72 K30 Build

[71blksuper4x4]

Looks good!

[mx289]

Great build you got going on here.

The cab looks great.
Good work.

Too bad you are so far away as,I have a 71 c30 frame laying out in the weeds !

[swamp rat]

Nice job, not even a hicup...

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

Looks good!

Thanks Trevor.

Originally Posted by mx289

Great build you got going on here.

The cab looks great.
Good work.

Too bad you are so far away as,I have a 71 c30 frame laying out in the weeds !

Thanks Tom! Yup that's kind of how the search has been going so far either it's a whole truck ($$ chaaching $$) or it's way outta state!

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Nice job, not even a hicup...

Thanks man, you expressed interest in this earlier on so we've been trying to document the heck out of it. Hope it helps you with your RV cab repair when the time comes.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Thanks man, you expressed interest in this earlier on so we've been trying to document the heck out of it. Hope it helps you with your RV cab repair when the time comes.

That you did and i can't thank you enough, the time isn't around the corner just yet but this thread has helped a great deal, i still debate over doing a flange VS a butt weld repair, i think the flange is more solid for rigidity plus gives you a little room for error in sizing, but i am a little concerned if the flanger that i end up buying will be deep enough so blending it all out with body work won't be an issue.

But first, once i get my garage organized i need to start on the rat's rocker repair..

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

That you did and i can't thank you enough, the time isn't around the corner just yet but this thread has helped a great deal, i still debate over doing a flange VS a butt weld repair, i think the flange is more solid for rigidity plus gives you a little room for error in sizing, but i am a little concerned if the flanger that i end up buying will be deep enough so blending it all out with body work won't be an issue.

But first, once i get my garage organized i need to start on the rat's rocker repair..

I'm no expert but I think both types of the repairs have there merit. A bead roller will help you to dial in your flange depth but that's difficult on complex shapes, large panels, etc. also a flange just doesn't work for all applications. Our C10 project was all butt splices and we have been able to hide all the repairs on all viewable sides. It was more difficult at times but I feel it was the right thing to do for that project. Here's a pic of all the patches we did for that one and still made a few small ones.

[7dee2]

No we are not testing the new body work strength (it passed by the way)! Starting to flip the cab like a pancake to get better welding angles…

[7dee2]

Since we decided to scrap the K3500 frame and look for a 67-72 C30 donor thought we might use the RV frame nub for some front end mockup. Hopefully this will help speed up the process once the actual frame for this project is acquired.

[swamp rat]

OMG, Save Grandmas' quilt and go buy a moving blanket at Harbor Freight....

To clarify what you just did to close in the pass thru was done only with a flanger correct? you mention a bead roller which i don't have and never used, don't even know if you can flange with a bead roller at this point LOL!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Since we decided to scrap the K3500 frame and look for a 67-72 C30 donor thought we might use the RV frame nub for some front end mockup. Hopefully this will help speed up the process once the actual frame for this project is acquired.

I can't see for sure, but I presume those are hangars from the K3500?? In which case, did you keep the secondary brace portion on the hangars?

Either way, I found I had to flip the hangars side to side (Left one on the Right) to get them in the right place for the core support and the wheels to be centered under the front clip

[tll74]

Subscribed...

[DLTruck1973]

Me too!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

OMG, Save Grandmas' quilt and go buy a moving blanket at Harbor Freight....

To clarify what you just did to close in the pass thru was done only with a flanger correct? you mention a bead roller which i don't have and never used, don't even know if you can flange with a bead roller at this point LOL!

You don't miss a thing! Around here all the used t-shirts/bedding/bath towels go out to the garage to die.

Yes just used a HF pneumatic flanging tool (turn down air pressure or the tool doesn't live). Here is a link that will help explain the bead roller technique a little. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRZb9Zm36sQ

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

I can't see for sure, but I presume those are hangars from the K3500?? In which case, did you keep the secondary brace portion on the hangars?

Either way, I found I had to flip the hangars side to side (Left one on the Right) to get them in the right place for the core support and the wheels to be centered under the front clip

I was given a set of front hangers and motor cross member from a 73 only (according to some GM parts book research) and those are what are pictured. Yes, the secondary braces are there and this stuff is a little different and not as heavy duty as the K3500 stuff.

Discovered what you are saying when we mocked up the 72 sheet metal on the 84 frame. To get the core support back far enough with the long springs we would have needed to do that swap even on the newer frame to make everything workout.

Originally Posted by tll74

Subscribed...

Originally Posted by DLTruck1973

Me too!

It was really great meeting you guys and we made it back safe and sound! Thanks Tom & Thomas!

[coops714x4]

Brett, since your looking for a frame have you considered using a K/20 frame ? that's what I'm going to do on my K/30 build. I have looked at both my C/30 wrecker and my K/20 and they seem to be the same (size and thickness) Coop

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by coops714x4

Brett, since your looking for a frame have you considered using a K/20 frame ? that's what I'm going to do on my K/30 build. I have looked at both my C/30 wrecker and my K/20 and they seem to be the same (size and thickness) Coop

Coop I've considered that many times already. Especially when I backed myself into this corner with the K30, a project with no frame (sounds like an old movie)! Researched this some more into the 67-72 frame differences. Here is a fairly new thread that is very informative thanks to First c10, SS Tim & lukecp (forum FAQ material).

Whole thread here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=659340

Specifics & some engineering info here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...75&postcount=9

Great read and an eye opener for the frame differences I think.

[coops714x4]

WOW!!! information overload, looks like the K/20 frame is still your best bet, but I'm more confused. I've measured my C/30 and my K/20 and all I can find is the 30 is longer, I'm sure there is some difference in rear spring mounts and such.
I'm going to take my K/20 down to the frame, use the 20 suspension and put the dana 60 dually front and dana 70 hd wide under it and go from there, yes I know i'll have to redo the spring perches on axles but that's not a problem and bingo a K/30 pickup.
Now, I don't know about there but around here 67-72 1 tons are like hens teeth, so what I'm saying is a K/20 frame and suspension would be easier to find. yes if your gonna do some serious work with it I would want the stronger 1 ton frame but for me I'll never work it harder than I have my K/20

[tll74]

Brett, likewise meeting you too. Good luck on your builds! Thanks, Tom

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by coops714x4

WOW!!! information overload, looks like the K/20 frame is still your best bet, but I'm more confused. I've measured my C/30 and my K/20 and all I can find is the 30 is longer, I'm sure there is some difference in rear spring mounts and such.
I'm going to take my K/20 down to the frame, use the 20 suspension and put the dana 60 dually front and dana 70 hd wide under it and go from there, yes I know i'll have to redo the spring perches on axles but that's not a problem and bingo a K/30 pickup.
Now, I don't know about there but around here 67-72 1 tons are like hens teeth, so what I'm saying is a K/20 frame and suspension would be easier to find. yes if your gonna do some serious work with it I would want the stronger 1 ton frame but for me I'll never work it harder than I have my K/20

I agree I read that frame differences thread and WOW! It does answer the questions and much more. Coop I think your build plan sounds great and if I had a K/20 I'm sure we'd use it and things would probably be fine.

But since we don't and a little history with us is that we have a history of over working our trucks, I guess. Bent a new Dodge Dakota in half that had less than 10K miles on the odometer towing too large of a trailer with it. Broke both rear springs in a new Dodge Durango R/T, oops! Broke both frame rails on my 68 GMC 1/2 ton "Little Gorilla" all this damage just towing cars to car shows last ones were even with my smaller open car trailer. This doesn't even count any actual heavy lifting the family might want or need to do.

Truck is going to be used as a trailer towing 4x4/work type truck with mild off road use. Not too tall (old guy w/flatbed) heavy duty factory look is important. And with our history a 1 ton frame is a must.

[7dee2]

Oh forgot to mention that after wadding up the Dakota we went for a F250 Super Duty diesel "Who's Your Daddy" and ended up frying the trans twice and mucked up the chipped computer but man that was a towing machine when it worked. Got PO'd after the second trans and the computer, told the Ford dealer it sucked and I was going to get rid of it and buy an old Chevy!

We did buy a 86 K30 Silverado BB SRW and got it all fixed up but my oldest boy had to have it.

[71blksuper4x4]

So are you trying to find a longhorn frame or c30 157" wb frame?

[coops714x4]

Ok Brett I guess after all that a 1 ton IS in order, jeezz I hope you never ask to borrow my truck, LOL I hear ya , I've worked the crap out of my wrecker, can't count the number of times I've had the front wheels in the air. do you have any leads on a 1 ton ? Coop

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

So are you trying to find a longhorn frame or c30 157" wb frame?

Longhorn or a C30 CC 133" wb, we need to keep the overall length of the finished truck under 18'.

Originally Posted by coops714x4

Ok Brett I guess after all that a 1 ton IS in order, jeezz I hope you never ask to borrow my truck, LOL I hear ya , I've worked the crap out of my wrecker, can't count the number of times I've had the front wheels in the air. do you have any leads on a 1 ton ? Coop

Coop, I do have some good news to share on the project with no frame build!



After plenty of head scratching I keep coming back to something JJorgensen52 said in his similar 72 GMC build.

Quote:
"I think, after going through this, that it's not terribly difficult if you have a little bit of fab skill, but the front swap would be vastly easier using a '67-'72 K20 donor, as the frame components are the same in the front between 20 and 30 series trucks. That would solve all of the fitment problems I've had and make this a pretty straight forward swap." http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=54

Really liking the vastly easier and straight forward parts of this statement!

[7dee2]

So Big Kudos to D & L Truck Parts out of Junction City, OR forum vendor “DLTruck1973” Tom & Thomas they have fixed us up big time!

First we ordered 71/72 K20 front spring hangers, shackles, front bump stops & outer bumper brackets, both engine & trans/transfer case cross members (next best thing to a K20 donor). These parts arrived very quickly and are practically like new, hot tanked and packaged with care it was like Christmas opening the box. My thoughts were we can use these parts and do mockup on my C30 frame nub while the frame search continued. But in some of my correspondence with Thomas I asked about a C30/Longhorn frame. These guys have everything I swear and go the extra mile! Once they were sure we were serious and could arrange shipping they brought in a Longhorn and processed it so we could get the frame we needed!

WOW! ROAD TRIP, YES!!



What a great facility they have there, it was like 67-72 heaven, we got to fill our short list plus some other goodies I couldn’t resist and have been looking for for years. I just can’t thank these guys enough it really gave this project a shot in the arm so very impressed with them!

Second picture is somewhere in Idaho on the way home.

[DLTruck1973]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

So Big Kudos to D & L Truck Parts out of Junction City, OR forum vendor “DLTruck1973” Tom & Thomas they have fixed us up big time!

First we ordered 71/72 K20 front spring hangers, shackles, front bump stops & outer bumper brackets, both engine & trans/transfer case cross members (next best thing to a K20 donor). These parts arrived very quickly and are practically like new, hot tanked and packaged with care it was like Christmas opening the box. My thoughts were we can use these parts and do mockup on my C30 frame nub while the frame search continued. But in some of my correspondence with Thomas I asked about a C30/Longhorn frame. These guys have everything I swear and go the extra mile! Once they were sure we were serious and could arrange shipping they brought in a Longhorn and processed it so we could get the frame we needed!

WOW! ROAD TRIP, YES!!



What a great facility they have there, it was like 67-72 heaven, we got to fill our short list plus some other goodies I couldn’t resist and have been looking for for years. I just can’t thank these guys enough it really gave this project a shot in the arm so very impressed with them!

Second picture is somewhere in Idaho on the way home.

Hi Brett,

It was a pleasure to meet you.Tom and I are glad that you could come here and check out a small portion of the inventory

It is always nice to be able to help out everyone with needed parts. Looking forward to seeing your progress on the project as well.

Thank you again for everything,
Thomas

[coops714x4]

HOORAY, now the fun begins, Brett in this part of your build I would really appreciate some real good measurements and info in changing the C/30 frame to K/30, like I told you I have a chassis and considering doing the same thing, it would really be helpful. good luck, Coop< got my glasses on and notepad handy pencil in hand.