Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[jlsanborn]

Just the photos knock me out Vic. I soo appreciate your attention to the DETAILS and not just those that are on your ride. I try very hard to balance "don't sweat the small stuff" and "it could be better" but you have it dialed. You do sweat the small stuff but always, somehow, make it look obvious and then execute like a champion.

I still have a laser engraver at my disposal...

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Just the photos knock me out Vic. I soo appreciate your attention to the DETAILS and not just those that are on your ride. I try very hard to balance "don't sweat the small stuff" and "it could be better" but you have it dialed. You do sweat the small stuff but always, somehow, make it look obvious and then execute like a champion.

I still have a laser engraver at my disposal...

Thanks, John! I may take you up on that. My buddy Jay suggested that it might be smart to squirrel away an ID tag in an unobtrusive spot... just in case. I've come up missing two hotrods in my lifetime (an uninsured race car and a brand new '83 Z28).

The cab is finally on. Took four tries to make it work. Not sure what happened, because when I had it together before, I bagged and labeled each of the mounts on all four corners. I could tell when I dropped it in place this time that it was slightly high centered. The other issue I ran into was that all the cables wouldn't fit in the handy dandy little plate I'd constructed. The fix for both problems was to relocate the window for the cables and enlarge the original opening to clear the transmission. I'll build a raised platform to cover the large hole and use it to mount the computers, etc.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

My buddy Jay suggested that it might be smart to squirrel away an ID tag in an unobtrusive spot... just in case. I've come up missing two hotrods in my lifetime (an uninsured race car and a brand new '83 Z28).

You could always install a GPS location device with a battery backup in a hidden compartment somewhere no one will ever find it so that if it's stolen the police can track it down and arrest the thieves.
I know that seems extreme but if you plan to keep the truck the rest of your life then it's worth the money IMO.

[snipescastle2]

Vic,
Thanks again for your help setting up my differential! I really appreciate it!
I'm gonna have to squeeze in the time to reinstall everything this weekend, I'm hoping my vibration problem is solved. Thanks again!
Ben

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

You could always install a GPS location device with a battery backup in a hidden compartment somewhere no one will ever find it so that if it's stolen the police can track it down and arrest the thieves.
I know that seems extreme but if you plan to keep the truck the rest of your life then it's worth the money IMO.

That's very true, Brian. No matter how much insurance you have, it's never enough to cover all the man hours and head banging it takes to build one. I just wish there was a GPS device you could buy and track with a laptop. Seems like the standalone ones don't have any range and the others require a subscription service for location.

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

Vic,
Thanks again for your help setting up my differential! I really appreciate it!
I'm gonna have to squeeze in the time to reinstall everything this weekend, I'm hoping my vibration problem is solved. Thanks again!
Ben

You're very welcome, Ben. You had all the hard part done already.

It's getting down to the wire for the Truck Nationals. Chip has been working on his truck and Boppa's new ride getting them spiffied up for the show. He'll be here early Saturday with the trailer to load up CRLS. He swore after the last time he was done hauling my project out there, but he backpedaled on the tough love and agreed to do it one more time. I just need to prove that it's actually a real truck and not Photoshop'd.

I stuck just enough parts on the cab to simulate progress. The forward tunnel cover I made ended up being the best place to mount the floor shifter, so I built another low panel behind it for the ECU/TCU boxes. I'll make another platform that sits above the ECU for the relay/fuse box. All of this will eventually be encased in a custom console. The rear will kick up to house the subwoofer and the front will have a pocket for the e-level controls, various switches, cup holders and storage. Right now it looks like the amp, filters and distribution blocks for the speakers will wind up under the passenger seat because the console is filling up fast.

[Xeen]

Vic it sounds like you got it all figured out. That's smart thinking going vertical with the electronic components to take advantage of all available space.
I have a extra thought for you for the fuse box, if you raised the shifter up a bit and moved it closer to the back of the cab it would position it closer to your reach but it would also allow you to stand the fuse box on it's edge on the passenger side built into the console with a magnetic press release compartment door for easy access to the fuses in case you blow one so you don't have to stand on your head to get to them, it would also have the added benefit of freeing up some space over the ECU to hide other electronic components there instead of the fuse box, it would also open up more space in front of the shifter for even more electronic components to be mounted which would still be hidden by the console assuming you plan on extending the sides of the console under the dash all the way to the firewall.

*Edited like 20 times.

[snipescastle2]

Vic,
Check this website out:
http://gpsandtrack.com/
they have a GPS tracker with two years of service for $119! and you can disable the starting system from your laptop! shows real time location etc....
you tube has many videos on this.
Have a good one!
Ben

[sduckworth13]

Keep up the great work Vic! You'll be flying in no time. I'll see you guys Saturday after work.

[Low Elco]

I have something related to show you at the Nats.

[69CST-V]

Vic it was nice meeting you this weekend. Thanks for taking the time to show me your truck. Looking forward to seeing the progress.

[Vic1947]

Thanks, guys! I too had a great time meeting old friends and new at the All Trucks show. Weather was great and the ground wasn't soggy, so it worked out perfectly. Thanks again to Chip for hauling CRLS out there.

Back at the ranch... I believe I'm on the downhill run now.

I've finished the platform for the fuse/relay center and started mocking up the box for the wire looms coming from the engine and trans. Wasn't able to move the shifter as Brian suggested due to space constraints, plus I'll need the area forward of the shifter for the e-level controls. Also did some work on the steering wheel to shorten the spacer and install an actual working horn button. Removed the headrests from the seats and will have the upholstery guy sew in new material in their place. Five months until the World of Wheels show. No slacking allowed.

[Vic1947]

Making progress mounting stuff. Got the feed thru box done and installed with clecos. Started work on the panels that hide the back of the cab. The one on the passenger side will double as the mounting surface for the stereo amp, etc. Failed to label everything years ago when I took the components out of the truck that became the Silver Streaker so now I have two options... take it to someone that knows what they're doing and have them wire it up or do the Google. Early search results lead me to believe the Zapco / MB Quart pieces were nice (back in the day) but are now pretty much obsolete. Most semi-relevant threads are around 10 years old.

[Low Elco]

I've done a bunch of it, happy to take a look or refer you to the people that did the head unit install in Big Black. I can tell you to stay FAR away from Independence Audio. Not another nickel from me.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I've done a bunch of it, happy to take a look or refer you to the people that did the head unit install in Big Black. I can tell you to stay FAR away from Independence Audio. Not another nickel from me.

Thanks, Chip. Brian also offered assistance but I need to get my ducks in a row first. Need to lay out all the components and their connection labels on the schematic for the Zapco (which is about all I have). Then maybe you or Brian can fill in the blanks. As a kid, there was an AM radio with a front speaker in my cars. Then I got a really high end setup with TWO... count 'em, 2 speakers and an 8 track. I haven't progressed very much beyond the player / dual speaker setup over the years. Amps and crossovers along with tweets, mid-range and woofers are alien tech to me.

[swamp rat]

MB Quart was BIG some years back, I checked out a few myself but couldn't see spending the money.

[Low Elco]

No worries. Zapco was gooooood stuff. Whatever you need, let me know.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

MB Quart was BIG some years back, I checked out a few myself but couldn't see spending the money.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

No worries. Zapco was gooooood stuff. Whatever you need, let me know.

That's good to know. These parts tagged along when I bought the original '68 and all I remember was how thrilled the young man was about the audio system. I went with a bench seat and had no place for the components so they've been stored ever since. Two of the rear cab panels are done and I'm to the point where I can start mocking up a console... which should be fun given my lack of carpentry skills. I figure it's probably best to house the sub in a wooden box rather than sheet metal. You always see them using particle board or maybe plywood on the Velocity channel.

I did a little bit of wiring on the stereo using the schematic I have. Left room to redo anything that doesn't work. Kathy suggested that I should hook the power up and just test it. Then I'll know for sure if it's right... or KABOOM!

[snipescastle2]

Vic,
I bought my Kenwood head unit and component speakers at a stereo place on hwy 40, I'll look and see if I have thier info and get back to you with that, I got everything at a competitive price, the tweeters in the component set can be be both surface or flush mount, they also come with bass blockers that are part of the wiring. My component front speakers are KENWOOD KFC-P709PS, about $65.00
The place I got my Kenwood stuff from was
"http://www.customaudiocreation.com"

I installed mine in the dash flush mounted, I used a hydraulic knock out tool that the electrician's use to run conduit into breaker boxes, very clean holes, no burrs at all.
The hole sizes range from 3/4" to 4" plus. Let me know if you would like to use one of these sets, I can borrow them from work.
Have a good one!
Be

[knomadd]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I figure it's probably best to house the sub in a wooden box rather than sheet metal. You always see them using particle board or maybe plywood on the Velocity channel.

If you're going to attempt to build a box for the sub yourself, be sure to use MDF, which I think is what you see on TV. Most (probably 99%) of the pros use MDF for audio boxes. You wouldn't want your sub rattling the heck out of a metal box (and it would). Keep at it, it's looking good!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by knomadd

If you're going to attempt to build a box for the sub yourself, be sure to use MDF, which I think is what you see on TV. Most (probably 99%) of the pros use MDF for audio boxes. You wouldn't want your sub rattling the heck out of a metal box (and it would). Keep at it, it's looking good!

Thanks for the tip, Duane! I went to Menard's today and bought some 3/4" MDF and will use it for the sub box. I'll probably graft some sheetmetal onto it to finish out the rest of the console forward of the enclosure. The instructions for the JL Audio sub said a sealed box needs slightly over .75 ft3 internal volume. I don't want a rectangular box where it sits, so I drew up what I wanted and sized the panels to give me the same inside volume as their suggested dimensions. I hope the shape of the box isn't as important as the volume. I'm half deaf anyway, so I'm not sure why I'm even worrying about it.

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Thanks for the tip, Duane! I went to Menard's today and bought some 3/4" MDF and will use it for the sub box. I'll probably graft some sheetmetal onto it to finish out the rest of the console forward of the enclosure. The instructions for the JL Audio sub said a sealed box needs slightly over .75 ft3 internal volume. I don't want a rectangular box where it sits, so I drew up what I wanted and sized the panels to give me the same inside volume as their suggested dimensions. I hope the shape of the box isn't as important as the volume. I'm half deaf anyway, so I'm not sure why I'm even worrying about it.

Nice shape to that... I think it will work ok... typically the speaker sold sit in the middle of the box for maximum effect...

[builtbyKane]

Are you running push button start and what company did you go with?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Elliot949

Nice shape to that... I think it will work ok... typically the speaker sold sit in the middle of the box for maximum effect...

I hope so, Dan, newbie is way above my level of expertise where stereo stuff is concerned.

Originally Posted by builtbyKane

Are you running push button start and what company did you go with?

Yes I am. I'm using the Advanced Keys setup. I bought the AK-105B package which includes the AK-PSB06 push button start and the AK-105 keyless entry. However, I decided against installing the keyless entry pieces. The one piece windows I got from Brothers relocate the rear window channels and I was worried about packaging the remote lock solenoids. Sticking with stock door handles and locks.

[Xeen]

That subwoofer box will look great in there, the only thing you need to do now is buy enough subwoofer enclosure acoustic polyfill for your application, once installed the shape of the box won't matter nearly as much and the bass will be richer and more impactful.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

That subwoofer box will look great in there, the only thing you need to do now is buy enough subwoofer enclosure acoustic polyfill for your application, once installed the shape of the box won't matter nearly as much and the bass will be richer and more impactful.

Thanks for the info, Brian! I never heard of the stuff, but da Google says you're spot on. Will acquire some and put it to good use.