64' K10 Project Long Bed

[aotte1]

Kimble,

In the latter category, replacing gears, and likely bearings too. Have not cleaned all the bearings, yet to decide? Both Spindles, as bearing were run to loose and they are worn. I call them spindles, not sure if correct name. Photo of them in post 190.
Did you set yours up with new parts, or get to use original parts?

Have you R/R ed your rear springs yet? Plan to get back to you with questions on parts used to rebuild rear shackles e.g. Bushings and pins. These parts described in your build, Ron may have provided some comments.

Need to see if LMC parts are compatible, as Eddie is sending me some LMC parts.

Thanks,
Les

[61K10]

Les--I used used spindles and they aren't perfect (not worn like yours though) bearing surface was ok. there is new ones out there after-market but $$$. I couldn't find any new hubs either, so used ones off e-bay.

not gonna mess with my rear stuff for now, should of did it when the frame was bare. I was trying to save some coin, always bites me in the end lol!

Eddie said he had the LMC parts installed for awhile?

[aotte1]

Rear Brake and Axle

Photos of the '65 rear 12 bolt axle and brake parts.

In the last photo the axle vent hose is long and attaches to the frame on the right side. Also you can see the composition/style of hose. The spring clamp is a black color. You can see the long wheel cylinder bleeders in first photo too.

[aotte1]

Photos of rear GM wheel cylinder, and some older looking parts, like the bleeders.

[aotte1]

Rear Axle brake lines and connectors. The length of line armore used can be seen, along with the fitting. These lines look to be original. However, they are bent some from their original shape.

[aotte1]

A few more rear axle brake lines with clips, and emergency brake cable.

[aotte1]

Rear brake emergency brake cables. The brake drums, not sure if original??? or not. They look to maybe have been made by Century. There looks to be a November 1965 date code on them. Also they have two part numbers cast in them. The "WF" may be the foundry??

[aotte1]

A few more rear brake drum photos.

[aotte1]

Upgrading 12 Bolt Rear Brakes to Heavy Duty JB5 Option

This is a pretty easy change that can always be put back to original, as it is bolt on. The change out is the backing plates on the 12 bolt rear, to newer ones on trucks that have the JB5 brake option/heavy duty brakes. This gives you a wider brake shoe from 2" to 2 3/4". To complete the upgrade you need the new shoes and drums. The backing plates can be found on 12 bolts, and likely are the same on 10 bolts up to '87 trucks, and likely Subs and Blazers up to '91. Another member posted that they are very common on Subs. An easy identifier is if the front rotors are the thicker ones, then it likely has these backing plates. Using 1979 brake parts for both the front and rear. The brake shoes and drums are the same part number from '78 to '87 for trucks.

The first photo is the original '65 backing plate, the others are the newer ones.

[aotte1]

Another photo with shoes.

[aotte1]

Some background information on the JB5 brake option or heavy duty brakes. I selected 1979 for both front and rear brakes to make them match, only need to remember one year. The front Dana 44 is a '79, so matched the rears to it. As mentioned before doing brakes system as complete JB5 option. So directly from the GM '79 brake chart for a K10 JB5 are the rear brake specifications:

Drum - 359492; size is 283.2mm x 69.8mm
Wheel cylinder - 18004890 (diameter is 23.8mm)
Master Cylinder w/Boost - 18004252 (Delco Moraine, 28.57 mm dia); optional Bendix M/C = "KP"; booster = tandem vacuum 18003681
Combination Valve - 18002887: metering = 517 kPa, split point 1379 kPa, slope = .41
Backing plate:
Flange plate & brake asm LH = 14009889
Flange plate & brake asm RH = 14009890

The 69.8 mm is 2.75 inches. And 283.2 is about 11.15 inches

The brake chart information is provided by Keith Seymore, a member here.

[aotte1]

Rockwell T221 Transfer Case

Started cleaning the transfer case today as the weather warmed up some. Had some grease on it, however, seems to be in really good condition, did not see any rust. Need to do a little more checking, however, everything feels really tight. Next will check what the fluid, to see what it looks like.

A few extra photos to show the red/burgundy color of the T221.

At some point it got some chevy orange on top of the original Rockwell paint.

[aotte1]

A few more photos

[Captainfab]

Looking good Les

[RANDY COX]

That's one good thing about Chevy a lot of yrs are a simple bolt on...It's going to be a beast when you get it done...Keep on Truckin

[61K10]

Hay Les--Don't you just love cleaning parts!! looking good---

kimble

[j.kirn]

YEP the ole leaky rockwell

[aotte1]

John,
Thanks for the complement, things are going a little slower with the cold winter weather.

Les



Randy,
You are right about working on chevrolet trucks , as they keep thing simple and consistent.

Les


Kimble,
You are right about cleaning the parts, no fun, but you learn to take the time needed to get them clean.

Another question, did you change out the bushing in your front springs? If so, how hard to remove and insert new ones? Redoing mine now.

Les

J,
Rockwell is new to me, so will learn to deal with its characteristics.
Les

[j.kirn]

Make sure you clean the vent on the Rockwell also your rear axle tube should have 1 like the 1 on the rockwell

[aotte1]

J,

Thanks for suggestion, will do.

The 12 bolt is getting totally rebuilt, have it all apart, just had it steamed cleaned. It has a vent hose that connects to right side of the frame.

Les

[aotte1]

Springs Front and Rear including Shackles, Pins, and Bushing

Working on the front springs first, got them cleaned up and painted. After checking the bushings and bolts for the front spring, front eye. Both bushings will be replaced, they are worn on one side/end. Bolts do not seem to be worn much, measured them after cleaning. Will post the bolt dia. I measured them at the bearing/wear surfaces. The last photo shows these bolts.

The front spring, rear eye, shackle bushing on one side is worn in a small area and it will be replaced. The four steel bushing at the rear of front springs are threaded on the inside and much thicker ( two in spring eyes and two in frame). The other side has the pin stuck in the bushing. Working on getting the pin loose. The third photo shows this bushing with the pin still in it, removed from the spring eye ( you would only remove if replacing the bushing). The second photo shows the front spring rear eye/frame shackle, pins, nut, washer, seal.

I cleaned the shackles, pins and bolts, other parts to get the 50 year old dried grease out. Used a heated sonic cleaning machine to get grease out of the passages inside of pins and bolts used to lubricate the bushings. Following about an hour or two in heated sonic cleaner used compressed air to blow remaining grease out of passages. Forth photo shows this.

Hope this is not too confusing?????

Les

[aotte1]

More on getting the one front spring rear pin out of bushing. Looks like the rear shackles did not get greased enough. The bushing is removed from the spring eye.
Photo shows it being soaked to try and get it loose. Note:The rear spring shackle holding it is being replaced. Really like "Kroil" for getting parts free. This part has been soaked for weeks now off and on, now that it is out and verticle can keep it saturated. Tomorrow plan to put air pressure on the grease fitting hole on the end of pin, to see if it can force Kroil in more.
Les

[aotte1]

Today received the front and rear bushing for the front springs from, Dan's Classic Auto Parts, Portland OR, 503-234 6674; www.dansclassic.com. I got the reference from a post in 61K10's build, by Ron. Dave is the person who helped me during the week, very helpful, and Ron is their Saturday morning.

Below are photos of the bushings and pins. The first two photos are the front bushings, with the very nice groves on the inside to distribute grease. One bushing will do a spring.

The next two show the front spring rear and frame bushing, they use the same bushing. These bushing fit the original pins for '64. I was not sure when I order them so got two extra pins. The pins look the same as the originals.

They also carry the bushing end seal, which will likely get once checking how the original ones fit.

Note: Per Dan's catalog the '64 to '66 front spring and frame parts are the same, they list the '60 to '63 as different. Do not no what the differences are? And per Dave above you really need to keep them greased well all the time!!

Les

[61K10]

les whats the length of the bronze bushings? maybe the length in the difference between the 60-63 and 64-66. mine were to short by about 1/2". I think they were 2 1/2 " long.

[aotte1]

Kimble,

Just measured the new front ( bronze) and rear ( steel) bushing ( for the front springs and frame shackle) and they are both :
Length 2.5"; and
Outside diameter 0.88" plus or minus .002"

Les