could practice fabbing up a hood scoop. Dang, my mind creates more work than I need.

Trying to decide on the details of the seat. The picture below is something I had in mind. Now think of this seam on black vinyl with orange thread. Also thinking of a welt like old school. I think the orange stitch in black will really pop and accent the hounds tooth. I'll also have the buttons covered in black. The buttons will be in the hounds tooth like the 69 camaro.

[daverod]

You could put air bags on the mower and that would be how you adjust the height you cut the grass.

[ruffrida2005]

Alan check out www.wiringproducts.com You might find something there you cant live without.

If I was to get a painless wiring harness again I wouldn't buy the one that's made direct for our trucks. It's overpriced and you still have to put all the eletrical ends on it. Yes it's easier since the wires are already ran to where they need to go, But to save $200 on a harness and spend maybe 2 hours more on it is worth it.

[daverod]

I glad I have you to follow.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Alan check out www.wiringproducts.com You might find something there you cant live without.

Good stuff.

[66BowTieBoy]

Alan,

O'Reilly has both one & two wire gauge light kits:
part # GA50 (1 wire) by BWD & # 3211 (2 wire) by Auto Meter.

You might check-out the Classic LED stuff at: www.uapac.com

Enjoy watching you work......
Danny

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

GM use AC Delco parts and connectors.

http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pi...rs/gm/sockets/

Thanks for the link. I'll check it out.

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Alan check out www.wiringproducts.com You might find something there you cant live without.

If I was to get a painless wiring harness again I wouldn't buy the one that's made direct for our trucks. It's overpriced and you still have to put all the eletrical ends on it. Yes it's easier since the wires are already ran to where they need to go, But to save $200 on a harness and spend maybe 2 hours more on it is worth it.

Thanks for the link. I'm sure there is something I can use there.

Originally Posted by daverod

I glad I have you to follow.

I will get you lost if you follow me. At least you can learn from my mistakes and make yours better.

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Alan,

O'Reilly has both one & two wire gauge light kits:
part # GA50 (1 wire) by BWD & # 3211 (2 wire) by Auto Meter.

You might check-out the Classic LED stuff at: www.uapac.com

Enjoy watching you work......
Danny

Thanks Danny for the comments and the PN's. I'll look into them. We have an O'Rileys close to work.

We had 5" of snow here. Now it has turned to ice. Atlanta has been shut down for 2 days now. School is out again tomorrow as well.



I pulled out my Highway 22 kit to see what is in it as far as guage connections go. I pulled out the instructions and their diagram is almost identical to mine. I have to make a couple changes since the turn indictors and high beam are in the speedo. I'll have to add some QD's for the seperate pods. My far left gauge has oil/gen/e brake idiot lights. Next is the temp gauge. Then the speedo. Fuel gauge and then clock.

[Strodder]

Kewl!!

[Alan's Classic]

Since I'm not an electrical guru, I have a question. The black ground wire coming out of the #9 QD doesn't tie to anything. It shows ground points at the gauges but not physically tied to them. What do I do here. I'm thinking just ground it to the dash frame. The gauges are grounded thru the mounts from GM. Suggestions......