'50 chevy 3100

[Matt_50]

Move it with sticks? It got really tough to pull the rope through and in the center the center gasket was twisting outward, the glass was forcing itself over. That could have moved?

Real bummer I broke the glass, the install videos looked way to easy lol

I'll post a pic of column mount once done to get your opinion, I kept it shallow but I get what you mean.

[joedoh]

yes, there has to be a little wiggle room in the gasket to get it installed, so you have to be sure the pinch of metal around the opening is seated all the way into the slit of the rubber. I usually put a little soap on the pinch and into the gap to make it easier to slide the rubber over the lip. so if you think about it, as you are trying to get the lip over on the outside edge closest to the side of the truck, the middle will be shifted over the opposite direction the amount of the pinch. some gaskets are softer rubber and move less. some harder and move more. the current gasket I used was all out of shape and needed me to go completely around the glass with a plastic stick to get the seal seated on the pinch and the glass in the right spot. you would be surprised mow much it needs to move out sometimes.

I didnt use anything fancy, I cut a piece from an old mower and sanded the edge to glide in the gap.

[Matt_50]

Oh I see, I need to seat the rubber all the way as I go. How do I get the glass to move? Lots of soap and get the plastic behind the glass?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Oh I see, I need to seat the rubber all the way as I go. How do I get the glass to move? Lots of soap and get the plastic behind the glass?

once you have the rubber seated all the way around, the glass will have a little room to move. you use the plastic tool (I used a blunt screwdriver ) to wiggle and cajole it into the right spot.

[Matt_50]

Got a little done this morning. Got my lower steering column clamp where I wanted it. Turns our I need a new couple drill bits next time I'm at the store and I think I'll buy a bunch of nuts and bolts too, spent a lot of time just trying to scrounge some up.

I bled the brakes on my buddy's 66 mustang. Every new connection needed just a bit more tightening. Very very little room to get to them, real pain to only tighten a hair at a time. One of his shocks was shot so he decided he would get some before driving it home.

He then finished welding my gas tank cradle, it only had tacks. Now I need to drill hold down bolt holes and get those bolts too.

I thought I had or could very easily and cheaply find 5 lug rims with tires that was 5x4.75. My new disc brake pattern. No luck. I got one rim but it would be 15 bucks to swap a tire on and I still need another. Got on eBay and bought a couple of cheap adapters. For 37 bucks! I will not drive it with them. I will be ordering new rims and tires, but for now I can roll it. I wish I had a shop lol

[Matt_50]

I finally drilled and bolted the p/s box on. I've compared three companies' instructions and I can turn the wheels left and right no problem so I'll go with it for now. I had to tweak the measurements maybe a 1/4 of an inch and had to make a new bracket. I already had the pump and box from the donor so I'm not out much if I change my mind later.

Wheel adapters came in! Quick test fit and I'll be able to put it back on the ground and roll it if necessary. It will definitely work until I buy those new wheels I want.

[Matt_50]

Mounted the calipers and put the wheels back on. It's nice to get it on the ground again.

[Matt_50]

Haven't been doing my updates.

Brakes have been my recent bit of fun. I got the proportioning valve hooked up but I did both lines 1/4 and I think I need to go back and do one 3/16s. I was looking at my donors original lines and then closely at the old prop valve and one of the ports is smaller.

Using 3/16 from valve to front brakes. Got both bent and driver side flared and installed!! Tomorrow I hope to get passenger side in place and run the rear line back.

I've also been calling around and getting quotes for a slab and a building. As long as things go well I hope to get a slab down in a month or so.

[mongocanfly]

Matt...looks good....
on mine I did 1/4" from prop valve to rear ..then stepped down to 3/16" from the T to each rear wheel...on the front its 3/16" from prop valve to the T and 3/16" to each front wheel...
don't forget the centering tool for the prop valve when you get ready to start bleeding brakes

[Matt_50]

Thanks mongo. Why'd you step down to 3/16 in the rear? Rear disc?

I was going to T the front but decided why have left over brake line when I won't use it for who knows how long lol

What do you mean by centering tool?

[mongocanfly]

that's the way it was on the rear axle I used..i just ran all new brake lines..the factory rubber brake line at the rear is 1/4" input where it attaches to the frame,,and each output side of the T block is 3/16".....its drum brakes

[mongocanfly]

the centering tool is what youll need to keep the prop valve centered while you bleed the brakes..without it the prop valve will trip to one side or the other...im pretty sure the one you have in your pic will trip..not all of them do...you remove the switch in the center and screw the tool in the hole until you get done bleeding...

[Matt_50]

Got passenger front line on. Had a tight turn right at the end. It's not creased but thought I'd ask what y'all thought.

[mongocanfly]

ive seen worse that still worked fine...have you tried blowing thru it?

[Matt_50]

Oh yea no problem there. Blew out any shavings from filing.

[joedoh]

looks ok, but as long as you are practicing, maybe flare another line?

[Matt_50]

Ouch😲 and I was all proud of myself....

[joedoh]

it will be fine if you leave it, I was just suggesting since you found a new skill just look at it as another opportunity.

[mongocanfly]

and if you don't have one get yourself a tubing bender...

[Matt_50]

I know, just giving ya a hard time. The flaring part was easy. The bends take a little practice.

What do you suggest for fuel lines? Mechanical pump on 350 motor. 66 mustang tank. So I need a fuel and return line... same double flare to slip small sections of fuel hose over at the ends?

[Matt_50]

I think my bender is part of the problem. Very bulky.

[dsraven]

one reason I don't usually use the softer line is because I think it tends to kink easier. I am old school though.
if you have a crappy bender you will usually get crappy bends. sometimes it's worth the extra bucks for a good quality tool or at least a better one than you have
if you are having some trouble getting the short line bent to match exactly just do an extra complete circle,like a loop, because that will make the connection easier to get right. make sure the top of the loop is the end that connects to the master cyl so any air will automatically self bleed,no crossing the line or making the loop vertical. keep the loops horizontal
what you have there looks clean anyway. thenice thing about doing it yourself is that it is waaay cheaper than having a shop do it. you can afford to do it a few times until you like it.

[mongocanfly]

matt...what flaring tool do you have?....I have the eastwood flare tool..
I just made a 3/8" line for my hydroboost and needed to add a bulb to keep the hose from blowing off...so I used the eastwood to do it...mine is a 2 step procees to do the brake flares..so on the hydro fittings I used step 1 and only pushed the end of the tube until it created a bulb...worked perfect...ill get a pic of it tomorrow...
they make some small cheap benders that do a decent job but they don't compare to my rigid tube benders..

[joedoh]

i bent lines over spray cans before I got a bender, its a little bigger than the minimum bend radius for 3/16 but worked well.

[mongocanfly]

yep...I use paint cans to make those flex coils (moonshine still) under the master cylinder...works great for that..