1987 GMC V1500 Sierra Classic LS swap/build

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Great job on your build so far. I'm about to start a similar project on my '89 K5 and even have a complete donor ('00 Yukon) like you do lol. I want to see how you wind up getting the newer sending unit mounted in the older tank since I'm going to have to do the same thing with mine to carry over all of the evap stuff for the eventual smog ref inspection I'll have to do... Keep up the good work

Thanks for the support!! Good to know I will be helping a fellow swapper!

The plan is to remove the plastic bucket on the 01 pump assy and cut/modify the rods to be shorter, probably around 2". Then reassemble it, cut hole in the tank, and put it all together!! I know it sounds simple... Just got to get to doing it!

Then I have to make some "bastard" lines from my stock 87 fuel lines and the stock 01 lines and hook it all up.

Mounting the evap shoulding be too difficult, just have to find a place for it and fab up some mounting brackets.

Good luck man, start a build thread! I'd read it!

[NorCalAnthony]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Thanks for the support!! Good to know I will be helping a fellow swapper!

The plan is to remove the plastic bucket on the 01 pump assy and cut/modify the rods to be shorter, probably around 2". Then reassemble it, cut hole in the tank, and put it all together!! I know it sounds simple... Just got to get to doing it!

Then I have to make some "bastard" lines from my stock 87 fuel lines and the stock 01 lines and hook it all up.

Mounting the evap shoulding be too difficult, just have to find a place for it and fab up some mounting brackets.

Good luck man, start a build thread! I'd read it!

I probably will once I actually get going on the project especially since there aren't too many smog legal swap threads out there. Right now I'm working on getting some minor things done on the Blazer while I gather the last few things I need to start the swap.

Modifying the fuel pump assembly doesn't look too hard and I've seen a couple of guys do the same thing when swapping an LSx into their jeeps over on Pirate4x4. I'll see if I can find a link to the one I had been referencing when I get home from work in case it helps give you some ideas. The only thing I'm not too sure about yet is the locking ring. I haven't been able to take both of my tanks apart yet to see if they're compatible or if I'm going to have to remove the locking ring from the newer tank and have it welded to the older tank...

I'll be making some Frankenstein fuel lines myself to go from the sending unit to the hard lines. I'm going to try and use newer lines since they already have the right connections on the sending unit side and then pick up some AN adapters for the other end to go from that newer fuel line to the stock TBI hard lines. At least that's the plan for now unless you come up with a better way before I start lol. Just be sure not to use any of your stock rubber lines since they have a much lower pressure rating than the newer LS fuel lines (TBI ~13 psi - LS ~58 psi).

[Mtrhd329]

you should look into the nylon lines. I bought a roll of nylon line on amazon for about $20 and cut some connectors off of random cars in the junkyard and made my own lines on the cheap. i used some brass connectors that thread onto the 87 sending unit and my lines use the quick disconnect of the modern cars on both the tank and the fuel rail. im less than $100 in the whole setup and i can hold all my fuel lines up with one finger.

My setup is smog legal if you have any questions let me know. passed california BAR inspection and passed smog also.

[NorCalAnthony]

Here's the link for modifying/shortening the newer fuel sending unit I was talking about: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...73373277,d.cGU

It looks pretty simple and looks like all you need is a cut off wheel and a brake line flaring tool.

Originally Posted by Mtrhd329

you should look into the nylon lines. I bought a roll of nylon line on amazon for about $20 and cut some connectors off of random cars in the junkyard and made my own lines on the cheap. i used some brass connectors that thread onto the 87 sending unit and my lines use the quick disconnect of the modern cars on both the tank and the fuel rail. im less than $100 in the whole setup and i can hold all my fuel lines up with one finger.

My setup is smog legal if you have any questions let me know. passed california BAR inspection and passed smog also.

I thought the fuel lines on the '00 donor were made of nylon? At least that's what the ones I looked at appeared to be and that's why I was going to re-use them if they were in good enough shape. Do you have any pictures or part numbers for the brass connectors that you use to connect the new nylon to the steel hardlines? I'd love to see some shots of how you have everything connected since it sounds pretty similar to what me and NastyBuzzard were wanting to do. Thanks for offering to help answer questions for a smog legal swap. I might just take you up on that once I get going lol. Do you have a build thread anywhere I can check out?

[NastyBuzzard]

Norcal thank you so much for that link!!

You guys may not like this but this is a quick and dirty/ugly way to be able to mount the 01 pump assembly into a 20 gallon carb tank.

Tools used.
Jigsaw
Flathead screwdriver
1/4" Hardware w/ extra wide washers and nylon locknuts
Harbor freight 2 part epoxy
Tubing cutter
Flaring kit

Step 1:

Cut out of the donor tank.



Step 2:

Cut the hole out as shown.



Step 3:

Clean area good and make some mounting holes.



Step 4:

Take the assembly apart and cut off about 1 3/4" - 2" off the 3 tubes. Then flare them back out to match what they originally were.



Step 5:

Mix 2 part epoxy and attach to the bottom of your plastic piece.
Place over the hole lining up with mounting holes
Get hardware through and tighten down before epoxy dries!





I know it is kind of ugly right now but I plan to clean it up better. I pressure tested with air and so far no leaks of any kind! After I clean it up and make it look better, I am going to apply some extra security for no leaks!

Hope yall don't hate it too bad. Only cost like $9 for epoxy from harbor freight. The 20 gal carb tank cost me $10. Donor tank and pump assy came with the donor!

Ill make a diagram tomorrow of how I plan to run lines. It will be a bastard combination of the stock tbi lines and the stock 01 donor lines using unions like for brake lines.

[y5mgisi]

Curious to see how it ends up working for you.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Curious to see how it ends up working for you.

You and me both!! I have seen a few other members do somewhat of a similar method and it work out but I am very skeptic.

In the end I am ordering a new 20 gal tank and the vette works kit to do a better legitimate style job.

But I will give this a shot and see how it works out. This is just the rough version. I will clean it up and get it functional when I have some more time.

[Flatpat]

If it works it doesn't matter to me if it's ugly as long as it works well, there is a bed covering it up anyhow. I hadn't seen that method yet but I may use it too.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

If it works it doesn't matter to me if it's ugly as long as it works well, there is a bed covering it up anyhow. I hadn't seen that method yet but I may use it too.

I agree, it wont ever be seen by anyone but myself. I do plan to clean it up and bevel edges and what not. However, I am totally confident that the epoxy sealed it up just fine. The harware was just a precaution and an easy way to keep pressure on the epoxy while it cured.

Like I said, I pressure tested it and couldn't find any leaks. Time will tell if it holds up and I definitely plan to test it when I get my engine ready to fire up!!

One step closer is what matters to me at this point.

[Flatpat]

I like the cut and re-flare of the tubes, seems like a better solution than the others I've seen. Kuddos to Anthony for finding that.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

I like the cut and re-flare of the tubes, seems like a better solution than the others I've seen. Kuddos to Anthony for finding that.

I agree. Although I had already planned to do that.

Ready to get my lines plumbed up!

[NorCalAnthony]

Glad the link was helpful to a couple of people I actually don't think it looks too bad especially once you go back and clean up the edges a little and maybe throw some paint or rattle can bed liner on it... Besides, like you said, nobody's going to see it but you once it's installed. Now that I've seen how yours turned out I might do the same thing on mine instead of taking it to a fab shop or radiator shop and paying them to weld the locking ring on for me. What kind of epoxy did you wind up using? I look forward to seeing how you get the fuel lines ran, what fittings you use, and how well it all works.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Glad the link was helpful to a couple of people I actually don't think it looks too bad especially once you go back and clean up the edges a little and maybe throw some paint or rattle can bed liner on it... Besides, like you said, nobody's going to see it but you once it's installed. Now that I've seen how yours turned out I might do the same thing on mine instead of taking it to a fab shop or radiator shop and paying them to weld the locking ring on for me. What kind of epoxy did you wind up using? I look forward to seeing how you get the fuel lines ran, what fittings you use, and how well it all works.

I used harbor freight brand 2 part epoxy, quick setup. It was two tubes that you mix together, was about $9. It was tough, mix it for about 1 minute and then apply. It actually got really hot and would burn the skin a little bit. It held great. We dripped some onto the work bench and had to chisel it off. I was very impressed. Now just need to see how it does with long term exposure to gas fumes and contact with gas when it sloshes around. Should be fine though.

I will definitely let everyone know how it turns out.

I will make it look better, all this was done late at night after wife and baby had gone to bed.

As far as fuel lines go I am going to keep it simple as possible. I will be using a mixture of the 2 sets of lines. I will also be routing the evap can/box.

I will try and provide good pictures, should be pretty straightforward.

One step closer!

[NastyBuzzard]

Had to work saturday all day and sunday was pretty busy.

Starting mocking things up though.



Seems I need to either cut the existing 01 nylon lines or use a heat gun to bend them in the other direction. Thoughts?

Also the tbi lines went all the way up to rear of the ls engine. So all I will have to do is cut, double flare and attach the ends of the 01 lines that attach to fuel rails using some unions.

The rear going to the pump assy looks like it may need some more thought.
TBI lines come within about 18" of the 01 pump assy on the 20 gal tank. That is where I will be tying in the 01 lines but I will have to bend them appropriately. Then comes the evap canister. Once I will get more time I will get it worked out. Hopefully!

[Hankster]

It'll get there! What are your going to wide up doing about your bed?

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Hankster

It'll get there! What are your going to wide up doing about your bed?

Still unsure about the bed... I guess I am going to keep the truck a longbed. Especially if I get the crew cab I just started a thread about.

Plans are to replace the damaged bedside, it probably isn't fixable. The longbed doesn't have any rust so I plan to slap it back on at the very end of the project.

Since I am getting a way from saddle bags, I have a friend not to far that has a lot of squarebodies and he has a ds bedside that came of a passenger side tank truck so I will probably try and get it so i don't have to cut/weld up the bedside I have to get rid of the fuel door.

Up for ideas though. Havn't really found any reasonably priced beds close by that I could completely replace it with.

[Hankster]

Nice! I would live it long-bed, and sounds like you've already got a good plan worked up!

[NastyBuzzard]

Finding it hard to find time to get anything done lately.

I used heat gun to remold/bend the nylon lines.



Got one a little too hot.



I am very confident this will work. However, since I sold the old tbi engine for $650 and my longtubes for $75, I have some extra $ in the budget. I am considering replacing the nylon lines with AN Lines and fittings. I am also considering buying a new tank with the vette works ls fuel pump adapater kit..

However, I have never bought AN lines or fittings. Anyone with ideas on what I would need? I only need about 2' or 30" of the AN lines.

Also wondering if this is going to be a problem area. Stock tbi line w/ rubber hose inline. Thoughts?

[NastyBuzzard]

Here are the push on fittings to fit the ls pump.



Here is what was in my final cart. All the stuff needed for what I am doing. These AN lines will go from the LS pump assy and connect to the tbi lines.



Other fittings and unions I will be using.



My first double flare.



Althought after that my friend broke my 5/16 flare adapter and then after that I couldn't get any more flares to work.

I got one of the broken exhaust manifold bolts out but the other one is being very difficult. Rounded off my only pair of vicegrips. Broke several drill bits as well.

I also got engine out and mated back to transmission.

[NorCalAnthony]

Thanks for posting up the pictures of everything you ordered. Can't wait to see what it looks like all hooked up

Sorry to hear about the difficult exhaust manifold bolt. Do you have a welder or access to one? I've seen a lot of guys have good success welding a nut to the top of the broken bolt (think plug weld) and then using that to turn the broken bolt. A little heat goes a long ways when you're working those out too... Good luck man and keep up the good work

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Thanks for posting up the pictures of everything you ordered. Can't wait to see what it looks like all hooked up

Sorry to hear about the difficult exhaust manifold bolt. Do you have a welder or access to one? I've seen a lot of guys have good success welding a nut to the top of the broken bolt (think plug weld) and then using that to turn the broken bolt. A little heat goes a long ways when you're working those out too... Good luck man and keep up the good work

Nope, unfortunately I don't have access to a welder anymore. We have also drilled it out and all for the extractor just cant get the extractor to turn. I wore out my only set of vicegrips. It was throwing sparks while destroying teeth.. I will have another go later.

Currently I have 3 sets of double flaring tools. Doing these double flares are taking a lot of patience!! Once I get it all done I will get some detailed pics.

I am ordering a new 20 gal carb saddle tank and the vette works ls pump assy adapter kit. As well as a set of TBSS manifolds.

However, I just got back from our beach vacation so nothing to report and I have to work all this weekend... :/ I am dying to get back at it!!

[xlcooplx]

Buzzard,

Long time surfer here but rarely post over on this site. Slick setup you've got coming along there. I'm hoping to eventually find a 80s model K10 and LS swap it myself. I have very little experience with these trucks but a ton of experience with LSx engines. Good luck on your build!

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by xlcooplx

Buzzard,

Long time surfer here but rarely post over on this site. Slick setup you've got coming along there. I'm hoping to eventually find a 80s model K10 and LS swap it myself. I have very little experience with these trucks but a ton of experience with LSx engines. Good luck on your build!

Thanks! Glad I got you to quite lurking for a bit! You can never beat a LS swap! This is prepping me for a ls swap in my 79 TA!

[NastyBuzzard]

So I ordered the TBSS manifolds from gmpartsdirect.com and now they emailed me saying one of the manifolds is on back order... May have to try fbody manifolds or make the truck ones work.. Darn.. I don't need them immediately but if they havn't shipped by the end of the month I will have to look at other options.

[NorCalAnthony]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

So I ordered the TBSS manifolds from gmpartsdirect.com and now they emailed me saying one of the manifolds is on back order... May have to try fbody manifolds or make the truck ones work.. Darn.. I don't need them immediately but if they havn't shipped by the end of the month I will have to look at other options.

You may be able to talk the parts guy at your local dealership into price matching gmpartsdirect like a few other people on here have done with other misc items. Assuming they can find a set at a sister dealership or have other suppliers than gmpartsdirect that is... If not you can also check out the classifieds on ls1tech.com there are always guys swapping out their stockers for longtubes and you can sometimes find decent deals. Good luck man hopefully this doesn't slow you down too much