1958 Apache Big Window Loooooong Bed "Lucky"

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

Holy moly! I had to do the exact same thing on my Champion radiator like a decade ago! Thought maybe mine was a fluke but apparently they are all made that way.

It definitely creates more space! So much space, in fact, that I had to trim the the piece that holds the hood latch by 1/2" for some clearance now that I have a healthy recess.

[Oldtruckwelder]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

I also got the mounts for my Champion LS Swap radiator relocated, FINALLY. By removing them and rewelding them here, it creates a mounting point for the 94-96 T-Bird Dual Speed Fan and at the same time, it sets the radiator much closer to the grille and away from the water pump pulley...

I still need to do some final fitment, bolt it on, etc but I'm pretty happy with this little modification...solved two problems at once!

Got a question?
I’m in the process of fitting a champion radiator into my 1957 with Camaro clip and original truck core support, what’s the magic number the radiator/cap can be above the core support without causing hood interference.
Thanks
JT from SC

[G&R's57GMC]

Originally Posted by Oldtruckwelder

Got a question?
I’m in the process of fitting a champion radiator into my 1957 with Camaro clip and original truck core support, what’s the magic number the radiator/cap can be above the core support without causing hood interference.
Thanks
JT from SC

From memory the '55-'57 Chevy 6 cylinder core support position was forward by 4" then the factory v8 mount location .

The radiator upper tank stuck up above the core support by at least 4" maybe 4/12". This is from memory I sold my Chevy to Dave and he has since flipped it .

Of course the '58-'59 is another story . Its front sheet metal is 4" longer leaving more room in front of the engine also the hood is a different shape .

So as 'Rosanna Danna' would say "Never Mind" .

Hi Dave

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Oldtruckwelder

Got a question?
I’m in the process of fitting a champion radiator into my 1957 with Camaro clip and original truck core support, what’s the magic number the radiator/cap can be above the core support without causing hood interference.
Thanks
JT from SC

...yeah whatever Glenn said up there. Going with that (=

[Oldtruckwelder]

Definitely getting crowded up front.
Didn’t really want the hassle of finding all the new brackets by changing to a short shaft water pump.
Can move radiator up but not 100% sure how much before it interferes with hood.
Apologies.. not meaning to highjack this thread.. just trying to get accurate info from craftsmen that already solved the problem recently.
Thanks

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Oldtruckwelder

Definitely getting crowded up front.
Didn’t really want the hassle of finding all the new brackets by changing to a short shaft water pump.
Can move radiator up but not 100% sure how much before it interferes with hood.
Apologies.. not meaning to highjack this thread.. just trying to get accurate info from craftsmen that already solved the problem recently.
Thanks

Well I think this is as simple as just sticking some cardboard on top of your radiator and seeing if/when the hood crushes the cardboard. A little trial and error and you should have your answer pretty quickly.

Personally, I think you should do what I did and relocate your radiator mounts to set the radiator further inward if there is space there. But drilling new holes to raise the rad is certainly faster, cheaper, and easier.

[dsraven]

exhaust contains causic stuff, so if you dump out straight at the axle expect to see rust behind the dump out area. a rear exit would be optimal but you gotta do what you gotta do.

[G&R's57GMC]

Hi Dave, while this section is about Radiators and yours is a '58 .

OldTruckWelder asked about rad. fitment in his '57 .

So If you don't mind I'm going to address this and what I saw and what I'm going to use in my '57 GMC .

I am using the 55-7 Chevy core support and a Camero rad and electric fan like the ones pictured below .

Now back to you Dave

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Hi Dave, while this section is about Radiators and yours is a '58 .

OldTruckWelder asked about rad. fitment in his '57 .

So If you don't mind I'm going to address this and what I saw and what I'm going to use in my '57 GMC .

I am using the 55-7 Chevy core support and a Camero rad and electric fan like the ones pictured below .

Now back to you Dave

I like how your radiator is all the way forward. Most replacement radiators, have a built in mount that pushes the actual radiator back an inch or two from the core support.

[daveshilling]

Working on replacing the bottom of the passenger door....with this crappy dynacorn patch. It's more.. reminiscient of a door bottom, but it leaves MUCH to be desired.

The hole for the hinge was WAY off, and that entire area is recessed on the factory, but not on the patch.

I left as much of the door as I could, and I had to bend the patch further where the moulding sits... it just stuck out at a 45 degree angle??

[daveshilling]

You can see how bad the hinge hole is here. After much fussing, cutting, adjusting, and cursing, I got the patch in. I also patched up the opposite corner and didn't worry about perfectly grinding the tacks... that will all be under weatherstripping.

[dsraven]

in the last pics it looks like the lower hinge mounting nuts have cracking around them. is that just the pic or are they actually cracked there?

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

in the last pics it looks like the lower hinge mounting nuts have cracking around them. is that just the pic or are they actually cracked there?

Oh one was definitely cracked. I drilled those cracks out with a larger bit to make a nice divot, and welded them shut.

[dsraven]

old truck welder, one thing you could do is install a fan system with 2 fans instead of a single.

[daveshilling]

Decided that in order to make space for the intake, I needed to lower the radiator by drilling new holes, exactly like we were talking about for Oldtruckwelder. Worked like a charm, was fast, east and free!

The radiator still sits above the frame rails and bumper, I feel good about it.

[daveshilling]

Used parts of a $50 ebay intake from 2000's truck to mock up the intake and MAF. I've seen folks put these MAF sensors directly on the throttle body (where I had mine stored) , and they're supposed to be some ways away, in a straight section, with at least 3" of straight tube behind them.

[dsraven]

Right, maf should be where air has a chance to flow straight through without turbulence. Sometimes convenience dictates otherwise. Computer weighs the air through the sensor, gets an ambient temp reading of the incoming air, compares that to engine temp and throttle position, then signals injector response accordingly. Backed up with o2 sensor readings over time.

[daveshilling]

Also completed the front clip wiring.

I added the distribution block and fuse setup that I had installed on the old front clip, finished up the wiring to the lights using the factory plugs and new connectors, and loomed up everything as best I could. This supplies fused power to the fan relays and the headlight fuse relays.

I also added a weatherproof quick disconnect from the cab to the clip... factory harnesses had this feature, but the aftermarket EZ-Wire kits leave you to sort that out on your own. this 6-prong Delphi Weatherpack connector was perfect for the job.

[daveshilling]

My passenger side Hinge pocket area was a total mess, so in order to get a door back on here, I needed to address this.

I patched the front, and cheated a bit by cutting off the lower portion that folds under the step, and just welded it at the seam and ground the welds into the corner. Saved a ton of headache!

Then I decided to make my own inner pocket patch... that took quite a bit of work and head scratching! This is NOT a convenient place to make a template OR test fit! I got it done... its not pretty but its working.

[daveshilling]

The view from inside. I could definitely make the argument to use some seam sealer in here, as I couldn't reach everywhere to weld and there are some fitment gaps I chose to live with, but better than the unwanted ventilation!

[daveshilling]

Don't forget to remove and replace your cowl dirt annually! 1000 taps with a hammer will help remove the old dirt and sand so you can replace it with fresh dirt.

[Kevin_C]

I had bought the after market hinge pocket covers. Boy that was some metal origami to fit them in place. Reminds me I still need to get under there and clean up the welds.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Kevin_C

I had bought the after market hinge pocket covers. Boy that was some metal origami to fit them in place. Reminds me I still need to get under there and clean up the welds.

Yeah if they just sold this piece only, I think I'd have gotten them. I didn't find any so this felt like my only choice besides buying a bigger section and scrapping the rest.

[dsraven]

I have done a few of those. Best to scribe above the cut somewhere, get a dimension from that mark down to the floor, also get a pattern cutaway of the contour for the outside where the weather strip seals. Write it all down or take pics etc. THEN cut the old part out. Otherwise you just do it by guess or by golly and hope for the best.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I have done a few of those. Best to scribe above the cut somewhere, get a dimension from that mark down to the floor, also get a pattern cutaway of the contour for the outside where the weather strip seals. Write it all down or take pics etc. THEN cut the old part out. Otherwise you just do it by guess or by golly and hope for the best.

If there was a part to cut out... then I wouldn't need to cut it out lol. This pocket was nearly non-existent! I think I had about half of it left to remove.