47-55.1 Long Time Coming......

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

props on the sheet metal work, that stuff is tough. what wire do you use?

Thanks, I use the .030 wire.

[gsinon]

I don't have much to show this week for progress. However, I did want to share this pic of the products that I received this week from PPG for my truck.

Any guesses on the value of whats in this picture at retail?

From left to right:

One gallon of DAS3057 dark grey sealer and its corresponding hardeners.

One gallon of F4921BK black epoxy and its hardeners. This is a thin epoxy that I will use to go over the bare metal after stripping everything. From PPG's Delfleet line, this is by far their best epoxy. Throw away any DP-LF you have and switch to this. It's way better.

Three gallons of DT895 high temp reducer.

Two gallons of D8152 glamour clear from their Global line and the related hardeners. I was part of field trials with this product when it was first released back in the mid 2000's. Only clear I have used since. Show car quality every time.

One gallon Deltron DBC basecoat of the color. Another 1.5 gallons of this not pictured.

Not pictured is two gallons of the primer surfacer I already put away. I also have a full gallon of the tan color for the interior as well as six quarts of the D8115 and D8117 matte clears from PPG for the interior.





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[57FleetsideC4]

Originally Posted by gsinon

I don't have much to show this week for progress. However, I did want to share this pic of the products that I received this week from PPG for my truck.

Any guesses on the value of whats in this picture at retail?

From left to right:

One gallon of DAS3057 dark grey sealer and its corresponding hardeners.

One gallon of F4921BK black epoxy and its hardeners. This is a thin epoxy that I will use to go over the bare metal after stripping everything. From PPG's Delfleet line, this is by far their best epoxy. Throw away any DP-LF you have and switch to this. It's way better.

Three gallons of DT895 high temp reducer.

Two gallons of D8152 glamour clear from their Global line and the related hardeners. I was part of field trials with this product when it was first released back in the mid 2000's. Only clear I have used since. Show car quality every time.

One gallon Deltron DBC basecoat of the color. Another 1.5 gallons of this not pictured.

Not pictured is two gallons of the primer surfacer I already put away. I also have a full gallon of the tan color for the interior as well as six quarts of the D8115 and D8117 matte clears from PPG for the interior.





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I would guess a easy 3500.00-4000.00 Materials are crazy price wise. Steve

[dsraven]

no clue what it's worth in Canada, but more than USD for sure.
this ties in well with another thread about removing old paint and rust. thanks for your comments there as well as the actual pics of the products here.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by 57FleetsideC4

I would guess a easy 3500.00-4000.00 Materials are crazy price wise. Steve

Originally Posted by dsraven

no clue what it's worth in Canada, but more than USD for sure.
this ties in well with another thread about removing old paint and rust. thanks for your comments there as well as the actual pics of the products here.

This definitely does tie into that other thread. At the end of the day this stuff is ridiculously expensive, and labor isn't cheap. Even if doing it yourself your time has to have a value. That's why I cringe when I see what some people are willing to do and the corners they are ok cutting. I'm not saying everyone needs to spend the mega bucks when it comes to products either. But wrong is wrong and will have short term life span if not done right.

This picture and these products right he, plus two gallons of primer surfacer and their associated hardeners came with a sticker price of just shy of $5k. And that's with a 25% discount as well. Now I am more than grateful that I didn't pay for it, thank goodness for relationships and having people respect what you do and want to support my project.

.

[vintovka]

These prices may signal the end of the hobby for all but the wealthy.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by vintovka

These prices may signal the end of the hobby for all but the wealthy.

You aren't wrong there! Honestly if I had to pay for all this stuff I'm not sure I would be choosing these exact products. I'm fortunate for sure.

These are all in the Premium category for PPG. However they, like all paint companies have what I would good, if not very good Value line products.

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by gsinon

You aren't wrong there! Honestly if I had to pay for all this stuff I'm not sure I would be choosing these exact products. I'm fortunate for sure.

These are all in the Premium category for PPG. However they, like all paint companies have what I would good, if not very good Value line products.

Not just paint products but everything needed for restoration. Already seeing both manufacturers and consumers suffering. Lots of unfinished projects popping up.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by vintovka

Not just paint products but everything needed for restoration. Already seeing both manufacturers and consumers suffering. Lots of unfinished projects popping up.

Well again, you aren't wrong. This hobby is not for the faint of heart. Honestly if I had to pay someone to do all the work I do, well I wouldn't able to afford this hobby the way I do. Labor isn't something I have to pay for thankfully.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by gsinon

Well again, you aren't wrong. This hobby is not for the faint of heart.

Nuff Said

[dsraven]

well, if your friends and sponsors are looking to support another candidate.....haha
nice when things work out.

[gsinon]

Sometimes life gets in the way and you have to take a break from the project. I'm usually pretty good about getting in some time out there each week or so. But this break took longer as I have not been in the shop since April 15th. School is now out for the summer and I will have a chance to make up for lost time.

Monday I walked into a mess and couldn't take it. Ever heard the comment, "Sometimes you have to stop and smell the roses"? Well, this to me was a car guy's version of that. "sometimes you have to stop and clean the garage"

I pulled everything that was easily mobile outside into the driveway. I swept, scrubbed and cleaned. The I washed the floor and after it was dry I moved the chassis from its spot against the wall to now in an open bay and up on stands to plumb it.

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

[youngrodder]

Definitely helps to stop and clean along the way. The mess tends to grow otherwise. Looking forward to updates.

Marc

[vintovka]

Looks good. No matter how i clean up my shop it magically returns to its former cluttered self.

[8man]

Glenn, the shop is looking good.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Definitely helps to stop and clean along the way. The mess tends to grow otherwise. Looking forward to updates.

Marc

Originally Posted by vintovka

Looks good. No matter how i clean up my shop it magically returns to its former cluttered self.

Originally Posted by 8man

Glenn, the shop is looking good.

Thanks for following along guys. With the shop clean and some other house projects done I am now able to spend some shop time on the project. This summers off thing really is nice!

I sold the old bed that I had. With the change of directions going from a patina build to goiing deep I decided it would take far too long to make the other one right for my plans. I did keep the tailgate from the original bed and decided to make a wall hanging out of it. It has a cool vive and has lots of history so I didn't want to let it go.







The guys at Apicella Design made me a good deal on a new Mar-K bed and with it I got a few things that Apicella makes for the bed. They make this cool filler piece that finishes off the inside of Mar-K tailgate and boxes/frames the Chevrolet script.

As it comes.....





And with the filler panel......





Today I decided to start on some little projects that all need to get done prior to stripping the cab and priming it with epoxy. I wanted to figure out a way to mount the Painless wiring harness. So I used some poster board and made a template. I then transferred it to some 18g metal I have. I drilled some mouting holes and welded some nuts to the back side for the fuse block.










I then took some thread couplers and stacked a pair and welded them together, I also cut a couple short. The bracket now bolts to the couplers with four 5/16's bolts.





I then found the spot to put it that was clear of everything and tack welded the couplers to the firewall.







With the bracket removed I was able to fullt weld the couplers to the firewall.





And here is what it will look like when the harness is finally installed. Up out of the way and slightly angled down for easier access to fuses when the need arises.

[gsinon]

Sometimes I go down the rabbit hole.....


I started working on the door gaps yesterday. It was during this that I started looking at the way the new rotory door latch panels fit the door and the cab. I decided I didn't want it to have that bolt on look, so I cut out the diir jamb area and made a panel to replace it. My expectation is that when all down, molded in and painted it will look as if this is how Chevrolet made the truck and not as an afterthought.

Working on gaps...



The plate we have all seen that comes with the Altmen latch kit.



Not liking that bolt on look I removed the bracket and decided there had to be a better way. So I cut this area out and prepped it for welding.





Using posterboard I made a template and then fabbed this out of some steel I had around. I then welded the panel to the jamb and ground the welds smooth.

[gsinon]

Now it was time to do the same to the door. While there is absolutely nothing wrong with having these panels as a bolt on, I wanted them to blend more. Since I have the tools and abilty this is my route. I sprayed some aerosol primer around the edges so I could know exactly where to trim the door to.




Once the area was trimmed I was able to prep it for welding as well.




And with the welds ground and smooth it looks as though GM made the door this way.

[8man]

Nice work.

I like how it looks, so how will you locate the post on the frame?

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by 8man

Nice work.

I like how it looks, so how will you locate the post on the frame?

I have the latch out of the door still. I was already able to close the door, then reach inside the door and scribe with a Sharpie where the post will need to be. I'll double/triple check it. But with that I should be able to drill the hole and be done.

I do plan on going slightly oversized on the hole so there is some adjustment on the post as well.

[dsraven]

nice work and planning.
I like the plan with the aerosol primer sprayed over to see the outline. I did that on my roof where I needed to cut a straight line across. I used a string to make the line straight between 2 points, then sprayed over the string. when removed it left an unpainted spot where the string was. like you snapped a stringline there. great line to cut along with a zip disc, a metalmax disc or whatever tool that cuts without burning the paint off

[gsinon]

I have been planning on sending all the sheetmeatl out for media blast. The local place is scheduled out about 3 weeks. So I got to thinking, I can d/a strip ot in far less time so why spend around a grand and wait. I have a Festool vacuum sander and a few boxes of 80 grit 3M Cubitron sand paper, so this moring I started.

So far things don't look too bad as I was hoping. The only thing I will need to do is a left side cowl panel replacement that I wasn't expecting. But once all the filler came off there was some nasty hiding that could be fixed, but far easier and the better repair to just replace the panel.

Some in progress pics....

[8man]

Festool's are nice. Moving forward.

[gsinon]

Originally Posted by 8man

Festool's are nice. Moving forward.

Yes they are. Helps keep the dust from overtaking the shop.

[gsinon]

And here is the worst, and I guess most unexpected part found after going to bare metal.

As I said in the last post, I have already prdered the side cowl piece. For the top of the cowl I will cut out all that ugly and fab up a new piece.






Now I have a good understanding of what this piece was doing under the dash. They must have used it as a support for the crap brazing on the top of the cowl.