Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[srziemkowski]

What did you do with the inner tube that is inside the column that the shifter housing slides onto?did you cut this as well? And did you pull it out from the main tube?if so how did you get the lower released with the spring?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by srziemkowski

What did you do with the inner tube that is inside the column that the shifter housing slides onto?did you cut this as well? And did you pull it out from the main tube?if so how did you get the lower released with the spring?

It's a column from a floor shift truck, so there's only the outer tube and the inner shaft. I'm guessing that you're using an auto or three speed column with the shifter tube in it? Wish I could help you more with your column! I've got an extra three speed column that I can tear down to see how it goes together, and what it would take to shorten it.

[theastronaut]

Here's how I shortened the steering shaft. It was also stripped to bare metal, but I didn't have any hose clamps small enough to fit around the shaft tightly. I used a framing square and masking tape to get the tape on exactly 90* to the shaft, so the tape edge would make for a straight cut line.




3" cut out and the edges beveled. I cranked the welder up and burned the welds in pretty good, don't want this thing coming apart!




Welds ground down and smoothed out.

[MalibuKasey]

Fantastic work!! Your a pretty brilliant fella!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

Fantastic work!! Your a pretty brilliant fella!

Thanks Malibu! Not sure if I'm all that brilliant though, the really smart ones buy a truck already finished!

[MalibuKasey]

Ya but the ones you buy NEVER have your level of detail for under 200K

[65Pickup]

WOW, did you just take a pic further up the rod. I'm amazed how you and Frizzle etc make your welds disappear. Brilliant!! I always have flat spots, or dips what is your secret to the roundness, looks like it was in a lathe?

Also was this a '69 or '72 column, and this is why the shortening? I have one and noticed they are too long, if this is the fix I better pay attention. Thanks for the great instruction.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

Ya but the ones you buy NEVER have your level of detail for under 200K

Shoot, I'd take $200k for it when finished!! I think you got a little fat-fingered with the keyboard there!

Originally Posted by 65Pickup

WOW, did you just take a pic further up the rod. I'm amazed how you and Frizzle etc make your welds disappear. Brilliant!! I always have flat spots, or dips what is your secret to the roundness, looks like it was in a lathe?

Also was this a '69 or '72 column, and this is why the shortening? I have one and noticed they are too long, if this is the fix I better pay attention. Thanks for the great instruction.

Thanks 65pickup! I used 36 grit on a 2" right angle pnumatic grinder to knock the top of the welds down nearly flush with the tube and shaft. Then I switched to 50 grit to finish off the weld and blend it out. Then sand it with 80 grit on a 6" DA sander to remove the grinding marks. The key is to just knock the top off the weld and not dig into the base metal around the weld.

It's a floor shift column (smooth bell, no shift rods) from a four speed floor shift 64-65-66 truck. I drove the blue '65 this past weekend and my arms are still cramped from wheel being so close to the seat!

[65Pickup]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Thanks 65pickup! I used 36 grit on a 2" right angle pnumatic grinder to knock the top of the welds down nearly flush with the tube and shaft. Then I switched to 50 grit to finish off the weld and blend it out. Then sand it with 80 grit on a 6" DA sander to remove the grinding marks. The key is to just knock the top off the weld and not dig into the base metal around the weld.

It's a floor shift column (smooth bell, no shift rods) from a four speed floor shift 64-65-66 truck. I drove the blue '65 this past weekend and my arms are still cramped from wheel being so close to the seat!

Thanks for the tips, I see what your doing now, just getting the wheel closer to the dash. I picked up a '69 floor shift column, nice clean shape but 2" to 3" longer than a '65. For a later time. Thanks again.

[MalibuKasey]

[QUOTE=theastronaut;5282184]Shoot, I'd take $200k for it when finished!! I think you got a little fat-fingered with the keyboard there!

What!?!?!?! You do good work brother!!

[theastronaut]

Ive been wanting a smaller diameter steering wheel since I'll have power steering but I couldn't find a 15" rim with similar grips to swap over. Do instead of swapping rims I section the original wheel from 16 3/8" down to 15". I've still got to grind the plastic back from the inner steel frame so I can weld it all together, then build up the joints with epoxy.



The original '66 deluxe wheel.




After cutting.




Marking the spokes for the cut. I've got a plan in mind that I think will make remaking the tapered end of the dimpled indention pretty simple when it's time to start epoxying and reshaping the wheel.




Spokes shortened, super glued in place temporarily for mock up purposes.




First mock up (after also shorting the two pieces of the rim). To get the hub centered, the edges of the rim and spokes on one side didn't meet up. I shortened one edge and will have to lengthen the other.




After getting everything roughly in the right position and the center hub centered in the rim, using one of the cut pieces to fill in the gap.






Roughed in and ready to start grinding back the plastic to weld the rim in place. It measures 15 inches now. I'll grind the edges back and glass bead the old paint and grime off, then use the steering shaft with a level and make sure the hub is level and centered, and 90* to the rim before welding the rim back together. I'll post pics once I get all that done.


Posted via Mobile Device

[MARTYZ]

Great purchace and some nice work . You have got me tuned in from Canada. Not to many in this part of the world in that nice of condition to start with. Great work keep us posted

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by MARTYZ

Great purchace and some nice work . You have got me tuned in from Canada. Not to many in this part of the world in that nice of condition to start with. Great work keep us posted

Thanks MARTYZ!! It took me awhile to find one this solid; they're all eat up with rust down here too!



A little more work on the wheel. It's ready to epoxy and start shaping the bare areas.

[Frizzle Fry]

Awesome
Posted via Mobile Device

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Awesome
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks Frizzle! Always enjoy browsing though your threads!


Started working the epoxy. It's gunna take a couple coats on some of the rim areas.

[duallyjams]

With your attention to detail it will be perfect.

[allaboutchevelles]

Nice looking job on the steering wheel. My wheel is just like yours and has some cracks. What name brand epoxy are your using and is it the kind you squeeze from the tube and mix the 2 parts together?? I have to repair my cracks so I can repaint mine. Thanks

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by duallyjams

With your attention to detail it will be perfect.

It's going to be acceptable, I'm happy with the way its turning out so far, but it won't be perfect by any means. Swapping rims would have been a much better approach. The rim still isn't 100% round and I'm not sure if I can shape it much more at this point. It's close enough to still be useable and I mainly wanted to see if I could actually do it, so it's been worth the effort just to satisfy my curiosity.

Originally Posted by allaboutchevelles

Nice looking job on the steering wheel. My wheel is just like yours and has some cracks. What name brand epoxy are your using and is it the kind you squeeze from the tube and mix the 2 parts together?? I have to repair my cracks so I can repaint mine. Thanks

Thanks, the epoxy is PC-7. I think Eastwood sells it, and you may be able to find it locally though; I bought mine from our Ace hardware store. It works great for filling in the smaller gaps you'll have after grinding out the cracks but it's a little on the thin side for larger gaps. Wetting a rag or your fingertip with solvent will really help smooth it out and minimize the amount of sanding you'll have to do.
Posted via Mobile Device

[theastronaut]

Got a little more work done on the wheel, started sanding the repaired areas. Also tried out remaking the pointed tip of the recessed textured area, and that looks like it's going to work out well. I pulled our lawnmower into work today, so since I had the trailer I went ahead and picked up the rest of the steel tubing for the frame bracing. I guess I'll be on the hunt for another T56; the guy I was going to get one from has already sold his, that's what I get for waiting too long.

[likaroc13]

wow, that's turning out really nice! i love seeing the work of you guys with such attention to detail

[duallyjams]

Nope you were simply not ment to have that T56 so there must be a better one waiting.

The wheel looks good.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by likaroc13

wow, that's turning out really nice! i love seeing the work of you guys with such attention to detail

Originally Posted by duallyjams

Nope you were simply not ment to have that T56 so there must be a better one waiting.

The wheel looks good.

Thanks dudes!



I've got one side nearly finished.

[Alan's Classic]

Very cool idea. It looks good.

[65Pickup]

Nice work Spaceman, that wheel looks great. I'll have to look for that epoxy.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Very cool idea. It looks good.

Thanks Alan, you're making me jealous with all the progress you're making and being that close to completion. I keep heaping more and more on the "to do" list so it's great to see other guys getting to the final build stages. Builds like yours help me push on!

Originally Posted by 65Pickup

Nice work Spaceman, that wheel looks great. I'll have to look for that epoxy.

Thanks, it's great for fixing wheels. It can be smoothed down pretty slick if you wet the tip of your finger with thinner and work the epoxy to shape; makes for much less sanding after it dries!



Got a little more done on the wheel last night. I re-did the tip of the indentions so that the indentions would be the same length on both sides. Guess I should have checked that already. Once the epoxy finishes hardening it'll be almost ready for sanding and primer. I say almost because I had an idea that I want to incorporate into the wheel. More on that below.






I also checked the fit of the horn ring, and it looks great on the smaller wheel. I was worried that the proportions would be off, but it looks fine.





After running this by MalibuKasey (co-conspirator/Goldilocks' official project consultant) and recieving the green light of approval, I'll be adding two chrome rings to the top of the rim from a mid 60's Nova wheel. They'll be spaced one inch apart, and the rim will be painted dark fawn to match the dash color inbetween the chrome rings. The rest of the wheel will be fawn like stock. I wanted a stripe at the top of the wheel like race/drift/rally cars have as a reference, which supposedly is helpful when you're sideways. Of course, I'll need to test out that theory once she's back on the road...

I thought about adding just a dark fawn stripe, but I remembered that Impala's had chrome rings that were used to separate the two tone rim colors. Impala's had a different grip profile though, and those rings wouldn't work. MalibuKasey had a Nova wheel and confirmed that the rim profile was the same as on truck wheels, so I'll be using Nova rings to add to my wheel. This will keep with the OEM/factory styling trend, and also give nod to the suspension mods, and the type of driving I'll be doing.