Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Alright so two hours later one side was out. This side I figure took a bit longer as there was some figuring out to do.

so you jack up the truck and set it on a jack stand, I only did one corner for extra safety and stability

you remove the front shock lower bolt and wiggle it out of the way

(if you have a stabilizer bar you need to remove that as well, I didn't)

Remember, Cheater Bars are your friend!

[Gregski]

Please note the two safety precautions I took.

1. I used a chain to wrap and secure the coil spring to the lower control arm so it don't go flying across the garage.

2. I used a hold down strap to wrap around a bunch of times over the top of the jack and the round rear bar of the lower control arm, so as I lowered it the jack would not slide out.

[Gregski]

then you undo the two horse shoe U bolts held on with 2 nuts on each side, (you may have to dig through some dirt and grime to find them, I did not get too caught up in clean up during this operation as I will paint these parts later, later on) this separates the lower control arm from below the cross member/fame rail

that is the key you undo the back of the setup, not the front like on every TV show we have seen where they go to replace the spindles

[Gregski]

and then the coil spring was out, naturally we have to compare the old and the new, and it appears as the old one is roughly 14" and the new one about 12" (the angle in that camera shot makes the old spring look like its 15" but it's not)

so if we allow for some sag, divide by the circumference of the earth, lets see, carry the one, ah yes we should get roughly a 2" drop, well we shall see

[Gregski]

and four hours into it, one side in the front was done

the installation is the reversal of removal, LOL

[Gregski]

with the wheel on and one side done, I took a preliminary measurement, and sure enuff we got about a 2" drop, the other side of course will have to go down, and I am sure the coils will settle a bit

[y5mgisi]

Good progress!

[Chaplain]

Nice job. I'm right behind you. I've been cleaning and painting in preparation for installing new suspension parts.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Good progress!

Thank you.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Nice job. I'm right behind you. I've been cleaning and painting in preparation for installing new suspension parts.

Coolness, have you picked a parts vendor yet?

[Gregski]

Quick Update: So took an hour off for lunch with the family, now back to do the other side, it's 1:00 in the afternoon already.

[rusty76]

Well you're running behind in EST. lol. Good job. Keep on keeping on

[Gregski]

alright guys so the other side took less than an hour to remove, so less than half the time, keep in mind I had to stop to take pictures and update this forum... ok and chug a beer - don't judge! ha ha

[Gregski]

Top Tip: figure I better mention, I recommend removing the U bolts completely from the brackets holding the rear of the lower control arm up to the cross member before trying to lower the jack, as they love to bind, so once the nuts and washer are removed, shoot some BP Blaster up in them and fandangle them out with some gentle persuasion, then move on to lowering the jack - SLOWLY -

[Gregski]

and here is our reward, two completely removed rusty stock tall coil springs... and their brand new cousin aka Shorty

[Chaplain]

McGaughy's front and rear. Rear is already done...complete with a 1 ton sway bar.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

McGaughy's ...

hey me too, LOL

[Gregski]

alright time for the 3 oclock update

first wanted to point out that the there is a divit in the lower control arm bowl where the tail of the spring should end up in

its kind of hard to tell with the dirty part, so I try to point to it, you will know what I am talking about when you go to do the job yourselves

[Gregski]

the other thing I want to point out that the way the lower control arm gets centered on the cross member is by these nipples inside the brackets that hold the U bolts and the holes in the round bar that attaches to it - very important that they align

[Gregski]

and so we get the other side assembled

[Gregski]

at first everything appears alright as we remove the jack, mind you this side gave me a little trouble getting aligned

[Gregski]

however, upon further inspection, we notice that the top of the spring is not on center, there is a round sheet metal ring that needs to go inside our new spring and the spring is binding and needs to go in 1/4 of an inch to the inside of the vehicle

no problem, lets gently tap it with our baby sledge

BAM!!! instead of going inside it pops out to the outside, darn it, time for a do over

just being honest wich you all, nothing to hide, I'm learning as I go

[Gregski]

and at 4 PM we were done with the front, my son helped me re do the driver side and we believe now it sits properly, since we had to do one side over, and because of my recent back injury I feel there is no sense in marching on today and doing the rear, we will live to fight another day

new front measurements are

Driver Front 27 3/4" center of wheel well (tire pressure 26.5 PSI ahem low)

Passenger Front 27 5/8" center of wheel well (tire pressure 27.0 PSI also low)

I think it was worth the effort, your thoughts?

here are some before and after shots of the stance

[Willowrun]

Before you go and scrap those old front coil springs please let me know if you're interested in parting with them in exchange for a contribution to your truck fund.
Oh, and it's about time you lowered it!

[Gregski]

a what the heck lets see a close up, stock and with the front lowered 3 inches - the gap between the top of the front tire and the wheel well is no longer

The Greg Likes!!!