Project Vitamin C-10

[daverod]

Parts in the mail.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by daverod

Parts in the mail.

Thanks Dave, you da man!!
Posted via Mobile Device

[66BowTieBoy]

Hey Alan,
Anything above 16 volts & 1 amp should be more than enough the stop any flow. Just make sure the end with the strips are towards the alternator.
Danny

[allaboutchevelles]

Hey Alan, Changing the subject a little but I was looking at your build thread and was checking out your work on the C10 bed. Im still learning all this metal work and body work as I do this for a hobby. I have been watching my uncle for years that does bodywork for a living. He attended a seminar and they were talking about not putting body filler on top of bare metal, that you should prime the metal with an etching primmer sealer then do your mud work on top of that. They said the body filler hardens and causes the metal to sweat and create rust under the filler. I see guys building high end cars on tv and magizines putting filler all over bare metal. Whats your thoughts on this. I have been using the dynalight filler from carquest. any thoughts on this subject will be appreciated.

my build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=439559

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Alan,
Anything above 16 volts & 1 amp should be more than enough the stop any flow. Just make sure the end with the strips are towards the alternator.
Danny

Thanks Danny. Just got to round up some wire and I can start making the gauge harness.

Originally Posted by allaboutchevelles

Hey Alan, Changing the subject a little but I was looking at your build thread and was checking out your work on the C10 bed. Im still learning all this metal work and body work as I do this for a hobby. I have been watching my uncle for years that does bodywork for a living. He attended a seminar and they were talking about not putting body filler on top of bare metal, that you should prime the metal with an etching primmer sealer then do your mud work on top of that. They said the body filler hardens and causes the metal to sweat and create rust under the filler. I see guys building high end cars on tv and magizines putting filler all over bare metal. Whats your thoughts on this. I have been using the dynalight filler from carquest. any thoughts on this subject will be appreciated.

I will let the manufacturer of the product tell you in the quote below.

Q. Can Evercoat fillers be applied over bare metal? Can they be applied over paint?
A. Our fillers are designed to work over bare, properly prepared substrates such as: steel, aluminum, galvanized, stainless steel, fiberglass, and SMC. Some people prefer applying an epoxy primer over bare substrates to enhance corrosion protection. Our products don’t need to be applied over an epoxy for corrosion protection as long as the bare surface area is clean and no surface rust or contamination is present. However, some auto manufacturers do require body technicians to coat the bare metal surface with an epoxy before applying fillers. If you are performing warranty work, you should consult the manufacturer of the automobile for the recommended procedure. Fillers and putties will normally work OK over properly sanded (80-180 grit) cured OEM paint. However, with so many different types of aftermarket paint available (lacquer, enamel, urethane, water-based). We recommend that all paint be removed where filler is to be applied.

I use Rage Extreme. Here is a link to more info on this product. I've been in the body shop for 15 years and have never experienced that problem with any products I've used. I was at one shop for 8.5 years and the current job for 7 years. Most of my repairs is over bare metal. I have never had a failure in the adhesion properties of any filler. I've used several types, but have been using rage Extreme for 8-10 years. There are too many factors that can affect a proper repair. i.e. location like close to the coast, humidity and of coarse the technicians practices to name a few. I just read the manufacturers recommendation and use my own experiences to do the best repair possible.

[ruffrida2005]

Alan that diode was the one that was suggested by painless to use with their harness. It works great.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Alan that diode was the one that was suggested by painless to use with their harness. It works great.

10-4 Thanks Paul!!

I did'nt want to spend money money on a bunch of different colored wire just to use some short pieces. I had some old harnesses laying around with a bunch of different colored wires. If I had my harness in the truck I would have some scraps left over that would work. I found this web site http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aw...uge-d_731.html that shows what wire gauge actual diameters are. Most in these harnesses are 18 gauge. I'd feel better using 16 gauge on most of it. The american wire gauges are 16. I say that because they measured out to be .050". Am I correct by saying that?

I also found this chart I use to use many years ago studying for my A&P. Don't ask me to explain it.

I also remebered tonight I have to get some dash lights for the gauges.

[Stacked78]

alan, i'm a bodyman as well and i considered myself a medicore fabricator till i saw your work, ALL HAIL ALAN! the dash swap is nothing short of beautiful, I love it! keep up the good work I cant wait to see this thing finished

[66BowTieBoy]

Hey Alan,
I really enjoy following your build, cause you always have some great links. The Ohm's Chart and Engineering Tool Box was the best.
Thanks.
Danny

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Stacked78

alan, i'm a bodyman as well and i considered myself a medicore fabricator till i saw your work, ALL HAIL ALAN! the dash swap is nothing short of beautiful, I love it! keep up the good work I cant wait to see this thing finished

Thanks for the kudos! I've still got a lot to learn. Yeah, I can't wait for it to be finished as well.

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Alan,
I really enjoy following your build, cause you always have some great links. The Ohm's Chart and Engineering Tool Box was the best.
Thanks.
Danny

Thanks Danny, speaking of which I was looking for some LED dash lights and ran across this web site http://www.superbrightleds.com/ if they don't have it it probably isn't made yet. I just did a quick look see and they have a bunch to offer. I posted it here so I won't forget the website.

[Alan's Classic]

This wiring thing, if I hadn't already said, is a trial and error situation. I couldn't wait to get out to the shop and try to wire up something. The more I studied it the more I realized I need to do the gauge wiring in the truck. If I was more experienced at it I could do it on the bench, maybe. In a nut shell I did one wire, and it was the one that goes to the clock from batt power. Installing the fuse block and running the gauge harness from American Wire I should have the excess I need to complete the home made gauge harness. Sounds good in theory. Here are some pics of my my first wire. Took a little figuring out since the instructions didn't match the crimper.

BTW I emailed Super Brite LED's to ask them if they had a LED that would go into a 5/8" hole for the gauge lights. I looked around the site some more and couldn't locate exactly what I needed. There were some twist locks, but no snap ins. So we'll see.

[65Custom]

Sweet into the wiring already!!

One trick I have seen wiring guys use when making harnesses is to use a piece of plywood and then use 6 penny finishing nails to create routes for wires and then lay out the wire in between the nails then break out wires off of the main trunk in bundles and then they can bundle it and tape it for a nice neat look.

Don't know if you are planning on completely making you harness or not but thought I would throw this out there

I have friend who is great with wiring if you need help let me know he has been working on and restoring cars all his life, he has built high performance boats from the hull up for years he also has had his own business rigging boats has a great resume and he is currently working at a restoration shop near Gainesville, Ga Im sure if you needed help with something he can get you going in the right direction.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 65Custom

Sweet into the wiring already!!

One trick I have seen wiring guys use when making harnesses is to use a piece of plywood and then use 6 penny finishing nails to create routes for wires and then lay out the wire in between the nails then break out wires off of the main trunk in bundles and then they can bundle it and tape it for a nice neat look.

Don't know if you are planning on completely making you harness or not but thought I would throw this out there

I have friend who is great with wiring if you need help let me know he has been working on and restoring cars all his life, he has built high performance boats from the hull up for years he also has had his own business rigging boats has a great resume and he is currently working at a restoration shop near Gainesville, Ga Im sure if you needed help with something he can get you going in the right direction.

Thanks for the tip. I've already got a complete harness, just trying to tie the pods on the dash into it. If I run into trouble I might contact you about your buddy.

65Custom just had to remind me about Dakota Digital. Decisions.......The cost is too much right now.



I finally got something finished. It seems like nothing gets completed. Oh yeah I got 2 things done. The kitchen overhaul is done after 2 years we got the granite tops installed and I finished trimming them out Saturday. I also overhauled the lawn mower after 10 years. It used to be green. The blue is actually a 2011 Ford color. I worked on a 2011 Mustang that color and really liked it.

I'm getting a 10X30 lean too on the back of my shop with in the next week or two depending on weather. That should free up some floor space.

[66BowTieBoy]

Hey Alan,
The gauges look real good and so does the new kitchen counter. But 140 MPH...? I don't think my old heart could handle that in a C10. The Ford Blue really caught my eye and I too envisioned a white over blue sitting in my driveway...
F.Y.I. - You will be held responsible if I show-up at a ralley and there's a fleet of them to meet me...

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Vernski

X2 on that color blue, It would go good with a white on a two tone truck. Alan do you have the paint # handy? The digital gauges would look real nice, is that in the works for your truck maybe? Thanx...Vernski

Thanks Vern the paint code is CI

Originally Posted by Strodder

I installed some Dakota Digital gauges in a 55 Chevy once, and the customer didn't like them. It was hard to see when it's sunny. I would think twice about getting them. I would stick with digital analogue looking gauges.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I believe that was a common complaint with the red illuminated digital gauges. I installed a Dakota Digital red display unit in a '66 GMC for a customer. The daytime visibility was not good. A couple years later I removed the digital and changed it to Autometer gauges for the guy. Dakota Digital discourages customers from ordering the red display. The blue or teal display colors provide better daytime visibility.

Thanks for the input guys. That is diffenately something to consider. Maybe since the display is hard to see in bright light maybe I won't know I'm going 140.

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Hey Alan,
The gauges look real good and so does the new kitchen counter. But 140 MPH...? I don't think my old heart could handle that in a C10. The Ford Blue really caught my eye and I too envisioned a white over blue sitting in my driveway...
F.Y.I. - You will be held responsible if I show-up at a ralley and there's a fleet of them to meet me...

Thanks Danny, 140 would be a white knuckle ride. Be the first to show up at the ralley then everyone else will be followers. Or document it here on the forum then you have proof of origination.

[66BowTieBoy]

Alan,

I found this website today and they've got some LED bulbs for the gauge cluster: http://whitegauges.net
But, after checking into it, they seemed a little pricey and not really what I was looking for.
So I went back to http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...Fba9s_1led.htm and found what I've been looking for.
If ya know something I don't, 'Spill the Beans', cause I've got to get something brighter in the dash for my broken-down eyes....
Danny

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 66BowTieBoy

Alan,

I found this website today and they've got some LED bulbs for the gauge cluster: http://whitegauges.net
But, after checking into it, they seemed a little pricey and not really what I was looking for.
So I went back to http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...Fba9s_1led.htm and found what I've been looking for.
If ya know something I don't, 'Spill the Beans', cause I've got to get something brighter in the dash for my broken-down eyes....
Danny

Thanks for finding those bulbs. I emailed the company after searching their website and the person said they didn't carry what I was looking for. Granted I couldn't remember the bulb number, I just asked for what went in a 59 Impala. They didn't have a listing for them. Seems that bulb would be common back in the day. I also agree the other site was pretty priey at $5/bulb.

[daverod]

I'm liking the lean to idea. Mise well just put a lean to on all three sides I'm sure you'll but needing it.

[65Custom]

Well guys when I was talking about the Dakota Gauges they have a new style VHX not the digital numbers type, I agree those would be hard to read in anything but night driving, this new style they developed looks really nice and more modern and are digital with analog faces
They remind me of the newer dashes in the newer cars but with the flair of old dashes I also asked them if they were doing one for our truck and they wrote back saying that it would be out mid year

go check them out but don't look at the prices

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod&prd737.htm

[Strodder]

I like the gauges, but not for $900 with the bezle
Posted via Mobile Device

[VA72C10]

Man, I would argue for a long time if I ordered something at a price they have listed...threaten BBB, etc...I HATE when businesses pull that sort of stuff. If they make a mistake on pricing they should honor it. Unless it's a typo that they quickly fix or a misprint of a flyer that they immediately print a disclaimer about....But something that's been out there for a year is their price and they need to own it.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Man, I would argue for a long time if I ordered something at a price they have listed...threaten BBB, etc...I HATE when businesses pull that sort of stuff. If they make a mistake on pricing they should honor it. Unless it's a typo that they quickly fix or a misprint of a flyer that they immediately print a disclaimer about....But something that's been out there for a year is their price and they need to own it.

Yeah I agree, the more I think about it the more I want to call them back. I've been so busy at work I didn't want to spend 30 minutes on the phone. I just rechecked the website and it's still at $389. I know they might have to wait for the web guy to fix it.......but still. I don't know how to save a copy of their check out page. This is the text version.

Return To Main Categories Help

You may click on an item description to return to the page the item came from.
PartNo Description Price Qty Total
69646 In frame header 1987-95 YJ Wrangler with chevy V8 engine (standard trans only). 389.95 389.95
SubTotal 389.95
US Mail 24.95
Total 414.90
Enter 0 to delete an item.

[chevy_man5]

Alan,

Hold the Alt button down and hit print screen. It won't look like it does anything. Open up a Microsoft Word blank document, (or another document program) and click on edit on the top of the screen. Click on paste. That should put an image of the web page on the document. Then just save it.

Edit: I just went to their website and have the page saved. If you want to PM me your e-mail address, I can send it to you. I saved it showing the date and time in the image also.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by chevy_man5

Alan,

Hold the Alt button down and hit print screen. It won't look like it does anything. Open up a Microsoft Word blank document, (or another document program) and click on edit on the top of the screen. Click on paste. That should put an image of the web page on the document. Then just save it.

Edit: I just went to their website and have the page saved. If you want to PM me your e-mail address, I can send it to you. I saved it showing the date and time in the image also.

Thanks Jason, it worked. Is there a way to include that capture in an email in the form of a pic?

Shannon came thru for me in a search for another set of headers. He found them at Autopartsdealer.com for $432.57 with free shipping. I should be ordering them tonight. Thanks again Shannon.

Been working on my 95 GMC this past weekend. The link is in my signature.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Thanks Jason, it worked. Is there a way to include that capture in an email in the form of a pic?

Same way Alan. Instead of pasting it into a word document, open up a blank page in Paint, then paste it into that, save as a .jpg file. Then you can insert it or attach it to an e-mail.