Project Vitamin C-10

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Since I'm not an electrical guru, I have a question. The black ground wire coming out of the #9 QD doesn't tie to anything. It shows ground points at the gauges but not physically tied to them. What do I do here. I'm thinking just ground it to the dash frame. The gauges are grounded thru the mounts from GM. Suggestions......

With out seeing the connectors etc, looks to me like #9 and #10 connect which then supplies the ground, if you are not using the connector #9 to connect to #10 connection then just supply your own ground where needed

[Strodder]

I need to see the whole diagram. Remember that where ever you put that ground it has to be screwed to a non painted surface.

[aggie91]

The black wire coming out of #9 shows to be grounded at each gauge. Where does the black line go to the right of the gauges in the picture? You cut off that side...

[66BowTieBoy]

Alan,
My guess, (without physically looking at gauge cluster), would be that with the ground ending at the tach, the tach is mounted in the clusted making contact with 'bare' metal as will all of the other gauges when also mounted. Attaching the ground wire to the dash frame will accomplish the same completed ground circuit. IMO you're more of a 'Lectro Guru' than you thought. As long as the negative post on the battery is attached to the vehicle's frame, the body is making a good metal to metal contact to the frame and the dash has a metal contact to the body the circuit is complete. I have seen 18 wheelers run several thousand mile before experiencing computor module malfunctions due to painted ground terminals. Like Strodder said...

[66BowTieBoy]

Hey Alan,

When the key is turned on the alternator warning lamp current flows from the power source at the coil through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors and field coil of the alternator, then to ground causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to terminal 1, equals the battery voltage. So, with 12 volts on both sides the of the lamp there is no path to ground and the light goes out.

Danny

[daverod]

Damn, it sounds good to me. I think he knows he electrial.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Alan,

When the key is turned on the alternator warning lamp current flows from the power source at the coil through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors and field coil of the alternator, then to ground causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to terminal 1, equals the battery voltage. So, with 12 volts on both sides the of the lamp there is no path to ground and the light goes out.

Danny

Well said Danny.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Alan,

When the key is turned on the alternator warning lamp current flows from the power source at the coil through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors and field coil of the alternator, then to ground causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output, voltage from the diode trio, also applied to terminal 1, equals the battery voltage. So, with 12 volts on both sides the of the lamp there is no path to ground and the light goes out.

Danny

Thanks for the info. That helped clear that up. So connect to terminal 1 on alt? The american wire diagram has a brown wire coming from the #1 terminal on the altenator to the ign switch. It also shows an optional alt reg excitor diode. Seen in pic below.

Originally Posted by daverod

Damn, it sounds good to me. I think he knows he electrial.

Been working on drawing my own schematic for my application. This is pod #1 housing the Gen/Oil and ebrake idiot lights and temp gauge. The QD's will be added to the American wire harness so I can disconnect the individual pods. Am I on the right track?

[66BowTieBoy]

A picture says a thousand words:

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

A picture says a thousand words:

Thanks again. That really helps with a mental pic.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

A picture says a thousand words:

Is this the proper solution.

[Alan's Classic]

I couldn't make into work today, so why not stay inside and work on more drawings. It's progress. I just finished the speedo and rt pod schematics. Now just need to tie up the loose ends with an overall schematic with everything hooked to the american wire harness. It's a lot easier than haveing a bunch of wire laying on the floor.

[scotts62]

Inspiring me Alan.. i have to take my last ASE test on wiring would you like to take it for me??

[daverod]

Your going to make me go pull my gages out arn't you. I hope it snows like hell in GA.

[66BowTieBoy]

Another picture....?



In some cases when you try to shut the vehicle off, power from the alternator can feed up to the coil and keep the engine running. To cure this you can install a diode in the ignition wire that activates the #1 terminal. This will stop the power from feeding back up the ignition line. These are buck or two at Radio Shack, just be sure to put the stripe end toward the alternator to stop any flow.

Danny aka: Sparky

[66BowTieBoy]

Alan,
I've got a 'BRAND NEW STILL IN THE BOX' American Auto-Wire waiting for me to get off my deadbutt and install it. Are you go'na shame me into being productive....?

Sure you can TEE off the brown wire....

If the BROWN WIRE feeds to the coil, then I would put the aforementioned diode between the TEE and the GREEN LIGHT. This will keep backflow from feeding the coil. But, if ya put the diode between the alternator and the Green Light, (and the diode is working properly), the GREEN LIGHT might not go out as it should not receive any positive power from that direction...! At least in theory.....

Danny

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by scotts62

Inspiring me Alan.. i have to take my last ASE test on wiring would you like to take it for me??

at me taking an electrical test. Back 20 something years ago I knew a little more about electricity when I was getting my airframe and powerplant license. I've slept a lot since then.

Originally Posted by daverod

Your going to make me go pull my gages out arn't you. I hope it snows like hell in GA.

Yep...........but your making a lot of progress on yours. I'm sitting here dreaming. I'm tired of the ice. The snow was fun. I'm ready for spring.

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Another picture....?



In some cases when you try to shut the vehicle off, power from the alternator can feed up to the coil and keep the engine running. To cure this you can install a diode in the ignition wire that activates the #1 terminal. This will stop the power from feeding back up the ignition line. These are buck or two at Radio Shack, just be sure to put the stripe end toward the alternator to stop any flow.

Danny aka: Sparky

Question about statement in blue above. The brown wire goes straight from #1 on alt to ign switch. The feed to the dizzy comes straight from ign. switch. Can the power back feed go thru the ign switch? (Idon't see how) I posted a pic of the american wire kit below that shows the optional diode. Should I go ahead and utilize it? What kind of diode do I ask for at Radio Shack? --Edit-- Never mind about what I need to ask for at Radio Shack. I see it in your pic.

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Alan,
I've got a 'BRAND NEW STILL IN THE BOX' American Auto-Wire waiting for me to get off my deadbutt and install it. Are you go'na shame me into being productive....?

Sure you can TEE off the brown wire....

If the BROWN WIRE feeds to the coil, then I would put the aforementioned diode between the TEE and the GREEN LIGHT. This will keep backflow from feeding the coil. But, if ya put the diode between the alternator and the Green Light, (and the diode is working properly), the GREEN LIGHT might not go out as it should not receive any positive power from that direction...! At least in theory.....

Danny

That's exactly what I'm trying to do........motivate. Do you have your American wire schematic handy? The top brown wire on the ign switch doesn't feed the coil as far as I can tell. As you can probably tell the placement (if needed) of the diode is confussing to me. I understand it lets power flow in one direction. That's about it. Thanks for your time with this.

[Strodder]

Is this a great forum or what.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Is this a great forum or what.

Amen Brother!!

OK, I think I have the schematic all done that ties my gauges to the American Wire harness with the needed QD's to enable me to remove the insturment pods individualy. It's all good in theory, until I'm hanging upside down under the dash trying to make it work. I'm thinking I can do most of it on the bench. There is no guarantee that this will work yet. There is still the question of the diode, but that can be done later. It might be confusing but makes complete sense to me. I just want a nice and neat functional harness that people say Wow!! (in a good way) The kids markers came in real handy doing all of this.

[198plus]

Can we start all over I'm confused.........

[66BowTieBoy]

Ok Alan,

I got the schematic in my hand, (wine glass in the other), and it would appear that the PINK WIRE powers the ignition coil and the BROWN WIRE goes to the fuse block where ORANGE to Engine Fan, BROWN to AC/HEAT, TAN to accessory connector,as well as TAN to the Radio all branch off.

The BROWN from the Alternator runs DOTED LINE to the fuse block where it meets with the BROWN from the Ignition Switch.

I would place your GREEN LIGHT in series with the BROWN wire from the alternator without any diode, as the PINK wire feeds the coil and is not conected to the BROWN wire anywhere that I can see.... If you put an Ohm meter on the ignition switch and find the PINK & BROWN terminals are still conected with the key in the OFF POSITION, you should put the diode in the DOTTED BROWN WIRE between your GREEN LIGHT & the fuse block.

And if that doesn't work as I claim, I'll cut my Tech Support Fee by 50%, or you can pull my chain...!

My schematic looks a little different from what I can see of yours.
Mine is part # 500560 'FULL VEHICLE WIRING KIT 1960-66 CHEVY/GMC TRUCK'...
Danny

[ruffrida2005]

Alan if your nice maybe Dave will put you a Diode in the mail to you.

Dave I already instaled the diode in the harness that you bought from me. And theres a couple extra in the Purple Pampers box.

Alan yes you need to install the Diode. If you go to turn off the ignition power will still feed through and not let the the alt from sending a charge. It's just like putting a check valve in a air system.

It's actully funny, with my painless harness I hooked it all up and started up the truck and was wondering why it wouldn't turn off. I guess I didn't see that part in the instructions about the diode.

66bowtie where you from in the hill country?

[66BowTieBoy]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

66bowtie where you from in the hill country?

Hey Paul,

We have a little Bat Cave out here in the Sticks, not too far from 'Pull-My-Finger Texas'. Ya go west til ya smell it, then north til ya step in it....

I could draw you a map, but I think would be a violation of the Witness Protection Program...

P.S. I liked your Spinner Hupcap Video and God bless & thank you and your bros for your service.

[ruffrida2005]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Paul,

We have a little Bat Cave out here in the Sticks, not too far from 'Pull-My-Finger Texas'. Ya go west til ya smell it, then north til ya step in it....

I could draw you a map, but I think would be a violation of the Witness Protection Program...

P.S. I liked your Spinner Hupcap Video and God bless & thank you and your bros for your service.

That was a good one.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Alan if your nice maybe Dave will put you a Diode in the mail to you.
Dave I already instaled the diode in the harness that you bought from me. And theres a couple extra in the Purple Pampers box.

Alan yes you need to install the Diode. If you go to turn off the ignition power will still feed through and not let the the alt from sending a charge. It's just like putting a check valve in a air system.

It's actully funny, with my painless harness I hooked it all up and started up the truck and was wondering why it wouldn't turn off. I guess I didn't see that part in the instructions about the diode.

66bowtie where you from in the hill country?

I guess some sweet talking is in store. Hey Dave your one cool dude..........will that do it.

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Paul,

We have a little Bat Cave out here in the Sticks, not too far from 'Pull-My-Finger Texas'. Ya go west til ya smell it, then north til ya step in it.... I could draw you a map, but I think would be a violation of the Witness Protection Program...

P.S. I liked your Spinner Hupcap Video and God bless & thank you and your bros for your service.

That's funny.